Shanghai Staycation: Jile Tang Hot Spring in Chuansha and the Old Street

📍 Shanghai · 👁 2 reads · ❤️ 128 likes

During the pandemic winter break, we were required not to leave Shanghai. No worries—there's plenty of fun to be had right in the city!

In these special times, a little foresight goes a long way. Back in early December, we booked a stay at Jile Tang in Chuansha. Soaking in hot springs is a winter must for us every year. The Jile Tang in Chuansha is a hot spring hotel where you can stay overnight, unlike the one on Jinshajiang Road which only has hourly rooms. We booked two deluxe rooms and arrived before lunch. If you drive, you can park right in the courtyard for free.

Check-in time is 2 p.m. and you can't check in until then, but you can go straight to the baths. Once inside Jile Tang, you don't wear shoes—they provide yukata robes and other toiletries, so we traveled light with just our small bags. For first-timers, here's how it works:

1. At the entrance, get an electronic wristband that you'll return when you leave. Inside, this wristband is super useful—it's not only your locker key but also records any purchases.

2. After taking off your shoes, find the shoe locker matching your wristband number, store your shoes, then walk in barefoot.

3. Use your wristband to open the gate. Inside, you'll see the front desk. If you don't need to check in yet, head to the yukata counter nearby to pick a robe.

4. Pass by a few shops (one rents kimono for photos at a pretty good price; there's a goldfish scooping game where you get a fish even if you catch none; a sand play area; a nail salon), then turn left to enter the bathing area! Turn right for the relaxation lounge.

5. Because it's a communal bath, you bathe naked, so there are separate men's and women's baths. Once inside, find your locker by number, put all your belongings in, lock it, and strip down for a soak.

6. Jile Tang's baths at Chuansha have both indoor and outdoor pools. The indoor ones include jacuzzi-style massage pools, but we spent more time outdoors because it felt less stuffy and more pleasant. The best were the individual soaking tubs—like bathtubs you can lie in. At first I thought, why come here to sit in a bathtub when I have one at home? But the water stays perfectly warm and full, and I just didn't want to get out! The indoor massage pools were also nice, though I felt a bit achy the next day—in a good way.

7. You can also get aromatherapy massages, but lying there stark naked made me feel like a fish waiting to be gutted...

8. After bathing, there's a game area with arcade machines. You can also rest on the first floor in the tatami lounge or try the very hot stone sauna—lie on the heated stones or slabs and you'll be drenched in sweat in no time. The lounge TV loops "Spirited Away." Upstairs on the second floor, there's a restaurant where prices are acceptable and food is decent. There's also a climbing area for little kids. On the other side of the restaurant is a small library/lounge, but the book selection (mostly comics) is limited and in Chinese—nothing like the one at Jinshajiang Road. You can also relax on the sofas and watch TV; some movies are pay-per-view, others free. Pool and other activities cost extra. On Sunday afternoons, they have comedy shows; you can buy a ticket that includes bath admission, which is a great deal. Too bad Chuansha is a bit far.

9. Our deluxe room was on this floor, just past the dining area. The room was spacious, with a TV that even lets you watch Bilibili anime. The deluxe room has its own bathroom and shower, but no toothbrush, toothpaste, or comb—you can get those from the bathing area.

Our 24 hours at Jile Tang were all about eating, drinking, lounging, and soaking whenever we felt like it. How can life be this blissful?! Right after our soak, my mother-in-law was already trying to organize a trip to the Jile Tang in Jiading for Chinese New Year, but sadly we couldn't make it work. And after the holiday, the kid's school starts—no more gallivanting around!

From Jile Tang, it's a 15-minute drive to Chuansha Old Street. Navigate to the Chuansha Ancient Town parking lot, which is quite large.

Chuansha Ancient City Wall Park

Just diagonally across from the lot (you need to cross a bridge) is Chuansha Ancient City Wall Park. In this tiny park, it's hard to tell which parts are the original ancient wall and which have been restored. It's fascinating to see old trees growing right out of the wall. From the wall, you can see neighboring Guanlan Primary School, a prestigious institution with over 170 years of history.

Neishidi (Huang Yanpei's Former Residence)

Leaving the City Wall Park, cross the road and a short walk takes you to Neishidi, the former home of Huang Yanpei. No entrance fee, but you need to make a reservation—just scan the QR code at the gate. Once inside, I realized that Neishidi was home to a whole host of famous figures. Originally it was the Shen family mansion from the Daoguang era of the Qing Dynasty. Later, Huang Yanpei was born here. The Huang family produced many distinguished individuals. The Soong siblings—because their parents lived here for ten years—were also born in this house. This reconstructed Neishidi is a charming two-story brick-and-wood building. Inside, it displays the life stories of these notable people through texts, photos, and some artifacts. For kids, it might be a bit dry, but for adults with a bit of life experience, it's truly fascinating. The upbringing of great figures always offers inspiration.

Maybe due to the pandemic, even on a weekend, Chuansha Old Street was eerily quiet. And I didn't see the usual tourist trinkets common in other ancient towns.

Right next to Neishidi is Chuansha Old Street. A few steps in, we spotted a tiny shop called "Jubuju" with a little blackboard reading "Our Secret Recipe Rice Cake Recommended." As a glutinous-rice lover, I was helpless—I rushed in and bought one. The rice cake was fried to order, slathered in sauce, sweet and soft with a nice chew. I regretted not buying more because it wasn't enough for my kid and me. My little one couldn't stop thinking about it—so on our way back, we stopped and bought another. Thankfully, near my home there's a "Xiamantang" restaurant whose takeout window sells crispy rice cakes that are just as memorable. So when I crave one, there's a fix close by. The shop may be small, but it's lovingly decorated—perfect for a drink and some skewers.

Then we came across "Laowei Tea House." A sign outside said "Local Specialties" and "Popular Foodie Picks." Well, we had to stop! Their best-selling fragrant sticky rice cake with meat was completely reserved, but after much pleading, they spared one for me. It was a little crispy, a little chewy, and filled with a big, savory chunk of fresh meat—absolutely delicious! Highly recommended! The place is quite spacious, but we passed by outside of meal hours, so there were no diners—only a cluster of people at the entrance buying the meat cakes. They have a pot there to reheat them on the spot.

State-run Gongnong Hotel

We were headed to the State-run Gongnong Hotel for a meal. The exterior walls are bursting with historical charm, but the interior is surprisingly modern. Since it wasn't a mealtime, the restaurant was empty except for the staff having their own lunch. We were four adults and one child, and we ordered just three dishes, but the portions were huge—enough for all of us. Though each dish was a touch pricey, ordering only a few kept the per-person cost very reasonable. The food was home-style fare, nothing fancy. We got Sanhuang chicken and sizzling eel strips—my husband especially loves that eel dish. We make it at home too, but we'd never use as much oil, so the flavor isn't quite the same. Then he ordered braised fish belly, and I had never even heard of that dish. What's "du dang"? Turns out it's the fish belly.

It came to 36 yuan per person. Full and satisfied, we headed home.

Travelogue Directory

1. Jile Tang 2. Chuansha Old Street