【Shanghai ~ Mount Putuo】 Princess or Pilgrim?
【Before the Trip】
The legendary Shanghai – from Peace Hotel to ‘The Bund’ – I’ve been dreaming about the city’s glamour since I was little, watching all those movies. As I grew older, I came to prefer quaint old towns instead. But ever since Shanghai Disneyland opened, I’ve been itching to go there every year to be a princess on the run for a day. This year, I finally made it happen!
Haerbin – Shanghai, 31 March 2021, CZ6437, 20:00 – 23:05
Shanghai – Ningbo (Shanghai People’s Square – Zhoushan Zhujiajian Wugongzhi Wharf) by bus, 4 April 2021, 07:30 – 11:30
Ningbo – Haerbin, 5 April 2021, MU5650, 18:15 – 21:25
Clouds & Night Inn (Shanghai Pudong Airport Branch): No. 128, Qiuting Road
Plus: Great location, not far from Disney and the airport, free shuttle service
Shanghai Fushen Hotel: No. 8 Beihai Road
Plus: Excellent location, but no elevator, rooms a bit small; overall decent value for money
Putuo Mountain Wenhai Inn: No. 69, Building 30, Longwan Village
Homestays are the norm on Putuo Mountain. This one has a door that opens right into the dining hall, so it’s noisy with people coming and going, but the location is great.
Total trip cost: about 4,000 yuan
【Itinerary】
Day 1 [1 April] Shanghai Disneyland
Day 2 [2 April] City God Temple – Yuyuan Garden – The Bund night view
Day 3 [3 April] Shanghai Museum – Sinan Road – Sun Yat-sen’s Former Residence – Sinan Books
Day 4 [4 April] Zhoushan Putuo Mountain
Day 5 [5 April] Zhoushan Putuo Mountain
Day 1 [1 April] Shanghai Disneyland
This trip started off like a real-life ‘Lost on Journey’. My original flight at 8pm the day before was delayed until 1am due to bad weather in Shanghai. Around 9pm they bussed us to Taiping Lake Hotspring Town Hotel and I felt despair, thinking we’d never fly out tonight. I cancelled that night’s Shanghai hotel. Then at 11pm the airport told us to pack up and head downstairs – we could finally board.
The plane took off after 1am, and I barely slept half a night – it was miserable. There was a meal service, and I dizzily spilled coffee all over myself. We landed close to 4am, and then had to ride something like a subway train just to get our luggage and reach the arrivals hall. Seriously, how huge is Pudong Airport?
After much hesitation, I decided to go to Disneyland that day – I wasn’t going to waste the Early Entry Pass I’d bought. I contacted the hotel for pickup; we got there almost 5am. The hotel was very considerate and only charged 260 yuan (originally 510 yuan) after we explained the situation – basically half price. Even though I could only sleep for about an hour, I lay down and passed out immediately. What a crazy night.
Got up at 6:10, quickly packed some hotel breakfast to go. The hotel offers Disney shuttle, leaving at 6:40. The weather wasn’t great – heavily overcast with thick fog. We reached the Disney parking lot at 7:10 and had to walk quite a long way to the gate. There was already a queue but it moved fast. We were inside by 7:20, entrance procedures quick, no bag check.
Lucky us – April marks Disneyland’s 5th birthday, so birthday-themed decorations were everywhere.
We bought early-bird tickets 20 days in advance, which had a 68-yuan discount. The original 339-yuan ticket came out to only 271 yuan – a real bargain. To get in early, we also bought the Early Entry Pass online for 149 yuan each, allowing entry one hour before official opening.
Right past the entrance, there’s the Guest Services Center. My bestie, whose birthday falls this month, got a free birthday pin, and I received a “Let’s Celebrate Together” pin.
We didn’t run. Following the tips I’d read, we headed straight to Soaring Over the Horizon and queued 20 minutes. Honestly, Disney’s version isn’t as thrilling as the one at Changchun Movie Wonderland – almost no stomach drop, but the visuals are nice, kids will love it.
After that, we dashed to Pirates of the Caribbean: Battle for the Sunken Treasure, widely recommended. Almost no queue; it’s a boat ride that can carry many people at once. As a pirate fan, I loved it. Not scary, but the visual effects are amazing – when the two pirate ships battle, you really feel immersed. The animatronic Captain Jack is incredibly lifelike. We came back for a second ride in the evening, using it like a relaxing boat rest.
My absolute favorite was Seven Dwarfs Mine Train. Only a 15-minute wait for the first ride, and it does have a bit of a thrill. Later when we wanted to repeat, the queue was already an hour. So buying the Early Entry Pass definitely pays off. By the time we finished, it wasn’t even 9am – all the hot rides done; the rest we could take at leisure.
On the way to TRON Lightcycle Power Run, we played on Winnie the Pooh’s Hunny Pots and Woody’s Roundup – virtually no lines, lots of little kids. The Hunny Pots are super photogenic. I felt genuinely happy, reminded of the teacups I loved at amusement parks as a kid. We then waited for Slinky Dog Spin, and the two of us were laughing like idiots. We realized: the attractions we’d read rave reviews about didn’t blow us away, maybe we’d overhyped them, but the ones people say are just okay we enjoyed immensely.
Winnie the Pooh’s Hunny Pots
A wild Dumbo appears – we skipped it; going in circles looked dizzy and not fun.
Woody’s Roundup
Strolled to TRON. I admit I was a bit scared, but my bestie really wanted to ride. Once I was on it, I became a different person – so exhilarating! I kept my eyes open the whole time, and when it ended I wanted more, dragging my scared friend to queue again. There was almost no line. You straddle the lightcycle, basically locked in; I don’t know why you don’t get thrown off. Part of it is indoors with futuristic neon lights, super cool; part is outdoors, and the speed is awesome. They say the current TRON is already a slowed-down version. I counted seven dives, but the dropping sensation wasn’t intense – totally manageable. If my friend hadn’t bailed, I’d have ridden at least once more.
I’d have gone for a third time, but we were tired and wanted something gentle. Right next door is Buzz Lightyear Planet Rescue, a sit-down shooting ride – a chance to rest, but really boring. Kids seemed to enjoy it. Then we watched the “Stitch Encounter” show. Following online tips, we asked Disney staff for stickers – just ask any cast member! And remember, don’t skip the janitorial staff; they often have loads!
My bestie played the Stitch game but I passed because the prize pins weren’t that cute. She didn’t score a single one. I laughed at her for a full three seconds!
We spent ages looking for the Chip ‘n Dale toss game (30 yuan). It looks easy when others play, but we were hilariously bad. The pin was cute, so I let it slide!
I have to rant about Roaring Rapids. How can anyone find this fun? I just spun and felt sick. Not thrilling, you need a raincoat or you get splashed. So dull.
By late morning we’d knocked out most rides. Around 1pm, exhausted and sleepy, we headed to Disneytown for lunch. Wandered around and ended up ordering a beef rice bowl (45 yuan) and a Happy Lemon drink (22 yuan). I actually fell asleep on the table for an hour after eating. I guess I’m getting old – I can’t handle a night like that anymore!
After resting until 3pm we went back into the park and stumbled upon a tai chi performance by Donald Duck and Chip ‘n Dale.
Right after, we grabbed a good spot for the parade, which was my most anticipated part. The parade started at 3:45. Chip ‘n Dale were the cutest, bouncing along happily.
Then we rushed to the castle for photos while it was slightly less crowded. At 4:45 there’s a princess stage show at the castle, with over-the-top costumes, and Mickey and Minnie all bedazzled.
Cinderella meets guests inside the castle, striking poses and keeping a professional smile. Being a princess is hard work!
Queuing to go up the castle, you can see a Snow White story. If you’re short on time, skip it – there’s not much to see inside, nowhere near as beautiful as the exterior, and climbing steps is tiring!
After the castle, we took photos on Mickey Avenue but only caught a back view of Mickey and Minnie hurrying off duty.
By now the park lights were on. We went to Adventure Isle for photos and rode Pirates again.
Then we queued for the carousel – the longest wait of the day, 30 minutes for a 2-minute ride. The night view was truly dreamy.
Afterwards, we found a spot for the fireworks show. Many people had staked out prime spots early; we simply couldn’t walk anymore, but our location turned out pretty good. Everyone sat on the ground so views were mostly unobstructed. When the music started, I got a little teary-eyed. The moment the fireworks burst, I wanted to scream.
The 15-minute show basically signals park closing – all rides and stores shut right after.
After exiting, we browsed fridge magnets at the Disneytown shops. At 9pm we found the hotel shuttle bus and returned.
I clocked 30,000 steps that day. My feet were destroyed; tomorrow I’d be a wreck.
I washed my socks last night and they weren’t dry this morning, so I went all day barefoot in my shoes and got two blisters. I salute my own grit.
Lay down at 10:30 and passed out instantly.
Day 2 [2 April] City God Temple – Yuyuan Garden – The Bund night view
Woke at 8:30, finally got out for breakfast at 9:30. The hotel breakfast was quite good.
At noon a shuttle took us to the airport, where we caught Metro Line 2 to our hotel near East Nanjing Road. A 10-minute walk from the station brought us to a small but decent place for the city center. Shanghai was so hot; I’d packed too warmly.
At 2:30 we went out again, took a taxi to City God Temple and first visited Yuyuan Garden (40 yuan).
Yuyuan Garden was built during the Ming dynasty Jiajing and Wanli reigns, over 450 years ago. Its owner, Pan Yunduan, once served as Sichuan’s administration commissioner. To let his father enjoy old age, starting in 1559 he built a garden on the family vegetable plot, arranging stones, digging ponds, erecting pavilions. After more than twenty years, Yuyuan was complete. Now covering 2 hectares, it features irregular towers, craggy rockeries, and lush trees, known for its tranquil beauty and delicate intricacy, embodying the Ming and Qing Jiangnan garden style.
The garden was bigger than expected. We left at 4:15, queued for a milk tea from 7Sweet (mango-white-peach-oolong version), then had supper at Songhelou: stir-fried crab roe (88 yuan), spicy crayfish noodles (38 yuan), crab roe xiaolongbao (18 yuan for 3), fine red bean dumplings (22 yuan), shepherd’s purse and shrimp spring rolls (15 yuan for 3), total 176 yuan. The taste was so-so; the crab roe turned fishy as it cooled. Overall, quite mediocre.
By the time we finished, it was almost dark – perfect for night photos of City God Temple.
We strolled a bit but got bored, so walked to the Bund. Foggy tonight, visibility not great. We took a sightseeing bus by the river, 50 yuan for 30 minutes, an open-top double-decker. The night view was lovely at first, reminding me of the movie “Tiny Times”. Then it just looped around with not much to see, and it got really cold. We ended where we started; felt like a waste of 50 yuan.
After getting off, we checked out the Oriental Pearl Tower and soaked up the glitzy vibe of the historic Bund.
Then we ambled down Nanjing Road, packed like a festival, similar to Central Avenue back home. The hotel was super close, a 10-minute walk, and we were back by 10:30.
Day 3 [3 April] Shanghai Museum – Sinan Road – Sun Yat-sen’s Former Residence – Sinan Books
Up at 7:15, out by 8:15. First, a stop at Lawson convenience store for teriyaki cartilage skewers, then Xiaoyang Shengjian for the triple mix (Sichuan pepper, shepherd’s purse, original Xiaoyang) and fish ball soup. Totally average.
From there, we walked about 10 minutes to the Shanghai Museum. A long queue – 15 minutes to get in. The museum is tiny, four floors but not much on display; it apparently relies heavily on donations. We breezed through.
At 11:30 we headed to Sinan Road. Zhou Enlai’s Former Residence is a patriotic education base and requires advance booking, so we skipped it and went to Sun Yat-sen’s Former Residence (20 yuan, police officers free).
Inside the iron gate, there’s a statue of Dr. Sun, behind which stands the Sun Yat-sen Museum. It houses his personal effects, the Zhongshan suit he wore, various Chinese and English documents from the era, and a silver tripod presented by supporters for his northern expedition. On the door-facing wall, calligraphy reads “All under heaven is for the common good.”
The museum is entered from the front and exited from the back. After exiting, you see Dr. Sun’s residence. To the right is the lawn; standing in the small garden feels especially tranquil and refined. To the left, you enter the two-story house: kitchen, dining room, and parlor downstairs; bedroom, study, and small sitting room upstairs. Almost everything is original, arranged according to his wife’s memories as it was in the 1920s–30s.
In the first room of the residence, there’s a box of shoe covers – you must wear them to enter. Don’t just put them on and leave; that room itself is the kitchen and worth seeing, with a 1930s coal stove and an imported gas stove that reportedly still works. Then visit the dining room and parlor, where a portrait of Dr. Sun hangs surrounded by colored ribbons arranged like a bell, symbolizing his awakening of the Chinese people with the “bell of revolution.”
After the tour, we checked out Sinan Books Poetry Store, set in a former church – lots of books inside, quite unique.
Then we just wandered Sinan Road, shaded by towering French plane trees, with old villas hidden in the greenery. I couldn’t help feeling a kind of decadent romance.
At 1:30 we took bus 96 to Wukang Road. Ba Jin’s Former Residence was closed, but we got photos of the iconic Wukang Building.
Afterwards, bus 911 back to Fushen Mansion. We rested a while at the hotel, then around 4pm went to Dexingguan for dinner: pork xiaolongbao (16 yuan), mixed seafood noodle soup (50 yuan), salted egg yolk and pork floss green rice cake (48 yuan). The noodles were okay, fish had a sweet taste, but the xiaolongbao were way too sweet and cloying.
We originally planned to photograph Lujiazui’s three landmark towers, but halfway my bestie didn’t want to go, so we walked to Jiujiang Road and snapped the Oriental Pearl instead.
We then found a Reader’s Bookstore to sit, write some diary notes, edit photos, and call it a day.
Day 4 [4 April] Zhoushan Putuo Mountain
Today my bestie and I split up – I set off for Mount Putuo while she stayed in Shanghai. Up at 5:40, walked to the parking lot by 6:35. I’d already booked my bus ticket online (130 yuan). Found our coach without trouble – the parking lot is right next to the museum we visited yesterday. The bus left at 7am, completely full. We stopped at Nanhu Service Area at 8:30 for a 15-minute break.
Part of the drive was on a sea-crossing bridge – if not for the overcast sky, it would have been stunning.
We arrived at Zhoushan Wharf parking lot at 11:30. Another 20-minute walk to the pier. I’d pre-booked the ferry ticket. At 11:50 I scanned my ID to board – crowds everywhere. Even after the ticket check, there was waiting. Boarded at 12:05. The East China Sea was so yellow – do the ribbonfish here really taste good?
The pier buildings looked a bit like a mini Potala Palace.
Got off the boat at 12:15, walked fifteen minutes to my hostel. Along the seaside path, the view was nice but it was sweltering. Looking up, you could see the South Sea Guanyin statue in the distance.
Mount Putuo (220 yuan entrance + ferry) is a sacred site of Guanyin Bodhisattva, known as the “Buddhist Kingdom on the Sea.” It has three main temples: Puji, Fayu, and Huiji.
Panoramic map of the mountain – you could easily spend three days exploring. I was short on time, so I only visited a few major temples. I regret not going to Luojia Mountain.
Shanghai had been gloomy, but Putuo turned out to be bright and sunny. After resting a bit at the hostel, I went out at 1:37pm and bought a bundle of incense for 30 yuan.
My hostel was very close to the South Sea Guanyin bronze statue. I didn’t feel lonely wandering alone; I followed the flow of people to the statue. It was truly magnificent. I stood gazing up quietly, making sincere wishes.
The standing Guanyin is 33 meters tall: the statue itself 18 meters, lotus platform 2 meters, and the pedestal 13 meters.
Following the crowd, I reached Purple Bamboo Forest, right by the sea, stunningly beautiful. Further ahead is Bukenqu Guanyin Temple.
“Purple Bamboo Forest” isn’t a grove of purple bamboo but refers to the Purple Bamboo Forest Zen Monastery, Bukenqu Guanyin Temple, Tide Sound Cave, and other sights. This is where Guanyin was first enshrined on Mount Putuo.
After that, I queued at Purple Bamboo Forest for a shuttle bus to Fayu Temple. I threw my itinerary out the window and just went with the flow.
There are several minibus stations on the mountain connecting major temples. Check the signs for schedules, scan to pay 10 yuan on board – very convenient.
Fayu Temple was gorgeous – towering ancient trees, many courtyards. I bowed wherever I saw a shrine. Wandering alone wasn’t tiring. At 4pm I wanted to go to Shancai Cave and Fanyin Cave, but they were closed due to overcrowding, so I again just went with the flow and headed to Foding Peak.
It was too late to buy round-trip cable car tickets, so I got a single (40 yuan). Took the cable car to Huiji Temple and finally found the Guanyin Hall where I paid respects to the White Jade Zhusheng Niangniang, hoping my wishes come true.
From Huiji Temple, you walk down 1,088 steps to Fayu Temple. Almost no one else around. The path was beautiful, with occasional stray cats. Though I stopped to rest, my knees and toes ached, and my legs were trembling – so tiring! At 17:35 I took a transfer bus back to Purple Bamboo Forest, found my hostel, then went down to the beach and was rewarded with a breathtaking sunset.
The tide was out and many visitors were beachcombing. I stood on the sand watching the sunset, feeling deeply at peace.
Feeling chilled, I bought some snacks at a small shop and went back to the hostel. Today, I decided to go vegetarian.
