An Unforgettable and Thrilling Journey

Duration: 9 days, Month: July, Per person cost: 4000 RMB, Travel companions: friends

We went on an adrenaline-filled adventure. With the pandemic still uncertain, we were jolted when Nanjing experienced a new outbreak right after our return—a nerve-wracking experience.

The monotony of work and life always makes us yearn for freedom, to soar into the sky and embark on a relaxing, carefree journey. It's all so simple, so easy. On a whim, we gathered our friends, escaped from the place we’re tired of, and wandered to another place others might be tired of—taking in culture, cuisine, and scenery at a glance.

This is a concise travelogue covering our 9-day journey. No flowery language, just a straightforward guide.

D1: 15:50 Quanzhou Jinjiang Airport – 17:30 Shanghai Pudong Airport. Booked flight+hotel package on Ctrip. Feike Hotel (arrange airport pickup in advance). Feike chain (Xianghe Home Hotel). Chen Xianggui Lanzhou Beef Noodles.

D2: Yonghe Soy Milk. Home Inn. Xiao Yang Sheng Jian. Yu Garden. City God Temple Snack Street. Lübolang. People’s Square. Chaoshan Tangle. Nanjing Pedestrian Street. The Bund.

D3: Luckin Coffee. 1933 Old Millfun. Lu Xun’s Former Residence. Lu Xun Park. Chen Xianggui Lanzhou Beef Noodles. Jing’an Temple. Tianzifang. Modern Lady—Red. Wukang Mansion. Yuncuifang.

D4: Zhujiajiao Ancient Town. Hongde Lou Home-Style Garden. Rose Hall.

D5: Meiliyuan Hotel (Huishijia). Xujiahui Catholic Church. Lu Hanbin Typewriter Museum. Shanghai Oriental Ceramic Art Gallery. Xian De Lai Rice Cakes & Ribs (Yandang branch).

D6: 8:25 Shanghai Hongqiao Railway Station – 10:06 Nanjing South Station. Xiaohuainiang Duck Blood Vermicelli. Zhan Garden. Nanjing Confucius Temple. Qinhuai River. Ximayunsu Hotel (Nanjing South Station branch).

D7: Zhongshan Mountain Scenic Area. Meiling Palace. First Lady Café. Ming Xiaoling Museum. Ming Xiaoling. Music Valley. Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum. Xie Xiaopang Handmade Sauerkraut Fish.

D8: Ming Palace Park. Laomendong. Minzhong Wonton & Meatball Shop. Guorandian. Fengwang BBQ. Presidential Palace. Nanjing Impressions (Presidential Palace branch). Metro (Yuhua branch).

D9: Luckin Coffee. KFC. 15:50 Lukou Airport – 17:30 home sweet home.

We started our journey together from Quanzhou Bell Tower West Street, took a taxi to Quanzhou International Airport, and everything proceeded smoothly as we waited to board. We had booked a flight+hotel package on Ctrip, with our first stop in Shanghai at Feike Hotel. Remember to arrange airport pickup with Feike in advance! In our rush, we didn’t notice the info and went to Feike on our own. We checked into Feike chain’s Xianghe Home Hotel. Right across from the hotel is a Carrefour supermarket, where we tried Chen Xianggui Lanzhou Beef Noodles. As we arrived late, we settled for a simple meal—Carrefour closes at 10 PM.

The pickled cabbage beef noodles had plenty of tender, smooth beef and chewy noodles. The tangy broth soaked into the bouncy noodles, making them super appetizing. A tea egg on the side brought an incredible sense of satisfaction.

Xianghe Home was simple yet cozy, with all the necessary amenities.

We woke up early, packed our things, and headed back to Carrefour for a lovely breakfast—Yonghe Soy Milk. A cup of hot soy milk, paired with crispy fried dough sticks (youtiao) dipped in special soy sauce, gave a whole new flavor. A great start to the day as we set off for downtown Shanghai.

We checked into Home Inn (Zhongshan Park Changning branch), conveniently close to the metro, train station, and attractions. Our room on the first floor was peaceful and quiet at night, with a real home-away-from-home feel.

No visit to Shanghai is complete without trying the iconic pan-fried buns (shengjian). When they’re fresh out of the pan, be careful of the hot juice that squirts! The skin is crispy and fragrant, the filling savory. One careless bite and you might end up splattered. Pair it with a bowl of duck blood vermicelli soup—loaded with duck blood, offal, and chewy glass noodles in a light broth. A hearty meal!

Our first stop was Yu Garden, a Ming Dynasty private garden in Shanghai’s Old City, a classic Jiangnan garden brimming with history. Inside, you’ll find dozens of ancient structures—pavilions, rockeries, ponds. The carved details, streams, and bridges make it truly worth exploring.

Leaving Yu Garden, we explored the Old City God Temple Snack Street. At Lübolang Restaurant, we tried their famous crab roe soup dumpling at 25 yuan each. You’re supposed to sip the crab soup first, then eat the dumpling. The crab broth was delicious, but from a Minnan palate, after sucking out the soup, the thick dumpling skin seemed bland.

Next was People’s Square. Because of this year’s centenary celebration, the flowers and greenery were beautifully arranged. In this leisure park, we stumbled upon a ‘matchmaking corner’ where parents eagerly search for partners for their children. They wrote their children’s details on paper, placed them on the ground or in corners, and waited for inquiries. It was touching yet poignant to see parents’ hard work and love.

After a day of non-stop walking, we rewarded ourselves at Chaoshan Tangle on the 4th floor of Raffles City. There, a good pot of porridge is like waiting for a fine romance—nothing rushed. We ordered crispy fried Puning tofu, traditional ginger fried eel with rice, Chaoshan braised platter, pepper pork belly chicken soup, and traditional oyster omelette. I loved the oyster omelette most—different from Minnan style, with a crispy pancake hiding fresh oysters, oozing sweetness. The braised platter was richly flavored, and the dipping sauce was a standout.

The Bund and Nanjing Pedestrian Street are must-visits. Even on our second time, the crowds were just as massive. The Bund, along the Huangpu River, features 52 classical buildings in various styles, earning it the nickname ‘Gallery of World Architecture.’ It was once the financial center of old Shanghai. Across the river is Lujiazui, with iconic structures like Oriental Pearl Tower, Jin Mao Tower, Shanghai Tower, and World Financial Center. The night view with lights shimmering on the river is breathtaking. Nanjing Pedestrian Street is heavily commercialized, with endless food and shopping stalls stretching far—all on foot. After a perfect day, we headed back to the hotel to rest.

I like sweets in the morning, so I found a Luckin Coffee near the hotel. A sweet, aromatic coffee with some toast—a great start to another day of exploring.

1933 Old Millfun, a niche and trendy photo spot, offers endless angles and structures for photography enthusiasts. Every inch of the building seems meticulously crafted; the layout is ingenious. Free entry, and well worth a visit.

Near 1933, we walked toward Lu Xun’s Former Residence, but due to the pandemic, advance reservations were required, which we missed. So we strolled through Lu Xun Park instead. With birdsong, fragrant flowers, and ponds full of lotus, locals gathered to sing and relax.

For a solo meal, I grabbed a bowl of Chen Xianggui Lanzhou pulled noodles—thick, chewy noodles with a subtle spicy kick, very appetizing.

Next stop: Jing’an Temple, resplendent in gold. Tickets cost 50 yuan per person—not really worth it. The temple is small, with few photo spots. You can skip it. After a quick look, we headed to the next destination—trendsetting photo spot Tianzifang.

However, it’s heavily commercialized, crowded during peak times. Try to visit off-peak. It’s worth seeing, especially for photography lovers—the architecture is old-fashioned and densely layered, and entry is free.

Then to the century-old Wukang Mansion, a must-see for its unique design. Photography enthusiasts flock here hoping to catch the ‘old lady who opens the window’ (a local icon). Free entry.

Even solo dining deserves quality. I checked in at Yuncuifang (Zhongshan Park branch). Remember to book ahead—walk-ins might not get a table. This restaurant oozes old Shanghai charm, with soft, warm lighting at night. I ordered a few specialties: soft-boiled egg, pan-fried dumplings, fresh meat wontons, and sweet-and-sour ribs. The ribs were tangy and tender; I loved them. The egg was great too. After a satisfying meal, I strolled back to the hotel, capping off a wonderful day.

The night before, we booked tickets for Zhujiajiao Ancient Town on Ctrip (47 yuan/person). After a subway ride and two bus stops, we arrived. Honestly, I wouldn’t recommend it. Later I learned that only the small interior attractions need tickets; the main entrance doesn’t require one. Inside, there were few little bridges and streams, some areas felt messy, lacking an antique charm. Some minor spots were a bit of a rip-off.

For lunch, we ate at Hongde Lou’s home-style garden restaurant. We had poached river shrimp—sweet and crunchy—an eggplant casserole that went perfectly with rice, and a light, refreshing tomato egg soup.

After a break at Zhujiajiao, we hit a must-eat list spot for dinner: Rose Hall, serving authentic Shanghainese cuisine. The garden was lit up like twinkling stars, with a homely vibe, old photos, and floral arrangements—quite charming.

We ordered plum-flavored ribs, osmanthus-sweetened lotus root, traditional seafood hot-and-sour soup, Rose Hall’s fried rice, pumpkin fermented glutinous rice balls, and noodles. The ribs were sour, savory, and tender; the seafood soup was spicy and refreshing; the fried rice had separate, shiny grains and amazing aroma. For dessert, the fermented rice balls were a beauty food—delicious and supposedly good for your skin.

A perfect end to the day with this must-eat feast.

A beautiful morning started with morning tea at Huishijia in the Meiliyuan Hotel, on the 3rd and 4th floors. Due to pandemic rules, we took the elevator to the 4th and walked down. The morning black tea was stomach-soothing; the serene setting and top-notch service offered a quiet respite from our busy trip. We had crispy shrimp rice rolls, traditional spare rib shaomai with black bean sauce, pea and squid crystal dumplings, White Rabbit candy, and ginger milk with bird’s nest. The spare rib shaomai was silky and flavorful; the adorable White Rabbit sweets were creamy and chewy. After a leisurely tea, we headed to Xujiahui Catholic Church.

Unfortunately, the church was closed due to the pandemic. We could only admire its Western-style architecture from outside—a real pity not to see the interior.

Next, we visited the Lu Hanbin Typewriter Museum and the Shanghai Oriental Ceramic Art Gallery, both in Jiadu Building. The vintage typewriters, each with a unique design, were fascinating—a testament to the era of word creation. Worth a visit.

The ceramic art was exquisite, with vivid figures from Journey to the West, mostly from the 1960s. Plates, figurines, animals—each had its own flair.

In the evening, we went shopping on Huaihai Road for local specialties and dined at Xian De Lai, trying their rice cakes, ribs, and fresh meat wontons. The wontons had thin skins and plump fillings, refreshing and tasty. The rice cakes were glutinous, the ribs crispy. Using Shanghai spicy soy sauce as a condiment with the wonton soup added incredible umami.

We set off from Shanghai Hongqiao Station to Nanjing.

We had pre-booked Ximayunsu Hotel on Ctrip. When arriving at Nanjing South Station, just walk out onto the street; the hotel is very close. Since we were early, we checked in, left luggage at the front desk, and went to nearby Xiaohuainiang for duck blood vermicelli to tide us over until lunch.

Duck blood vermicelli is a Nanjing specialty, with duck breast, intestines, and liver. Flavors include original, Sichuan peppercorn, and tomato. The original was clear and light, with smooth duck blood and chewy vermicelli. Paired with a baked bun, it was filling. Then off to sightseeing.

Our first stop: Zhan Garden, which tells the history of the Taiping Heavenly Kingdom with exhibits of relics. Inside, it’s like a maze—you can wander and not find your way out. With lush greenery, birdsong, and floral scents, the layout perfectly showcases Taiping-era architecture. We saw many young ladies in Hanfu taking photos.

After Zhan Garden, go out the main gate, turn left, and walk straight to the famous Confucius Temple Food Street. Stroll around for snacks and admire Huizhou-style architecture. If you have a student in the family, visit the Jiangnan Examination Hall to pray for success in exams.

After the snacks, as night falls, be sure to take a cruise on the Qinhuai River. Important: buy your boat ticket inside the Confucius Temple area to see the lit-up Huizhou buildings at their best. Don’t opt for the outer river—the view is vastly inferior. We wanted to try the famous Nanjing Impressions, but arrived too late and found long queues at both branches near the temple, so we gave up.

We headed to our accommodation, Ximayunsu, which lived up to expectations—spacious, bright, with two large beds. Though close to the road, soundproofing was excellent and it was very quiet. It was a full compact apartment with everything: fridge, washing machine, TV, and even a bookshelf with books, inviting you to pause and read. A perfect place to unwind after a long day.

In the morning, craving something sweet and light, I searched nearby and found a McDonald’s—left from the hotel, then left at the next traffic light, mid-block. My friend preferred congee with youtiao, while I had soy milk, youtiao, and a croissant. We took our time and enjoyed a hearty breakfast before starting the day.

Zhongshan Mountain Scenic Area (we booked a combo ticket on Ctrip in advance for 94 yuan/person). From the hotel, we took the subway with one transfer. After exiting, we grabbed a Hellobike—the scenic spots are far apart, so a bike helps. First, we headed to Meiling Palace. Feeling a bit sleepy, I tried a cup of First Lady coffee at the in-palace café, which perked me right up.

Completed in 1932, Meiling Palace was officially the National Government Chairman’s Residence, hailed as the finest villa in the Far East. It was a retreat for Chiang Kai-shek and Soong Mei-ling. Inside, a large portrait of Mei-ling hangs, with a long, elegant dining table. The green glazed roof is carved with over 1,000 phoenixes—unique in China. The interiors are luxurious; outside, lush woods and fragrant flowers abound. Built into the hillside, it’s a peaceful, picturesque spot well worth visiting.

Leaving Meiling Palace, we went to the Ming Xiaoling Museum (free entry), exploring relics of the Ming Dynasty at its peak. Ming Xiaoling is one of the largest extant imperial mausoleums in China. After the museum, we headed to the Ming Xiaoling Scenic Area itself, but due to the pandemic, we couldn’t see the actual tomb of the great emperor. The surroundings are vast, with mountains and water. So we took a scenic shuttle (10 yuan/person, buy on site) to the Music Valley.

The Music Valley is circular, but there was no music playing—just lots of pigeons, ha, it turned into a pigeon-feeding session. The fountain was off, and no music came on. A bit disappointing.

Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum is right next to the Music Valley. After exploring, we went in. To see the surroundings from above, you must climb over 2,000 steps—but again, due to the pandemic, the interior was closed. So after the strenuous climb, we couldn’t go inside. What a pity.

After visiting Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum, we headed to the nearest subway station. From the mausoleum exit, you can take an electric cart or a three-wheeled motorcycle down the hill (15 yuan for two).

Back near the hotel, we tried Xie Xiaopang Handmade Sauerkraut Fish. Craving something sour and appetizing, we bought a double meal set on a group-buying platform. Portions were huge; we couldn’t finish. However, the sauerkraut fish and spicy chicken were a bit disappointing—kind of a letdown.

Waking up, we repeated our McDonald’s breakfast and set off to see the former Ming Palace, once the largest imperial palace complex in history. Ravaged by war and time, all that remains is a park. Inside, an exhibition hall showcases Ming history, with digital displays recreating the palace’s former grandeur. A real shame.

After the palace, we visited Laomendong Food Street, a popular local spot. The ancient architecture is well preserved, though a bit commercialized. We tried Minzhong Wonton & Meatball Shop’s shrimp wontons—packed with fresh, crunchy shrimp in thin wrappers. Then dessert: Guorandian’s taro balls with red bean soup—chewy, sweet, and satisfying. Ha, we also got stinky tofu and grilled squid. A perfect snack lunch.

With full bellies and still early, we went to the Presidential Palace, a must-see in Nanjing. Under the banner ‘The World Belongs to All,’ we browsed the historical exhibits showing the offices in their heyday of the Republic era, neat and orderly. After the displays, we strolled through the back garden—birds, flowers, a refreshing oasis of calm amidst the city’s hustle.

We’d missed Nanjing Impressions at Confucius Temple, so this time we went early to queue at the Presidential Palace branch, which opens at 5 PM. We arrived in the morning ready to tick it off our list.

Under the glow of yellow lanterns, the restaurant exuded old Nanjing charm. Apparently there’s storytelling too, but we didn’t catch it. The menu is color-coded: red marks must-try dishes. The fermented rice and red bean soup is a Nanjing specialty. The Republic-style Meiling porridge is sweet and highly rated. Skip the dried tofu with Malantou. The plum-flavor spare ribs were tangy and tender; the salted duck, a Nanjing classic, had smooth, savory meat with a subtle saltiness—delicious! And the Nanjing mixed vegetables, a must-order, turned out to be a stir-fry of bean sprouts and the like—haha.

No trip to Nanjing is complete without bringing back salted duck. We found a Metro supermarket near the hotel (Yuhuashi branch) and bought some. Remember to pick the ‘Guihua Stone’ brand—48 yuan for three ducks with a 5% discount, quite a deal.

The weather turned nasty with a downpour, so we waited at the hotel until departure time to head to the airport and back home. While waiting, we went to the ground floor Luckin Coffee in the lobby. There were no signs, but asking the security guard led us to it.

Looking back, this Nanjing trip was truly heart-stopping. Five days after we returned, a COVID outbreak occurred at Nanjing Lukou Airport. We spent 14 anxious days in quarantine, but thankfully, everything turned out safe and sound.