Discovering Ancient Charm on Qingxi Old Street
Qingxi Ancient Town (Qingxi Old Street) is situated in Qingcun Town, Fengxian District, Shanghai. Formed from the sea between the late Sui and early Tang dynasties, it became a village in the early Song. A creek runs through the village, connecting to the sea, with lush reeds on both banks, hence the name Qingxi (Green Creek). After the Yongzheng reign of the Qing dynasty, Qingxi was renamed Qingcungang, and during the Republic of China era it was called Qingcun, with a history of over 1,400 years.
After restoration and conservation, the historic Qingxi Old Street has not only become more modern and trendy, but also preserved as much of its antique charm as possible. The restored old street is 1,330 meters long, built along the water and river, retaining the traditional layout and style of a Jiangnan water town.
Water is the soul of the ancient town, bringing unique vitality and spirit. Bridges and streams complement the buildings with black tiles and white walls, making the town exquisitely charming.
On both sides of the town river, a typical cluster of vernacular architecture from Shanghai's southern suburbs is preserved, and in 2004 it was designated a Shanghai Historic Conservation Area. In recent years, a number of historically protected buildings have been repaired and restored according to their original style, materials, and craftsmanship.
We entered the old street from Miaochang Lane. Miaochang Lane is perpendicular to Qingcungang Street, marking the boundary between East and Middle Streets. Running north-south, it is about 150 meters long and 6 meters wide. It is named after the Sanzhu Buddhist Temple at its north end, built in the late Yuan to early Ming dynasty.
The first thing we encountered was Sanzhu Temple Bridge, built during the Yongle reign of the Ming dynasty, over 600 years ago. This ancient stone bridge is a major thoroughfare for north-south traffic in Qingcun Town, also known as Sanguantang Bridge. Before 1949, two stone beams in the middle were broken, and stone blocks were brought from Baisa Temple to repair them, leaving the words “Qifeng Bridge” on the west side.
Standing on Sanzhu Bridge and looking east, you can see waterside stilted houses, their reflections shimmering in the water, creating a unique atmosphere.
Crossing Sanzhu Bridge and following the river, there is another old bridge, though I didn't see its name.
Turning west at the south end of Sanzhu Bridge, a stone slab bridge appears—this is Guangji Bridge. This bridge was once the most prestigious town bridge in Qingcungang. First built in the Ming dynasty, it was rebuilt in the 11th year of the Daoguang reign of the Qing (1831). After restoration, the streets on both north and south sides of Guangji Bridge were the busiest parts of Qingcungang Town, with bridge towers at either end. Many century-old shops were located here, and pedestrians bustled back and forth day and night, creating a lively scene.
Guangji Bridge spans Qingcungang from north to south, measuring 10.8 meters long and 1.55 meters wide. It holds significant historical and cultural value.
Not far away, we saw another ancient bridge with a sign indicating Nanhong Bridge. Built in the 31st year of the Kangxi reign of the Qing (1692), it is over 300 years old. The arched bridge is made of granite and bluestone, with 30 steps from south to north.
Originally a stone-step wooden-beam bridge built in 1692, Nanhong Bridge was rebuilt during the Yongzheng reign as a single-arch stone bridge. It is one of the few surviving Ming-Qing bridges in Fengxian, designated a district-level protected cultural relic in 2004. The central stone of the bridge is the masterpiece of its carvings, resembling a celestial dragon embracing or clusters of auspicious clouds, with a taiji diagram in the middle—symbolizing the orderly flow of all things and safeguarding peace. Nanhong Bridge is also called Huanlong Bridge, a single-arch bridge on a bluestone base. Ascending the bridge, you can see the graceful Yongshou Bridge intersecting across the water.
Yongshou Bridge was first built during the Qianlong reign of the Qing. The bridge runs east-west across Wolong'an Creek, and together with the adjacent Nanhong Bridge, forms the typical "double bridges" scene of a Jiangnan market town.
Nanhong Bridge and Yongshou Bridge connect to form a pair, with one square arch and one round, creating a unique sight that is a highlight of the ancient town. This is a classic Jiangnan double-bridge scene, but unlike those in Zhouzhuang, the two bridges intersect and have distinctly different styles.
Looking out from the bridge, a clear stream winds gently along. On both banks are two-story houses with whitewashed walls and black tiles, each nestled by the water. Willows droop along the riverside, vegetable gardens surround the homes. There are no red lanterns, no shops or tea houses—just authentic residences. Only wisps of smoke rise from chimneys, presenting a scene of peaceful, leisurely daily life.
Standing on Nanhong Bridge and gazing at the buildings on both shores, the serene, misty atmosphere of the water town seeps into your heart.
Crossing the double bridges, on the south side of the creek lies an exquisite garden. It turns out to be Nanyuan Garden, one of the Eight Scenic Spots of Qingxi.
Nanyuan Garden, originally called Yun Suo Garden, was built in the Zhishun era of the Yuan dynasty (1330) as the private residence of Tao Yuquan, one of the eight wealthy men of Songjiang at the time. It was the earliest private garden in Fengxian's history. In the mid-Jiajing period of the Ming, it was destroyed by Japanese pirates, and later restored based on historical records.
With jagged rockeries, small bridges over flowing water, winding corridors, and pavilions, all full of antique charm, it is now operated by "One Meter Garden," offering coffee and light meals.
A viewing platform stands beside Nanyuan, and across the water is a boat dock.
Looking at the row of old houses preserved in their antique style and Nanhong Bridge, whose reflections in the creek form a symmetrical beauty, one’s mind becomes especially tranquil.
Exiting Nanyuan, we entered the Wangjiaqiao Road landscape area, south of Nanhong Bridge, running parallel to Qingcun's Wolong Temple. The road is about 2 meters wide, shaded by weeping willows, with distinctive scenery. At the roadside, the time-honored Yanshengtang Chinese medicine shop features a statue of an old doctor waiting to take visitors' pulses.
There’s also a scene of children buying rice at a grain shop.
“One family, three jinshi”—Qingcun Town is a land of outstanding people, producing many literati and scholars throughout history. There were eight jinshi, including Zhang Bi and Huang Zhijuan, and dozens of juren like Yuan Kai. The father and sons of the Zhang family, all three becoming jinshi, is a celebrated story in Fengxian’s cultural history.
The Zhang Bi Memorial Arch stands on Qingcun West Street, originally named "Haixiu Arch." Emperor Jiajing of the Ming had it erected to commend the contributions of Zhang Bi and his sons to Qingxi Town. The arch, with three horizontal beams and four pillars, was largely destroyed before 1949, leaving only one beam and two pillars today. The east pillar is 3 meters high, the west pillar 4.7 meters, with floral relief carvings on the beam. In 2007, it was listed as an immovable cultural relic in Fengxian District. The surviving Haixiu Arch is also a major historic site on Qingxi Old Street.
Though only the eastern gate remains, exquisite "sea beast and wave patterns" are still visible on the ruins. Haixiu Arch, now a designated immovable relic, has for centuries silently recounted the glorious past of the Zhang Bi family and Qingxi Old Street.
Zhang Bi (courtesy name Donghai) was a jinshi in the second year of the Chenghua reign of the Ming (1466). He served as a secretary in the Ministry of War, vice director of the Ministry of War, and prefect of Nan'an (present-day Dayu, Jiangxi). A poet, his original calligraphic carvings are preserved in libraries. The "Donghai Pavilion" in Nanqiao's Guhua Garden was built to commemorate him.
Today, you can still see the former residence of Zhang Bi and his sons, as well as their calligraphic works, in Qingcun Ancient Town.
We arrived at the famous Wanghai Tower on the middle street of Qingxi Old Street. A three-bay, three-story building, it was the tallest structure in the Qingcun area before 1949, renowned near and far.
It was built by the Wu family of Bo'anli in the early Republic of China era. The Wus were a prominent clan in Qingcun, and they specially purchased American Douglas fir and other materials from Shanghai to construct this building. Because it was the only one of its kind in town, and one could climb high to gaze at rivers and the sea, it was named "Wanghai Tower" (Sea-view Tower). It has now been reconstructed according to historical records.
The pavilion, built in the early Republic, became famous as soon as it was completed. After 1949, it served as a tea garden, storytelling venue, and inn. During the old street's renewal, residents' homes with flowers and plants at their doorsteps became a charming sight. The interior now functions as a public exhibition space, currently hosting a calligraphy exhibition by Lu Weizhong.
Among the relatively well-preserved ancient buildings on the old street is the former residence of Yang Gaojing and Yang Kungao at No. 18 Middle Street, Qingcun Old Street. Built by Qing-dynasty juren Yang Kun, it is a two-story complex combining southern Chinese residential features with Huizhou-style architecture, covering about 500 square meters. It still has an original eaves gateway, a rarity in the entire Qingcun area. After restoration, the residence retains its original eaves gateway,
as well as "Guanyin hoods," horse-head walls, and carvings of bats, peonies, and cedars, all highlighting the distinctiveness of Qingcun’s ancient architecture. It is now a registered cultural relic protection unit in Fengxian District.
The horse-head wall, also known as a fire-sealing gable, can block the spread of fire in case of an outbreak. Together with the Guanyin hood, they symbolize "receiving blessings and welcoming good fortune," reflecting the historic character of the town.
As we walked, one ancient bridge after another caught my eye. Jifang Bridge, built in the sixth year of the Wanli reign of the Ming (1578), is over 400 years old. A three-arch granite bridge with a flat deck and stone balustrade posts, its carved patterns and name are still clear. The tightly fitted, sturdy structure is recognized as the finest three-arch stone bridge in Shanghai’s suburbs, comparable in value to the five-arch Fangsheng Bridge in Zhujiajiao. Legend has it that Jifang Bridge was built by a candy-swapping peddler who kept his word, hence its common name "Candy Bridge." Originally on Dongjie Street in Qingcheng, it was buried by earth when Jinhuigang was dug in 1978. In 2005, the 400-year-old bridge was excavated and relocated to the town's western river, reviving its former glory.
When visiting Qingxi Old Street, you can take a boat ride on Qingxi River to enjoy the scenery along the banks. The emerald water ripples gently, and the picturesque scenes on both sides make the boat itself part of the painting.
Along the banks of Qingxi River, there are many stilted houses, a distinctive feature of Jiangnan water towns. These structures are a testament to the wisdom of ancient people.
The stilted houses along the river on the old street are also very characteristic of a Jiangnan water town. These houses stand on the north bank of the town river, facing the water. The front half rests on the riverbank, while the back half hangs over the water, supported by stone pillars—the "stilts" are deeply embedded in the river.
Two-thirds of the riverside homes are built cantilevered over the water, supported by columns below. Watching rows of old houses preserved in antique charm and their symmetrical reflections in the creek induces an especially calm state of mind.
Huizhou-style architecture is visible everywhere in the ancient town, with hard gable roofs covered in small grey tiles, and large Guanyin hoods and soaring horse-head walls on the east and west gables.
Approaching the old street near Guangji Bridge, the buildings on both sides are adorned with strings of red lanterns—a symbol of traditional Chinese culture seen everywhere.
The street of Qingxi Old Street is paved with bluestone slabs, and along it are many winding, crisscrossing lanes.
The pavilions, stages, and ancient docks on the old street exude the patina of time. Walking by the street or the river, one feels transported back in history. Surprisingly, there is also "Manzhou Lane" (Manchuria Lane) here, over 200 meters long and 2 meters wide. During the Xianfeng reign of the Qing, the Taiping army occupied the area. To suppress them, the Qing court dispatched Manchurian cavalry to Qingcungang Town, and they garrisoned in this lane.
Locals called it "Manzhou Lane." After 1949, it was renamed "Jiefang Lane" (Liberation Lane), but old-timers still habitually call it "Manzhou Lane."
The "Guanyin hood" and horse-head walls showcase the architectural characteristics of Qingcun Old Street.
By an old water bridge, a straw rain cape hangs.
On a wall is written "Fisherman’s Song" by Tang-dynasty poet Zhang Zhihe: "In front of Xisai Mountain, white egrets fly; / Peach blossoms, flowing water, mandarin fish are plump. / A blue bamboo hat, a green straw cape, / Slanting wind, gentle rain, no need to go home." The Jiangnan beauty and leisurely life depicted in the poem perfectly describe Qingxi Old Street. "No need to go home in the slanting wind and gentle rain" — strolling here, you'll feel content and reluctant to leave.
"Pawnshop Water Bridge": the river revetment, commonly called a water bridge or water dock, serves multiple purposes on Qingxi Old Street. Basic functions include boat access, fetching water, and washing. Compared to docks on other old streets, those here have more functions, which relates to the local topography and commerce. Most are embankment-style, and some are cantilevered.
There are single-sided, saddle-shaped, double-bucket outward-facing, inward-facing, and straight water-lane bridges, generally made of granite.
The three-sided water bridge here is rare in Jiangnan.
Qingxi Ancient Town is a paradise-like town, an authentic village within a global metropolis, a beautiful town yet to be submerged by urbanization.
Today, Qingxi Old Street retains its lingering charm and remains the heart and even soul of Qingcun Town. There are many cultural relics and historic buildings here that bear witness to the history and culture of the old street. Here, you can learn about Qingcun's past and feel its profound cultural heritage.
The Zhang Bingguan Residence is located at No. 56-64 East Street, Qingxi Old Street. Facing south, it has a front and rear hall with five bays, side rooms on the east and west, and a central courtyard. The building has a small grey-tile roof, hip edges on both halls, hard gable roof, Guanyin hood on the gables, and exquisite wooden carvings, covering over 500 square meters. On May 15, 2017, it was listed as a "Cultural Relic Protection Site of Fengxian District."
Zhonghe Bridge lies east of Qingcungang Town, running north-south. Built in the 14th year of the Qianlong reign of the Qing (1749), it is 17.5 m long, 2.77 m wide, 3.9 m high, with a span of 6.25 m. It is a single-span flat bridge with stone abutments made of granite, no bridge pillars, with four flat beams per abutment. Originally, it had wooden railings, replaced by iron railings in the 1950s. In 2007, it was listed as an immovable cultural relic (registered) in Fengxian District.
Climbing the high-arched Zhonghe Bridge and looking both ways, you can take in the ink-wash painting-like scenery of the Jiangnan water town on both banks of the town river, including the covered corridor on the right.
The Li Kiln beside Zhonghe Bridge.
At the end of the old street, there is Qingxi Book Bar, with outdoor leisure tables and chairs for visitors. Across from it stand four statues of Qingxi celebrities.
In ancient times, Qingxi valued culture and education, producing many literati and famous figures. The most renowned was Zhang Bi, a celebrated Ming-dynasty calligrapher and master of cursive script. He excelled not only in calligraphy but also served as an upright and accomplished official. His sons, deeply influenced by him, were diligent in serving the people. Emperor Jiajing, moved by the merits of the Zhang family, ordered the construction of Haixiu Arch in their hometown to honor them as "Outstanding Talents of the East Sea."
This is also another entrance/exit of Qingxi Old Street. Opposite a quiet lane is the town book bar and Sixiangyuan (Nostalgia Garden).
On the right, there’s a bridge from which you can view the old street.
Returning via the "Humiao Corridor," the waterside buildings form a beautiful scroll of Jiangnan water town scenery.
The once dilapidated streets have been renovated, with various cultural creative shops, guesthouses, and snack stores settling in. The area, originally a Shanghai Historic Conservation Area, while preserving the typical vernacular architecture of Shanghai's southern suburbs, has now gained new vitality and vigor.
This trip was short, and there are many district-level protected buildings and several popular social-media photo spots I didn't have time to visit. I'll save them for my next visit.
