Hello Again, Shanghai
Always living in Beijing, I have no yearning for big cities. My vacations would take me into nature, accompanying mountains and valleys, befriending streams and seas.
Suddenly, I wanted to see Shanghai.
Years ago, as a transit point on a trip to Suzhou, we had stayed for just one day. Come to think of it, nearly twenty years have passed since that visit.
Everything is as planned!
A heavenly blessing came in the last quarter of this year – a lavish, extra-long holiday that I couldn’t let go to waste. I planned to take my parents on a monthly excursion.
Shanghai, known as the Magic City, sits proudly at the mouth of the Yangtze River in the Yangtze River Delta. Exotic old buildings line its streets, exuding a unique cultural atmosphere. The headquarters of many financial institutions are here, underscoring its pivotal role in China's capital market; it is hailed as the 'Pearl of the Orient.'
A recent hotspot, Chongming Island – Shanghai’s backyard garden – is China’s third-largest island after Taiwan and Hainan. Connected by a cross-sea bridge and an undersea tunnel, you can now drive there directly, sparing me the psychological shadow of taking a ferry.
Zhouzhuang – I visited many years ago, but my memories are fuzzy. My computer’s willful forced vacation left me with no photos at all, so this time I wanted to revisit it together.
A rough plan for touring Shanghai and its surroundings began to take shape.
My close girlfriends, who ditched me for their own summer trip to Shanghai, provided me with super practical references and a chance to be lazy, especially regarding restaurants. I felt I didn’t even need to study the menus; I could already order a tableful of dishes at several restaurants I’d been longing to try.
In the past, on our many self-driving trips, we would arrive at the train station or airport and have our veteran driver rent a car. This time, the old master couldn’t come, so it was my first time renting and driving on my own – I was a bundle of nerves. I picked a rental company on Ctrip and chose the cheapest Volkswagen Bora. Before departure, I looked up pictures of the car to locate the fuel cap button, figure out where to mount my phone for navigation, adjust the side mirrors... I brought two different phone mounts and set off anxiously.
I also checked Shanghai’s traffic restrictions. The distinctions between inner ring, outer ring, elevated roads confused me, so I deliberately chose a car with a Shanghai license plate, which could go anywhere, saving me worry.
At the high-speed train station, I picked up the car and drove straight to the hotel to rest.
In the evening, we took a taxi directly to the only destination of the day: Wukang Road. Taking a taxi was brilliant; a couple of hundred meters before we got there, the traffic was already crawling. There was simply nowhere to park. At the intersection, police were directing traffic in several directions, occasionally shooing tourists who had wandered into the middle of the road for photos back onto the sidewalk.
At the corner, the Wukang Building is the iconic landmark of Wukang Road and a popular photo spot. We circled the building from different angles at the intersection, then entered its ground-floor arcade to admire this historic gem. The red exterior walls, triangular window pediments, small balconies with iron railings – all in a strong French Renaissance style. The ground floor features the arcade style typical of Southeast Asian shophouses; you can stroll along the corridor, where some small shops have opened. The overall shape resembles a giant cruise ship waiting to set sail.
Wukang Road is praised as 'the road of celebrities that encapsulates nearly a century of Shanghai’s history.' Walking along, we passed numerous historical buildings displaying different exotic styles. This area is also a gathering place of former residences: Ba Jin’s former residence and Soong Ching-ling’s former residence are both here. Rows of plane trees line both sides of the road, their trunks tall and straight, their crowns lush and green, their leaves dancing gracefully. They couldn’t help but evoke that romantic legend: 'Because she loved wutong trees, they were planted all over Nanjing.' It seems that not only Nanjing but also Shanghai has been graced by these love-filled wutong trees!
The restaurant recommended by my girlfriends, 'Laojishi,' was right near Wukang Building. After strolling along Wukang Road, we came here for dinner and a rest. I figured that arriving at just past five meant we wouldn’t need a reservation. But when we got there, through the small entrance, we could already see the place packed with tables. The hostess considered for a moment and sent us up to the second floor, urging us to eat quickly. The space inside was cramped and dimly lit, with steep, narrow stairs. Tables and chairs were jammed together, and every seat was taken. Only a tiny table directly opposite the staircase was left for us – we had no choice. Besides the must-order Jishi braised pork, we also ordered Jishi salty chicken, braised bamboo shoots, and stir-fried mushrooms with bean curd skins, with scallion oil noodles as the staple. The braised pork was too sweet and cloying; one or two pieces were enough. The salty chicken lived up to its name – it was incredibly salty. The dishes fully embodied the characteristic 'heavy oil and dark soy sauce' of authentic Shanghai cuisine. On our first visit to Shanghai, we had to sample this local favorite, listed among the city’s must-eat places. It was a bit pricey.
There are many ancient water towns in Jiangnan, but among the six major ones, Zhouzhuang holds a unique place. Zhouzhuang belongs to Kunshan City under Suzhou, southeast of Suzhou proper, and about seventy kilometers from Shanghai. With over nine hundred years of history, it is one of the first batch of 5A-rated scenic spots in China. Renting a car made everything convenient; after an hour’s drive, we arrived. Zhouzhuang has several parking lots and many routes into the ancient town – just follow the canals and roam at will.
You can tour the ancient town in various ways, like 'boarding a rocking boat and dreaming a water town dream.' We chose not to take a boat and instead wandered along the riverbanks and through the alleys. The whole of Zhouzhuang is a water town painting: small bridges, flowing water, and households. The environment is serene, the architecture quaint. Waterways crisscross the town, and old Ming- and Qing-era buildings stand along the rivers. Surrounded by water on four sides, forming a '井' (well) shape, it embodies the very essence of a water town. Where there are rivers and streets, there are bridges – Zhouzhuang’s many bridges are one of its features. The most famous are the Yong’an Bridge and the Shide Bridge, also known as the Twin Bridges, made world-famous through the paintings of Chen Yifei. One lies horizontally, the other vertically; one arch is square, the other round. This is a spot no photography enthusiast or tourist would miss.
Along both sides of the streets and canals, all kinds of restaurants and small shops line up. Suzhou embroidered fans, Wansan trotters, silk garments – all characteristic of Zhouzhuang. Even without plans to buy, you can’t help but stop to admire. The legendary 'Wansan trotter' is by far the most dazzling sight. From the moment we parked and looked around, to every street and alley within the old town, they were being sold everywhere. Wansan trotters and hocks are the culinary icons of Zhouzhuang, glossy and beautifully packaged, displayed prominently in shops.
The cultural depth of Zhouzhuang is enhanced by the Shen Hall, Zhang Hall, and numerous other residences of the commercial genius Shen Wansan. The Shen and Zhang halls are indeed grand, with courtyard after courtyard, carved beams and painted rafters exquisitely done. The ornaments and hanging artifacts inside are artistic treasures that even modern aesthetics hold in high esteem. The craftsmanship of the past is truly worth appreciating and learning from.
After a long walk, we felt a bit tired and happened upon the 'Wansan Restaurant' I’d seen in reviews. The restaurant is built by the river, and on the second-floor loft, you can rest while enjoying the scenery of small bridges and flowing water. The set meal we ordered was economical and included the must-try Wansan hock, along with steamed whitefish, scrambled eggs with silver fish, and river mussel and tofu soup. Perfect for three people.
The painter Luo Guanzhong once said, 'The Yellow Mountain gathers the beauty of China’s mountains; Zhouzhuang gathers the beauty of China’s water towns.' Although personal aesthetic views differ, the charm of Zhouzhuang is ultimately undeniable.
In the afternoon, we drove back to Shanghai. The roads were empty and smooth, and seeing that it was still early, we decided on a short visit before returning to the hotel. We chose the nearby site of the First National Congress of the CPC and Sinan Mansions. The brand-new red-and-gray brick complex of the Congress site and memorial hall is a patriotic education base. Visitors came in twos and threes in a steady stream; it’s a good spot for photos. Sinan Mansions, located on Sinan Road, is a cluster of meticulously restored historic buildings, now housing cafes, hotels, flower shops – blending fashion with history. Parking in downtown Shanghai was so expensive!
For dinner, we went to another restaurant recommended by my friends – Ruifuyuan Lianyi Restaurant. Learning from yesterday’s lesson, I called to book a table. We arrived just after seven and still had to wait a short while. I straight away ordered the dishes I had in mind: stuffed snails, crab meat and tofu, wheat gluten, four-season bran dough, salad, and pan-fried crab buns. The table was full. The sweet and sour pork ribs I’d been craving had long been sold out. Overstuffed, we treated our hard-working elders to a big dinner.
A must-see day in Shanghai city:
The photos from our trip to Shanghai many years ago were lost, and few memories remain. The xiaolongbao at the City God Temple was one lingering impression. The City God Temple and Yuyuan Garden are must-visits in Shanghai, and today’s itinerary, without traveling far, would be right in the city.
The City God Temple and Yuyuan Garden are close to each other, both within a large area – the City God Temple sightseeing district and Yuyuan Shopping Mall. It is said that many people know Yuyuan but only wander around the commercial area without ever stepping inside. The mall is huge, with entrances from all sides, integrating sightseeing, shopping, and dining into one vast zone.
The City God Temple is a Taoist temple built during the Ming Dynasty, with over six hundred years of history. The temple is not large, but incense burns vigorously inside. Wisps of smoke curl upward. At the entrance, you can pick up free incense; three slim sticks, a small gesture of respect, wishing for all to go smoothly.
Yuyuan Garden is the quiet heart within the bustling sightseeing area. Free from the commercial clamor of shops, it is a garden in the Jiangnan water-town style, built during the Jiajing and Wanli periods of the Ming Dynasty, some four to five hundred years old. Inside, pavilions, terraces, halls, and towers are interspersed with rockeries and genuine stones. Winding corridors meander through, with verdant trees and deep, emerald-green pools.
Although it was late autumn, the weather in Jiangnan was still very warm; the trees remained lush and vibrant, full of life. And because it was late autumn, the air was filled with the fragrance of osmanthus blossoms, bringing a sweet joy to the heart.
After a long walk along the zigzag bridge, we moved on to another important theme: tasting big and small buns. In Shanghai, some buns are for eating, others for drinking.
The giant soup dumplings at Lü Bo Lang cost twenty-five yuan each, not cheap, but the queue was sometimes long, sometimes short, never ending. The dumplings, larger than your palm, sit soft in the dish. You carry them carefully, the thin skin barely holding the soup inside, which wobbles with your every step as if ready to burst out. We luckily found a bench nearby and sat down to enjoy them. I’d read guides showing people eating standing up or squatting; it’s definitely better in the off-season! Eating requires skill: first, poke a small hole in the dumpling with the straw to let out the steam; some soup will spill onto the plate. Hold the plate steady, or the thin paper plate will let it drip everywhere – the stains on the floor were a warning. After drinking the soup, there’s hardly any filling left, and the skin isn’t worth eating, but considering how expensive they were, we didn’t waste a bit. It was almost noon, and we wanted lunch at Lü Bo Lang, but the line outside the restaurant snaked around, so we gave up. After passing a few shops, we found ourselves in the queue for Nanxiang Xiaolongbao. One of my few vague memories from nearly twenty years ago was lining up here. We bought two steamers and took them back to the hotel to rest.
In the early evening, we set off again toward Nanjing Road. Our big dinner that night was at Gui Man Long on Nanjing Road. There was still time, and we’d rested well in the afternoon, so we decided to stroll Nanjing Road first, then eat.
Nanjing Road is hailed as the ceiling of China’s pedestrian streets, with shops lining both sides. Looking around, modern buildings intermingled with old European-style edifices. There were century-old department stores alongside new shopping centres, and all sorts of restaurants, small shops, and food stalls. The old Shanghai snow cream held sway as the quintessential local souvenir. Shop signs glowed, crisscrossing in a visual symphony.
The Hangzhou cuisine at Gui Man Long did not disappoint. The old-fashioned West Lake vinegar fish, the 'da zhu gan si' (braised shredded tofu skin), and the oil-blasted shrimp – each was a classic. The brown sugar mochi and deep-fried smelly tofu were also delicious snacks, beautifully plated. I’d been eyeing Gui Man Long in Beijing but never got to try it; Shanghai finally satisfied my palate.
After dinner, we stepped back into Nanjing Road. Lights were just coming on, and the neon signs sparkled, adding a unique allure that showcased the glamour and modernity of Shanghai.
Chongming Island two-day trip:
Chongming Island, China’s third-largest after Taiwan and Hainan, has gained recognition in recent years as a short getaway backyard garden for Shanghainese. The construction of the undersea tunnel and cross-sea bridge brought it closer, making a self-drive trip very convenient.
Chongming is vast, with attractions scattered around, mainly divided into an eastern and a western cluster. We first head to Xisha Wetland Park and Mingzhu Lake at the westernmost tip. Driving along, I realized just how huge the island was – few cars, few people, beautiful environment, and fresh air. The roads were newly paved, with countryside and fields on both sides, no high-rises. With guardrails along both sides that looked like a highway, only the occasional traffic light reminded me that this was an ordinary road, not an expressway.
Entering Xisha Wetland Park, at first glance we saw a vast expanse of wetlands with lots of water. Rows of tall trees stood neatly, their roots in the swamp, trunks straight, leaves lush. We followed the wooden boardwalk deeper into the scenic area. The massive trees gradually gave way to vast reed beds. Winding through the reeds, the boardwalk twisted and turned; just when it seemed about to end, another long stretch appeared around a corner. The fresh air and the invigorating scent of plants made us forget the fatigue of walking. The most active residents in the wetland were the little crabs – much bigger than those you see digging holes on sandy beaches. I didn’t recognize the species, and after reading the info board I already forgot what it said; anyway, they weren’t the hairy crabs or swimming crabs I’m used to. Glancing casually into the wetland, you could see tiny crabs scuttling everywhere. Their little burrows are their happy homes. Judging by the chef’s standards, these would be perfect for drunken crabs. When we got tired, there was a small pavilion halfway along the boardwalk with pictures introducing the world’s top ten wetlands. At the far end, the walkway brought us within arm’s reach of the Yangtze River. Leaning on the railing and gazing into the distance, I felt relaxed and joyful.
Xisha Mingzhu Lake is a separate scenic area three kilometres from the wetland park. Here, we took an electric cart for a circuit tour around the lake. The eight-kilometre path was beautiful, winding through lakes, forests, and wetlands. We felt like sudden intruders. Every man-made structure seemed like an imposition on the pristine natural beauty.
We got off at the cart stop nearest the gate and plunged into the pink muhly grass for photos. I’d seen muhly grass in a few parks in recent years, but here it formed a sizable patch that drew us in for countless poses. Amid all the greenery, the pink always adds a stunning touch to photos.
After leaving Mingzhu Lake, we looked for lunch near the scenic area and felt the off-season’s desolation and bleakness. The few scattered farmhouse-style restaurants were all closed. We had to head to the next attraction, Dongping Forest Park. Fortunately, there was a restaurant at the park entrance – not a farmhouse, but one belonging to a hotel open to the public. We caught the last table before the chef clocked off at 2:30 p.m. and ordered a few simple dishes. A little later, two more guests came and were told the kitchen was already closed. We secretly rejoiced at our perfect timing. There, we tried a small cold dish called golden squash, sweet and sour, very refreshing.
Stepping into Dongping Forest Park, I once again felt the first impression of Chongming’s scenic spots: so big! Every direction offered boundless beautiful views and empty paths. We decided to stick close to the entrance and explore just a small nearby area.
The trees were lush, the air fresh, the variety of flowers and plants extensive. Autumn colours were just beginning to show, a palette of hues. Signs pointed to many amusement projects, themed gardens, and barbecue areas. Just imagine: in this natural forest oxygen bar, spending a few carefree days with family and friends would be a wonderful treat.
Even that small area tired my legs.
We were touring Chongming from west to east, and Dongping Forest Park sat in the middle. Our pre-booked holiday hotel was nearby. Without a dining plan, we found a well-reviewed restaurant on the spot, only to see it fully occupied. Bayi Road pedestrian street looked like the centre of a small town, with some shops and eateries. We got KFC and returned to the hotel to rest, rewarding ourselves with chocolate ice cream after driving more than two hours from Shanghai to Chongming – our first self-drive of the trip.
Day two on Chongming, we visited Dongtan Wetland Park at the island’s easternmost tip, where the Yangtze meets the sea.
In the wetland tidal flats, colourful flowerbeds dazzled the eyes. In the pond, lotus leaves were still lush and green, but unfortunately, the lotus flowers had withered. An electric cart took us deep into the scenic area. We followed the boardwalk further, with graceful galsang flowers lining both sides. Venturing into the depths of the blossoms, every snap was a beauty shot. A windmill cabin among the flowers evoked fairy-tale dreams. By the pond, there were penned ducks and geese honking, adding life to the scenery. Dongtan Wetland Park is a crucial stop for migratory birds and a wintering ground for waterfowl. Signs for birdwatching and photography were everywhere, but unfortunately, our season was not the right one.
Shanghai, history and modernity:
Back in Shanghai! Through tunnels and over bridges, smooth driving all the way.
Our hotel that day was on East Nanjing Road, very close to the Bund. The two restaurants I had in mind were near the hotel. The great location came at a cost: parking was inconvenient. The streets around the hotel were all no-go zones; maybe the navigation didn’t know yet. We circled several times but couldn’t find a way in. Finally, we found a parking lot in a nearby alley – 120 yuan for 24 hours, so expensive! But we had no choice.
Entering the hotel, a faint, subtle fragrance greeted us, bringing a sense of pleasure and relaxation. We dropped off our luggage, stepped out, and looked for lunch first. The highly recommended Dahuchun shengjian was right around the corner. By the time we walked over at past one in the afternoon, quite a few diners still sat scattered around. We ordered one serving each of the three classic fillings: pork, prawn, and crab. Dipped in a little vinegar, the golden, crispy yet not hard bottom, the filling fresh and generous without being greasy. After returning home, I told my husband, 'This is the best shengjian I’ve ever had.' And it was affordable, honestly priced. Rushing to eat, I only noticed on the way out the many accolades hung on the wall: China Famous Snack, China’s Gold Medal Snack, Huangpu District Intangible Cultural Heritage, Shanghai’s Top 100 Gold Medal Snacks, Michelin listing, Dianping listing – a whole wall of honours.
Through a short alleyway, we emerged onto the Bund.
The Bund is the definitive symbol of Shanghai. In countless old movies and TV dramas, a shot of Shanghai is always heralded by the clock tower of the Shanghai Customs House. The varied architectural styles of the Bund buildings tell the city’s history. Looking across the river, the iconic trio of Lujiazui landmarks showcases Shanghai’s modernity and style. As we admired the view and strolled along the Huangpu River, we arrived at Chen Yi Square. Chen Yi, Shanghai’s first mayor, stands in a heroic statue on the square.
The Bund was thronged with visitors, but much better than the peak season scenes I’d witnessed before – no crushing crowds. Taking photos was easy, with no need for grand group shots. Somewhat disappointing was the weather: a hazy grey, not crisp, so the photos didn’t turn out well.
We saw the famous Peace Hotel. This century-old historic building is a landmark on the Bund’s architectural skyline and a national key cultural relic. It appears frequently in film and television, and the mysterious legends surrounding it have never ceased.
Passing the Peace Hotel, wow – our Jinjiang Metropolis Hotel was right next door. When booking, I only noticed it was convenient for the restaurants I had plotted, never expecting to be neighbours with the Peace Hotel.
During a short rest back at the hotel, I nipped out to buy the butterfly pastry from Park Hotel that my friend recommended. There’s a reseller nearby, so no long queues, though a bit pricier. The butterfly pastries were bigger than my palm, bursting with a creamy aroma so sweet it made you want to bite right in. You had to eat them carefully; crumbs would scatter everywhere.
After a brief hotel rest, we headed out again in the early evening. That afternoon, we couldn’t wait to enter Nanjing Road again and walk through it to get to 'Laotou Youbaoxia' (Old Man’s Oil-Blasted Shrimp). Our hotel was on East Nanjing Road: stepping out, to the left you could see the Oriental Pearl Tower, to the right was Nanjing Road.
It’s absolutely possible to pine for a city because of a restaurant. I love Hangzhou and have been there many times. Ever since a colleague recommended 'Laotou Youbaoxia,' it became a must-eat every time I visited Hangzhou. This trip almost included a day trip to Hangzhou just for it, but then I discovered a branch near my Shanghai hotel – I was ecstatic. I had checked many times: no branch in Beijing. I thought, if 'Laotou Youbaoxia' ever opens in Beijing, I’d become its VVIP for sure.
Once again we stepped into Nanjing Road. A stall selling Old Shanghai snow cream had set up a small kiosk in the middle of the street; every time we passed, we were warmly invited to try some. We saw this old domestic product everywhere these days; the light jasmine and osmanthus fragrances are my favourite. I’m no travel newbie, so I immediately ordered online and had it delivered home.
Long time no see, 'Laotou Youbaoxia.' The must-order classics: oil-blasted shrimp and dry-fried ribbonfish. We also ordered West Lake lotus root charm, tender shrimp and sweet beans, and 'bread no longer entices,' a few small dishes. The delicious taste was unchanged; fully satisfied, it felt like I was back by the West Lake.
The Bund at night was incredibly lively. The Oriental Pearl Tower kept changing colours, and all sorts of coloured lights flickered on the surrounding buildings. The noise was deafening. The Bund entrances switched to one-way traffic, with police maintaining order. To take a photo at a prime spot, you had to queue and squeeze in. So many people that the word 'stampede' crossed my mind!
Today we were leaving Shanghai to return to Beijing. Outside, a light drizzle fell under an overcast sky. But we couldn’t waste this precious morning. After a quick hotel breakfast, we headed to the Bund again. Miraculously, the rain stopped as we stepped out, leaving only light and dark grey clouds drifting by – our luck was almost too good to be true. Compared to yesterday’s murky haze, today’s photos turned out much better. There were hardly any people on the Bund, a stark contrast to last night’s bustle. We could snap photos at will, commandeering a whole swath of space – such extravagance!
We walked to Waibaidu Bridge and found the exact spot where my friends had taken photos on their trip, posing for our own shots. No comparison, no heartbreak: their summer blue-sky white-cloud photos were indeed stunning. Waibaidu Bridge isn’t long, about a hundred meters, an all-steel silver-white structure with a century of history, also a frequent filming location. Crossing the bridge, we entered the Bund Origin area and followed the alleyways back. Exotic historical relics were everywhere, deep and heavy yet resilient and elegant. After returning home, my husband asked what impressed me the most. I said, 'Shanghai’s old buildings – I couldn’t get enough of them; they calmed my heart.' For someone who loves mountains and natural scenery, this answer surprised even me.
At noon, we had an early lunch. Absolutely no regrets: we ate the crab noodles and shrimp noodles at Yuxing Ji – luxurious and satisfying. The set meal included squirrel fish, making up for my earlier dilemma at Gui Man Long between West Lake vinegar fish and sweet-and-sour squirrel fish. This trip’s culinary experience was perfect; not a single planned meal was missed!
On the over four-hour high-speed train ride back, I began refining next month’s itinerary!
October 2023
