2024 Martell Gastronomy Theatre: A Chinese-French New Year’s Eve Dinner Unforgettable for Both i‑People and e‑People
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[i vs e]
i‑person: “How can we drink if we don’t know each other?”
e‑person: “How can we know each other if we don’t drink?”
A half‑i like me: “Give me a bit of light, and I can pass as an e‑person.” That light comes from Martell’s “Gastronomy Theatre” itself, with its own glow. This year, there are two national treasure‑level Michelin chefs from China and France, plus a Michelin Young Chef Award winner who’s in high demand, each time they are godlike presences. The flashing cameras, almost lighting up the dark theatre corridors, add a layer of mystery to this borrowing of the spotlight.
Alexandre MAZZIA’s menu often feels like a plane ticket. This time, when I asked him where he would take me, he said, “In a dream.”
In that dream, I met Chef Guangtan, whom I first got to know on Zhejiang TV’s “Heard It’s Delicious”. Seeing him again, and having once been a judge for him, I had to seize the moment to catch up. Chef Guangtan’s personality is actually quite like mine; when the stage lights hit, the desire for culinary exchange in his eyes almost borders on fervent, but in private he’s a bit of an i‑type, sometimes shyly lowering his head when talking to strangers.
During the show, I already admired this French chef with a Chinese palate; his dishes blend East and West, always bringing unexpected ideas. This time, being in the half‑home‑turf of his fellow countryman Alexandre MAZZIA, I naturally had to ask a bit more.
Chef Guangtan, who crossed over from business school to the kitchen, has his hometown of Marseille as his foundation. “As a representative of the French Mediterranean style, the seafood there is very famous, with many varieties, and it’s quite different from Atlantic seafood. The many immigrant populations, especially from North Africa, have slowly blended and transformed Marseille’s traditional flavors. Spices like star anise and saffron, not common in traditional French cuisine, even appear,” he said.
So that dream must be full of colors, I couldn’t help thinking.
Since we’re catching up, we had to talk about the recording of “Heard It’s Delicious”. Guangtan said that on the show, fine dining dishes aren’t very suitable; if they’re too complex, it’s harder to convey the flavors through the screen, so you need to focus on one product and clearly define the star. I was curious: if this pairing with Cognac were a question for him, how would he answer? “Actually, there are many Cognacs, with grapes coming from different Crus, and blending eaux‑de‑vie of different years and grape varieties has a big influence. That’s why Cognac is so interesting, always bringing us many surprises.”
Liu Hesen (Jason), Alexandre MAZZIA, Huang Jinghui (from left to right)
The master of French culinary aesthetics Alexandre MAZZIA, the leading inheritor of Cantonese culinary culture Huang Jinghui, and the pioneer of modern Chinese cuisine Liu Hesen (hereafter called Jason) – three chefs moving between theatre acts, each carrying a touch of their hometown backdrop, whether childhood taste memories or skills learned in their youth, shining like stars on screen and at the table. In fact, looking at feasts everywhere, what has been divided must soon unite; exchange and fusion are always the main theme. Rushing at year’s end, multiple flavors gather in steamy warmth, a final summary on the tongue that still lingers now.
🎡 A Stroll, a Dream
Martell Gastronomy Theatre has two screening halls. With wristband on, today I’m Miss Blue. Stepping into the nature‑filled “Vineyard”, the “Origin” act officially begins. Here, map outlines are used for zone‑based visual design, representing the distinct terroirs of different Crus, as a tribute to Martell’s birthplace, the “dream messenger”, the Cognac region.
Four appetizers echo the distinct aromas of the Single Cru series Cognacs, reflecting the unique styles of different Crus. What was just seen on screen instantly takes on a concrete flavor profile on the palate.
Jason, who drifted north for six years and rose to become the youngest Michelin chef, grew up in a veterans’ village in Taipei. He first entered the kitchen at 14, and at 28 led his restaurant LINGLONG to a Michelin star in the 2022 Beijing guide. I’m so happy I just ate at the Shanghai location, and I heard it’s already impossible to book... This time, he uses winter bamboo shoots and porcini mushrooms to express his view on the freshness of ingredients, layering Eastern flavors onto Western forms, awakening the taste buds with mountain and field notes.
“I do Modern Chinese Cuisine. The unique taste characteristic of Chinese food is ‘freshness’, and its sources are multi‑dimensional.” I heard that Liu Hesen is building his own “umami laboratory”, even using a microscope to observe the extension and changes of taste. This data‑driven deconstruction of flavor gives him a joy in cooking akin to a chemistry experiment.
Bamboo Rhyme Smoked Shoots: Fresh Winter Bamboo Shoots, Meringue, Smoked Bamboo Shoots
WINTER BAMBOO SHOOTS
MERINGUE
SMOKED BAMBOO SHOOTS
Martell Single Cru Exploration‑level Fins Bois Cognac, blessed by the red clay and limestone soils of Fins Bois, boasts rich fruit aromas, full of vitality and fragrance. Paired with this simple freshness from the mountains, the palate feels light.
“I have been constantly understanding how different regions express the natural aromas of ingredients. Bamboo shoots have their own delicate sweetness, mushrooms their own umami fragrance. Every ingredient is unique.” Liu Hesen’s dishes are highly original.
Boletus Mushroom, Yunnan Coffee Beans, Mushroom Soup
BOLETUS MUSHROOM
YUNNAN COFFEE BEANS
MUSHROOMS SOUP
As the name suggests, it resembles snowflakes fluttering down. It blends three ingredients – porcini, chocolate, and coffee – using roasting techniques to bring out rich aromas and abundant oiliness. The mountain mushroom dances lightly in the mouth with buttery fragrance, leaving a long aftertaste. Paired with “Exploration‑level Petite Champagne Cognac”, it prolongs the feeling of fluid vitality.
The Exploration‑level Petite Champagne Cognac comes from the Petite Champagne Cru, with its diverse landscapes and vast flat plains. Abundant rivers, streams, and water sources, along with grey‑white soils, give its eaux‑de‑vie a more distinct layered structure.
Next, Master Huang Jinghui takes over. When he first started, his mentor taught him to follow tradition and respect ingredients. As he traveled the world, finding the right ingredients became like a treasure hunt.
The i‑person sums up profoundly: “Guangzhou’s local fresh ingredients are the inspirational backdrop for Master Huang Jinghui. Great taste is found in simplicity. The process of infusing creativity into Cantonese cuisine must also carry on the essence, seeking the flavor’s root, blending to bring forth the new.”
The e‑person eats and drinks at leisure: “It’s still the well‑honed Cantonese cuisine that’s got enough flavor for Cognac!”
Dongshan Island Squid, Indigenous Pork, Fresh Shrimp, Shiitake Mushrooms
DONGSHAN ISLAND SQUID
INDIGENOUS PORK
FRESH SHRIMP
SHITAKE MUSHROOMS
His sea‑rhythm fresh squid rolls use Dongshan Island squid, black truffles, radish, and other fresh ingredients to draw out the clear freshness at the heart of Cantonese flavor, paired with the distinct floral and candied fruit notes of Martell Single Cru Exploration‑level Borderies Cognac, leaving a lingering satisfaction. As the smallest Cru, Borderies’ rolling hills and lush forests nurture its signature Cognac character.
Black Truffle, Radish, Puff Pastry
BLACK TRUFFLE
RADISH
PUFF PASTRY
Paired with Martell Single Cru Exploration‑level Cognac, “Cantonese cuisine is actually very inclusive; choosing ingredients knows no borders. We also bring our own understanding and inspiration to the creative process, making different works. Just as Cognacs from different Crus each have their own flavors, it’s actually a match made in heaven with cooking.”
Master Huang Jinghui, who has been cooking for 30 years and earned two Michelin stars for five consecutive years, always says, “For a chef, there is always the next dish, and in life, always the next peak to climb.” In his view, as a chef, to embrace all, keep learning, exploring, and adapting to changing tastes through different eras, and to keep improving – that is the highest realization of self‑worth.
Then we move to the open kitchen, where two chefs continue with creative inspirations of “new takes on old dishes” and “hidden depths within”, sharing their exploration of culinary craftsmanship.
Master Huang Jinghui, widely recognized in the industry as the “leading inheritor of Cantonese culinary culture”, goes into e‑person mode again. Only after he warmly greets all his fans do I get a precious chance to chat.
“Master Shen said I left out one thing. I asked what, and he said MSG.” I thought, this might be the “ultimate dig” about umami. After a hearty laugh, the broth is boiling just right, and Master Huang promptly pours it into the vessel, not forgetting to tell me, “Stir it, and eat the geoduck first.”
Geoduck, Premium Nori Seaweed, Broth
GEODUCK
PREMIUM NORI SEAWEED
Beside it, a hot Cordon Bleu Cognac with two plums. Seeing my surprise, he adds, “You can put them into the Cognac and drink together, or eat them separately.” This upgraded version of homestyle seaweed soup is umami to the extreme; the seared geoduck gives the soup both freshness and fragrance.
“Every dish undergoes several fine adjustments before being presented to diners. New‑style Cantonese cuisine must retain the traditional flavors diners anticipate, yet also not miss the chef’s artisanal creativity in reconstruction. That’s the art of giving old dishes new life.” At that moment, Master Huang, speaking earnestly, had surely blended and reorganized traditional Cantonese cuisine into fresh vitality.
When it’s i‑person Chef Liu Hesen’s turn, I have to straightforwardly ask about his pairing rationale.
Muscovy Duck Broth, Muscovy Duck Filling, Fuzhou‑style Wonton Wrapper
MUSCOVY DUCK BROTH
MUSCOVY DUCK MEAT FILLING
FUZHOU·STYLE WONTON WRAPPER
Exceptionally savory, with a shape reminiscent of Italian ravioli, it is presented in the traditional Fujian rouyan style, hiding the Muscovy duck filling inside the wonton skin – a recombination of East and West. “To me, the higher alcohol spiciness of Cordon Bleu, once volatilized, its creamier aroma sufficiently balances the fat from the cured pork rendered earlier.”
The Martell swallow logo is frozen into ice cubes, forming an ice‑drip setup with the Cordon Bleu in the glass below, so I don’t have to worry about the drink getting watered down! The duck consommé is the crowning touch – high‑temperature steaming extracts the essence of the duck, paired with the round and elegant Martell, hugely enhancing the umami.
The French culinary aesthetics titan “with a tiger in his heart, delicately sniffing roses” – Alexandre MAZZIA – makes a remarkable entrance. The fact that he thought of using colorful flower petals as a natural hand‑washing fragrance shows he’s no ordinary person. I felt as if I were in a Marseille Alice in Wonderland, utterly spellbound.
The “Time” act witnesses his journey from a basketball‑loving youth to picking up the dream of becoming a chef, from a cooking apprentice to a three‑Michelin‑starred master.
Smoked Milk, Vegetal Crispbread, Smoked Eel with Intense Dark Chocolate
SMOKED MILK
VEGETAL CRISPBREAD
SMOKED EEL AND DARK CHOCOLATE
Mixed Shellfish, Bluefish, Eggnog, Green Juice
SHELLFISH
BLUE FISH
EGG NOG
GREEN JUICE
Langoustine, Cassava, Seaweed Popcorn
LANGOUSTINE
CASSAVA
SEAWEED POPCORN
I really like the “De Yi” cup holding the Cordon Bleu; as the Cordon Bleu enters, it further highlights the beauty of the seafood. Alexandre MAZZIA is highly skilled at studying how ingredients react differently to environmental changes, using diverse seasonings to alter a dish’s texture and mouthfeel. The three dishes this time – Fish Leaping in Millefeuille, Seafood Reflecting Lotus, Layered Flavors Dancing Dragon – use fresh seafood like eel, mixed shellfish, bluefish, langoustine, and cod as a base, transporting the palate to the seaside of Congo from his childhood memories.
As we sip, my neighbor Michelle and I watch the glasses change from mini cups to wine glasses.
At that moment, the i‑person might ponder for a while and write: “Drink from a large glass to mobilize the olfactory sense with complex aromas, paired with Cordon Bleu’s unique violet fragrance, bursting forth with multi‑layered rich mouthfeel.”
The e‑person probably puts it bluntly: “Bite into seafood, drink boldly – that’s the way to go!”
Cod, Tapioca Pearls, Gravy
TAPIOCA
GRAVY JUICE
This final dish, Pearl Cod Fillet, brings out Martell’s light floral and fruity notes to the fullest. The unique cooking method preserves the cod’s tenderness, melting in the mouth with fresh, fragrant, smooth delicacy. It’s paired with a rich meat‑cream sauce, accented by the freshness of lemon verbena and pungent onion, and finished with a Japanese fish sauce seasoning – fresh and full of substance.
As the final act “New Creation” begins, the theatre reaches its climax. The most eye‑catching XXO makes its entrance, and all the gourmands’ hearts boil with excitement. The Baccarat crystal Harcourt Eve glass – I’m using it for the first time – paired with XXO, this moment is complete.
Squab, Chestnut Mushroom, Onion Purée
OYSTER MUSHROOM
ONION PUREE
Jason breaks convention with his charcoal‑seared crispy‑skinned squab, continuing to demonstrate a “Chinese essence, Western application” culinary approach. “I wanted to attempt a bold pairing with Martell XXO, presenting a complex and intense savory flavor. The first thing that came to mind was squab, with its stronger meaty taste.”
“The fried crispy‑skinned squab is then charcoal‑grilled, infused with a French‑style sauce, so the subtle smokiness prolongs the entire taste experience, making the flavor layers more rounded and full. Chinese frying meets American barbecue, and the dual techniques bring a distinctive flavor that complements XXO perfectly.”
5A Marbled Wagyu Beef, Sweet and Sour Sauce, Green Peas, Fruit Lemon
5A MARBLED WAGYU BEEF
SWEET AND SOUR SAUCE
GREEN PEAS
FRUIT LEMON
Master Huang Jinghui takes inspiration from the classic Cantonese sweet‑and‑sour pork, using 5A marbled Wagyu to create a new Cantonese‑style Wagyu. The idea of adding Cognac to the traditional sauce amazed me.
Matcha, Persimmon, Guava
MATCHA
PERSIMMON
Alexandre MAZZIA blazes a new trail, using persimmon, guava and other ingredients to craft a “Summer Fruit Light Rhythm”, staging a symphony on the palate.
After tasting the final three dishes, the palate is like the fireworks accompanying a New Year’s Eve dinner, blooming in sequence – rich, brilliant, jubilant. I thought, this is truly an incomparable Chinese New Year.
This edition of Martell’s “Gastronomy Theatre” also welcomes a new member of the Cognac family – the Single Cru series. Launched in 2023, this series continues to use its unique distillation method to express the elegance of terroir. Among the 12,000 eaux‑de‑vie in Martell’s cellar, only about 4% are used for the Single Cru blends, representing less than 1% of Martell’s annual Cognac production.
Chef Guangtan, his face flushed from drinking, said: “Overall, umami‑rich ingredients pair well with Cognac. The langoustine, dark chocolate with smoked eel we ate today, plus Chef Liu Hesen’s chocolate porcini and squab – all very successful pairings. Everyone knows Cognac goes well with chocolate, but this time Chef MAZZIA didn’t go the traditional route; instead, he paired with a refreshing fruit‑based dessert, and it worked wonderfully. This process of constant experimentation and exploration is truly fascinating.”
When talking about the legendary three‑Michelin‑starred chef Alexandre MAZZIA, Guangtan said one word: “personality”. The after‑dinner chat that night further confirmed to Guangtan that the man is like his cuisine: “His temperament is very open. Although it’s not traditional French cuisine, you can feel the chef’s personality and story through the dishes. What’s called a dish is actually more like a set menu, with a strong sense of design. It’s often four or five different small plates, eaten in a fixed order, with each small dish clearly linked to the next. The flavors are distinct yet harmonious – a very unique experience. He uses many unique ingredients and spices, the seasoning is precise but the taste is still traditional. The richly colored visuals are an organic blend with the Marseille style.”
I asked Guangtan to pick the dish that impressed him the most, but the i‑person found it hard: “It’s really hard to say which one I liked best.” In the end, he said it was his compatriot’s first smoked milk foam. “The hazelnuts and fish roe were absolutely amazing – a slowly building surprise. The langoustine was also perfect, fresh and juicy, and the cooking method enhanced its natural sweetness. What do you think?”
Looking at this i‑person even more i than me, I instantly switched to e‑person mode: “Yes, though I kind of forgot a bit. I hope I can have the whole menu again sometime.” 🤭
Do you like Cognac?
“He who needs nothing is most like the gods.”
— Socrates
Food Bless You!
Consultant for "Flavors of the World"
Host of "Tables of the Gods"
Producer of "Wild Eats China" and "The World Is Worth 369"
