When Visiting Jiangnan, Beyond Zhouzhuang and Xitang, Don’t Miss This Place Where You Can Have It All to Yourself

— Happiness is: I've grown up, you're not yet old, and I have the means to repay you. Always traveling, I rarely have time for my family and feel guilty. So I took two days off for a family getaway. Not wanting to travel far, we chose the Shajiabang Scenic Area in Changshu.

Traveling in your own city feels great too. My parents said they hadn't been to Shajiabang for a long time and didn't even know there were guesthouses inside.

Two days and one night. When we left, the three of us took a photo together on the tree-lined path in the evening. My mother, who still treats me like a child, and my father, who rarely smiles, in the summer chorus of cicadas.

When the wind stirs the reed marshes, Shajiabang captures your heart.

Shajiabang Reed Marshes Scenic Area is in Changshu, Jiangsu Province, about a 1-hour drive from Shanghai. Since July 1, 2020, the city's intercity express line has made it even more convenient to reach.

Covering over 6000 mu (about 400 hectares), it's a national patriotic education base, one of the 100 classic red tourism sites in China, a national 5A-level tourist area, and one of the largest ecological wetlands in East China.

This is a land of heroes, with vast reed beds that carry the spirit of the region. Its unique wetland culture is like a jade hidden beneath the lush reeds of Jiangnan. Today, it's also a resort destination.

Local delicacies, ancient water town streets, boutique guesthouses, reed maze... The national 5A tourist attraction—Shajiabang Scenic Area—is no longer what it used to be.

How to make the most of Shajiabang in two days and one night? Let me show you.

I booked a guesthouse inside Shajiabang in advance: Jiangnan Luhuawan (Jiangnan Reed Flower Bay). After arriving in the afternoon, I checked in at the Luyi Resort Hotel at the entrance, and an electric cart took us to the guesthouse inside.

Peak season tickets (June–November) for Shajiabang cost 100 yuan, and off-peak (December–May) 70 yuan. The electric cart inside costs 25 yuan per person. But if you stay at a guesthouse within the scenic area, both the entrance fee and cart transfers are free.

The most beautiful thing about Shajiabang is its reed marshes.

The one experience you cannot miss at Shajiabang is taking a hand-rowed boat through the reed maze.

On the dock, rows of hand-rowed boats are adorned with blue calico, the iconic fabric of Jiangnan water towns, contrasting with the emerald lake.

A boat ride costs 40 yuan per person, great value. The boatwomen wear bamboo hats and blue calico outfits, full of Jiangnan charm.

Mom and Dad got on the boat and chatted with the boatwoman about daily life. The weather was fine that day, but it would be even more atmospheric on a rainy day.

The boat swayed gently. The boatwoman also sang local folk songs in dialect, and it felt wonderful.

The boat passed under countless bridges, people on the bridges watching us, and us watching them from the boat—each becoming a view for the other.

The guesthouse we stayed at that night, Jiangnan Luhuawan, is right across from Hengjing Old Street, just cross a bridge to reach it.

Staying in a guesthouse inside the scenic area offers a wonderful experience: after dusk when tourists have left, you get the luxury of having the area all to yourself.

Our family stayed at Luhua Bieyuan (Reed Flower Villa) that night, which has four independent villas, offering great privacy and no disturbance.

Our villa was called 'Bieyuan', with three rooms: 8211, 8212, 8213.

What I loved most was the large courtyard full of greenery, all for our own use. A stroll in the courtyard, the summer green, lifted our spirits.

That evening, as the heat faded, we chatted, drank tea, read, and daydreamed in the courtyard. We didn't want to go anywhere, just to stay huddled there.

For many travelers nowadays, the guesthouse itself is the destination. Finding a cozy guesthouse to hole up in makes a perfect holiday.

Let me show you around the interior. There's a huge living room with a high sloped ceiling, very spacious.

Mom and Dad watched TV in the living room, looking so harmonious. When I took a photo, Dad, usually so serious, joked: 'Should we put our arms around each other?'

A staircase in the hallway leads to the attic, a lounge area.

This is the first room, a master bedroom. Floor-to-ceiling windows on two sides bring in plenty of light. Outside, everything is a pleasant green.

The wallpaper gives off a strong tropical vibe.

The ceiling is also high and sloped, creating a great sense of space.

I loved this rocking chair by the bed, very solid and comfortable. I curled up in it to read for a long time.

The master bedroom's bathtub is by the window, with a separate wet and dry bathroom. The mirror has a unique shape.

This was probably the first time my mom stayed in such a nice room, so I took a photo for her to remember.

This is the second room, where my parents stayed that night. It's also super large. The wallpaper style is the same, just with slightly different color schemes.

The soft furnishings are exquisite, full of design.

This is the third room, the smallest one, but still quite spacious.

The wallpaper makes you feel like you're in a tropical jungle.

Do you, like me, love this decor style? I had seen a friend stay in this villa before and was instantly wowed; I'd been longing for it ever since. Finally stayed here, though it was a bit pricey.

My parents have worked hard all their lives; it's time for them to enjoy a little. Splurge once in a while!

Before dinner, we walked from Jiangnan Luhuawan to Hengjing Old Street in the Shajiabang scenic area—very close.

In late July, the Shajiabang scenic area was full of lotus ponds. I loved the summer lotus ponds and this evening stroll.

I took Mom for a walk on Fragrance Island not far away, but unfortunately the fields of purple verbena were already past their peak.

Hengjing Old Street was once a film set, and the buildings were preserved. Diao Family Courtyard, Chunlai Teahouse, a blacksmith shop, dyehouse, cafés, snack bars, bubble tea shops... it has everything.

In the evening on Hengjing Old Street, the tourists had all left, and the quiet atmosphere was delightful.

At Chunlai Pier, the water was calm. Seeing the reflection of white walls and gray tiles, how could one not think of Jiangnan?

On Hengjing Old Street, they sell a local specialty: Shajiabang braised chicken. You must try one; it tastes fantastic.

Braised chicken is 45 yuan each, braised goose 70 yuan. Not expensive, we bought a goose for a late-night snack.

You could also arrive at Hengjing Old Street earlier and have a cup of tea at Chunlai Teahouse.

'Build up the seven-star stove, boil water with a copper kettle from three rivers; set out the Eight Immortals table to welcome guests from all directions.' This excerpt from the Peking opera Shajiabang is well remembered by the older generation.

Diao Deyi, Sister Aqing... these vivid characters remind us that today's happiness didn't come easily.

In the evening, you can do as I did: order a few dishes at the Jiangnan Luhuawan restaurant. Across from the restaurant, the lotus pond at night is mesmerizing.

Our family chatted about daily life, my childhood, and past events, with no one to disturb us. It had been so long since I'd spent such time talking with my parents.

The food at Jiangnan Luhuawan restaurant is typical of Jiangnan water towns: light and fresh, all very tasty.

We also had lunch there the next day.

Yangcheng Lake hairy crabs aren't in season yet, but the seasonal dish of 'June Yellow' crab steamed with edamame looked very appetizing, didn't it?

That evening, after dinner, we returned to Luhua Bieyuan. The sky was deep blue and quiet. A gentle breeze, frogs croaking, cicadas buzzing... it reminded me of my childhood in the countryside.

The sculpture at the villa entrance looked beautiful under the lights. At first I thought it was a deer, but looking closer I think it's an ox?

At night I soaked in the bathtub, and late at night curled up on the sofa in my pajamas to chat with Mom until late. The person who loves me most in the world—I caused her so much worry in the past. Now that I'm grown up, I can afford to take them traveling.

The next day we slept in, and after breakfast at 11:00 sharp I took my parents to see the live performance 'Beacon Fire in the Reed Marshes' at the Reed Marshes Theater.

This live show is really worth watching. Humorous, entertaining and educational, suitable for all ages.

Mom and Dad watched with great interest, laughing along. For their generation, the revolutionary opera about Shajiabang brings back many memories.

Companionship is the longest confession of love.

This two-day, one-night getaway to Shajiabang was truly pleasant. I told myself to take them to see the outside world as much as I can, while they're still young.

Tip: When going to Shajiabang Scenic Area, make sure to tell the driver it's the scenic area, not Shajiabang Town. The town is 5 km east of the scenic area entrance.

When staying at Jiangnan Luhuawan, at checkout you can ask the front desk to call an electric cart to take you to the scenic area parking lot for free.