Jiangnan's Off-the-Beaten-Path Attractions ~ Qiandao Lake ~ Qianduo Scenic Area ~ Lizhong Water Forest ~ Huaxi Village ~ Lingering Garden ~ Qili Shantang ~ Wuzhen
2020 ~ an extraordinary year. Besides the changes the novel coronavirus brought to mankind, the lunar Mid-Autumn Festival and the solar National Day also coincided without discussion on the same day (said to be a once-in-19-years occurrence).
With the virus still not eradicated and many unknowns about it, during the short holiday trip, it was safest to forgo the free highway and travel during off-peak times. During this period there was a lot of rain, and the weather for the routes we were interested in was not favorable, except for Jiangsu-Zhejiang area which had clear skies. Heading to Jiangnan became our only choice.
We have been to the Jiangnan area many times, having visited all the famous big attractions. Off-the-beaten-path spots were our target. This trip was the farthest for us in the post-pandemic period. To protect ourselves effectively, we used a combination of 'flight + self-drive', booking round-trip flights online and arranging car rental in advance.
Itinerary: Sep 24 ~ Sep 28
D1. Xi'an - Hangzhou, visit Qiandao Lake, overnight at Qiandao Lake;
D2. Morning visit Qiandao Lake, at noon drive from Qiandao Lake to Xinghua, overnight at Xinghua;
D3. Xinghua - Suzhou. Morning visit Qianduo Scenic Area - Water Forest, afternoon visit Huaxi Village, evening visit Lingering Garden in Suzhou, overnight in Suzhou;
D4. Suzhou - Wuzhen, visit Wuzhen East Gate - World Internet Conference site - West Gate, overnight at Wuzhen West Gate;
D5. Wuzhen - Hangzhou - Xi'an
Route: Chun'an Qiandao Lake - Xinghua Qianduo Scenic Area - Xinghua Lizhong Water Forest - Wuxi Huaxi Village - Suzhou Lingering Garden - Wuzhen, total 6 scenic spots. Approximately 1200 km overall.
Day 1: Xi'an - Hangzhou - Chun'an
Flight: Xi'an - Hangzhou 09:25~11:50
Drive: Hangzhou Xiaoshan International Airport - Chun'an Qiandao Lake Scenic Area, 3 hours 14 minutes, 196.4 km, Changshen Expressway, Baixiao Line.
Attraction: Qiandao Lake
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At 11:40 am (10 minutes early), the plane landed on time. We picked up the car at the Shenzhou Car Rental airport office.
On the way, we had lunch at the Hangzhou Jiande expressway service area (five-star).
In the service area square, a suspended kettle poured heavenly blessings upon visitors.
At 4:30 pm, we arrived at Qiandao Lake Scenic Area.
There are many lakeside hotels. We found a great-looking hotel on the Pailing Peninsula ~ Qiandao Lake Media Junlan Resort Hotel. The hotel is built by the lake, adjacent to the Qiandao Lake tourist pier, facing the central lake area, with Menggutang Cultural Park and Xiushui Street Theme Park to the east. You can enjoy the beautiful scenery of Qiandao Lake's central area without leaving the hotel. We booked a garden-view room (lake-view rooms had no good positions left), and the hotel gave us two mountain bike riding vouchers for a loop around the lake.
After check-in, it was nearly dusk. Looking at the tourist map, we planned to drive counterclockwise around the lake today, and tomorrow cycle clockwise along the 'Lake Ring Greenway'.
We passed Xiushui Street - Tourist Pier - Menggutang Cultural Park - Natural History Museum - Qiandao Lake Food Street - Fish Street - Night Cruise Pier - Riverside Park - Lakeside Park - Xiushui Square - Xiushui Fang - Qiandao Lake Bridge - Headwaters Post Station - Red Leaf Bay Scenic Area. By the time we reached Xiaojinshan Viewing Platform, night had fallen, so we had to return (it gets dark very early here, by 6 pm visibility was very poor).
Dinner at the hotel. It is said that Qiandao Lake fish is the number one freshwater fish brand in China, and fish head dishes are a specialty. But the fish are huge, a portion as big as a washbasin, suitable for four or more people. Two couldn't finish it, so we had to taste Qiandao tofu and Qiandao bamboo shoots instead.
Day 2: Chun'an - Xinghua
Drive: Qiandao Lake Media Junlan Resort Hotel to Xinghua Jinjiang Inn (Yingwu Bridge Branch), 6 hours 56 minutes, 518.2 km, Changshen Expressway, Fuli Expressway.
Attraction: Qiandao Lake
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Early morning, we wanted to shoot the sunrise, but unfortunately the weather wasn't ideal, so we just strolled around the lakefront area of the hotel.
Breakfast was sumptuous.
After breakfast, we took the mountain bikes and cycled along the 15 km lake ring greenway through the natural beauty of Qiandao Lake, embracing the scenery with a cycling spirit.
The greenway is neither too long nor too short, allowing cyclists to feel the scenery as they move.
After over an hour, the weather seemed to clear up a bit, and the best photo opportunity arrived.
Since we had to depart at noon for the next destination, which would take 7 hours, we needed to spare an hour for aerial photography to get a bird's-eye view of Qiandao Lake before leaving. Time seemed tight, so we couldn't cycle to the endpoint ~ Qiandao Lake Cycling Bridge, and reluctantly returned to the hotel.
After finishing the aerial shots, we checked out at the front desk and set off for Xinghua.
Special praise for Jiangsu's expressway service areas. We encountered two service areas along the way, both labeled 'five-star'. They lived up to the name—high quality and clean. We not only had delicious food from the land of fish and rice but also tasted authentic ancient specialty snacks ~ Huangqiao baked cakes and Jiaxing zongzi.
After a tiring journey, we arrived in Xinghua at 8 pm.
Day 3: Xinghua - Suzhou
Drive: Xinghua Jinjiang Inn (Yingwu Bridge Branch) to Suzhou Jinjiang Inn (Suzhou Railway Station Lingering Garden Branch), 4 hours 16 minutes, 212.0 km, Yanjing Expressway, Jinghu Expressway.
Attractions: Xinghua Qianduo Scenic Area - Xinghua Lizhong Water Forest - Wuxi Huaxi Village - Suzhou Lingering Garden
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Morning walk around the hotel, we saw locals washing clothes and rinsing mops in the river.
After breakfast, we checked out and drove off for today's sightseeing.
Leaving Xinghua city center, we soon entered the waterside landscape avenue opened only last year ~ 'Qianduo Scenic Road'. It connects Qianduo rapeseed flower fields, Li Zhong Water Forest Park, Wujindang Wetland, and many villages, spanning 66 km. Along the way, we not only enjoyed delightful scenery but also witnessed unique scenes of fish and shrimp catching, hairy crab farming, and sesame harvesting. The 'Qianduo Scenic Road' was shortlisted for the 2019 'Top Ten Most Beautiful Rural Roads' and was named by the Ministry of Transport as 'the road with the most nostalgia and the most popularity'.
Wujindang is the starting section of the 'Qianduo Scenic Road'. The majestic statues of Yue Fei's army on Wujindang Bridge and the nearby 'Victory' Song Dynasty ancient warship tell the historical legends of Wujindang and showcase the nationally recognized bamboo boat-making craft and wooden boat industry.
Driving on the 'Qianduo Scenic Road', various sculptures and small displays kept catching our eyes, telling wonderful stories of Xinghua to passersby.
A large bronze crab covered with a stainless steel fishing net, symbolizing 'crabs bringing wealth to the world', vividly showcases Xinghua's large, delicious crabs with red roe and full meat.
Along the road, there are also agricultural sculptures, lotus sculptures, water town windmills, and other characteristic landscapes, highlighting Xinghua's long-standing culture and excellent ecology.
For the first time in my life, I encountered sesame plants in their full fruiting stage, appearing before me as herbaceous plants.
The small, fragrant sesame actually grows like this. In surprise, I borrowed a sickle from a local and harvested some.
Xinghua is crisscrossed with rivers and lakes, a producer of various aquatic products. During the fish and crab catching season, busy fishermen are everywhere.
After driving over ten kilometers, we arrived at Qianduo Scenic Area. The 'Duotian' (raised field) natural landscape formed 750 years ago. In this waterlogged land lacking soil, ancestors dug earth from underwater and piled it up square by square into stacks, creating thousands of raised fields. The most beautiful season is March and April when rapeseed flowers bloom; in golden autumn, it should be when marigolds cover the fields—'view rapeseed in spring, admire chrysanthemums in autumn.' This year, the rapeseed flowering period coincided with the critical phase of epidemic prevention and control. The scenic area mainly received individual tourists from the province and surrounding areas. Because not many flower viewers came, farmers didn't plant lotus or marigolds. The scenic area wasn't officially open, but the gate wasn't closed. Entering the gate, it felt like entering a no-man's-land. The once bustling huge scenic area became our own domain. A desolate scene appeared before us, which we had expected. No regrets—coming to Qianduo Scenic Area was mainly to witness a special form of agricultural field—the 'Duotian' distinctive landform. Of course, flower seas would have been more beautiful.
After entering the scenic area gate, we crossed the bridge over the 'Qianduo Scenic Road' and reached the viewing platform.
Looking around, on one side were prosperous villages and towns, and on the other were the world-renowned Qianduo raised fields.
Descending from the platform, we strolled among the raised fields, stepping on the artificially piled land.
Along the 'Qianduo Scenic Road', it's less than ten kilometers from Qianduo Scenic Area to Lizhong Water Forest Park.
The Water Forest Scenic Area has Jiangsu's largest artificial wetland ecological forest, mainly metasequoia, covering 2000 mu. It uses a three-dimensional model of forest stacks, ditches, and fish, creating a water-town landscape where 'there is water in the forest, there are birds in the forest'—truly unique.
Not far away is the inlet of the water forest's circulating water system.
Staff were busy at work.
Wooden boardwalks, wooden tables and chairs, stone bridges, pavilions... various structures dot the green trees and blue water.
Crisscrossing waterways divide the raised fields like a chessboard. The rivers on the grid lines form shaded 'water alleys in the forest'.
Various styles of small bridges cross every waterway.
The roots of the bald cypresses growing along the river (called 'aerial roots') protrude from the water in bizarre and varied shapes.
Green algae naturally growing on the water's surface dye the river a vivid green.
The boundary between algae-covered green water and clear water.
Stepping into 'Suzhong Little Jiuzhaigou', one feels as if entering a fantastic world: rows upon rows of bald cypresses grow in clear water, tree and water in one, reflections dancing, light and shadow shifting. Wooden boardwalks wind into quiet seclusion.
The bald cypresses each have their own posture.
Photography enthusiasts also strike various poses to capture precious scenes.
Exiting 'Suzhong Little Jiuzhaigou', we came to the 'Lotus Pond'.
After two short hours, we had breathed in plenty of negative oxygen ions, feasted our eyes on the beauty of the water forest, and truly experienced the leisurely pleasure of 'wild ducks napping on the bank have such leisure; old trees in bloom have no ugly branches.' Then we drove toward Suzhou, and on the way, we took a look at the nationally renowned 'Number One Village Under Heaven' ~ Huaxi Village.
Driving 176 km, we arrived at this mysterious village we were 'especially eager to see with our own eyes' at 2 pm.
It is said that in 2001, through a 'One Division, Five Unifications' approach, Huaxi helped and led 20 surrounding villages to develop together, creating a large Huaxi covering 35 square kilometers with a population of 30,340. It became a village with 'green hills, a lake surface, an expressway, waterways, a helicopter airport, and even a five-star luxury hotel.' In 2012, the village achieved an annual economic income of 52.5 billion yuan, each villager had savings of at least 6-20 million yuan, and every household lived in a villa—truly eye-catching!
Iconic architecture ~ Huaxi Golden Pagoda Group
Huaxi Longxi International Hotel
Huaxi Happiness Garden villa area
After a cursory look, we got on the highway to Suzhou and arrived over an hour later. We originally wanted to go to the Humble Administrator's Garden but couldn't find the entrance after nearly an hour because surrounding roads were under renovation. It was already past 4 pm, so we thought of Lingering Garden, which closes at 5:30. Fortunately, Lingering Garden is not large, so we had enough time to enjoy it leisurely.
Lingering Garden is a large classical private garden in China, famous for its exquisite architectural layout and numerous rare stones. It is ranked among China's Four Great Gardens, along with Suzhou's Humble Administrator's Garden, Beijing's Summer Palace, and Chengde's Mountain Resort.
When the closing bell rang, we had walked one and a half rounds around the garden and hadn't missed any significant sight.
All day on the road, without stopping, from Xinghua through Wuxi to Suzhou. Though the distance wasn't long, we crossed three cities and visited many attractions (lunch at a five-star expressway service area, delicious and clean). At the end of the day, we desperately wanted a comfortable hotel to rest. We found Jinjiang Inn Lingering Garden branch, conveniently located just a few minutes' walk from Lingering Garden.
Day 4: Suzhou - Tongxiang
Drive: Suzhou Jinjiang Inn (Suzhou Railway Station Lingering Garden Branch) to Wuzhen Scenic Area, 1 hour 30 minutes, 76.1 km.
Attractions: Suzhou Qili Shantang - Wuzhen East Gate - World Internet Conference site - Wuzhen West Gate
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On a morning walk, we accidentally discovered the nearby Chinese historical and cultural block ~ Qili Shantang. We luckily added another attraction, and sunrise was the perfect time for photography. It was still early, so we could enter without a ticket.
When the poet Bai Juyi was governor of Suzhou, to facilitate water and land transport, he dug the Shantang River running west from Tiger Hill to east to Changmen Gate. The ancient street built along the river is called Shantang Street, also known as 'Bai Causeway', about seven li long, hence the name 'Qili Shantang'. Since ancient times, Shantang Street has been known as 'the number one street of Gusu', with a folk song singing: 'Heaven above, Suzhou and Hangzhou below. Hangzhou has West Lake, Suzhou has Shantang.'
On the way back to the hotel from Shantang Street, we passed 'Suzhou Legal Park'. The outer 'Chinese Legal History Wall' was particularly eye-catching. Panels embedded in the wall systematically introduced China's laws through the dynasties, attracting visitors and passersby to stop and look.
We departed from Suzhou at 9 am and arrived at Wuzhen Scenic Area around 10 am. It is said that when visiting Wuzhen, one must stay overnight at West Gate to enjoy the night view. So, at the West Gate service center, we chose a homestay and bought a 'East Gate - West Gate accommodation combo ticket' (this ticket allows entry to both East and West Gates before 3 pm the next day). We allocated our time wisely: East Gate first, then the World Internet Conference site, then West Gate.
A famous Chinese historical and cultural town ~ Wuzhen has over 7,000 years of civilization and 1,300 years of town history, located at the junction of two provinces, three prefectures, and seven counties. The town is crisscrossed with waterways belonging to the Taihu Lake basin, a typical ancient water town of Jiangnan, known as 'the land of fish and rice, the seat of silk', and lauded as 'China's last waterside residence'.
The highlight of Wuzhen East Gate scenic area is its original, simple water-town features and profound cultural heritage, showcasing its unique charm.
Here, rustic residential houses stretch along the riverbanks, featuring antique blue tiles and white walls. Bustling shops and inns line the streets, one after another, lively and prosperous. Many locals still live here, and the leisurely, tranquil life of a water town is palpable. Much of the TV drama '似水年华' was filmed in Wuzhen's East Gate. Many cultural relics are also preserved within the scenic area.
During the Southern Song dynasty, to keep fit and ensure local safety, people had the custom of practicing martial arts on boats, giving rise to 'quan chuan' (martial arts boats).
Can you tell that the young shop assistant wearing a mask and grinding medicinal incense at the shop front is a robot?
Walking through the ancient water alleys and streets of Wuzhen West Gate felt like traveling back through dynasties.
Lizhi Academy is a primary school where Mr. Mao Dun studied as a child.
The High-Pole Boat, also known as the Mark Pole Boat and commonly called the 'Silkworm Flower Boat'. Every Qingming Festival, in the mulberry-growing and silkworm-raising areas around Wuzhen, a traditional cultural activity is held to pray for a good cocoon harvest: a giant stone mortar is placed in the center of a large boat, and a carefully selected, very flexible, huge bamboo pole (called 'silkworm flower bamboo') is inserted. A farmer dressed in white climbs to the top of the pole, symbolizing a silkworm, and performs various thrilling stunts.
Lunch at 'Hanlin Mansion' in East Gate, enjoying local specialties.
Steamed Taihu White Fish ~ This dish uses wild white fish from Taihu Lake, with fine, tender texture and delicious soup. Dingsheng Cake ~ Since ancient times, Wuzhen has honored scholarship; when scholars took the imperial exam, relatives and friends would make several steamers of sweet, glutinous Dingsheng Cake to send them off, expressing good wishes for success.
After feasting our eyes and bellies at East Gate, we drove to the 'World Internet Conference site'.
Coincidentally, the venue was under renovation and upgrade, so the whole area was not open to the public. We could only hastily take a few photos from behind the buildings.
Having come all this way to Wuzhen, we wanted to see the venue of this global internet event that builds an international platform connecting China and the world. Disappointment and reluctance drove us to drive around the venue, find the best spot, launch a drone, and fly over the fence for aerial photography. The closure couldn't block our view; from the air, a panoramic view unfolded.
At 2 pm we arrived at the West Gate scenic area.
Wuzhen West Gate is adjacent to the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal, with the highest density of waterways and stone bridges among all ancient towns in China.
West Gate is mainly for tourism and leisure, so tourist services are very mature, providing seamless one-stop service.
We parked the car at the outside parking lot and handed luggage to the luggage service, who would deliver it directly to our hotel or homestay. We could then enter the scenic area lightly, walking, taking a shuttle bus, or rocking on a black-awning boat.
Among the many national flags, we spotted the Chinese flag.
The first thing we saw upon entering the scenic area was the elegant cultural landmark ~ Wuzhen Grand Theatre, which showcases West Gate's 'modern Jiangnan water town' aspect.
Mu Xin Art Museum ~ displaying the lifelong works of Mr. Mu Xin.
In stark contrast to modernity, West Gate retains the Jiangnan ancient town style where 'clear water flows through the town, every house is nestled by the river, houses float on water, and water flows under the houses.'
Grass and Wood Natural Dye Workshop
Waterways crisscross, bridges densely cover, streets are right by the water.
Beautifully scattered old residences
High walls, narrow lanes, old bluestone slab roads.
The antique Zhaoming Academy ~ the study place of Crown Prince Zhaoming of the Southern Liang dynasty.
Leaning on the railing, with a carefree heart, savoring a world-without-strife tranquility.
Secluded water alleys, quaint black-awning boats.
Xi Qing Hall ~ traditional wedding hall of Wuzhen
Three-Inch Golden Lotus Museum ~ a museum on foot-binding, displaying a rare and cruel custom to the world, telling the story of the twisted physical and mental suffering of ancient women.
Yuelao Temple ~ a place for lovers to make wishes and seek love in Wuzhen
Bailian Pagoda ~ the tallest building in Wuzhen, standing by the ancient canal
Climbing Bailian Pagoda (only three floors open) to overlook Wuzhen
Tongji Bridge of the Bridge-in-Bridge ~ Bridge-in-Bridge consists of two stone arch bridges at right angles to each other. It gets its name because you can see one bridge from the arch of the other. It is one of the most beautiful ancient bridges in Wuzhen.
Wenchang Pavilion ~ a place in Wuzhen dedicated to Wenchang, the God of Literature. In the old days, before every civil examination, scholars would climb the pavilion to pray for success.
General Wu Temple ~ After the An-Shi Rebellion in the Tang Dynasty, General Wuzan died defending Wuzhen, and locals made him their 'guardian deity'.
A themed restaurant with a strong Republic-era style
Morning tea house and water stage
Red koi for viewing
After a big loop around Wuzhen and finishing the daytime sightseeing, we arrived at our homestay. Our luggage had already been delivered to the room. A clean, tidy, warm, and down-to-earth homestay sitting by the water.
This was the guest book with many messages; this homestay seemed to have a good reputation.
After a short rest, before it got completely dark, we went to a nearby restaurant for dinner, tasting local delicacies.
After dinner, lights began to twinkle on the waterfront houses. As the lanterns lit up and the sky turned deep blue, we sat by the window in the restaurant, quietly waiting for nightfall, and casually took a few evening photos.
Night slowly unfolded its curtain, all changes silent. Daytime's bustling scene turned into a world of light and shadow at night: lights shimmering, water rippling gently, reflections dancing, light and shadow interweaving.
Strolling through West Gate at night, streets, bridge arches, waterfront homes… countless lights glow, understated yet gorgeous. High-hanging red lanterns, leisurely gliding black-awning boats, reflections of lights on the water… every scene is worth stopping to admire.
After feasting the eyes, we returned to our waterside homestay and quietly slept with the water as our pillow.
Day 5: Tongxiang - Hangzhou - Xi'an
Drive: Wuzhen Scenic Area to Hangzhou Xiaoshan International Airport, 2 hours 9 minutes, 86.3 km, Hurui Line, Donghu Elevated Road (since time was ample, we chose not to take the expressway).
Attraction: Wuzhen West Gate
Flight: Hangzhou - Xinyang - Xi'an 11:40 ~ 15:55
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Early morning, before people awoke, we strolled by the water alleys of Wuzhen, waiting for the sunrise, breathing the fresh, slightly humid air, enjoying the quiet scenery, embracing a different feeling.
Homestay breakfast ~ the hostess personally made us shredded pork and pickled vegetable noodles, fried eggs, and rice cakes. The taste was good, clean and delicious.
Coming to Wuzhen West Gate, finding a homestay, savoring a table of Jiangnan home cooking, enjoying a night of water-pillowed sleep, admiring a night of shimmering lights, breathing in the morning air of a water town, and seeing the sight of the morning water market ~ it really is a great experience.
After breakfast, at 8 o'clock sharp, we took the reserved shuttle bus out of West Gate Scenic Area, picked up the car, refueled, drove, returned the car, boarded the plane… everything was so smooth and effortless. Thus ended our 5-day fast-paced check-in tour of Jiangsu and Zhejiang by car. We tasted the advantage of the 'flight + self-drive' method for limited time, and enjoyed the fun of going wherever we wanted, changing routes freely.
