Night in Zhouzhuang, Kunshan: Ancient Charm Along Flowing Canals, Lantern-lit Lanes, and Gusu’s Half-Town Glow

My earliest impression of Zhouzhuang was the image I held in my mind of the various old towns in Jiangsu and Zhejiang. The water town of Zhouzhuang is no different—waterways, shimmering light, reflections, stone bridges, passing boats, and strolling people. It is ancient, refined, secluded, and beautiful, full of poetic charm.

On this visit to Zhouzhuang, I finally experienced the quiet yet intense night. As dusk gradually fell, Zhouzhuang unfolded like a painting—resembling an ink wash painting yet not quite, at the same time as vivid as an oil painting. My first nocturnal visit to Zhouzhuang happened at night, and the scenery and atmosphere were brimming with the festive cheer of a lantern display, offering a wonderful, dreamlike fairy-tale experience.

At the entrance, along the wide Quanfu South Road, colorful spinning lanterns lined both sides. As night fully arrived, a golden bamboo-woven lantern turned to reveal the Eight Scenic Spots of Zhouzhuang. In front of the ancient Zhenfeng Zeguo Archway, girls in qipao and Hanfu danced joyfully with security guards—a stunning Chinese-style flash mob that instantly whisked you away on a journey through the Tang and Song dynasties.

Enormous oil-paper umbrellas were imbued with the light of night. Strolling beneath the corridor of flowing, radiant oil-paper umbrella lanterns, I looked up and felt the same excitement as when young Zhou Xun watches the lantern fair in the TV series Palace of Desire.

The ancient lanes shimmered with flowing light, the waterfront blazed with fiery trees and silver flowers. The autumn breeze was crisp, the autumn moon bright, and leaves gathered and scattered. Standing on the bridge, I thought: 'When will I see you again? This very night is hard to bear.' In ancient times, stone bridges were not only for crossing the water but were also endowed with a symbolic function—connecting people and carrying the weight of longing, much like the Magpie Bridge where lovers meet or Naihe Bridge in the underworld. 'Long I pine, long I yearn; brief longing stretches on without end. Had I known it would so entangle my heart, I would rather never have met you at first.' Every time I crossed these old bridges, visions of ancient people would flash through my mind, as if they were bustling past, an endless stream of life.

Lanterns were not only scattered on the lawns; some floated quietly on the water, and of course, palace lanterns and colorful lights hid among the trees. Watching the shimmering reflections on the small river, my thoughts would drift into reverie. Perhaps this is what people mean by time travel.

There is a place called Paper Carton King, a creative cultural shop run by a Taiwanese entrepreneur. Everything inside is made of cardboard—it’s fascinating, eco-friendly, and makes use of resources. Parents with children should bring them here; they won't want to leave.

At one end of a small alley, an arched water-curtain projection hides among the greenery. Gorgeous, multicolored flowers descend slowly in the mist from above, complemented by floral projections on the ground. It feels like wandering through an ocean of blossoms—a sense of something rushing towards you yet just out of reach, a different kind of delightful surprise.

Unlike the boisterous nights of Xitang or Wuzhen, there are no thumping bars or noisy music here. As night falls, you can sit on a boat and look at the old houses on both banks, enjoy a quiet drink with friends in a restaurant, or sit in a tea house, leaning on the railing to gaze at the interplay of light and shadow, the bridges and flowing water, and the passing visitors from all over the country.

The stretch from Fuhong Bridge to Zhenfeng Bridge features specially created 'Flower Lane' and 'Rain Lane' creative projections. Under the light and shadow, a profusion of flowers blossoms, scattering starlight upon your shoulders—transform into a flower fairy roaming a sea of blooms. Each projection idea brings a different sensory experience, giving the ancient town a refreshing new feeling.

Handsome men and beautiful women in Republic-era style stroll through the lanes, pausing at every spot to sing a song from that era for visitors. The young women in Republic-era student uniforms dance wonderfully, injecting a relaxed, joyful vitality into the tranquil old town.

Every old town has its special local delicacies, and Zhouzhuang has Wansan’s pig trotter. I tasted it this time: fragrant, crispy, soft, and richly tender without being greasy. A whole table of us cheerfully demolished that knuckle. The local elderly man playing the erhu produced a hauntingly beautiful melody that lingered in the air, perfectly suited to the scene—much more settled and pleasant than those half-baked saxophone-playing aunties in the city. True beauty lies in harmony and naturalness.

Walking along the river, I came to a boardwalk where larger, even more beautiful lanterns floated on the water, merging the sky and water into one hue. This is a must-visit spot and where the lanterns are most concentrated.

Amid exclamations of wonder from visitors, everyone raised their cameras to snap pictures. The colorful lanterns not only adorned the old town’s lanes, large trees, and eaves, but also stretched far into the distance along the river, looking majestic and magnificent.

Light Show over the Pastoral Fields of Xiangcun Qizhuang

Not far from the ancient town of Zhouzhuang lies a village called Xiangcun (Fragrant Village). Here, old white-walled, grey-tiled houses have been transformed into distinctive guesthouses. The fields have become the main stage for a light show.

In Xiangcun Qizhuang, the paths and ridges of the fields are dotted with lanterns shaped like fruits, vegetables, and adorable animals—full of playful charm. From above, the rice paddies lit up by this display spell out its name—Xiangcun.

Under the distant azure sky, golden wheat fields ripple—it’s where you and I once loved. When the breeze carries the scent of harvest to my face, I remember your gentle words that once made my eyes glisten…

Here, there is such a golden wheat field. Whether by day or night, it lets you feel the joy of harvest and the taste of holding your lover’s hand. If you love someone, bring them here for photos.

Xiangcun in Zhouzhuang is a beautiful village, hidden in the fields beyond the ancient town. It is an original eco-village in the Jiangnan water region and a microcosm of the new socialist countryside. In the morning you hear roosters crowing and dogs barking; at night you enjoy the water town’s tranquility. You can pick vegetables by hand, go fishing, or take a boat ride. It is a perfect fusion of man and nature—let go, relax your soul, return to a truly inner peace.

This is a magical place, and watching the spinning windmills can carry you back to the arms of childhood.

The quiet, simple, brilliantly colorful countryside lanterns express the joy of the autumn harvest, the playful innocence of childhood memories, and a portrait of the ever-progressing new village life. The guesthouses here are defined by the decades—’70s, ’80s, ’90s. Staying in the houses your elders experienced, looking at those trendy old objects—isn’t there a special feeling?

Push open the steel-framed windows in ’80s style, gently lie back in the rocking chair, and inhale the fragrance of flowers from outside—this is how life is supposed to be.

With a soft click, press the button, and an old song from the ’80s emerges. Those familiar melodies seem to take you back to those gentle, aimless times when there were few desires, when favorite singers had no scandals, and you didn’t need VIP subscriptions for good songs.

The warm lamp in the guesthouse, a few little wooden deer, a clean tabletop, a tiny doll—you can almost see his loneliness and yearning.

A super-sized rose field lets you bathe in a memory of reds and pinks.

There are flower fields, boardwalks, elevated platforms, and all sorts of down-to-earth corn, sweet potatoes, soybeans, and fruits.

Turn, turn, and happiness will come to my home; little windmill, turn around; don’t be afraid, my flowers; don’t be scared, child, listening to the wind; the moon waxes and wanes in its time; red windmill, don’t worry… This nursery rhyme perhaps explains why people love the swaying of windmills.

Travel tips for Kunshan and Zhouzhuang: The lantern shows in Zhouzhuang ancient town and Xiangcun run from the Mid-Autumn Festival to the end of October—a full month for you to thoroughly feel the beauty of the countryside and the serene, enchanting night of the ancient town.