Watertown 黎里 | Singing Through 江南, Full Moon and Fragrant Osmanthus
When you come to 姑苏, you see houses nestled along the rivers. I am so enchanted by this dream called 江南 that I never want to wake up. 姑苏 黎里, an ancient water town, the autumn wind rises, and the whole town is filled with sweet osmanthus fragrance.
In the beautiful scenery of 江南 lies this unpolished ancient town of 黎里, emerging from poetry. "Thirty miles in 吴江, the place named 梨花村. Like a fisherman, I come to ask the way to the Peach Blossom Land." The poet Yuan Mei fell in love at first sight here. This October, a four-day in-depth music and cultural journey allowed me to experience the new brilliance of this thousand-year-old town. There is little commercial atmosphere here, perfect for slow, immersive travel. During the 2020 "Pear Blossom Cultural Festival", a celebration for both Mid-Autumn Festival and National Day, under the full moon, discussing the past and present, one could feel the carefree spirit of ancient people singing while walking.
The ancient town of 黎里, with a history of over two thousand years, now glows with new vitality and charm. Many cultural and artistic events are held here. The former deep courtyards and long alleys are well preserved, and there are still many original residents in the streets, retaining a lively, down-to-earth atmosphere. Some street-front shops have been transformed into guesthouses, museums, cultural experience centers, and craft workshops. The displays of traditional handicrafts are very attractive, and visitors can have an immersive experience.
As night falls, lights flicker, and a splendid light show quietly unfolds on the whitewashed walls and black-tiled roofs of the old town, with pear blossoms, a full moon, and koi fish—full of 江南 charm. Under the Mid-Autumn full moon, the bustling crowds liven up the ancient town. With flowing waters and riverside houses, the whole town seems like a dreamland; misty clouds become fairyland, water vapor turns into feathers. The singing girl on the sculling boat creates a scene of her own, and you can immerse yourself in the soft humming of folk ballads.
A tranquil, uncompetitive peace, the most authentic 江南 water town. This is a niche travel destination with few people and beautiful scenery—Ancient Town 黎里. You might not feel it right after getting off the high-speed train, but once you stay in a guesthouse by the water town's river, you instantly sense the charm of 江南. Blue sky, white walls, black tiles, small bridges over flowing streams, and riverside homes. Strolling in 黎里 Ancient Town, breathing in the subtle osmanthus fragrance, and enjoying the warm afternoon sunshine. On the steps along the river, locals occasionally wash clothes and vegetables, neighbors greet each other, children run carefree. For a northern girl, such scenes are both unfamiliar and touching. Slow down life, immerse yourself in this water town home. Surrounded by vibrant greenery, quaint stone-paved streets and alleys, every detail reveals something new.
From the Tang Dynasty, 黎里 formed a village, and took shape in the Northern Song period. Historically, 黎里 was a typical commercial hub in 江南. From the Southern Song to 2020, it has a history of 893 years. Located in 吴江 District, 苏州, it borders Shanghai to the east, connects to 苏州 to the north, and neighbors 嘉兴 in Zhejiang to the south, with very convenient transportation. It takes just over an hour's drive from Shanghai. The entire protected area of the ancient town covers 46 hectares, with a long old canal stringing together 12 ancient bridges, countless Ming and Qing dynasty buildings, over a hundred lanes, and dazzling cultural and historical gems. This small town has outstanding people and a rich heritage. Celebrating both Mid-Autumn and National Day, in 黎里 you can see not only the quiet simplicity of the day but also the amazing sight of lights and bustling crowds at night! 黎里 Night in 江南, with thousands of lights, a profusion of colors, immersing you in a dreamlike water town scene.
黎里 is also known as "黎川", "梨花里", "禊湖"—such picturesque names are fitting for its serene elegance and unique charm, hidden away from the bustling world. You shouldn't rush through it; you need to slow down and immerse yourself. Sit in the long corridors, pause at a bridgehead, or take a sculling boat, and savor every bit of ancient charm. 黎里 Ancient Town is free to enter. Inside, separate attractions like 端本园 and the Tinware Museum require tickets, or you can buy a combined ticket. At the east entrance, there is a visitor center where you can purchase tickets, get information, or ask for a guide. You can also pick up a free map of the ancient town and buy exquisite cultural creative products.
The 黎里 River running through the town is the soul of this water town, carrying the memories of time. The water flows gently, the reflections of the old town are especially enchanting. The river meanders softly, each step like a painting. The most beautiful features are the ripples in the water, and the clusters and pools of varying shades of green.
The architecture of 黎里 is also the typical white-walled and black-tiled style, with exquisitely carved beams, brackets, and flying eaves, all well-preserved and restored to their original condition. Among the weathered old residences are 黎里's most famous lanes. The deep and dark ones are called "dark lanes". The town still preserves 115 lanes, of which 90 are dark lanes, and 11 are over 100 meters long. There are double lanes with a light and dark lane side by side, two dark lanes together, and even "mother-son" lanes and three-forked "lane within a lane"—truly the finest in 江南's ancient towns. In the past, wealthy and prestigious families would own an entire lane, often called "surname family lane". In 黎里, such surname-named lanes account for nearly half of all lanes in the town.
The ancient bridges are also a major feature of 黎里. Houses are built along the water, and these old bridges, once convenient crossings, are now a beautiful sight. There are 12 ancient bridges in total, 8 of which are authentic Ming and Qing bridges: 进登桥, 道南桥, 梯云桥, 迎祥桥... There are beam and arch types, connecting 黎里 into a harmonious whole.
The covered corridor along the water is a testament to ancient wisdom: it provides shade on sunny days, and in the long rainy season, you can go out without an umbrella! "Three miles of covered corridor, no need to wear a rain hat". Walking under the misty-rain corridor, feel the tranquil and leisurely moments of the water town~
When in 黎里, you must visit 端本园, where a winding path leads to a sudden open, bright space. The entrance is easy to miss; passing through a serene bamboo grove, the garden at the end of Daguan Lane in 黎里 reveals itself. This is one of the famous gardens of 吴江. The "Supplement to the 黎里 Gazetteer" describes 端本园: "Pear blossoms bright, willows dim, green water, vermilion rails winding through." Pavilions, terraces, waterside structures, and scattered flowers and trees unfold a tranquil, poetic scroll of a 江南 garden. The approximately 900-square-meter area features a winding bridge over a lotus pond, rockeries, halls, with 双桂楼, 平波轩, and 伴月廊 interspersed, fully showcasing the 姑苏 garden art of seeing the great in the small.
The garden has been restored to its former state and shines anew. The flower exhibition during National Day was bustling and lively. The garden was built by Chen Heming, an official during the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty, and was also respectfully called "Junma Mansion" by locals. Now it also carries the important task of spreading the culture of 黎里 Ancient Town!
During National Day, in 端本园's 双桂楼, I happened upon a very meaningful event. In 黎里, there is a special custom that has continued from the Ming and Qing Dynasties to the present: displaying treasures on Mid-Autumn. Each family shows off their treasured items for neighbors to admire—mostly literati calligraphy, paintings, and antiques. Hearing the owners tell the stories behind them adds a fresh touch. A fan page of Xu Yuanqing's "Lotus", twenty volumes of the Kangxi era "Yuan Liaofan's Outline and Mirror", and valuable documents like Xu Dayuan's "黎里 Gazetter"—these precious cultural relics made the Mid-Autumn night shine brightly.
When talking about 黎里's culture, one must mention the famous figure Liu Yazi. In 1922, Liu Yazi rented this mansion from the Zhou descendants to meet patriots from all over, discuss national affairs, edit the "南社丛刻", and write patriotic poetry and essays. The hall houses precious cultural materials related to Liu Yazi and the Nanshe Society. The literary waves and patriotic deeds of the past are presented before us.
It is located at No. 30 Zhongxin Street, 黎里 Town, a famous residence of 江南 from the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty. Originally the private mansion of Zhou Yuanli, a Zhili Governor-General and Minister of Works, it was formerly called 赐福堂. The entire mansion has six courtyards from front to back, spacious, with three existing brick-carved gate towers that are exquisitely shaped, tall, and imposing. The whole courtyard has been restored to a serene and elegant state; tall osmanthus trees fill the air with fragrance, lush greenery abounds, and as you walk through, you feel the beauty of 江南.
In this 江南 water town, there is a church that stands out from its surroundings. The Western-style architecture carries a touch of grace. Since the Republican era, it has served not only as a Catholic church but also as a patriotic school, nurturing generations of talent for 黎里.
Though it looks small from the outside, it is full of surprises inside. The museum is housed in the well-preserved Ming Dynasty Mao Residence on the town's main street. At the entrance, there is a shop and experience area; inside is the museum. The building is beautifully constructed, with a neat layout of front hall and rear chambers, and a brick-carved gate tower exuding ancient charm. The museum covers an area of 1,500 square meters and houses over 1,000 sets of tinware artifacts. This is currently the largest tinware museum in China.
The museum uses display cabinets and semi-open platforms, integrating pictures, physical objects, and reconstructed scenes to highlight the cultural characteristics of tin mining, smelting, and beating in 黎里. Eating utensils, tea sets, wine vessels, boudoir tin items, study tinware, tin carvings, ritual offerings... rows of tin products are neatly arranged. Gazing at them and handling them, one cannot help but marvel at the ancient uniqueness and exquisite craftsmanship of tin art.
Walking in 黎里, you encounter the most beautiful ancient town of 江南. Every building tells of bygone days; every little scene exudes inspiration from cultural creativity.
Here, you can not only visit cultural buildings and former residences of celebrities but also enjoy vibrant creative markets! Especially in the evening, the crowds are lively and bustling. Even with many people, there are no conflicts; the town's residents are very gentle. Even during the busiest Mid-Autumn lantern viewing, everything is orderly.
The 黎里 light show is the most captivating experience. When the light show meets the ancient town, it's like traveling through time and space. Everyone marvels at the dreamlike scenes. Near the entrance archway to 登瀛桥 and 道南桥, a high-tech multimedia light show forms a stunning picture. The water mist on the river adds an ethereal touch. Light moves with shadows, music swells, and the little town becomes a fairyland.
As the night deepens, the town returns to tranquility, quietly awaiting the next day's beauty.
There are many handicrafts in 黎里 Ancient Town. In this woodwork shop, there is 81-year-old craftsman Zhu Longguan, who has been in the cooperage trade for over 60 years. His work is exquisite and of high quality. In this original woodwork shop, you can see Master Zhu's entire barrel-making process, appreciate the traditional wood art of 江南, and see how everyday household items that carried the good wishes of ancient people have now become decorative, carrying on traditional craftsmanship.
The bamboo shop is captivating, with spatial design using bamboo elements, beautiful and elegant. Here, craftsmen also demonstrate bamboo weaving skills, inheriting folk culture.
To find the joy in your heart, come to the Wu Song Festival and experience music culture! The first "Wu Song Festival" is a festival within a festival, kicking off this Pear Blossom Cultural Festival with 14 music performances, 3 online and offline crossover forums, and a newly created audiovisual space. Rich in humanities, small yet exquisite, this is a music and cultural event specially customized for 黎里 Ancient Town. The 3-day event combines free admission with a reservation system. The exhibitions, along with many historical sites and cultural spaces in the town, will be open to the public all day. "Wu Song Festival" is not just a simple music festival but a lifestyle that respects humanism and nature, integrating the carefree spirit of ancient people singing while walking into modern life. As musical notes collide, one feels as if they have merged into this 江南 water town.
Regarding folk music, how we choose music, and the nourishment of Eastern culture to Eastern folk songs, everything traces back to human passion, from ancient times to the present, from south to north. In 黎里, we feel the influence of 吴 dialect culture and Chinese poetry on Eastern music. Those murmurs from hometowns are our favorite lullabies. Teacher Lao Lang's description of Tibetan maidens singing antiphonal songs already forms a romantic picture in the mind; and the line sung by Teacher Xiao He, "Grandmother trapped in the cradle," moved everyone present. Perhaps our experiences differ, but enjoying the musicians playing in the ancient pavilion, the joy of music connects us. Suddenly, discovering good music, seriously making good music, and seriously talking about making good music is truly a delightful thing. I so love this deeply interactive way of traveling. "Eternal Heritage Rhythm, Charming Wu Song," I adore the Wu Song Festival in 黎里 Ancient Town.
The "Wu Song Festival" cleverly uses the traditional-style buildings of 黎里 Ancient Town for immersive performances. Musically, it's not limited to contemporary Chinese folk songs but extends to China's indigenous music. It is the first time a dedicated stage for indigenous music has been provided at a music festival. This shows the Wu Song Festival's broad musicality, blending fashion and tradition. The first Wu Song Festival lasted three days. Today, at the 黎里 Ancient Town Exhibition Center, I attended the Wu Song Festival forum and was fortunate to listen to a soulful dialogue about music.
Entering the 黎里 Ancient Town Exhibition Center is like opening the vivid pages of 黎里's history. Listening to a forum here and feeling the charm of music adds a special flavor.
With few people and beautiful scenery, 黎里 Ancient Town is located in 吴江, 苏州, just an hour's drive from Shanghai, far from the noisy city, allowing you to enjoy the tranquil water town alone. Here, not only are there graceful and wonderful 江南 water town landscapes, but also many divine local snacks! 姑苏's scenery is like a painting. In 黎里 Ancient Town, don't miss these must-try food recommendations! 🌟 Must-Eat: Spicy Chicken Feet—the most famous snack in 黎里. The texture is unlike anything you've had before: sweet and sour, flavorful, tender and bouncy. The mild spiciness makes you unable to stop! My personal favorite is the flavor from Tangqiao Restaurant.
Youdun is a bit like the northern fried cake, golden in color, soft, chewy, and springy. But the outer glutinous rice is thicker. There are sweet ones with osmanthus and red bean paste filling and savory ones with fresh meat. Super satisfying after eating! I recommend the century-old Lu Family shop that got its name from Emperor Qianlong.
Haitang cake is crispy outside and soft inside, sweet and fragrant, mainly made of flour and red bean paste, but with lard mixed in to make it very aromatic. The caramelized sugar on the outside is classic; after baking, that burnt caramel aroma is the most delicious!
Taochang is pork intestine stuffed with small intestine, cleaned very well without any odor. Served with soy sauce and scallions, it's quite tasty. The large intestine is soft and thick, while the small intestine is crispy and crunchy. I recommend Lao Jie Taochang.
When I went to 黎里, it happened to be Mid-Autumn Festival. Buying a piece of Su-style mooncake that is crispy, flaky, sweet, and delicious, then sitting on a swaying sculling boat, it's super romantic on the rippling water! I recommend the century-old shop 生禄斋; the freshly baked ones are the best! Green bean cakes, sesame cakes, and ginkgo cakes are also good, perfect as souvenirs.
When visiting 江南 in autumn, don't miss the seasonal hairy crabs. You can find them at 黎里's traditional markets and new-style markets. Experience the local way of life!
Also, I recommend the meaty wontons—every time I had them as a staple after a meal! So delicious!
苏州 六悦庄: Experience the magic of living in a museum! Near 黎里 Ancient Town, there is a luxury hotel that blends classical opulence with modern color clashes—苏州六悦庄 Hotel. The lobby stuns you right away! The hotel's overall dark tone is composed of rustic wood hues and understated gray bricks, with bright, vivid color blocks setting off the exquisite, luxurious antique details. Yes, almost every ancient brick, every table and chair, are antiques collected by the owner from all over the country. The deep mansion is full of antique charm. I stayed in the Yuer Duplex Family Suite, which was very comfortably arranged. The decoration is intricate and striking, and every detail is meticulously done. The balcony offers a superb view of the 六悦博物馆 across the way! The mattress is super soft and comfortable, and the children's space on the second floor is also spacious, perfect for a family of four. Address: No.1 Renmin East Road. Price: around 1800 (varies by season). There's also a small welcome gift, including museum tickets and a free guided tour. They also have traditional cultural creative classes where kids can do handicrafts, making it excellent for family trips. Transportation: a ten-minute walk to the ancient town, very convenient.
六悦博物馆: Over 3,000 years ago, 西安 was the capital of the Zhou Dynasty, which cultivated gentlemen by teaching the Six Arts: rites, music, archery, charioteering, calligraphy, and mathematics. More than 1,300 years ago, when Xuanzang returned to Chang'an after obtaining the Buddhist scriptures, the concept of "Six Yue" (Six Pleasures) emerged: the pleasures of the eyes, ears, nose, tongue, body, and mind. The name "六悦" originates from the idea that humans have six senses: sight, smell, taste, hearing, touch, and intuition—the "sixth sense". 六悦 represents the delight of all these senses, hoping that every visitor can truly touch and experience traditional culture and arts, feeling joy in body and mind. To ensure these historically significant yet almost forgotten objects can continue to be treasured and appreciated, the 六悦博物馆 features over 30 different types of galleries with 40,000 art pieces, now shining again in an 18,000-square-meter exhibition hall.
Mr. Du Weiming, who has collected countless cultural relics, decided to establish the museum in 黎里 to display his treasures. The collection at the 六悦博物馆 spans far and wide: from Inner Mongolia in the north to Fujian and Yunnan in the south, and Xinjiang in the west. The earliest pieces date back to the Song and Yuan dynasties, up to the 1950s. Each exhibition hall has a themed display, such as: sacred sedan chairs, wood carvings, Buddhist statues, shrines, plaques, gift boxes and trunks, bamboo and silk baskets, family ancestral halls, palanquins, carpenter's tools, washbasin stands, folding screens, masks, portraits of opera characters, various wooden windows, and medicine cabinets. There are also various stone carvings, brick carvings, couplets, stone figures and horses, etc.
The Yuefu Restaurant inside the 六悦庄 Hotel is also a great dining spot! The private rooms are currently in suites on the first floor, with a beautiful environment. I recommend the hand-grabbed black beef bone, which tastes amazing.
