Lili Self-Drive Tour | Crisp Autumn Air, Seeking the Subtle Romance of an Ancient Town

With crisp autumn air, nothing is more delightful than a road trip.

The autumn in my memory is always especially brief and romantic, as if it could slip away at any moment, followed by the cold winds of winter.

Golden October is the best season to embrace autumn. To not let this rare autumn charm go to waste, I drove to Lili Ancient Town and began a short, relaxing, and tranquil time.

Compared to the crowded National Day holiday, the post-holiday town returned to its original serenity. The ancient streets, silent buildings, and lazy cats—compared to heart-wrenching joy, this subtle romance is even more captivating.

Driving from Hangzhou for just over two hours, I arrived at Lili Ancient Town. I've lost count of how many times I've been to Lili, but each visit brings something different. What never changes is its tranquility, the most beautiful interpretation of a Jiangnan water town in my memory. Lili Ancient Town is located in the southeast of Wujiang District, Suzhou, at the intersection of Jiangsu, Zhejiang, and Shanghai. Its geographical location is uniquely advantageous, making it a top self-drive destination for people from Jiangsu, Zhejiang, and Shanghai. Compared to Zhouzhuang, it has an extra layer of serenity, like a reclusive hermit untouched by the world, exuding an innate, elegant charm.

Entering Lili Ancient Town, you're immediately enveloped by the atmosphere of time. White walls and black tiles of Jiangnan architecture, mossy stone steps, and quiet, long lanes gently narrate the timeless stories of this thousand-year-old town, and everything slows down.

Lili Ancient Town is defined by water. The winding, murmuring waters divide the town in two. The buildings on opposite banks face each other, seemingly unrelated but in fact inseparable. The ancient trees along the banks are slightly yellowing, stubbornly holding onto the last trace of green. In the shimmering water, the reflections of tree shadows and buildings interplay, sketching a flowing painting that is fresh and understated.

Strolling slowly along the textured stone path, every step feels particularly grounding. Though not my hometown, it has the simplicity of home in my memory, which warms the heart. There are no overwhelming shops or dazzling signs here, making it a breath of fresh air among similar ancient towns. It is this purity that keeps many visitors coming back.

Through weathered wooden doors, scenes of old life come into view. Faded walls, yellowed tiles, a thick chopping block—familiar yet strange, instantly transporting me back to childhood, as if I were back at my grandmother's house. A long-lost feeling of nostalgia wells up. The town has preserved over a hundred lanes, each hiding countless vivid stories.

Further ahead, a mural on one side catches the eye. The images are lifelike, scenes unique to Lili come to life on paper, forming a rare and beautiful sight. On a mottled wooden railing, a cat lounges lazily, seemingly long accustomed to strangers, as if utterly indifferent, enjoying its own cozy moments just like the town itself.

When you come here, besides taking a ride on a rowboat to feel the freedom on the water, you must also try Zhang's Begonia Cake, one of the top ten snacks in Wujiang. The taste is impeccable, and a small cake evokes a deep sense of homesickness.

Looking down at the whole town, there's no sign of bustle or noise. The old buildings lean against each other, and the clear town river flows quietly, reflecting millennia of history.

After soaking in the casual serenity of the ancient town, I then headed to Liuye Museum, just a few hundred meters away—a three-minute drive, which is the beauty of a self-drive trip: stop at will. Even before arriving in Lili, I was deeply intrigued by this unique museum. It was opened by a 1960s-born American collector named Du Weiming, who spent over 40 years collecting more than 40,000 exhibits. The name 'Liuye' comes from the six senses: sight, smell, taste, hearing, touch, and intuition, a testament to Mr. Du's love for Chinese culture.

At first glance, the Liuye Museum captivates with its creative exterior. Compared to traditional museums, the design is bold: large areas of bright, vibrant colors clash with the ancient walls, creating a striking visual and an aesthetic experience.

Like its exterior, the museum's interior design is equally unconventional. Here, you won't find artificially aged walls; instead, highly saturated bright colors take center stage. Surprisingly, these historically rich exhibits, enveloped by such bold hues, don't feel out of place at all. Art and vintage aesthetics complement each other, exuding a unique noble elegance.

The museum is vast—18,000 square meters of space with more than 30 different exhibition halls, fully showcasing the glory of bygone eras. Inside, you'll see a wide variety of exhibits: statues, antique beds, plaques, abacuses, hanging paintings, and more. These old objects come from all corners of the country, some even unheard of. Now vividly displayed before you, it's like stepping into a journey through time, dazzling the eyes.

Wandering through Liuye Museum, you can even see scenes of old-time weddings: exquisite gift boxes, trunks, and timeless sedan chairs instantly transport you back to the last century. It's as if long-dormant old items have all been awakened, whispering their exclusive stories in my ear. Unlike other museums, the exhibits here aren't locked behind glass cabinets but are displayed up close, so you can feel their texture, making them more vivid and down-to-earth.

Strolling through, beyond feeling the depth of Chinese culture, what's truly intoxicating is the exquisite craftsmanship and artistic aesthetics of the exhibits. Every display is a memorable highlight; some, after nearly a thousand years, still retain their original colors, leaving one in awe of the ancient artisans' dedication. Compared to traditional museums, Liuye Museum leaves a stronger impression and is well worth a visit.

More irresistible than stepping into history is living in it. In addition to the Liuye Museum, Mr. Du Weiming also built the Liuye Manor Museum Hotel next to it. Compared to the cookie-cutter hotels in China, Liuye Manor is truly unique, continuing the museum's artistic style, with an exterior that echoes the museum's look. Pushing open the door feels like being pulled by a special magic, as if opening the door to a new world.

This hotel, where classical meets modern, satisfies everyone's exquisite pursuit of beauty. Even trendy youth who aren't into antiques can't resist its innate artistic beauty. The hotel is built from old bricks of varying shades, its exterior unadorned, primarily in a bluish-grey tone, revealing the most primitive architectural beauty.

The lobby design epitomizes luxury: lifelike carvings, timeless vintage furniture, and, most breathtaking of all, the exquisite caisson ceiling carvings above, with a mix of red and green lights that are bold but not tacky, brightening the entire space and showcasing historical charm.

Climbing the stairs, the old wooden railings show signs of age, while the walls beside are vividly painted with lifelike murals that captivate the eyes. Moving into the guest room, the layout is meticulously arranged—spacious but not empty, perfectly embodying traditional Chinese aesthetics, making one feel extremely comfortable. The furniture in the room consists of valuable antiques: an exquisite wood-carved wardrobe, a bright vintage sofa, and magnificent carved murals, with superb craftsmanship and harmonious colors. Walking through the room, everywhere you look, beauty is conveyed.

The hotel's lighting design is unique, using lots of vibrant colors to offset the aged feel of the antiques, making the entire space lively and free from any bleak or dim feeling, ensuring a more comfortable stay. The bathroom style is refreshing: white tiles contrast with peacock-blue walls, accented by plenty of wooden elements, pushing the artistic atmosphere to the extreme. If you're an art lover, you'll surely be captivated.

The toilets here have a distinct style with a punk-rock vibe, adding a different element to the hotel and making this mysterious place even more lovable. The restaurant is a highlight, featuring Suzhou cuisine. Red and blue lights and classical, elegant tables create a strong sense of ceremony. It's more of a small art gallery than a hotel—every step offers a view, making you want to linger.