Autumn Arrives at Sanshan Island in Taihu Lake | Lakes and Hills as Mellow as Wine, A Toast to Unrivaled Gentleness
Time passes so quickly.
A turn, and summer is now a story.
A glance back, and autumn has become a landscape.
Autumn comes slowly, but the cold hits you all at once. On sunny days, you don’t notice summer has gone; after one rain, you know how deep autumn is.
Autumn in the south is always more graceful than in the north. The north seems to have no autumn at all—the wind blows, leaves turn yellow, and before you know it, winter may have arrived.
Autumn in the south lasts longer and is more stunning, more like spring with the saturation dialed up—colorful, gentle, and never jarring.
This autumn, waiting for the wind, and also waiting for you~
Taihu Lake’s Sanshan Island, anciently called “Little Penglai,” lies in the middle of Taihu Lake, over fifty kilometers southwest of Suzhou city. Across the water, it’s about seven kilometers from Dongshan Luxiang Pier on the lake shore.
Sanshan Island gets its name from three peaks—Beishan, Xingshan, and Xiaogu Mountain—linked together. Beishan is the highest of the three, at 83.3 meters above sea level. Sanshan Island may not be tall and imposing, but it boasts layers of ridges and peaks. Stretching out, gently rising and falling, the hills and water coexist in quiet harmony, brimming with charm. Hence, Qing-dynasty poet Wu Zhuang praised it: “The dragon spirit of Changqi reaches Sanshan; the marshes stretch in one glance. Amid misty waters, settlements are scattered; truly, Penglai is here in our world.”
——Biking Around the Island
Sanshan Island in Taihu Lake, Suzhou—slow down and savor time~
I found the most fun and enjoyable thing is to ride a little yellow bike around the island, stopping here and there to explore every corner of this isle~
Run with the wind, walk towards the light. Green willows shake their heads in the breeze, clear streams gurgle in front and back yards. At the end of alleys, romantic flowers bloom with sweet fragrance; loquat and citrus trees stand lush and green.
All along the way, Dazhai, Xingshan, and Xiaogu Mountain are thickly verdant, the three peaks linked together. With the mountains for company, 36,000 hectares of lake shimmer, and the leisurely island loop road strings together little jewels.
Banbi Peak, locally known as Xingshan’s Stone, stands steep and sheer, just like a natural water-and-rock bonsai.
Sanshan Island not only has a long history but also a deep-rooted Sanshan culture and ancient Wu culture. 2,500 years ago, King Fuchai of Wu once visited here; his younger sister was buried on Sanshan Island, hence there is a Xiaogu Mountain and Xiaogu Temple (Niangniang Temple) on the island.
Xingshan has many peculiar rocks and strange slopes. Going up, the vegetation is lush and green. Wearing traditional costumes and walking on stone steps, gently swaying a round fan, the fluttering gauze makes you seem like you’ve stepped out of a fairyland.
Yixiantian (One-line Sky) is extremely steep, but it offers a shortcut to the summit. There are metal rings fixed to the rock face for aid, yet even so, it’s no easy climb.
The view from the top is enchanting, with a vast vista of lake and hills. After crossing Renxian Bridge, you’ll soon see Banbi Peak.
On the western slope of Xingshan, Banbi Peak is a sheer rock face about 20 meters wide and over 10 meters tall. The cliff is steep as if split by an axe, with vertical and horizontal textures as if carved by knives, mottled with moss and overgrown with vines. Small trees and flowers grow from crevices, and sparrows and eagles dance on the cliff—a truly delightful sight. Sanshan’s rock is all bluestone, and the stones exposed on the surface nearly all display the classic Taihu stone qualities of leanness, perforation, porosity, and wrinkling.
——Orange Picking
The island has many interactive experiences, the most down-to-earth being picking. Fishing and citrus farming are the island’s most traditional and main activities. Now that fishing is banned in Taihu Lake, citrus picking is in season. There are several varieties of oranges here; some small trees yield golden, sweet oranges, while taller trees are laden with tiny fruit.
Thanks to the island’s excellent environment, the oranges are all very tasty and sweet, as if the enchanted isle has given them a special spirit. There are many orange trees, but most are the main source of income for the villagers. Please don’t pick without the owner’s knowledge—even one or two is impolite. You can consult the visitor center for official picking experiences.
——Wetland Park
Cross Changshou Bridge to enter Sanshan Island Wetland Park. A long wooden boardwalk stretches into the distance, shaded by trees on both sides. Sunlight filters through the leaves and dapples the boards, creating a dance of light and shadow.
Autumn is no longer the lotus blooming season. The vast lotus pond now only has stems and leaves holding on alone. Under blue sky and white clouds, the lake water is clearer and brighter, showcasing a vast, open, elegant beauty. Unwittingly, I imagine how breathtaking the scene must be when all the lotuses are in full bloom.
The little boats in the wetland park are adorable—yellow, fluffy like ducklings bobbing on the water. These are pedal boats; you steer them yourself, and riding alone isn’t tiring at all.
The wetland has a teahouse. When you’re tired at noon, you can rest here, have some snacks, brew a pot of hot tea, sit by the lake, and take in the gorgeous scenery. It’s a feast for the eyes, the soul, and the stomach—this is the slow pace of Sanshan Island, worth enjoying and cherishing.
——Water Activities
Surrounded by water, Sanshan Island naturally offers plenty of water-based experiences. Do try the activities at the Sanshan Island expansion base. There are bamboo rafts and motorboats. Motorboats are fast, zipping across the lake and spraying water, perfect for the young. Bamboo rafts are slower, also engine-powered, not manually rowed. Sitting on a raft, you can leisurely admire the vast Taihu Lake scenery, take photos, and chat, which is very pleasant.
The lake is dotted with many islets of various sizes and shapes, all lushly vegetated. Cruising among them, the views constantly change; there is always something new to see, leaving you wanting more. Unlike boats elsewhere where a single glance takes in the entire scene and fatigue sets in quickly.
——Outdoor Adventure
Outdoor adventure is next to the water activities. High-altitude rock climbing and rappelling are built against Xiaogu Mountain. It’s said this was once an imperial quarry. Although Xiaogu Mountain isn’t tall, descending from above is still a thrilling extreme sport. If you lack courage or stamina, it’s best not to try—this is a game for the brave.
The climbing course nearby is relatively easier and girls can give it a try, provided you wear proper gear and stay safe.
The rope ladder is quite challenging; it sways as you step on it, and even using all four limbs, climbing up isn’t easy.
There are professional outdoor instructors who explain climbing techniques and ensure visitor safety. It’s a whole different game when you’re trained—they can dart to the top in a few moves and descend as lightly as swallows.
——Romantic Flower Fields
Sanshan Island is a romantic and poetic place. The hills are romantic, the lake is romantic, the plants are romantic, and the flowers are romantic. Waist-high flowers stretch in swaths—yellow, white, pink, purple—everywhere you look is romance.
Dressed in pink, step into the flower garden; a gentle breeze brings smiles. Wearing a traditional costume amid the sea of flowers, adjusting your sleeves, gazing into the distance—every frown and smile is the most beautiful picture. They say girls are as beautiful as flowers. Standing among the blooms, who is fairer—the person or the flower?
Sanshan Island has many peculiar stones: Golden Rooster Stone, Stacked Stones, and more. I think the most interesting is Niubei Stone, this giant boulder right next to the flower field, shaped exactly like an ox crouching by the lotus pond bank, drinking water.
Legend says this Niubei Stone was a golden ox from heaven that descended to earth. Because it often stole rice grain by Taihu Lake, people tied a red string to its tail. Later, when it was discovered, its tail was cut off, and it turned into a stone forever staying in the human world.
Beside Niubei Stone stands a lush big tree; taking photos here is quite photogenic. In autumn, the leaves turn from green to yellow, the lotus pond has only scattered duckweed left—the marks of time are especially visible here, creating a unique Chinese-style beauty.
——Twelve Zodiac Stones
Wuwang Avenue is a lakefront scenic road, lined with beautiful hibiscus flowers on both sides and stone balustrades carved with exquisite figures. In the lake are the Twelve Zodiac Stones, facing Taihu Lake, intricately hollowed out. On close inspection, they resemble the shapes of the twelve zodiac animals.
In the distance, lake and sky merge into one. Stroll along the lakeside causeway, skirting the water southwards, the lake light intoxicates. Every three steps, a peach tree; every five steps, a willow; fragrant grasses abound. When the eastern breeze blows, water weeds dance like green ribbons; falling petals scatter by sparse willows. Blue skies, emerald water, air fresh-washed, swallows flying, orioles singing—it rivals West Lake’s Su Causeway.
——Sunset at Wuwang Causeway
Wuwang Causeway is the best spot to watch the sunset on Sanshan Island. After a day of beautiful scenery and joyful moods, even the brief moment when the sun finally dips below the horizon becomes a stunning finale associated with harmony and beauty.
The sky changes color; Taihu Lake changes color; the afterglow, carrying the last warmth, seems to color the very air. The sun’s harsh glare softens into a gentle halo, painting glittering golden light on the lake. The wind blows, and the surface sparkles. Such beautiful moments are always short, but we feel only satisfaction, not sadness, for we know tomorrow it will rise from another direction.
——Bonfire Party
The lively bonfire party in the evening adds a touch of playfulness to romantic Sanshan Island. The festive mood won’t stop for the night’s darkness. Pile up the wood, light the torches, and the bonfire leaps and dances. When the music starts, people who have finished dinner begin to gather, singing and dancing around the fire. People from all corners, you and I, together on Sanshan Island, warming by the same fire, dancing the same dance, with the same laughter and joy, holding hands circle after circle…
——Time at the Lounge Bar
If the bonfire isn’t enough, the old pier lounge bar lights up at night. The bar is small, with shelves full of drinks, wooden tables, and rustic oil lamps. Outside, the lonely sound of the autumn wind blows across the pier over Taihu Lake at night. Literary, chic, romantic~
Perhaps only in the quiet of night do people feel a sense of belonging for the soul. Singing at the top of your lungs, drinking with abandon, gently swirling your glass—inside spins your own story. You look at it, think about it, then choose to down it in one gulp and smile: “It’s nothing, really.”
> Clothing
On autumn Sanshan Island, there’s wind in the morning and evening, so if you plan to watch sunrise or sunset, it’s best to bring a thick jacket. Sunrise is around 6:15 am. At noon, if it’s sunny, it can be a bit hot; normal long-sleeved shirts without a coat are fine.
Sanshan Island is perfect for travel photography in ancient costumes. You can bring a few sets of traditional Han clothing; it’s very easy to get great shots and stunning photos to blow up your social media.
> Food
Suzhou’s Taihu Sanshan Island boasts beautiful scenery, and the local cuisine is a feast for the taste buds, mainly freshwater delicacies: plump hairy crabs, delicious Taihu three whites (white fish, white shrimp, whitebait)—one bite and you’ll rave about it. There’s also lamb offal soup, red-braised pork, and various island-grown seasonal vegetables. No fancy cooking methods, just the simplest, most straightforward preparations that awaken your palate. The key is the incredibly fresh ingredients. After leaving the island, you might gain another three jin for sure.
> Accommodation
A two-day, one-night trip is recommended for Sanshan Island—enjoy the sights, the food, and the stay. The island has many beautiful and peaceful guesthouses, such as Guoyun Shanju, Daoyin, and Hongyun Yazhi. For a weekend getaway, escape the city noise and enjoy the tranquil slow pace of Taihu Lake~
Guoyun Shanju can be considered the best guesthouse on the island, from environment and location to comfort level. It features minimalist and elegant design, high-end comfortable bedding, and huge panoramic windows. Wake up and open your eyes to lake and mountain views.
Daoyin is located near Niubei Stone, in a relatively quiet area. The rooms and common spaces use warm, gentle tones. There’s a small bar in the courtyard where a few friends can have a quiet drink in the evening—cozy and relaxing.
Hongyun Yazhi is in the middle of the island, surrounded by local island homes, with characteristic grey-tiled, white-walled houses. The clean, tidy lanes are undisturbed, allowing you to quietly immerse yourself in the island’s peaceful local life.
> Transport
There are two piers on the island: Xianqi and Changqi. The main transport to the island is by boat. Large tourist boats cost 20 yuan per ticket with fixed schedules and frequent services. Private speedboats have no time restrictions and can depart anytime, fast but pricier—280 yuan per boat, which can carry up to 8 people.
To go around the entire island takes a long time, so a rental vehicle is a must. There are two-seater or four-seater pedal bikes, and also easier electric yellow scooters. Just choose whatever you feel like. With many scenic spots on the island, taking a vehicle is recommended.
