Red All Over Gusu and Jinling (Tianping Mountain + Qixia Mountain + Nanshan Bamboo Sea)

📍 Suzhou · 👁 1280 reads · ❤️ 3 likes

Preface: Most of my time in Suzhou was spent in the Gusu district. Inspired by the drama 'The Untamed,' I thought it'd be fun to write 'Gusu.' As for 'Jinling,' it's the ancient name for Nanjing when it served as a capital.

A long-delayed Jiangsu trip. Thanks to the pandemic, this trip—pushed back by over half a year—finally happened, though it morphed from flower viewing into leaf peeping. Last month at Liping I didn't see mountains truly blanketed in red leaves, so I was determined to go all in for autumn hues.

This was my second solo trip to East China. I'm in love with the unique Jiangnan style. Last time I breezed through five ancient towns and three gardens; this time, it's three mountains back-to-back, two of which are among China's Four Great Maple-Leaf Viewing Sites. I bet you've already guessed which two! I'd read travel guides saying mid-November was peak maple season, but later a real-time official account reported late November would be even better. I agonized for ages, missed the fine weather of mid-November, then saw a sharp temperature drop and rain coming. After much soul-searching, I just went for it. But Suzhou has no airport. Flights to Shanghai were dirt cheap, but then Pudong was labeled a medium-risk area. Couldn't risk ruining my trip, so I switched to flying into Wuxi. Accommodations near Wuxi airport were a joke—none offered pickups. For safety, even a super-cheap midnight flight wouldn't do, so I chose midday. Compared prices and settled on November 24th.

Nov 24, 2020. A little hiccup: I was driving myself to catch the airport bus when my car died halfway. Took a taxi to the terminal while my dad dealt with the car. First time taking the Zhuhai airport bus—said to take 2.5 hours, but we arrived in 2. I'd already caught an earlier bus because of scheduling; every time I go to Zhuhai airport, I end up three hours early. Spent two hours watching planes come and go, grabbed lunch. Finally boarded. China Eastern had great deals this year. The clouds were gorgeous after takeoff; the sun was brilliant, and it had cooled down just enough. Long sleeves plus a jacket was perfect, no awkwardness. As we started descending, the clouds darkened. Rain greeted us on landing. I'd eaten before the flight, so the plane meal was too much. After landing—temperance checks, scan QR codes for Suzhou health code and travel history—got dressed and hurried to Gate 6 arrivals to buy an airport bus ticket to Wuxi train station. The fare was 35 yuan, different from what the official account posted. But I missed the 3:10 PM bus; next one was 4:00 PM. The waiting area was at Gate 7, staff called out when to board. The guy next to me had bought two tickets to get to Suzhou—originally a Shanghai flight, then chickened out and bought another to Wuxi. Hilarious! Fine drizzle everywhere. I asked and found out that Suzhou train station's long-distance bus terminal didn't have coaches to Liyang; only the South Station did. So I took the metro to Leqiao and checked into a hotel near Guanqian Park. The front desk lady grilled me on all current high/medium-risk areas and whether I'd been there in the past 14 days. After dropping my stuff, I set off for Qilishantang.

A cold rainy night, not many people. All the water-town charm was there—a modest street with canal-boat rides, local snacks like freshly made osmanthus cake (only good hot). It reminded me of the gorgon cake I'd bought in Wuzhen years ago. After a quick loop, I headed back to Guanqian Street. I'd been here a few years ago, not realizing the side alleys were the real key to the place. This archway marks the main drag, but it's wide with upscale shops. To find the proper snack-filled pedestrian lane, turn into the right alley and go parallel to the main street. Even the street names there were something. I thought about exploring Pingjiang Road too, but it was late, so I went back, washed up, and crashed.

Nov 25, 2020. Headed out early for breakfast, still drizzling. I wanted noodles, but this joint only had wontons and soup dumplings. Wontons it was. The portion was massive for me! Metro then bus to the foot of Tianping Mountain. A little rant: after finalizing my Jiangsu trip, I instantly snapped up 1-yuan tickets for the Humble Administrator's Garden and the Couple's Retreat Garden on the 26th via the 'Suzhou Garden Tourism' official account. Then I tried to buy a 25th ticket for Tianping Mountain, but it was sold out—though the 26th still had availability. In the end, I just got a 30-yuan ticket on Ctrip. The red leaves at the bus stop were stunning even in the rain. I walked past the scenic area exit (group visitors could enter there; individuals had to go a few hundred meters to the right). A tasteful white wall with bamboo marked the individual entrance. Scanned the Ctrip QR code and came through an archway. Online guides say the red leaves are all around two lakes here—no mountain climbing needed. The Winding Bridge on Ten Scenes Pond and the building opposite, Fan Gong Shrine. Imagine the lotus blooms beside the bridge in summer—a whole different spectacle. I toured Fan Gong Shrine, a lovely courtyard. Saw a colossal ancient ginkgo, its leaves nearly all fallen. The White Cloud Monastery was solemn, almost intimidating. I followed an online recommended uphill route to Tongzi Gate. Stairs led up; to the right was a Nostalgia Pavilion. Going left from there took me past houses, all tightly shut. I adored the maple and ginkgo leaves under the eaves. With the light rain and humidity, the place felt enchantingly misty. I could still see the Nostalgia Pavilion. Little did I know, this was just the start—the climb was long. Finally reached the 'shop' on the map, only a vending machine. The right path down led to Tianyun Temple; straight ahead led to the summit viewing platform. Tianyun Temple was just a place of worship; thick fog made it look like a filtered photo. Back to the 'shop' and up to the viewing platform—another 'Floating Peak' (Feilai Peak). Thanks to the rain and fog, no scenery whatsoever, rivaling Lingyin Temple's Feilai Peak. I wondered why I'd come up. The path was rough, and this was only the beginning. Following the online route down was a huge mistake—I should have just retraced my steps. Friends, I don't know how I made it, stuck with no way forward or back, nearly in tears. Why didn't I just enjoy the leaves at the foot? Well, here was my punishment. A path only as wide as one shoe. Looking back: the 'Three-Line Sky.' If you ever stumble into Lotus Flower Cave, I advise less-than-svelte strongmen and low-stamina fairy girls not to attempt this climb. Clothes can be replaced, but your body—that irreplaceable luxury—cannot. After finally getting down, a fully red maple tree greeted me, instantly lifting my spirits. Following a few girls' excited exclamations, I spotted the Monkey King on a rooftop, pondering simian existence. Passing through that courtyard, I saw another nearly bare ginkgo. Walking out, I realized it was the Fan Zhongyan Memorial Hall: 'Be the first to worry about the world's worries, and the last to enjoy its joys.' Beyond the archway was the maple forest. In stark contrast to the deserted summit, the autumn colors around the two lakes drew crowds of photographers. The hike had eaten up so much time, I almost forgot I had a reservation at the Suzhou Museum for today. Originally booked free for 3-4 PM on the museum's official account, I had to cancel and rebook for 4-5 PM. I reached the bus stop at 2:30 PM; at least an hour's ride back. I ran everywhere except on the bus. Made it just in time as the last visitor; staff shut the door behind me. They said I'd have to exit via the Zhongwang Mansion—such an early closing! It was getting dark, so I barely saw the interior exhibits, just the museum model. The main draw was the exterior, and it was lovely. I hope someday I'll have someone to share the view with and take my photos. The rain picked up. Suzhou Museum and Zhongwang Mansion are connected; I exited into a downpour. My clothes and backpack were waterproof, but my shoes weren't. Even with an umbrella, they got soaked. I spotted a McDonald's and ducked in for shelter, sitting for about thirty to forty minutes until the rain stopped and it was already dark. Even McDonald's had a Suzhou flair. Went to Pingjiang Road for food and found Hefu Noodle. I never feature a gourmet section on my trips—eating a full meal makes me bloated when walking—so snacks and noodles are my go-to. Same as last time, nothing had changed. I heard a street vendor say more rain was coming at 8 PM. I'd wanted to grab a fried dough fritter with mochi as a late-night snack on Guanqian Street, but now I hurried back to the hotel.

Nov 26, 2020. Got up late, still drizzling. Hadn't found breakfast on Pingjiang Road, so decided to eat after visiting the Couple's Retreat Garden. Daytime Pingjiang Road had a different charm. I loved the 'leaking window' views, the gingko leaves I never tire of, and this year I discovered banana trees—so fresh, I fell for them. Of course, all the pavilions, terraces, and towers were there. More banana trees; the flower buds reminded me of congee. I was hungry! Exiting, still no food until I saw osmanthus cake again and bought some without hesitation, eating as I walked. I spotted the place I'd dined at years ago across the canal. A big sycamore leaf was stuck to a shop's glass door; I so wanted to take it home, but it was too large and I had nothing to press it flat. Second visit to the Humble Administrator's Garden, explored in reverse—felt like my first time. Last time I'd arrived late when the garden was closing, just a quick rush. Every sight of ginkgo sent me into a photo frenzy. Compared to the Couple's Retreat Garden, it's enormous, seemingly endless. Was that a Japanese maple? It caught my eye. A change of scene: withered lotus. In the distance, supposedly Tiger Hill Pagoda—missed it once again. The Humble Administrator's Garden was more crowded; last time it had probably been nearly empty because of closing time. Past 11 AM, I had to switch locations later. I'd nab that internet-famous fried dough as lunch! I also bought two lotus-leaf pastries for tomorrow's breakfast. The hot fried dough was pretty tasty, but I was too rushed to take a picture. Dashed to the hotel, grabbed my luggage. The metro didn't seem to go directly to the South Bus Station, so I walked to the Leqiao bus stop nearby, hopped on bus 529, and headed for Suzhou South Gate Bus Station. (So, does Suzhou have a city wall? South Gate?) Bought a 66-yuan bus ticket to Liyang. Boarded the wrong bus—to Yangzhou—and realized at the very last second; the right one was right next to it. Phew. The bus got off the highway at Changzhou, and near Liyang Bus Station, there seemed to be a traffic light every kilometer—so annoying. Finally arrived, searched all around the outer square for bus 109 to Nanshan Bamboo Sea, couldn't find it. Asking inside the ticket hall, I learned 109 departs from inside the station. Doh! Nearly missed the last bus, shoes soaked through. Paid 7.5 yuan via WeChat onboard. Arrived at the Nanshan Bamboo Sea parking lot; this was where the so-called Rainbow Road was. Called my pre-booked hotel for a pickup. Behind me was Mingqing Street, a commercial strip; I thought the scenic area entrance was there—it wasn't. Finally, I could crash. The hotel, run by the owners, had a great layout. I asked for dinner; the auntie made me plain noodles with homegrown spinach and an egg—homey and delicious! One problem: it was freezing. Even with the heater on full, I shivered. Put on extra clothes to sleep.

Nov 27, 2020. A bit cold, got up late and procrastinated packing. After the hotel's included breakfast, it was 9:30 AM. Light rain outside. To keep my shoes dry, a 1 km walk took nearly an hour to reach the scenic area gate. Daytime Rainbow Road—even the parking spaces were painted in rainbow colors. I'd bought a combo ticket (entry + two-way funicular) for 155 yuan on Mafengwo the day before. At the gate, staff reminded me that without the little train, it'd take half an hour to walk to the funicular. In the rain, at my pace, an hour would be optimistic. Reached the little train plaza; the pedestrian boardwalk went right, the little train left. I adore bamboo, and with autumn's red leaves it was even more beautiful. Would have been bliss to go boating on the lake. I chose to walk to soak in the bamboo sea. Finally reached Longevity Star Plaza, with a giant old-man statue at its center. Turned left; the cable car and funicular were that way. Not sure where the entrance was, I just asked a staff member. Finally on the funicular I'd been longing for! Three cars; staff said any would do. I took the uppermost one—best for snapping photos when two cars meet midway. The lower two had seats, the top one had none; for the finest view, don't sit. Following signs led to Jiming Village, with an old school and a rich man's house, compact, reminiscent of the rich man's house in Huangling. There were signs to the Panda House and Bamboo Culture Museum. I walked through the bamboo-themed museum, then a path to the Panda House. Two national treasures here: Huali and Xing'an, both female? Upon entering, a fresh bamboo aroma hit me. Too early though—they were still asleep. If they hadn't turned over, I'd have thought they were fake. Exiting through a panda souvenir shop, I realized you could reach the Panda House from Jiming Village without the museum detour—I wanted to scream. Had it not been raining, no big deal, but the rain made me snail-paced. The cable car goes up to First Peak. I really wanted to experience those colorful cable cars; the scenery must be stunning and probably unmatched elsewhere. But earlier, in the rain, I'd climbed to the top of Taiping Mountain and saw nothing, so likely I'd see nothing here either. Plus the cable cars were semi-enclosed, and there was a walk after. That convinced me to pass. Since it had taken over an hour to walk up, I decided to take the little train down. I was reluctant to leave, unsure if I'd ever return. Called the hotel to bring my luggage. Oh, by the archway on the left side was a visitor center, but for groups only. Online ticket holders just scan the QR code at the ticket gate. I asked a security guard; the direct bus to Liyang High-speed Rail Station waited in the middle of the parking lot, pay 10 yuan cash onboard, departs on the hour. Plenty of trains from Liyang to Nanjing, so no rush this time. Arrive in Nanjing after dark, colder but finally no rain. Surprise—Nanjing didn't require displaying a health code. But the metro minimum fare was 3 yuan, steep, though when in Rome... Took the metro to Wudingmen, walked to the hotel near Laodongmen. The hotel oozed Jiangnan water-town vibe. Loving the heating—no more shivering! Wouldn't have gone out if not hungry. The area was perfect for ancient-style photos; lots of girls were dressed in period costumes. Spotted the Deyunshe Nanjing branch, lots of onlookers—tickets likely needed to be booked in advance.

Nov 28, 2020. Woke late, raced to Wudingmen, half-hour metro ride. No metro station near Qixia Mountain; had to transfer at Xinzhuang Square to bus D21, over an hour. It was Saturday, and the hordes waiting for D21 to Qixia Mountain were insane. Plenty of taxis offering shared rides for 20 yuan. After an eternity, the bus came, packed—standing room only for the entire long hour. I'd bought a 37-yuan ticket on Mafengwo the day before, scanned the QR code at the gate. To the right of the entrance was a visitor center with free lockers. After ticket check, free incense (three sticks) was handed out. I was tempted to take some for a photo, but knew I wouldn't enter the temple, and the cold made holding sticks unpleasant. I passed. I saw some wishing wind chimes, probably 20 yuan each. This was Jing Lake. The route: Qixia Temple – Jing Lake – Qianfo Zhai – Taohuashan Pavilion – Red Leaf Valley – Fenglin Lake – Red Maple Forest – Xiaoyingpan – down the stairs opposite Xiaoyingpan – Qianfo Cliff – back to Jing Lake. People who got incense offered it at Qixia Temple; four large ginkgo trees there were lovely. Learning from Tianping Mountain, I skipped the summit climb for a Yangtze River view—mountain climbing eats time. Finally, I got to see mountainsides covered in red leaves! Total satisfaction for the day: all shades of red, yellow, green. I'd bet the leaves would linger until early December. Around 3 PM, I reached Qianfo Pagoda, then headed back to Qinhuai River. On the return bus, I finally snagged a seat and could rest. Got off at Fuzi Miao, went upstairs and it was Qinhuai River. After 4 PM, the sky was dimming. I meandered from Qinhuai River back to Laodongmen. Jiangnan Examination Hall—ancient civil service exam site—required a ticket, didn't go in, nice façade. Fuzi Miao, didn't enter either. Rickshaws at the gate, very characteristic. And canal-boat rides. Crab roe soup dumpling: I'd seen it in Shantang Street and wanted to try, but it rained and there was no seating there. Here also no seating, but cheaper. Still, this thing needs a proper seated spot. The straw easily clogged, I couldn't finish the broth. Found a place to open it, awkwardly splattering my clothes with soup; the paper holder even leaked. Taste so-so, never again. Online raves about Nanjing's duck blood vermicelli soup; found a highly-rated one on Meituan. They considerately asked about scallions and cilantro (I don't eat either). Maybe I just dislike offal—only the vermicelli was edible. Were the scallions and cilantro meant to mask the smell? Maybe it wasn't as good without them. I saw plum blossom cake on the street, similar to Suzhou's osmanthus cake, but it's no good cold. Already too full, I didn't buy any. Finally, I lingered a bit more in Laodongmen before fetching my luggage from the hotel and heading to the airport. Six days away, but only five in Jiangsu. Four days of rain, but it didn't really derail my plans. Hoping next cherry blossom season brings no disasters. Jiangsu, see you next year!

In the end, a quick summary of transport and costs:

Zhuhai–Wuxi flight: 370

Nanjing–Zhuhai flight: 290

Home–Zhuhai airport bus: 55×2 = 110

Wuxi airport–Suzhou train station: 35

Suzhou South Bus Station–Liyang Bus Station: 66

Liyang Bus Station–Nanshan Bamboo Sea (bus 109): 7.5

Nanshan Bamboo Sea–Liyang High-speed Rail Station: 10

Liyang–Nanjing: 45

Tianping Mountain ticket: 30

Humble Administrator's Garden ticket: 1

Couple's Retreat Garden ticket: 1