Follow Shaobai to Suzhou: Lingyan Mountain Temple

A mountain is famed not for its height, but for the immortals who dwell there; water is enchanted not for its depth, but for the dragons that inhabit it. Suzhou’s hills may be low, but each has its own renown – Lingyan Mountain is the most celebrated of them all. Since ancient times, Lingyan has been praised as "the most elegant peak south of the Yangtze" and "a wonder surpassing even Tiantai." Atop the mountain stands Lingyan Temple, home to the venerable old monk, Master Yinguang. Today, the temple still draws a steady stream of worshippers, and on festivals, large crowds of locals come to pay their respects.

Lingyan Temple once made waves on social media for keeping its admission fee at just one yuan for decades. Lingyan Mountain itself, as the starting point of Suzhou’s Lingbai hiking trail, is a popular weekend destination for outdoor enthusiasts.

Throughout history, poets and scholars have climbed Lingyan to reflect and to find inspiration: Emperor Jianwen of the Southern Liang, Tang dynasty poets Wei Yingwu, Bai Juyi, Liu Yuxi, Li Shangyin; Fan Zhongyan of the Song; Wen Zhengming, Tang Yin, and Gao Qi of the Ming; and the Qing emperors Kangxi and Qianlong. Bai Juyi wrote this poem after visiting Lingyan Temple:

"High and bright the white moon rises above the green woods, / Guests depart, the monk returns, the night deepens alone. / Purging rich fare, I still can appreciate wine; / Music and bells fade, only the lute stays. / No vulgar thing meets the eye, / Only the sound of springs washes my heart. / What I love most—looking east from the morning pavilion: / Taihu’s misty waters, darkly green and deep."

Once again, a quiet yearning stirs – you give me a sense of peace, in this season I so deeply adore, and once more I see the Jiangnan of September. Folk singer Xu Wei also visited Lingyan and wrote a rather soulful song here.

Today, the Lingyan Mountain scenic area is extensive. Lingyan Temple lies at the southern entrance of the Lingyan Mountain customs zone. Passing through a short commercial street (mostly incense shops for pilgrims), you’ll reach the temple’s gate.

Through the gate, a winding imperial path ascends. Because Emperors Kangxi and Qianlong both climbed this way, the route is known as the Imperial Path. From the gate, two parallel trails lead up: one, an old path of grey bricks worn smooth by time, can be slippery when wet; the other is a newer staircase.

“One broad path—here let us unite and strive upward; Fine hills all around—return with a new perspective.” Climbing the stone steps of the Imperial Path, you come first to Jilu Pavilion, named after the alias of Master Yinguang, a celebrated abbot of Lingyan Temple.

Along both sides of the stone stairs, stone monuments stand, and you might catch glimpses of autumn colors.

Next is Yingxiao (Welcoming Smile) Pavilion. Legend says it was built in the Song dynasty; it was here that Su Dongpo smiled as he greeted a monk friend.

Winding steeply upward is a flight of stone steps flanked by dense green bamboo. Further on you reach Luohong (Falling Red) Pavilion, linked to an old line: “The Elephant King turns back to gaze upon the red falling flowers.” Lingyan was once known as Elephant Hill, and this spot is ideal for watching the sunset.

From Luohong Pavilion, turn left and climb about 300 paces, known locally as the “Hundred Steps”. This is part of the Imperial Path built for Emperor Qianlong’s visits, and the slope is quite steep.

Beside the path, a square brick platform marks the robe-and-bowl pagoda of Monk Zhiji, the founding abbot of Lingyan Temple from the Liang dynasty.

To its south, a huge rock shaped like a turtle stretches its head toward Taihu Lake – hence the name “Tortoise Gazing at Taihu”. Carved on the rock’s back are three characters: “Gazing for Buddha”. On the stone there are foot marks; legend says the beauty Xi Shi once stood here, longing for her hometown. Besides the stone turtle, Lingyan Mountain is dotted with countless curious rocks: the Lingzhi Stone, Stone Horse, Stone Drum, Drunken Monk Stone, Moon-Gazing Terrace, Sleeping Ox Stone, Raft-Stem Stone, Buddha-Sun Rock, stone pillars, and many others still point out today. Lingyan Temple even gets its name from these remarkable rocks, celebrated as the “Eighteen Marvelous Stones”.

"Lingyan Mountain faces Xukou, at sunset gazing southwest to Taihu. / Twin isles like snails seem to float and rise; / A single sail with birds vanishes from sight. / Idly discussing the past, what can one say? / Not seeing the sage, I try calling out. / But beware—do not approach, the waves may frighten: / The greatest wonders lie in the blur." Standing by the stone turtle, you can take in a broad view of Suzhou’s cityscape. The sweat you broke climbing up is instantly lifted by a refreshing sense of ease.

“Gladly wearing Xie’s clogs, I once more ascend the King of Wu’s terrace. / Observing the moods of lake and hills, / Sensing rise and fall in the woods. / The chanting of sutras breaks off, then resumes; / Kindly birds scatter, then return. / Willow twigs hint at spring; / A painterly scene unfolds as the clouds part.” As you reach the summit, Lingyan Temple comes into view.

From above, the solemn temple clings to the edge of the mountaintop cliff, surrounded by the thriving city of Suzhou.

Thanks to the unwavering resolve of the temple’s elders, Lingyan Temple still keeps its admission at one yuan. Due to the pandemic, however, advance booking and a temperature check are required before entry.

Passing through the temple gate, you enter the Maitreya Pavilion – the Hall of Heavenly Kings. In the center sits a crown-crowned Maitreya. Behind him is a seated statue of Skanda holding a pestle, different from the standing Skanda found in many other temples. On both sides are color- painted statues of the Four Heavenly Kings, each 4.5 meters tall.

Beyond the Hall of Heavenly Kings, a stone bridge crosses the Clear Boundary Pond, its railings festooned with red prayer ribbons. This leads to the Mahavira Hall.

To the left upon entering is the Hall of the Monastery Guardian; the corridor in front is covered with hanging blessing tags.

It’s a wonderful spot for photography – whether you’re documenting culture or just snapping a memory, it’s truly beautiful.

The Mahavira Hall, 25 meters high and 20 meters wide, was built in 1934. In the center is a 6-meter-tall Sakyamuni Buddha, flanked by his two disciples, Kasyapa and Ananda. All are carved from camphor wood and radiate serene compassion.

Turning right, you find the oldest part of the temple complex: the Lingyan Temple Pagoda. Devotees and visitors alike follow the guide signs, walking clockwise around the pagoda three times and paying homage to Guanyin.

Built during the Liang dynasty, this seven-story, octagonal brick-and-wood pagoda has withstood the ages and stands as the symbol of Lingyan Mountain. Niches at its base hold several stone statues of Guanyin.

Past the temple, continuing upward, you reach a hilltop garden.

The circular Wu Wang Well is an ancient palace well where Xi Shi once gazed at her reflection. The octagonal Zhiji Well was reputedly cleared by Monk Zhiji of the Liang dynasty, hence its name; its sweet spring water is said to make excellent tea. North of the well, a rockery holds the “Longevity Pavilion”, said to have been Xi Shi’s dressing nook.

Atop a rockery in the garden there’s a tea house. Sitting there, you can overlook the whole of Lingyan Temple. Surrounded by lush greenery, it brings to mind Liu Yuxi’s “An Inscription on My Humble Room”: humble it may be, yet fragrant with virtue – a cup of clear tea, a heart of Zen.

With its tatami-style seating, it’s a perfect spot to gather with friends on a summer’s day.

Lingyan Temple is famous for its vegetarian noodles. At midday, try a bowl; on weekends the mountain teems with hikers, and at mealtime the noodle shop bustles.

In the hilltop garden, there’s also a Lingyan market – an ideal place to browse while taking a rest from the climb.

In the garden, Huanhua (Washing Flowers) Pond is where Xi Shi is said to have floated in a boat, picking lotus flowers. To the west lies Stone Fort, a wall along the cliff built by King Helü of Wu, its masonry patterned like cracked ice. The Moon-Viewing Pond was once where Xi Shi admired the moon.

At the market, you’ll find charming trinkets and snacks from all over. One vendor sells a traditional treat from the far northeast – rice cakes. The master pounds them on the spot, and they taste soft and chewy, somewhat like Suzhou-style sticky rice cakes.

After exploring the market, a delightful day at Lingyan Mountain comes to a close. Thank you, friends, for joining this journey!

Getting there: 1. From Suzhou Railway Station, take Bus You 4 to the final stop, Mudu Yanjia Garden, which is near Lingyan Mountain. 2. From Wuzhong Bus Station, head to Shihu East Road Metro Station, take Metro Line 2 to Guangji South Road Station, transfer to Metro Line 1 to Mudu Station, then go to Mudu Transfer Hub and take Bus 668; alight at Fangjia Bridge to reach Lingyan Mountain. 3. From Suzhou North Railway Station (Beijing-Shanghai High-Speed Railway), take Metro Line 2 for 12 stops to Guangji South Road Station, transfer to Metro Line 1 to Mudu Station, then at Mudu Transfer Hub, take Bus 583 to Lingyan Mountain East Stop, arriving at the Lingyan Mountain terminus.