Strolling Through Zhouzhuang, the Authentic Water Town of Dreams, the Most Poetic of All Jiangnan Ancient Towns

📍 Suzhou · 👁 5597 reads · ❤️ 31 likes

Born in Jiangnan, I've had an inexplicable bond with its ancient towns since childhood. The layered past endows everything with its joys and sorrows, like a sigh muffled by the years, leaving a unique flavor.

Blue stone slabs, key-shaped bridges, the sound of black-awning oars, arcaded streets...

If I had to choose a favorite among Jiangnan's ancient towns, Zhouzhuang would be one.

"There is a life called Zhouzhuang" – what kind of experience is that? I'd say Zhouzhuang's life is more than one. With a press of the accelerator, I arrived in Zhouzhuang for a 3-day, 2-night slow-life journey.

[Itinerary]

Day 1: Tour Zhouzhuang Ancient Town route: Ancient Archway → Carton King → Zhouzhuang Museum → Zhang House → Shen House → Twin Bridges → Fu'an Bridge → Grandma's Bridge → Visit Zhenfeng Street's Twelve Workshops, Cat's Sky (Maokong) → Lu Yun Agarwood (make sachets / incense ceremony experience) → Sanmao Tea House.

Lunch: Carton King Creative Restaurant → Afternoon tea: Jubinlou → Dinner: Shen Hall Restaurant (Wansan Family Banquet) → Admire night views of the North-South Canal → Flower Lane → Rain Lane. Accommodation: Carton King Latte Stone Art Inn.

Day 2: Zhenwei Jiangnan Breakfast → Miss Shen's Hanfu shop, try on Hanfu → Ancient costume photos → Water lane tour (by boat) → Xiangcun · Qizhuang → Flower field check-in → Xiangcun Bookshop, Xiangcun afternoon tea → Flower field RV camping picnic. Lunch: Quangonglou Fashion Restaurant → Accommodation: Xiangcun Qizhuang.

Day 3: Xiangcun · Qizhuang, Era Show B&B, Village History Museum → Tofu workshop hands-on experience. Lunch: Hefengli Restaurant.

1 The Water Town's Night and Morning

It's said that Zhouzhuang's early morning and night satisfy every dreamer's heart. Don't be lazy; wake up early to meet Zhouzhuang's spring. Only in the early morning can you see the real Zhouzhuang.

I couldn't wait to push open the courtyard gate and step onto the riverside blue stone path. The whole town was shrouded in a thin dawn mist, quiet as a bride whose veil has just been lifted, washing away all artifice, tenderness flowing like water. The Twin Bridges emerged just like in a painting: the larger bridge tall, the smaller low; the larger wide, the smaller narrow. The larger bridge's graceful arch, together with its reflection in the water.

Pedestrians were few and far between, the lives of the locals just beginning. In the light shifting from pale blue to soft pink, women with flower-patterned scarves on their heads washed rice and vegetables on the stone steps of the landing. Then, wisps of cooking smoke began to rise from the century-old riverside houses, the acrid scent of plant ash drifting in the air.

Gradually, the creaking and swaying of oars coalesced along the narrow waterways. On the stone paths worn by a millennium of footsteps, fisherwomen in blue-and-white floral clothes and headscarves began to bustle about.

I chose a riverside eatery for breakfast: a bowl of wontons, a steamer of crab roe soup dumplings, and fermented-rice osmanthus ball soup – all Jiangnan-style breakfast staples, enough to comfort my stomach. Good food, beautiful scenery, right before my eyes.

Strolling freely, without feeling crowded, soaking in the morning tranquility. Zhouzhuang's beauty lies in the early morning, in one morning dream after another, in the lives of its own people.

"Searching for her a thousand times, suddenly turning back, there she is, in the dim lamplight." I was also looking for Zhouzhuang as its lanterns first lit up.

Walking close to the water's edge, the night was enchantingly beautiful. Sitting casually in a tea drinker's seat by the water, you could order a cup of tea and appreciate the nocturnal Zhouzhuang. While sitting, you'd see the blinding red lanterns of the opposite wine shops and tea houses.

This was the dream water town at night, truly worthy of the title "China's No.1 Water Town." The winding deep lanes, the black-tiled wooden buildings, and the shops lining the streets all bustled with prosperity.

Lights along the street and filtering from the houses added brilliant colors to the night. Amid the variegated lamplight, the hazy water town night exuded boundless vitality. The Twin Bridges area is an excellent spot for night views.

The night was so beautiful; surely a master lighting designer had created such a moving evening gown for Zhouzhuang. Keen eyes might notice that in this exquisitely beautiful night scene, even the street lanterns are all unique. Gazing at the large red lanterns of the old town, my heart slowly calmed, leaving behind the city's dust and noise, savoring the pleasures of slow living.

At night, Flower Lane and Rain Lane were alive with drifting petals. From Fuhong Bridge to Zhenfeng Bridge, a light show with themes of Flower Lane and Rain Lane was created. Walking through it, you could taste the cultural essence of water-town life, with a fusion of lighting, installations, and interactive new media illuminating Zhouzhuang.

In the evening, I sat by a river-view window at Shen Hall Restaurant and tried the authentic Wansan Family Banquet.

2 Cultural Zhouzhuang

Nurtured by a thousand years of history, Zhouzhuang lies in the heart of the Jiangnan water country, between Shanghai, Hangzhou, and Suzhou. The town is a region of lakes, surrounded by water on all sides, where even the shortest trips require boats. It has preserved the quintessential Jiangnan water-town appearance and is renowned overseas.

When speaking of Jiangnan's ancient towns, bridges naturally come to mind. Zhouzhuang has prospered because of water, unceasing and full of life. Water is Zhouzhuang's lifeblood, and bridges are its soul and pride.

Zhouzhuang has the Twin Bridges, Fu'an Bridge, Tongxiu Bridge, Tiyun Bridge, Bao'en Bridge, Taiping Bridge, Quangong Bridge, Fuhong Bridge, and others.

The Twin Bridges are the iconic landmarks of Zhouzhuang. Also called Key Bridges, they are a must-see when visiting Zhouzhuang.

In the spring of 1984, the renowned Shanghai-born artist Chen Yifei, then living in the U.S., used the Twin Bridges as the backdrop for his oil painting "Memories of My Hometown." The ancient, simple bridges became even more charming under his brush, capturing Zhouzhuang's laziness, tranquility, and peace, frozen in that frame.

To gain deeper insight into a place, a museum is essential. The Zhouzhuang Museum is within the scenic area, not far from the entrance—I recommend a visit. Though it lacks the opulence of larger museums, it's a wonderful place to truly feel Zhouzhuang's culture.

Talking about Zhouzhuang's cultural stories, everyone thinks of Shen Wansan, the legendary tycoon who once dazzled the world.

In the mid-Yuan Dynasty, Shen You, father of the legendary wealthy merchant Shen Wansan, moved from Nanxun in Huzhou to Dongzhai Village east of Zhouzhuang. Through business, he gradually prospered, bringing vitality to Zhenfengli and forming the old marketplace centered on Fu'an Bridge along the North-South Canal.

Shen House was built by Shen Benren, a descendant of Shen Wansan, and completed in the 7th year of Emperor Qianlong's reign (1742). Originally named "Jingye Hall," it was renamed "Songmao Hall" in late Qing. Shen Wansan, original name Shen Fu, courtesy name Zhongrong, commonly known as Wansan, was a merchant in the late Yuan and early Ming dynasties who amassed wealth through overseas trade, becoming the richest man in Jiangnan.

Legend has it that Emperor Zhu Yuanzhang of the Ming once visited the Shen family, and Shen Wansan served him pork knuckle. Zhu deliberately made things difficult, asking what the dish was. Shen Wansan knew that answering truthfully—pork knuckle—would violate the emperor's name taboo. Quick-witted, he slapped his own thigh and said, "This is Wansan's knuckle," saving himself from the predicament, and the "Wansan Knuckle" dish was thus named.

Zhouzhuang's charm lies in its cultural depth. Landmarks like Zhang House, Milou, Ye Chucang's Former Residence, Chengxu Taoist Temple, and Quanfu Temple hold great historical, cultural, and sightseeing value.

Zhang House is one of the few surviving Ming Dynasty buildings in Zhouzhuang. Originally named Yishun Hall, it is said to have been built during the Zhengtong era of the Ming Dynasty by a descendant of Xu Kui, the younger brother of Xu Da (Prince of Zhongshan). In the early Qing, it was sold to the Zhang family and renamed Yuyan Hall, commonly known as Zhang House.

3 Better to Slow Down

Many visitors spend less than half a day in Zhouzhuang; I think that's far from enough. Stroll and pause at a leisurely pace, eat and observe, and feel Zhouzhuang's alternative slow life. Sitting by the river, sipping Grandma's Tea, listening to boatmen sing unique water-town tunes or even authentic Kunqu opera—it's a special flavor.

Walking along Zhouzhuang's Zhenfeng Street, you'll come across antique tea houses here and there. The ancient crafts and the pervading scent of tea imbue the whole street with Jiangnan's profound heritage.

Recommendation 1: Jubinlou Tea House

Why: A riverside tea house with a dedicated pingtan performance stage. Enjoy tea while watching authentic pingtan performances.

Time: 9:30–15:30 (performances at irregular intervals)

Location: Jubinlou Tea House (107 Zhongshi Street)

Repertoire: "Daiyu Buries Flowers," "New Ballad of Mulan," "Jiangnan Is Good," "Taihu Lake Is Beautiful," "Yang Naiwu and Xiao Baicai," "Plum and Bamboo," "Yingying Plays the Zither," "Meng Jiangnü," "Song of the Four Seasons," "Du Shiniang," etc.

Pingtan has a long history and was already popular during the Qianlong era. Jubinlou features a dedicated stage with two chairs and a table. The male performer plays the sanxian, the female the pipa; their handsome and beautiful performances elevate the tea house to an artistic realm.

Tea and pingtan are charged separately. A pot of Grandma's Tea, a few plates of snacks, sitting around with friends and family, chatting away fatigue while enjoying the pingtan. Classics like "Jiangnan Is Good," "Daiyu Buries Flowers," "Taihu Lake Is Beautiful," and "Du Shiniang" delight the ears—pure bliss.

Recommendation 2: Sanmao Tea House

Why: Sanmao once had tea here; a must for Sanmao fans.

In 1989, writer Sanmao visited Zhouzhuang and described her initial excitement at seeing it as "unforgettable." She drank tea here, had a delightful conversation with the elderly owner, and took photos together. After Sanmao passed away, the elderly couple, deeply saddened, renamed the place Sanmao Tea House in her memory. It feels as if Sanmao hasn't gone far; on the staircase wall, her words are posted: "A cup of clear tea, rinses the dusty heart. Go have tea." How well put—not only capturing the essence of tea but also a touch of Zen.

Recommendation 3: Lu Yun Agarwood

Why: Make sachets / incense ceremony experience.

Studying incense ceremony and tea arts to feel the subtlety of traditional culture is what Lu Yun Agarwood offers. Sit quietly, burn incense, taste tea, and experience the profundity of tea ceremony and incense ceremony.

The ancient crafts and the pervading scent of tea imbue the whole street with Jiangnan's profound heritage.

Recommendation 4: Cat's Sky (Maokong)

Why: Internet-famous, a must-check-in for artsy youth.

Maokong is a go-to spot for those with a taste for the petit bourgeois. Though in the scenic area, it still feels secluded from the world. It's great to bring kids and perfect for a rest. In the bustling street, having such a warm bookstore is truly lovely.

Here, I wrote my first letter to the future. I loved the setting—reading, pondering, daydreaming—you could spend a whole day without feeling bored.

4 Let's Time Travel

At Miss Shen's Hanfu Shop, after changing into the outfit, the assistant even helped style my hair and accessories. Dressing up in ancient costume must be many girls' dream. Wearing a traditional gown, wandering through the dreamy water town, strolling among Ming and Qing buildings, it felt like I'd traveled back in time.

Zhouzhuang offers endless settings for period photos. Beyond the small bridges, flowing canals, and misty lanes, Zhang House and Shen House are great choices. You can also board a rocking boat and experience the feeling of ancient travelers arriving in Zhouzhuang by water.

5 Carton King | Fun Life

Carton King is a Zhouzhuang internet sensation, located at 19 Quanfu Road in the ancient town. It sells paper-made items—from toys to tableware, from clothing to bags and hats, from lamps to architectural models—all made of paper. More precisely, it's a kingdom of paper products and a creative park.

At the entrance, cute Carton King figurines and adorable cats seem to wave at everyone, instantly drawing you into a fairy-tale world, making you step inside to explore its mysteries.

Each story pavilion feels like a wonderland of creative ideas. The various paper items, delicate and exquisite, are highly beloved. Besides the minimalist style, there's a strong environmental concept—all products are recyclable.

The outdoor area features miniature landmarks from around the world: the Eiffel Tower, the Leaning Tower of Pisa, the Burj Al Arab, all presented through paper sculpture. Take a ride on the little cardboard train around the yard, and you can travel the globe in a spin!

For lunch, I enjoyed the unique paper hotpot at Carton King, where the dishes and chairs are all made of corrugated cardboard.

Carton King also houses an inn: Latte Stone Art Inn, integrated with the creative park. Its location is great—close to the ancient town entrance, so visitors can easily access it without lugging luggage over long stretches of uneven stone paths.

6 Countryside Delights

If Zhouzhuang is the starting point of China's water-town dreams, then Xiangcun · Qizhuang, 7 kilometers from the ancient town, is the treasured original water village. Arriving here, I deeply felt how wealthy Suzhou people are—even the countryside is so stylish.

Green wheat fields encircle the village, trees cast shade, flower branches peek over walls, white-walled black-tiled houses reflect in the river, and ivy glistens faintly in the sun.

Stepping into Xiangcun · Qizhuang, every view unfolds like a quietly spreading poetic scroll.

Growing in the gentle breeze of the fields, hidden among ordinary homes, with the crow of roosters, the bark of dogs, the scent of fish and the aroma of rice...

Check-in spot 1: Xiangcun Flower Field Picnic

Xiangcun · Qizhuang has become a romantic flower field check-in spot. Such a ceremony-filled picnic in the flower fields is the perfect way to enjoy the beautiful spring light. Hidden outside the water town of Zhouzhuang, "Xiangcun" is another side of Zhouzhuang life!

Check-in spot 2: Xiangcun Bookshop, Afternoon Tea

The countryside nowadays is so comfortable! This village has a Xiangcun Bookshop where I enjoyed afternoon tea. One wall is lined with books, and the other side has large floor-to-ceiling windows bathed in sunlight. Even a village bookshop is this stylish, making people from small cities envious.

Check-in spot 3: Xiangcun Tofu Workshop

Here, fully experience the secluded tranquility of rural life and let time slow down.

At the tofu workshop, push the grindstone to grind soybeans and witness the birth of a block of tofu. Removing the bean dregs, filtering, pressing... Every step of mindful participation filled the heart with fulfillment.

Check-in spot 4: Era Show B&B

Xiangcun is another way of life in Zhouzhuang. Stay at the Era Show B&B and experience different old times from the 1960s to the 2000s.

We stayed in a two-story renovated old house with three rooms, ideal for several families traveling with children to rent the whole building.

The B&B practices hotel-style unified management and offers meal ordering, so you can dine right in the B&B.

Jiangnan is good; I've long known its scenery. At sunrise, the river's flowers are redder than fire; in spring, the river's water is as green as indigo. How could I not remember Jiangnan?

This spring, why not come to Zhouzhuang and seek out the Jiangnan water town of our dreams?