Three Days and Two Nights: A Close Encounter with the Enchanting Taihu Lake
Amidst the urban hustle and bustle, we always crave a serene spot to soothe our souls. This time, we find ourselves in Wuzhong, Suzhou, to bask in the boundless charm of Taihu Lake. The lake is dotted with 48 islets and 72 peaks, each with its own character. Taihu Bridge, stretching from Yuyang Mountain in the east to West Dongting Mountain in the west, arches over the lake like a jade belt, linking the islets in a breathtaking spectacle. It’s often said that the beauty of Taihu Lake lies above all in its waters — and that’s no exaggeration. Our trip to Wuzhong was blessed with picture-perfect weather, and every photo looked like it came with a built-in filter. The lake and mountains were simply stunning. Taihu Lake is a beauty with no bad angles; no matter where you stand, you'll witness its splendor. Whether you climb Yuyang Pavilion to gaze out at the lake, or head to Yuyang Wharf to enjoy an open-air movie and a joyful family gathering, there are countless ways to have fun at Taihu Lake — and I want you to try them all. Sit leisurely by the water and watch the clouds drift by, or sip a cup of Biluochun tea while your thoughts wander. Time slows down here, and your heart turns tender.
The scenery of Taihu Lake is splendid, and the local delicacies are even more abundant. Each season brings its own flavor: flowers in spring, moon views in autumn, fruits in summer, and snowscapes in winter. Suzhou, long famed as the 'land of fish and rice,' offers culinary delights you simply must savor. Take the famous 'Three Whites of Taihu' — the white fish, whitebait, and white shrimp — incredibly tender and fresh. The area also abounds in tangerines, loquats, bayberries, water shield (chun cai), lotus root, and fox nuts (qian shi). Your taste buds are in for a treat. Water is the soul of Jiangnan, and the graceful water of Taihu shimmers with the vibrant spirit of Wu culture. Numerous historical sites, rich cultural relics, poems, and paintings left by literati add to its depth. The preservation of intangible cultural heritage and outstanding creative products showcase Wuzhong's commitment to cultural support and growth. Charming boutique hotels and fine cafés dot the lakeside, adding countless pleasures for visitors.
I’ve invited good friends along to Wuzhong, Suzhou, for a three-day, two-night journey. Follow me as I relive this wonderful trip. Day 1: check into Suzhou Taihu Marriott Hotel — Yuyang Bay — dinner at Wan Li Xuan Chinese restaurant. Day 2: hotel breakfast — Yuyang Mountain — Yuyang Pavilion — lunch at Xiangshan Weidao Chinese restaurant — Taihu Lakeside National Wetland Park — Flower Season Coffee — visit to the International Conference Center — Yuyang Wharf — check in at Hu Yi Guesthouse. Day 3: visit Tai Mei Yijun Hotel — Taihu Blue Marathon Course — lunch and visit at Tai Mei Xue Lü Guesthouse — Zhoushan He-Diao Village and intangible cultural heritage crafts.
Day 1: Check into Suzhou Taihu Marriott Hotel
Drift off to sleep with the lake before you, at the Suzhou Taihu Marriott Hotel. The room’s natural tones are soothing, like a relaxing escape into nature yet with a modern touch. From your room, you can take in the shimmering lake and mountain scenery — if the weather cooperates, it’s utterly uplifting. The property frames beautiful Taihu views, blending local stone and colours into contemporary design. Guestrooms, suites, and villas by renowned designers all feature a glowing turquoise accent. The lobby is grand yet simple, with greenery adding a lively feel and bright leather sofas lifting the entire space. Sitting here with a book is pure bliss. Rooms have a natural palette, large balconies, and overlook the golf course and Taihu. The bedding is supremely comfortable, ensuring good sleep. The bathroom separates wet and dry areas, with a large round bathtub for a spa-like soak to wash away fatigue. Each morning, you’re awakened by natural sunlight — no morning grumpiness, just renewed energy to start the day. The hotel also has a 415-square-metre kids’ club, perfect for families and a great spot for children to burn off energy. The Marriott and the adjacent Renaissance Hotel are interconnected, with some shared facilities. The Marriott feels more business-oriented, while the Renaissance is sweeter and more suited for holidays. The Marriott’s lobby was inspired by the twinkling fishing lights on Taihu, with floor-to-ceiling glass walls pouring in natural light. Frosted glass partitions ensure privacy while keeping the dining area airy. The hotel also offers a pool and gym, so you can keep up your workouts. There’s even a bowling alley, a chess and card room — entertainment is well taken care of, so no worries about passing the time. Indoor amusement areas, outdoor gardens, and over 500 square metres of lawn create perfect fun spots. The two hotels together boast eight distinctive restaurants and bars, and four swimming pools, including one for children.
A newly discovered niche spot at Yuyang Bay: a tiny wooden door leads you in, and suddenly it’s like entering a whole new world. A vast lawn is dotted with white tents for glamping. Beyond the tents lies a lake, lush with water plants, with water sports gear resting nearby. It’s a great place to bring kids closer to nature, with public restrooms and showers for convenience. More and more city dwellers are escaping the clamour to commune with nature, and camping is a perfect way. If you happen to catch a crayfish festival, even better — gather with mates, sip draft beer, and peel spicy crayfish; life doesn’t get much better. There are also plenty of water activities and CS paintball games. So, beyond gazing at the scenery from your tent, there’s much to do — ideal for family trips, friend get-togethers, or parent-child outings.
Refined dinner at Wan Li Xuan
When staying at the Renaissance, a feast at the Black Pearl One-diamond Wan Li Xuan restaurant is a must. Using local ingredients with creative culinary techniques, it’s worth a special trip just for the food. Water shield is a local specialty, so be sure to try the Taihu Water Shield and Fish Rice Soup. A dish that looks like a cherry but tastes like foie gras — smooth as mousse. Pickled cherry tomatoes are sweet and tangy. Stir-fried garden vegetables: seemingly ordinary but a delightful surprise, with cured tiny silver fish adding umami. Sweet-and-sour squirrel-shaped mandarin fish needs no introduction — crispy, tender, and flavourful. The gold-medal braised pork belly wins on appearance alone; there’s a way to eat it: pick up one end and pull out a whole long slice, then wrap it in a steamed bun with some vegetables for extra taste. Whitebait steamed egg: eggs with delicate whitebait, incredibly fresh. The liquid custard buns are exquisite — one bite and the golden liquid filling flows out. Coconut and peach gum sweet soup is a refreshing dessert, with chewy coconut and slippery peach gum, just lightly sweetened. And the sea urchin and scallion tofu: another dish bursting with fresh umami.
Awakened by nature’s sounds, then breakfast at the Food Studio buffet, where both Chinese and Western options cater to every preference. Dining amid a circle of trees sets a happy mood. After breakfast, we set off for the second day.
Climb Yuyang Pavilion for a distant view
Yuyang Pavilion is in the Yuyang Mountain Scenic Area, surrounded by water on three sides and offering stunning scenery. The mountain’s name originates from the tale of Wu Zixu: when he fled Chu to Wu, an old fisherman rescued him. After he achieved fame, he settled the fisherman’s descendants here — ‘Yuyang’ blends ‘fisherman’s grace’ (Yu) with ‘vast as the ocean’ (Yang). Climb Yuyang Pavilion for a lofty view; on a clear day, you can see Taihu Bridge linking the islets, and Dawning Hill (Dongshan) and West Hill (Xishan), with deep blue water that fills your heart with joy. The pavilion’s second floor, themed ‘Poetry and Painting of Vast Taihu,’ gathers poems and paintings by artists through the ages. In the main hall hangs a jade-and-lacquer carved mural of Su Dongpo’s ‘Ode to Dongting Spring Scenery’ — 9 metres long and 2.2 metres wide, it’s the world’s largest jade-lacquer carving. Designed over three years and crafted by Suzhou lacquer masters and Liaoning jade masters, it draws on Su Shi’s nostalgic poem and paintings from the Wu School, plus the bustle of the Taihu fishing season. The third floor displays works by Wu School masters on Taihu themes, including the nation’s largest overall lacquer painting, Shen Zhou’s ‘Two Mountains of Dongting.’ The fourth floor houses the largest porcelain plate painting ever fired in Jingdezhen, ‘Fishing Rhymes,’ and nine traditional stone engravings, ‘Illustrations of Yuyang Mountain Legends.’ On the fifth, top floor is a bell tower with a gold-plated bronze bell, ‘Tai Fu Ji Xiang Zhong,’ and jade zodiac bells. The cable car ride down the mountain treats you to gorgeous views, with Taihu’s beauty unfolding before you and the lush green of Yuyang Mountain behind you. Gazing far from Yuyang Pavilion is an excellent way to take in Taihu and its islets — open vistas, crystal-clear air, pure relaxation.
Flavours of Xiangshan Weidao
At the Xiangshan Weidao restaurant inside the International Conference Center, a bowl of refreshing mung bean soup kicked off our sumptuous meal, a perfect antidote to the scorching outdoor heat. Salted freshwater shrimp: a seasonal star and nearly mandatory on every table. Lotus leaf steamed pork ribs: tender, fragrant with lotus leaf, sticky rice wrapping the meat — wonderfully soft and sticky. Hand-torn black pork ribs: crispy, aromatic, and tender. Sautéed beef cubes with asparagus and lily bulbs: beef is tender, asparagus crisp. Featuring seasonal vegetables and high-quality meats, this was a feast in every sense.
Get close to nature: Taihu Lakeside National Wetland Park
To intimately appreciate Taihu’s beauty, head to Taihu Lakeside National Wetland Park. Board a yacht and cruise the lake, threading through water plants and reeds, swimming alongside birds, ducks, and fish. Once again blessed with beautiful weather — cloudless sky, still air, mirror-like water. The scorching sun couldn’t dim the magnificent scenery! The azure sky reflected in the water, dyeing it a deep blue. Here you can breathe the fresh oxygen, floating on a boat and drinking in the shimmering lake light. The lake was a perfect mirror, reflecting landscapes and figures vividly. The iconic wooden windmill stands out on the water; walking along the wooden boardwalk, you can see the crystal-clear water with fish swimming freely. The heat didn’t deter visitors eager to boat on Taihu, with wave after wave embarking to enjoy the views. The area is home to 132 bird species across 9 orders and 32 families, 33 fish species in 8 orders and 14 families, plus reptiles and mammals — testament to its healthy ecosystem. Summer’s passion clothes this water in blue skies and blue reflections; in winter, it would be a serene snow-blanketed scene. The windmill is the wetland park’s emblem, visible from every angle like a ‘wheel of life.’ Boating along, the six-masted junks rest by the shore like a still painting, adding mystery to the water’s surface. The vibrant environment draws birds to nest. As our yacht passed, a flock of egrets resting near the reeds took flight in a flurry, their graceful movements transforming into a living ink-wash scroll — these are the spirits of this tranquil haven. Yi Di Xuan is a tea house near the wetland, beautiful with mostly wooden furnishings in a modern Chinese style. Sit here sipping Biluochun, one of China’s top ten teas, accompanied by the rippling Taihu — pure leisurely bliss. If tea houses suit the older crowd, coffee shops are a young person’s favourite. Flower Season Coffee by the lake feels like a Wizard of Oz scene, lush with flowers and greenery. The aroma of coffee drifts far. A perfect afternoon retreat. Rumor has it the pastry chef graduated from Le Cordon Bleu in France, so their desserts are likely divine.
Flower Season Coffee afternoon tea: pure relaxation
By Taihu and shaded by green trees, a leisurely afternoon tea is today’s little joy. The decor is distinctive: a wooden outdoor deck for diners, an American retro interior, and a small jungle-like yard paired with modern black-and-white grid tables — a mix that feels utterly comfortable. Laze here with a couple of desserts and coffee, living like immortals. Earl Grey tea chiffon cake: the cream is lovely, not overly sweet with restrained powdered sugar, the chiffon is just right — soft and fluffy. The cream and chiffon harmonize perfectly. Raspberry raw chocolate: smooth, melts in the mouth, the raspberry adding refreshing sweetness. Hazelnut matcha chees mousse: a tad sweeter, the mousse is fine and fragrant, yet the hazelnut crunch elevates the texture. Flower Season blend coffee has a slight bitterness, a perfect companion to the sweets.
The breathtaking Suzhou Taihu International Conference Center
Even at the serious Suzhou Taihu International Conference Center, there’s an unbeatable viewing spot. Step onto the conference center’s platform and gaze at Taihu — the beauty is overwhelming, vast blue waters stretching away. It gives every attendee a chance to forget work stress and simply feel at ease. Outdoors, nearly five lakeside lawns are ideal for outdoor weddings, romantic and wonderfully unconventional. The center houses four large halls — Taihu, Hehe, Gusu, and Piaomiao — plus over 20 multifunctional rooms of various sizes, all column-free and flexible. Taihu Hall spans 2,500 sq m with a 10-metre ceiling, accommodating 1,500 diners or 3,000 attendees. Hehe Hall, 1,400 sq m, can seat 800 for dining or 1,800 for meetings.
Yuyang Wharf: enjoy a breezy Taihu evening
The ground floor is a music bar with a huge lakeside terrace right by the wharf. We happened upon a crayfish festival; the spacious deck was packed with diners, and an open-air movie was playing — it was Fast & Furious that night. Crayfish plus beer plus outdoor movie — truly the essence of summer. This place is also great for team-building; the ground-floor music restaurant has karaoke. At the entrance, there are entertainment facilities like billiards. There’s also a guesthouse here called Hu Yi, which likely means ‘lakeside station.’ Rest a night in this simple, clean, budget-friendly inn. The next morning, a bowl of plain noodles — a refreshing start to the day.
Day 3: Seclusion in the hills, Tai Mei Yijun Hotel
There are so many beautiful lakeside hotels; Tai Mei Yijun is a high-end, light-luxury hotel. Nestled halfway up a hill, it faces Taihu with its back to the mountain — the location is unbeatable. The hotel consists of standalone villas in different styles: Li Shu, Qing, and Guang Yao, representing Chinese, Southeast Asian, and Japanese styles respectively. Staying here feels like a true secluded life in the mountains, surrounded by lush hills and gurgling waters, peaceful and undisturbed at night. The lobby exudes Zen vibes: landscape screens, floor-to-ceiling windows, hushed and mysterious. The warm, enthusiastic welcome at the entrance is a striking contrast. Here you can enjoy tea, stargaze, and soak in the greenery, recharging your spirit enough to withstand the urban grind. That’s why we need regular breaks, to come to such picturesque places and empty our minds. If you stay in the Japanese-style courtyard villa Guang Yao, it has two bedrooms, a tea room, and a private terrace — you can even rent yukatas for photos, instantly transporting you to ancient Kyoto. The wooden rooms, decorative paintings, and lamps are all carefully chosen, showing great attention to detail. The Southeast Asian-style rooms whisk you away to a Balinese holiday: cosy, simple interiors, large balconies that still capture the mountain and lake vistas. Rooms have standalone bathtubs — so relaxing for a soak. The Chinese-style villa has an outdoor pool with wide views of Taihu, perfect for gatherings or family trips, offering absolute privacy and top-notch service. The villa called Li Shu has its own pool: imagine swimming while drinking in the view — how free! This hillside hotel is truly a gem by Taihu, ideal for a restorative escape from the noise.
A scenic course: Taihu Blue Marathon Course
The Taihu Ring Road is the best way to enjoy Taihu views by car, and along it, you’ll find a stretch of vibrant blue. What does blue signify? Mystery, tranquillity, tolerance? Is it the sea, the sky, your blue jeans, or the very colour of Taihu? Blue carries many meanings, and here, it’s a blue running track. Sports enthusiasts, both amateur and professional, flock here to start a marathon on the shores of beautiful Taihu. Taihu Blue — lake light on the left, mountain views on the right. Come cycling here for a picture-perfect journey. Running a marathon in such a setting seems to give you extra energy, as if fatigue is forgotten while simply admiring the scenery. Driving along the road, we still encountered cycling and motorcycling groups, equally drawn by Taihu’s charm.
Lakeside hideaway: Tai Mei Xue Lü Guesthouse
Countless pretty guesthouses dot the lakeside; here’s one to recommend: Tai Mei Xue Lü (Green Snow). Even the name sounds beautiful. It’s a serene retreat tucked between mountains and lake, blending with nature. Whether in the sunken lobby or the lush green courtyard, you feel that time is gentle. Classic white walls and black tiles, a fusion of tradition and modernity. The lobby lounge features a long solid-wood table and unique stools shaped like wine cups. A small study has bean bags for lounging and reading, and likely a projector for movies. The most memorable part is the soaring loft lobby with a sunken reading area, where natural light floods in — strikingly elegant. Leaning against the hills and overlooking the lake, the guesthouse commands a prime Taihu view, vast and graceful, making it a perfect sunset-watching spot. Behind it, a private forest adds quiet seclusion. The owner clearly has refined taste. The whole place enchants: refreshing green and clean white, tastefully dotted with plants. The outdoor courtyard is tidy and pure, white and green everywhere. A small white hammock invites you to lie back lazily; you might accidentally doze off. Every corner is photogenic — any spot is a lovely backdrop. Any window frames a beautiful painting. No noise, only the quiet of lake and nature. As summer approaches, the trees are lush and green, evoking memories of cicada-filled summers. Bring your loved one to see the emerald water of Taihu and the most romantic sunset. The room appliances and amenities are of great quality: Dyson hairdryer, a Mini J fridge, custom towels and umbrella. Comfortable, clean beds and a full set of Ahava toiletries. Every room has its own view; from one window, you see a green bamboo grove that soothes the eyes. Sitting here, even doing nothing, you feel at peace. The hotel serves farmhouse-style meals (pre-order, around 100+ yuan per person for a generous spread). The in-house restaurant’s dishes are refined and special: a signature mixed fish stew with crucian carp and yellow catfish, blending Northeast and Su styles. By Taihu, you can’t miss the fresh white shrimp — incredibly sweet and tender, and now is the season for shrimp roe, offering a unique texture. The chicken soup is so flavourful you’ll down two bowls. Fox nuts stir-fried with lily bulbs and some beans is refreshing and nutritious. Plain white broth noodles with thin noodles are clean and satisfying — just how I like it. Braised pork with potatoes is tender and fragrant. Honestly, this guesthouse is a hidden gem by Taihu.
This Zhoushan is not the coastal Zhoushan in Zhejiang, but a village near Taihu in Suzhou, famed for its he-diao (pit carving). Nestled at the foot of Qionglong Mountain and facing Taihu to the south, Zhoushan is the birthplace of modern he-diao. Around 3,000 people here are engaged in the craft. Around 80% of the domestic market’s he-diao products come from Zhoushan. From olive pit collection and processing to carving, sales, and even tool-making, a complete industry chain has formed, making he-diao the village’s pillar. Enter the grand traditional archway, and you’re in Zhoushan He-Diao Village — the name ‘Zhoushan’ prominent on it. We were fortunate to meet Zhou Jianming, a national-level representative inheritor of this intangible cultural heritage. Born in Guangfu’s Zhoushan village, he entered a craft factory as a child to learn he-diao and has stuck with it for decades, winning many awards. He’s taught over a hundred apprentices and tirelessly promoted he-diao culture, bringing Zhoushan he-diao nationwide. Spending a lifetime perfecting one craft — this is the best interpretation of the artisan spirit. We watched him carve on the spot, focused and meticulous, with nearly thirty different knives; finer details require more tools. With his skilled hands, ordinary olive pits become artworks — the result of years of accumulation and persistence. A piece can take anywhere from two or three days to dozens. The he-diao process includes: 1) selecting the pit, 2) designing, 3) rough-shaping, 4) outlining, 5) rough carving, 6) fine detailing, 7) facial features, 8) refining, 9) sanding, 10) polishing, 11) drilling eyes, 12) stringing, 13) making the base, 14) packaging. Only after such intricate steps can you have an exquisite he-diao piece. Next, we visited the Suzhou He-Diao Art Museum, which detailed the craft’s origins, development, and current state. He-diao encompasses olive, peach, apricot, and bayberry pit carving — among them, olive pit carving is a key category and the pinnacle of the art, requiring pits that meet basic criteria for shape, colour, and hardness. The art of he-diao is linked to ancient Chinese traditions of wearing carved pendants and carrying curios. It stands as a unique folk art genre and was added to the national intangible cultural heritage list in 2008. It captures the grand in the miniature, beauty in the tiny, blending elements of painting, micro-carving, and woodcraft. Chinese he-diao is broadly divided into northern and southern schools. The northern school, or ‘Bei Gong,’ mainly uses walnuts and peach pits from Shandong and Hebei. The southern school, or ‘Nan Gong / Su Gong,’ specializes in olive pit carving from Suzhou. Each has its strengths: northern he-diao emphasizes organic, irregular texture and on-the-spot inspiration; southern he-diao shares the refined, delicate aesthetic of other Suzhou crafts, with detailed, lively, and expressive figures and a gentle, graceful air typical of the southern region. Old and new artisans exchange ideas, making he-diao culture vibrant and diverse.
Three days passed swiftly, and we barely glimpsed a fraction of Wuzhong Taihu’s beauty. The lake’s shimmering light and blue waters colour life brightly. Whether climbing high for a panoramic view, camping and stargazing at close range, or simply staying at a fine hotel or exquisite guesthouse by the lake to truly enjoy the slow Su-style life — all are wonderful ways. The rich Wu culture is vibrant and unforgettable, and the intangible heritage crafts are astonishing. Seasonal delicacies, traditional ingredients with creative twists, are a feast for the palate. In my heart, Wuzhong is breathtakingly beautiful, beckoning you to return again and again.
