Savoring Tongli — Streets, Lanes, and Bridges

Travel time: 2021.3

Travel method: self-driving

Nanjing — Tongli Ancient Town in Suzhou (Tuisi Garden — Lize Girls' School — Wang Shaoliu Memorial Hall — Pearl Tower — Chuanxin Alley)

Suzhou Tongli Ancient Town (Jiayin Hall — Chongben Hall — Gengle Hall — Luoxing Islet) — Tongli Beilian Village — Suzhou Luzhi (Baosheng Temple — Shen Bohan Former Residence — Rice Store — Jiangnan Culture Park) — Nanjing

Tongli Ancient Town's ticket (100 RMB per person) includes several scenic spots within the town; entering these grand houses and courtyards requires ticket checks. But the ancient town itself is a natural attraction, and the unenclosed scenery is the most authentic, the picture that most readily resonates with us.

Tongli Town is one of the six famous ancient towns in Jiangnan; since the Song and Yuan dynasties, the streets have used the term "dai" (embankments). During the Ming and Qing dynasties, the southeastern part of the town was a residential area. Tongli currently has eight main streets: Zhuhang Street, Fuguan Street, Xintian Street, Shangyuan Street, Sanyuan Street, Dongxi Street, Yuhang Street, and Nanxin Street. Any ancient town in Jiangnan must have water, and Tongli is embraced by five lakes. With water come bridges, and the town is linked by 49 bridges, with those from the Song, Yuan, Ming, and Qing dynasties still well preserved. Hence, every household fronts the water and every door leads to a boat. Let's explore the streets, lanes, and small bridges spanning the waterways.

Tongli's streets are ancient: "Five li in area, over a thousand households," with winding streets and deep-walled, high-courtyard residences, lending the old streets an air of quiet mystery.

The Tongli Visitor Center sits in a corner of the square.

Near the south entrance is a centuries-old street of Ming and Qing style. Its high archway is imposing; the four characters "明清风韵" (Charm of Ming and Qing) are inlaid on the antique, dignified, and towering gateway, creating a sense of remoteness and timelessness from afar. Two mighty stone lions stand guard on either side of the archway.

Mingqing Street got its name from the Ming and Qing style buildings lining both sides. Stretching 160 meters, the street retains its original flagstone pavement, and most buildings date from the Ming and Qing periods, preserving their original architectural features. Along the way, shops are row upon row, some selling local specialties, some displaying calligraphy and paintings, some hanging exquisite handicrafts, and others offering freshly made aromatic snacks.

Our inn was on Zhuhang Street, beside Tailai Bridge. At the east end of the old street stands a high archway; the western gatehead bears the inscription "懋迁百货" (Abundant Goods), meaning plentiful merchandise. Classical-style buildings are arranged in an orderly fashion. The old street is bustling, lined with earthy shops: local restaurants, specialty stores, and various inns.

The inn gave us a second-floor room, and pushing open the window was delightful. From there, we could see the town's distinctive residences: bluestone slab roads, two-story buildings with red window frames and grey roof tiles. We could hear the clatter of pots and pans, a mother calling her child, truly savoring the pulse of everyday life in the old town.

Downstairs was the Wine Jar Restaurant, a local eatery with authentic flavors.

Between the streets, there are many alleyways, such as Youjia Alley, Chuanxin Alley, Tongtai Alley, Xi Alley, Cangjian Alley, etc. This is Nanhao Alley, connecting Tuisi Garden to the girls' school. Small flagstones are laid in an artistic pattern, forming a picturesque lane. The lane is long and narrow, with a mottled high courtyard wall on one side and houses full of lively atmosphere on the other.

Tongli boasts over a hundred old lanes of varying lengths, most paved with stone slabs. Some have towering walls on both sides, some are wide, some narrow.

Among them, Chuanxin Alley, only one meter wide, is the most famous.

The lane twists and turns, deep and secluded; in some spots, only one person can pass. You can experience the feeling of squeezing sideways past someone in the alley, as well as the almost hermit-like tranquility within.

Every bend in the alley brings a delightful surprise of hidden charm. Three hundred meters long, the alley is paved with 345 flagstones. The lane winds forward, and the stone slabs are intentionally uneven, leaving gaps of various sizes, so that footsteps produce a lovely sound as one walks.

Wandering through these slender, deep alleys, the splotchy moss traces whisper stories of the homes and years within.

In Tongli's first-class protected area, seven-tenths of the buildings are Ming and Qing architecture. Over 400 years of cultural sites, relics, traces, and customs endure; imposing houses, courtyards, and garden villas are everywhere. Beyond the ticketed attractions, whether along the streets or within the lanes, old mansions are common. On Dongxi Street stands a historically distinctive building — Tongli Jingsi Hall, now serving as both the Tongli boat ride service center and the Tongli Federation of Literary and Art Circles. The old house continues its mission, multitasking as ever.

On Liuwei in the east of Tongli, there is the former site of the Taihu Lake Water Conservancy Tongzhi Office, with a brief introduction sign in front. Commonly known as the Tongzhi Yamen.

The sixth wing of the site has been turned into the Taihu Water Conservancy Exhibition Hall, but unfortunately, when I passed by, it was locked, and I couldn't enter.

The fourth wing is now the Jingyitang Inn. Spending a night in such a historically storied compound and imagining the scenes of the old mansion is an experience in itself, isn't it?

A Catholic church stands on Hongziwei Bei Dai in Tongli, facing the river to the north, built in 1907 (the 32nd year of the Qing Guangxu reign).

Throughout the ancient town are antique waterside inns and Ming and Qing residences. No. 196 Yuhang Street is a Shen family mansion from the late Qing and early Republic period. In the Wujiang area, the Shen clan was prominent, and even today, Shen remains the largest surname in Tongli. Now this mansion is the Huazhu Luxury · Tongli Mingyuan Guesthouse.

No. 198 Yuhang Street is the Youqi Inn; a row of yellow lanterns lights up the long, narrow hallway, quietly radiating the cozy warmth of the old house.

Along the riverbank, there are distinctive inns and small shops that look antique yet blend with modernity.

Lanterns of various colors bearing shop names hang in the lanes, evoking a sense of ancient charm.

Selling homemade snacks through their own windows is one of the locals' ways of life.

Most of Tongli's buildings are built close to the water, overlooking the canals.

More mottled walls, roof tiles thick with moss, and some weathered, faded wooden doors — every scene resembles a unique ink wash painting.

White walls covered in moss have turned ink-dark, depicting the wear of time.

Verdant plants thrive on the eaves, delicate flowers swaying in the breeze, adding a special grace.

Though Tongli sells tickets, the majority of residents still live within the town; aside from the scenic spots and inns, most houses are inhabited by locals, so walking the streets and lanes, you constantly feel the rhythm of daily life.

The town’s dogs are utterly unfazed by tourists, calmly going about their business.

Tongli is surrounded by water on all sides, with 15 crisscrossing canals that meander through the town. Stone bridges of all kinds span the waterways. Standing on a bridge, you can take in the beauty of the intersecting canals. Leaning on the railing, you see boats plying the water lanes, coming and going.

With many rivers come many bridges: over 40 large and small bridges, most built in various eras after the Song dynasty. The ancient bridges from the Song, Yuan, Ming, and Qing are well preserved, earning the town the reputation of "Little Venice of the East" with its layout of small bridges, flowing water, and houses.

The bridges in Tongli, some high, some low, are all related to the boats that navigate the waterways. Tailai Bridge, leading from Zhuhang Street, connects east to Tongli Lake and west through the town's main waterway to Pangshan Lake; it was part of the water route for ferries and steamers traveling from Luxu and Xinta to Suzhou, so it was built higher to accommodate taller boats. Already tall, the bridge was made even more imposing by the large bamboo canopy with a square pavilion atop it.

Just a few steps from Tailai Bridge is a three-arch stone bridge — Zhongchuan Bridge.

Standing on the lofty Tailai Bridge gives a bird’s-eye view of the water town. A historic and typical Jiangnan-style ancient town unfolds before you. In the distance, Shengping Bridge, along with its reflection, hangs like a full moon over the river.

Gazing down from the bridge at the wooden boats gliding by, looking across at the whole expanse of eaves, white walls and dark tiles — water, sound, and air all carry an ancient charm.

Inside the town, along the newly built embankments, the bridges are lower because only ordinary small peasant boats pass through.

The most famous are undoubtedly the Three Bridges of Tongli. The three ancient stone bridges — Taiping Bridge, Jili Bridge, and Changqing Bridge — are the treasures among Tongli’s bridges. The three bridges are within 50 meters of each other, built in the Ming and Qing dynasties respectively. Arranged in a triangular shape, they span the confluence of three rivers, naturally forming a circular walking route. The bridges are small and exquisite, elegantly charming yet rustic and weather-beaten. The water is clear as a mirror, the little bridges arch like rainbows over waves, with shimmering reflections.

Along the river are blue-stone embankments, shaded by green trees. Stone railings line both sides, boats come and go, and the bridges teem with pedestrians — a lively scene.

Standing on the bridge and looking at the scenery: the stone embankments, the single or double landing steps, the mooring stones set into the embankments for tying up boats, the neatly laid block-stone roads, the waterside homes, and the red lanterns under the eaves create a captivating picture.

A small boat with a few cormorants enlivens the waterway.

Along both banks, a row of shops invites you to sip tea, chat, listen to music, and walk the Three Bridges.

Walking through Tongli, bridges are everywhere; you're constantly crossing them. These bridges are not just for convenience — every bridge is exquisitely crafted. Even their names carry profound meaning, such as Tailai Bridge, Sanyuan Bridge, Yuhang Bridge, Shengping Bridge...

A fallen tree along the water's edge caught my eye; it too seems deeply in love with Tongli’s river, stretching out as far as it can to embrace it.

This beam-style three-arch stone bridge is called Zhongyuan Bridge.

Besides the countless ancient bridges and alleys, Tongli has another distinctive feature — covered walkways. A covered walkway, or "langpeng," is a roofed street. Built primarily of brick and wood, with uniform dark tiles, they run along the river, providing shelter from sun and rain and a place to pause and enjoy the view. One side of the covered walkway is lined with shops selling specialties, ornaments, snacks, and residences, while the other side faces the river. Some walkways have benches with backrests for resting tired feet. Sipping tea, having a drink, eating, or chatting under the covered walkway is a unique pleasure.

Standing on Shengping Bridge and gazing east along Shangyuangang River, you can see the lovely pair of bridges formed by Tailai Bridge and Zhongchuan Bridge. Tailai Bridge rises tall, while Zhongchuan Bridge lies low and flat — a rather distinctive double-bridge scene.

Tongli is home to many ancient bridges built in different eras. These bridges have stood tall through the wind and rain of ages. Hard and cold as they are, they have softened and become warm and affectionate over the long years. They are the living history of the old town.

Here, streets are formed by the river, linked by bridges, houses are built along the water, and the water town blends into one. Tongli’s bridges and flagstone lanes are architectural elements rich in Jiangnan charm — well worth slowing down to stroll and savor slowly.