Those Unforgettable Reed Marshes Hide a Shajiabang Where Drama Unfolds at Every Step

The story of Shajiabang is most famously about the ever-so-clever A Qing Sao and the 'Battle of Wits' at Chunlai Teahouse, which single-handedly made the place name spread far and wide. In fact, there was no 'Shajiabang' originally; it became a legendary place because of a play.

During the day in Shajiabang:

① Take a hand-rowed boat through the dense reed marsh, sing a folk song, and enjoy the cool breeze!

② Visit Shasilong Fish Paradise to try lifting-net fishing and fishing for crabs!

③ Don't miss the live show 'Fire in the Reed Marsh' at the Reed Marsh Theater.

④ In the afternoon, head to Hengjing Old Street; have a glass of soy milk at Shahaopo Bean Shop, and a bowl of big wontons at Pixian Yujian Dang.

Shajiabang's night, the Hengjing Never-Night, is well worth the wait. After watching the sunset on Hengjing Old Street, linger on the city wall for a splendid nightfall. As the lanterns begin to glow, it's a night you'll hate to leave. Then, from 7pm, three immersive shows fill the Shajiabang night with fantasy and excitement!

19:00–19:25: 'Iron Flowers, Loyal Hearts' at Reed Marsh Theater

19:30–20:00: 'Night in the Reed Marsh' at Hengjing Old Street

20:05–20:30: 'Secret War · Shajiabang' at Hengjing Theater

Taking a hand-rowed boat is a must-do in Shajiabang. As you glide through the dense reeds, listen to the boatwoman sing a folk tune, watch the wind tousle the graceful reeds; their rustic charm reveals a captivating tenderness. It's hard to imagine this was once a battlefield.

In this wild, water-born reed marsh stretching skyward, I got the feeling that Shajiabang seemed to rise straight from the water. Immersed in this boundless sea of reeds, my heart was bursting with vitality, drifting with the ripples and swaying in the breeze...

When you come to the Jiangnan water region, you must try the fresh river delicacies. Visit Shasilong Fish Paradise to try lifting-net fishing and fishing for crabs—a unique kind of travel fun, especially for family outings. It feels like returning to childhood, going barefoot in a creek, covered in mud, fishing for crayfish with a bamboo pole. This time, though, we were fishing for hairy crabs!

At 11 a.m., wisps of smoke rose from the Reed Marsh Theater in Shajiabang as the show 'Fire in the Reed Marsh' was about to begin. Those stories set in the reeds seemed to creep into vague, almost tangible memories.

The story roughly tells how the soldiers and civilians in the Shajiabang area united, with A Qing Sao's clever scheming, to engage in a life-or-death struggle against the enemy and successfully shelter wounded soldiers of the New Fourth Army. The adaptation includes some humorous segments; amid the tension, a little relaxation is welcome. Using modern high-tech effects, realistic gunfire sounds, and stunts with watercraft, the live performance is truly spectacular.

Show times: daily at 11:00 and 14:00.

Tucked away in Shajiabang is Hengjing Old Street, with whitewashed walls and black tiles, little bridges over flowing streams, and homes by the reeds... Stone Bay folk songs hum softly, and the bluestone paths are steeped in the ages. Stepping onto Hengjing Old Street is like walking into a misty Jiangnan. Old Jiangnan streets always carry a certain indescribable nostalgia. Perhaps it's because the lanes still hold the flavors left by time; no matter how years pass, the memories on your tongue never change.

Just like at Shahaopo Bean Shop, a bowl of stinky tofu and a bowl of sweet soy milk are heavenly delights, flavors forever etched in memory. 'Haopo' is the local Changshu dialect for granny. Granny Sha is also an important character in Shajiabang. So when you stroll Hengjing Old Street in the afternoon, be sure to pay a visit.

Another stop is Pixian Yujian Dang, where a bowl of pure pork wontons for 18 yuan, served with a secret chili sauce, is simply delicious. These two little shops are next to each other, near Weng's Winery.

You can also visit the Hanfu shop at the village entrance (near the city wall tower) to dress up and time-travel. They have a wide selection of outfits perfect for photos on the old street. Since I have short hair, I could only pick a cool-looking set.

After sunset, the moment of nightfall is the most elusive. In this fast-paced age, why not slow down, shifting rhythms like a long-exposure photograph. The sky hovers between dusk and darkness, revealing its most enchanting face. Standing on the city wall, waiting for the splendid night, as lanterns light up one by one, it becomes a night you can't bear to leave.

Under this enchanting and romantic night sky, bathed in dreamy lights, the reeds and the lake surface around you flicker in and out of view, as if stepping into a mesmerizing nocturnal Jiangnan landscape painting. Let's immerse ourselves in 'Hengjing Never-Night,' where an old street revives a bygone era and a single evening tells a story. Feel what it's like to walk within a play, with the performance unfolding right beside you!

The everyday smoke and fire of life comforts the common heart. A dazzling iron flower display opens the curtain of night, blooming like fireworks and vanishing in an instant. At 7 p.m. in the Reed Marsh Theater, 'Iron Flowers, Loyal Hearts' begins. This performance weaves together an anti-Japanese resistance story set in a reed marsh blacksmith's shop with the national intangible cultural heritage of 'iron flower' fireworks, each moment more breathtaking than the last.

As night deepened, we arrived at the city gate of Hengjing Old Street. A brand-new outdoor immersive, promenade-style performance was underway. Three matchmakers dressed in reds and greens stood eagerly at the gate, warmly beckoning everyone inside. Following their steps, we entered this 'never-sleeping city.' A turn of the head revealed a spectacular light show on the gatehouse, scene after scene unfolding before our eyes and into our hearts.

'Night in the Reed Marsh' uses Hengjing Old Street as its main performance area, blending classic Shajiabang resistance stories with Republican-era culture. It's made up of multiple scenes; as visitors walk through, they are both audience and actors, observing and taking part.

Performers brush past you on the street, leap from rooftop to rooftop overhead, making you both spectator and character in the story. Amid the heart-stopping action, a song-and-dance performance eases the tension.

Then, following Commander Hu's wedding procession, we arrived at Hengjing Theater to hear old tunes sung anew and watch 'Secret War · Shajiabang.' Set against Shajiabang's wartime stories, this is a newly upgraded large-scale live show, a refreshing visual experience. Original songs and dances lift the atmosphere, but danger lurks at the wedding banquet.

The clever A Qing Sao leads everyone, turning the enemy's scheme to their advantage. Working hand-in-hand with the soldiers, they triumph perfectly, celebrating their victory with rousing songs.

[Accommodation] Jiangnan Luhua Bay

As autumn deepens, the breeze carries affection. Spending the night at Luhua Bay is a Jiangnan dream! Tucked deep in Shajiabang's reed marsh, you'll find Luhua Bieyuan, a secluded courtyard with four detached villas arranged in charming disorder on a quiet patch of land. Luhua Bay Homestay is inside Shajiabang Scenic Area, close to Hengjing Old Street. Guests get admission to Shajiabang during the day and Hengjing Never-Night for the evening show!

I was lucky enough to stay in Courtyard No. 1, the East House. Walking along a bluestone path, the white-walled, black-tiled Jiangnan dwelling before me was just like the courtyard of my dreams. Pushing open the rustic wooden door, the décor and furnishings were steeped in vintage charm. The common areas have a pool, a sandpit, and a ping-pong table. Inside the villa there's a tea bar and card tables, ideal for family activities and gatherings with friends.

The villa has three rooms: mine was called [East House], his was [That Courtyard], and another pursues [Poetry and the Distance]! Each has its own character. The East House is spacious, with a large bathtub set by a floor-to-ceiling window; behind the gauze curtains, everything felt dreamy. There was also a large stuffed animal ride-on, adding a family-friendly touch.

[Dining] Luhua Bay Restaurant

Luhua Bay has its own restaurant serving Jiangnan water town specialties. Recommended: Assorted Steamed Platter (Quanjiafu steamed vegetables), Water Caltrop and Lotus Root Stir-fry, Rice-Stuffed Pork. In golden autumn, Shajiabang is the place to eat Yangcheng Lake hairy crabs, best in October. Remember to book in advance.

Restaurant 2: Luyi Hotel

Changshu cuisine is mostly Suzhou-style, often tending sweet but not cloying. Recommendations: Osmanthus Duck Blood Glutinous Rice, Shajiabang Braised Chicken, Country-style Chicken Soup, and Pan-fried Scallion Pancakes.

[Transportation]

① Take the high-speed train to Changshu Station, then a taxi to the scenic area, about 35 minutes and around 50 yuan.

② Changshu has two main bus stations: Changshu South Station and Changshu North Station, with direct buses from almost all nearby cities. To reach Shajiabang Scenic Area, arriving at South Station is closer; a taxi takes about 15 minutes and costs around 30 yuan.

③ If driving, set your GPS to Shajiabang Scenic Area. Hotel guests can navigate to Shajiabang Luyi Hotel; after check-in, a shuttle will take you directly to Luhua Bay Homestay inside the scenic area.