A Taste of Gusu
Squirrel-shaped mandarin fish, hand-peeled shrimp, small bridges over flowing streams, pavilions and terraces—the lively city of Gusu.
Suzhou, a small town most characteristic of Jiangnan water towns, is a city that is itself a garden, and within that garden hide ancient water towns.
This outstanding representative of the Jiangnan region had often been arranged in my past travels as just a transit point or a supporting act for other destinations. This time, taking advantage of the four days when my son went on his first solo trip with classmates to Chongqing, I brought my parents to savor Gusu slowly.
My parents had been to Suzhou before, and we had also stopped by many times, visiting scattered spots here and there. For this trip, I needed to cleverly plan a brand-new Gusu experience.
The astonishing speed of China had brought us closer to beautiful scenery. Four hours by high-speed rail brought us to Suzhou, where we began our self-drive journey.
The renowned Yangcheng Lake kicked off our Gusu trip. Who in the foodie world doesn’t know Yangcheng Lake hairy crabs? Thanks to them, the lake has become famous, yet few people have actually visited it. Though it wasn’t the season for crabs and we had no plans to dine there, we still looked forward to admiring this landscape famed for its cuisine.
Yangcheng Lake lies north of Suzhou city, easily accessible from Suzhou North Railway Station. After reading travelogues online, I had a rough plan for our route.
Passing the sign for Yangcheng Lake Peninsula, we first arrived at Huayi Brothers Movie World. The empty parking lot under the blazing sun made the place seem deserted. We weren’t really interested in such man-made attractions and entertainment projects. With tickets over 200 yuan, we felt it would be better spent on a nice meal. My parents got free entry, so we let them go in to have a look and take photos—so I could later “borrow” their pictures. Meanwhile, my husband and I admired the exotic-looking outer buildings of the little town, colorful and perfect for photos. Not far away, the vast Yangcheng Lake stretched out, its waters rippling gently in the breeze under a clear, cloud-scattered sky. This wasn’t the lake’s main scenic area, so there were no hawking vendors or noisy crowds. Standing on the shore, I felt as if I owned the whole lake. The sun was strong; I snapped a few quick shots before hurrying to the shade. Later, looking at the photos my parents took inside the movie world, the colors under the fierce sun were simply gorgeous.
Following the circular route around Yangcheng Lake, we came to Chongyuan Temple. Originally built during the Northern and Southern Dynasties, the current structures were reconstructed later. The temple gate was grand. From outside, we could see the main hall standing behind a large lotus pond in the courtyard, with thick clouds overhead, imparting a sense of peace and serenity.
Continuing on, we reached Lotus Island Pier, known for its triangular three-dimensional “thatched hut” structure made of stacked aluminum louvers. Its minimalist modern style has a strong sense of layering and depth, yet it felt somewhat cold and distant. The tourist boats were all docked by the shore, and in the off-season, the water seemed exceptionally calm.
On the way back, we saw many restaurants and guesthouses lining the road, most of them closed. Signs for various crabs and their names were everywhere. The two- or three-story white buildings were neat and exquisite, a perfect blend of Jiangnan charm and the Yangcheng Lake brand, forming a unique scenic feature.
Coming to Suzhou, one of the most important things is surely tasting authentic Suzhou cuisine. For dinner, we specially found a well-reviewed Suzhou restaurant near Pingjiang Road and took a taxi there. Despite the pouring rain, it couldn’t deter the crowd of people queuing up. The restaurant’s entrance was small, but inside it was surprisingly spacious, with winding paths. People streamed in and out—tables were turned, dishes ordered, food served, creating a bustling, lively atmosphere. We ordered squirrel-shaped mandarin fish, stir-fried shrimp, Suzhou-style braised duck, Suzhou-style soy-braised shrimp, water shield and whitebait soup, and crab roe soup dumplings, all embodying the taste of Gusu. The portions were modest, presented exquisitely, giving off a trendy social-media vibe, and rather pricey!
After dinner, we strolled along Pingjiang Road, an ancient historic street. Lined with shops on both sides, it features whitewashed walls, gray-tiled roofs, and wooden doors and windows. The street runs parallel to the waterway, with rivers and lanes intersecting—a typical Jiangnan water town scene. As night fell, colorful lights added a touch of modernity to the old street. Unfortunately, the shrimp cakes I had been longing to buy again this time were nowhere to be seen.
Suzhou boasts many water towns, with world-famous ones like Tongli and Zhouzhuang. This time, we deliberately chose Luzhi and Mudu to escape the crowds and noise and savor the towns quietly.
We set off early in the morning; Suzhou’s morning rush hour was quite impressive too.
Luzhi, located southeast of Suzhou city, has a long history. The ancient town doesn’t charge an entrance fee and is an open scenic area. We followed a path used by residents and soon entered the town. Before long, we reached the main area centered around a north-south river, with shops and attractions on both sides. Walking slowly along the mottled flagstone road, we passed many ancient bridges and traditional residences, their white walls and black tiles bearing the marks of time. Here, every few steps led to a bridge and every few paces to an alley, crisscrossing each other. Few tourists were around, allowing us to observe the authentic, unadorned lives of local residents. We seemed to seamlessly blend into this slow-paced life, sitting by the river to daydream and bask in the sun while water gurgled and small boats drifted by.
Scattered around the ancient town were students sketching, each choosing their own scene and painting their little world. They had become part of the picture themselves, dotting the tranquil, peaceful town as their own scenic element.
We spent the whole morning wandering the ancient town. On our way back to Suzhou city at noon, we stopped at Ligong Causeway on Jinji Lake.
Jinji Lake, located in the Suzhou Industrial Park, contrasts sharply with the quaint old town of Gusu. Here stands Suzhou’s new landmark, the Gate of the East skyscraper—dubbed the “Big Pants” by many—showcasing the modern face of Suzhou.
Ligong Causeway is the only long embankment across Jinji Lake. I had imagined it to be like the Su Causeway or Bai Causeway at West Lake in Hangzhou, where pedestrians walk along the embankment amidst colorful flowers and greenery, with vast lake views stretching out on both sides. Yet when we arrived, it felt more like a modern-style town, brimming with international brands and time-honored local shops, interspersed with restaurants offering various cuisines. Taking the wooden walkway to the lake, we found the Ligong Causeway boat dock locked up and solitary, with no boats around. Looking across the lake, skyscrapers cast their reflections on the water, thick clouds overhead making the scene seem a bit aloof. Nearby, huge lotus leaves blanketed the pond in dense layers, dotted with a few tender pink buds poised to bloom, exceptionally lovely.
For lunch, we planned to try Sanxiamian (three-shrimp noodles) at Yuxingji, recommended by a close friend. I had done my research: their signature three-shrimp noodles and plain crab butter are local Suzhou delicacies. Three-shrimp noodles are made with freshwater shrimp from Lake Tai harvested around the Dragon Boat Festival, carefully separating the precious roe, brains, and meat, then stir-frying them together. Due to strict seasonality, it’s said to be sold for only three months a year, and we were visiting at the perfect time. Plain crab butter refers to crab meat and roe fried with ginger, garlic, oil, and wine into a crab paste, used as a topping for noodles. Looking at the pictures, I was eagerly anticipating it!
We searched for the first branch, but the navigation led us astray near a very narrow lane. After circling around, the directions became even more confusing. Heading to a second branch, we found the storefront on an equally narrow street, but parking in the cramped old town of Gusu became a problem, so we had to give up again. It was getting late, and my husband suggested we simply grab lunch at the noodle shop downstairs from our hotel and go out for a big meal in the evening. Reluctantly, I agreed.
The Dongwu Noodle Shop at our hotel entrance was small, though we later learned it’s a national chain of a well-known Suzhou brand. They had a wide variety of noodle dishes and rice meals. To my surprise, we spotted the sign for three-shrimp noodles. Of course, I had to order it! My parents and husband chose their own meals, but my single dish cost more than all three of theirs combined. The noodles and the three-shrimp topping were served separately. The noodles were classic Su-style—thin, cylindrical, already mixed well, chewy and flavorful. The shrimp, mixed with roe, came like a side dish, pure and simple, with no extra ingredients—just the way I like it. The shrimp had a very light flavor; you could either pour the whole plate onto the noodles and mix it in, or eat it bit by bit on its own. It was quite satisfying.
Suzhou’s rain comes and goes without warning, now light, now heavy. Our long afternoon nap was accompanied by the incessant patter of rain.
In the early evening, we headed to the area near the Gate of the East, the “Big Pants,” for dinner. Our hotel was situated between the old town of Gusu and Jinji Lake, making it a quick taxi ride. The Gate of the East is Suzhou’s tallest building, integrating a hotel, offices, and a large shopping mall. Getting close to the building, we couldn’t see its full profile because we were too near, but we could walk to different spots to view it from various angles. The rain-soaked ground acted like a mirror, reflecting the building and adding a touch of liveliness to its modern vibe.
For dinner, we chose Nanjing Impressions on the mall’s upper floor. The familiar setting and familiar flavors were comforting; best of all, the small portions allowed us to try many different dishes. We ordered white fish in chicken broth, duck blood vermicelli soup, crab roe tofu, snails, radish pastry, and spicy blood curd, filling the table with an assortment of plates.
After dinner, we were delighted to find that a small door next to our table led straight to an outdoor terrace. As darkness fell, outside was a dazzling display of lights. Colorful illuminations adorned the uniquely shaped high-rises, changing hues to create brilliant spectacles. The modern buildings we had seen during the day had completely transformed; near and far, tall and low, they echoed one another, adding a charming and enchanting ambiance.
On the third day, we moved to Nanlin Hotel, where we had stayed before. It’s in the old town of Gusu, right on Shiquan Street, very convenient for dining and fun. After breakfast, we skipped the morning rush hour and set off with our luggage.
Mudu Ancient Town felt more like a backyard garden of Suzhou city. Just twenty kilometers away, you could visit anytime for a stroll or to simply zone out.
Passing through a spacious visitor center, we entered the ancient town. Compared to Luzhi, it seemed grander: the river was wider, and occasionally a small hand-rowed wooden boat floated leisurely by. The lanes on both sides of the river were broader, and the riverside buildings, with white walls and black tiles shaded by lush trees, appeared even more imposing. Numerous small bridges and pavilions connected the streets and waterways, infusing the town with vitality and grace. When tired, we sat in a courtyard, leaning on the railing to take in the scenery of Jiangnan. Deep within the old streets lay grand mansions and numerous historical sites. These well-preserved classical gardens, with their long histories, are of great artistic and heritage value. Especially fascinating is the well-known legend that this was where King Wu doted on his consort Xi Shi, adding a romantic air.
For lunch, we returned to Suzhou’s old town and revisited Lao Suzhou Tea House & Restaurant, right at the Nanlin Hotel’s doorstep. The must-order signature dish was, of course, stir-fried hand-peeled shrimp! I just love that pure flavor. Though the shrimp were tiny, they were exquisitely delicate.
In the afternoon, we visited the nearby Surging Wave Pavilion (Canglang Pavilion). Together with the Lion Grove Garden, the Humble Administrator’s Garden, and the Lingering Garden, it is known as one of Suzhou’s four great gardens. Inside, we were greeted by a large rockery, atop which stood the famous Canglang Pavilion. Walking along the corridors, we saw that the garden was small, with rockeries everywhere and corridors closely spaced, giving a feeling of being too compact, even a bit crowded and oppressive. Not expansive enough—it wasn’t my preferred style.
Back at the hotel, we toured the Nanyuan Guesthouse, located just opposite our Nanlin Hotel. The Nanyuan Guesthouse is quite majestic; it was Chiang Kai-shek’s villa in Suzhou, and because it has hosted many national leaders and foreign heads of state, it’s known as Suzhou’s State Guesthouse. Its garden-style villa area is elegant and charming.
For dinner, we ate at Manjiangyu Chinese Restaurant near the hotel, ordering a practical set meal that included fish, crab, and vegetables, once again savoring the delicious flavors of Gusu.
We couldn’t let the precious morning hours before our departure go to waste. We visited the nearby Master of Nets Garden. This garden exemplifies Suzhou gardens’ ability to create a world of views in a small space. Its layout is ingenious: a large pond at the center, with buildings arranged around it. Walking along the corridors, one can appreciate the garden scenery from various angles. Pavilions, terraces, and halls are artfully scattered; small bridges over flowing water and winding paths lead to secluded spots. The garden is petite and exquisite yet not cramped or chaotic. I quite like this style of small garden.
In the afternoon, we took the high-speed train home and picked up our son from the airport that evening. A perfect and compact trip.
Every visit to Suzhou reveals her beauty from a different angle—gentle, elegant, yet modern and grand. Gusu’s little hills and streams, tiny bridges and gardens, its subtle moods and flavors, leave a lasting aftertaste.
July 2021
