Maple Leaves of Jinling, Culture of Dragon City, Gardens of Gusu: Discovering the Unique Charms of Nanjing, Changzhou and Suzhou

A splash of maple red in Jinling, the poetic charm of Dragon City, and the small bridges and flowing waters of Gusu weave together one of the most enchanting winter scenes in Jiangsu. This winter, I set off to Nanjing, Changzhou, and Suzhou in Jiangsu to discover a different kind of Jiangnan charm.

My first stop was Nanjing, just in time for the best viewing period of red maple leaves on Qixia Mountain. If you come to the south to see autumn maples, Qixia Mountain in Nanjing is an absolute must. Every autumn, the mountain is ablaze with red maples, and the best time to visit is from late November through December. Miss it, and you’ll have to wait another year.

Qixia Mountain is known as the most scenic mountain in Jinling. During the Southern Dynasties, a Qixia Buddhist retreat was built here, giving the mountain its name. As the saying goes, 'One Qixia Mountain, half the history of Jinling,' showing just how important this mountain is to Nanjing. The autumn red maples are the biggest draw. Visiting Nanjing in late autumn or early winter to enjoy the colorful romance of Qixia's maple season, you'll be captivated by the myriad of 'maple feelings.' Ancient architecture and red maples are a perfect match! The mountain’s kaleidoscope of colors beautifies the whole city, and tourists flock here nonstop, pausing to admire and take photos.

The scenic area of Qixia Mountain is quite large, with famous spots like Qixia Temple, the Sarira Pagoda, Thousand Buddha Rock, and Red Leaf Valley. Each place has its own maple charm, so plan your time wisely. I recommend entering the mountain early at 9 a.m., as crowds swell after 10 a.m. The mountain boasts many types of red leaves, mainly sweet gum, including red maple, Japanese maple, trident maple, full-moon maple, zelkova, and pistacia, scattered artfully so that the forest is dyed in layers of brilliant colors.

They say 'Spring bulls its head, autumn roosts in Qixia.' The mountain's most beautiful scenery is concentrated in autumn. Compared with spring, summer, and winter, this is when Qixia truly shines. Maple lovers should seize this window to feast their eyes on the red leaves. Moreover, this is not just a paradise for photographing maples, but also for portrait shots. Dressed in a flowing white Hanfu with a touch of ethereal grace, strike a few poses under a maple tree, and every shot looks like a masterpiece.

Follow the main path straight ahead and you’ll reach Mingjing Lake (Clear Mirror Lake), covering about 3,000 square meters. Built during the Qianlong reign of the Qing Dynasty, it features a central pavilion and a nine-turn bridge linking to the shore, exquisitely designed. A stone tablet inscribed 'Rainbow Clear Mirror' stands by the lake. Cross the lake and you’ll arrive at Qixia Temple.

If you love the pairing of ancient architecture and red maples, head to Qixia Temple. With a long history, grand scale, and imposing presence, it is one of China’s four great ancient temples and a ancestral temple of the Sanlun (Three Treatise) School of Buddhism, holding an important place in the Buddhist world. Incense still burns inside, and you can make a wish. Besides the red maples, the two giant ginkgo trees are the most famous. At this time, the ginkgo leaves are at their golden peak, flanking the temple on both sides and adding a touch of poetry.

The red maples at the foot of Qixia Mountain are the most enchanting, making it the favorite spot for maple viewing and photography. The fiery leaves, like sunset clouds descending to roost, embody the fullness of autumn – a truly spectacular sight. If photography is your main goal, the red maple scenery at the base of the mountain will keep you shooting all day.

Up on the mountain, there is also Maple Lake, located southwest of Fengxiang Peak, the highest point of Qixia Mountain, at an altitude of about 200 meters. At this higher elevation, the leaves turn red earlier. By the lake stands the reddest maple tree in the whole mountain, its leaves far deeper in color than those at the foot. The reflections of the lakeside maples in the water create a kaleidoscopic scene, just like an oil painting.

Entering the forested area, the wooden boardwalk is flanked by brilliant maple hues. A winding road passes through a grove of fiery red leaves. Deeper into Qixia Mountain, the forest is dyed in layers: pale yellow, yellow-red, orange-red, scarlet, purplish-red… Clusters and trees of maple leaves burst like sparks or flames, embellishing the entire mountain landscape.

In Nanjing, there’s also a trendy bookstore well worth a visit: Pioneer Bookstore. This time, I went to the branch located in the Nanjing Garden Expo Park. The bookstore’s appearance is very distinctive – it’s made from cement silos, and there’s a story behind it. When building the Garden Expo Park, all damaged structures had to be restored, including the old cement factory complex. So these ten cement silos were given a new life as Pioneer Bookstore.

Just like the bookstore’s motto: 'Strangers on the Earth,' it evokes a sense of the vastness of life in the universe.

Stepping inside, I was stunned by the exquisite spiral staircase.

Stacks of books spiral upward, forming a beautiful sight. This Instagram-famous book wall is definitely worth a photo stop.

Dragon City (Changzhou) is a place rich in historical and cultural heritage. Step into Changzhou and feel the traces left over centuries by scholars and poets.

My first stop was Qingguo Lane in the old city of Changzhou. Formerly known as Qianguo Lane, it’s one of the city’s ancient alleys and is hailed as the 'Number One Lane of Jiangnan Notables.' The 400-meter lane is filled with the refined poetry of old Changzhou. Along the lane, you’ll find an elegant mix of architectural clusters from the Ming, Qing, and Republic eras, hundreds of former residences of celebrities in various styles, thick with Ming and Qing charm. The atmosphere is serene and full of character, and you can also sample local Changzhou delicacies.

One Qingguo Lane, half the history of Dragon City. It is the cultural heart of Changzhou, where literary tradition began in the Tang Dynasty. Aristocratic clans of officials and scholars once gathered here; the air is thick with the scent of books, and ink seems to float on the rivers. The small bridges and flowing water reveal Changzhou’s profound cultural depth.

Whitewashed walls, black tiles, red lanterns, green willow branches – the rustic Qingguo Lane chronicles the growth and prosperity of old Changzhou, yet it has largely remained unchanged, preserving its original style.

The old street is also taking on a new look. Trendy coffee bars have added youthful vitality to Qingguo Lane. A giant sculpture of two paper cups has become a favorite photo spot for the younger crowd.

Changzhou’s intangible cultural heritage snack, shrimp cakes, is another Qingguo Lane specialty. You can smell the aroma from afar – make sure to try one!

Changzhou was Su Dongpo’s favorite city. He visited 11 times and eventually chose it as his final resting place. To commemorate him, a Su Dongpo Memorial Hall was built at the spot where he once moored his boat and went ashore.

The construction of the memorial hall followed three principles: first, respect history and protect cultural relics as much as possible – not a single nail or brick was altered to preserve the original appearance of the ancient building. Second, solemn style: all exhibits follow the Song Dynasty Jiangnan style with light and elegant colors, and spaces are simple and well-proportioned. Third, rich in content: through ingenious landscape design, the highlights are emphasized and gradually unfolded, presenting a complete picture of Su Dongpo’s glorious life and his connection to Changzhou.

'Thank you, lingering lamp, for not shunning a guest; in this lonely boat we are destined to share the night.' This line perfectly captures Su Dongpo’s bond with Changzhou.

Biji Lane: Changzhou has been famous since ancient times for making fine-toothed combs and wooden combs, earning such accolades as 'Imperial Combs and Celebrated Combs' and 'Changzhou combs are the best under heaven.' Along this lane, every household once made a living crafting combs. 'Biji Lantern Lights,' one of Changzhou’s Eight Scenic Views, tells of the street’s past prosperity.

At the entrance of Biji Lane, you can see a tall archway inscribed with 'Big Pier' – just as the name implies, indicating the old port location.

Stepping into a comb shop by the street, you’ll find a dazzling array of exquisitely crafted combs, giving me a much deeper appreciation for this everyday item.

When in Changzhou, you absolutely must not miss the fish head from Lake Tai. We went to Tianmu Lake Hotel to taste the most authentic Tianmu Lake big fish head. The soup is as thick as milk, fragrant and aromatic – the moment it’s served, the fish head aroma fills the air.

Today, Tianmu Lake claypot fish head has become a signature dish of Changzhou cuisine and even ranks among the top ten famous Jiangsu dishes. Drinking fish head soup at Tianmu Lake has become a 'must-do' on any Changzhou trip.

In Changzhou, there’s another century-old brand you must try: De Tai Heng. With over a hundred years of history, this restaurant boasts an antique atmosphere where you can sample all of the top ten Changzhou delicacies in one sitting.

'Eight Immortals Fortune Rice' is actually auspicious eight-treasure rice pudding, sweet but not cloying.

'Qianlong-Style Crab Paste' and 'Filial Son’s Caul Fat Roll' are dishes with stories behind them. The crab paste, in particular, is exceptionally fresh and delicious.

You can also enjoy fresh stir-fried shrimp, small sesame cakes, pig’s trotters, and lotus seeds – all authentic Changzhou dishes well worth a visit.

Meeting Gusu (Suzhou) again, I’ve always felt that Suzhou is a place I could never get tired of photographing. And for my dreamy Gusu journey, the first stop was the familiar, dreamlike Zhouzhuang.

Zhouzhuang is one of the six great ancient towns of Jiangnan, a water town dream of small bridges and flowing canals. Charming in its own right, both by day and by night.

When mentioning ancient Jiangnan towns, Zhouzhuang is often the first that comes to mind. Hailed as China’s No.1 Water Town, it’s one of the six great ancient towns of Jiangnan. With a long history and a classic Jiangnan water town look, combined with its unique cultural landscape, it is a treasure of Chinese water town culture and Wu regional culture.

Today, Zhouzhuang still preserves remarkably well-preserved Ming and Qing architecture. On just 0.47 square kilometers, there are nearly a hundred classical residences and over sixty brick-carved gateways, a testament to its past prosperity. Zhouzhuang was once a thriving commercial hub, as important to Jiangnan as Shanghai is today. This brought forth many famous figures, most notably Shen Wansan, once the wealthiest man in the land.

At night, Zhouzhuang is truly breathtaking. Lanterns of all shapes light up, as if the New Year has come early. By day it’s tranquil and natural; by night, it’s dreamy and full of allure.

When modern lighting blends with ancient charm, the interplay of past and present creates a fascinating, novel sensation.

'When you come to Gusu, you’ll see houses all nestled by the river.' Like a dream within a dream – night falls on Zhouzhuang.

The glittering lantern shadows in Zhouzhuang’s night remind me of the verse: 'In the fading night, amid the sound of oars and dancing lamplight.' As dusk settles, the lanes and light intertwine; a splendid Jiangnan scene flickers with shadows, where you might chance upon a graceful beauty.

The Suzhou Museum is the work of master architect I.M. Pei. It exudes a strong Zen-like Chinese elegance, full of ink-wash charm, while the collections inside are an eye-opener.

The museum is housed in the most complete surviving historical building from the Taiping Heavenly Kingdom era, with a collection of 41,109 cultural relics. It is a comprehensive regional history museum.

For many, seeing the artifacts is secondary; appreciating the architectural beauty comes first. Here you have classic Chinese style from the Taiping Prince’s mansion combined with the landscape charm of ink-wash Jiangnan. Every tiny detail reflects the beauty of craftsmanship.

Taking photos at Suzhou Museum has become even more important than viewing exhibits, because it’s just so beautiful. Look at the buildings reflected in the pond – minimalist lines outline a unique garden scene, like a monochrome ink painting.

The Humble Administrator’s Garden is a World Cultural Heritage site, a masterpiece of classical Jiangnan gardens and a precious legacy of Chinese garden art. With undulating covered walkways, shimmering reflections on water, it’s full of charm, lavishly and delicately decorated. When in Suzhou gardens, the Humble Administrator’s Garden is a must-see.

In late autumn and early winter, the garden is equally stunning, with vibrant colors everywhere. A casual snapshot is already a beautiful Jiangnan picture.

The Humble Administrator’s Garden is a quintessential Chinese garden with a long history – it is said to be over 500 years old. Always a hot attraction in Suzhou, it was once the residence of the Jin Dynasty writer Pan Yue.

The garden is narrow north-south but wide east-west. With hills and water, it reflects the Jiangnan water town style. Various structures are built by the water, well-arranged and full of charm. Highlights include the Lanxue Hall, Yuanxiang Hall, and the small Flying Rainbow covered bridge.

The Humble Administrator’s Garden fully embodies the essence of Jiangnan gardens. One unique feature is the diverse aquatic plants cultivated here, such as water grass, lotus, and fish, all coexisting and becoming part of the landscape, balancing the garden’s ecosystem. Among the eastern, central, and western sections, the central garden’s pond is the focal point, with pavilions and terraces all built along the water’s edge.

The planting in the garden is also meticulously planned, with water lotus, tall bamboo, weeping willows, lotus flowers, citrus trees, and ornamental bamboos, all distributed across various spots. You can stroll around the entire garden to see these distinctive features – it’s perfect for photo ops. The whole garden is a landscape of hills and waters centered on the pond, with pavilions set beautifully.

Winter is here, and of course, you need to soak in hot springs – and not just any hot spring, but one with a view. Wangyan Hot Spring by Lake Tai is the perfect spot for a relaxing dip.

In the famous infinity pool, gaze out at Lake Tai and soak up the winter warmth and happiness.

Wangyan Hot Spring specializes in outdoor hot springs. Over forty outdoor pools are arranged 'as nature intended, blending with nature,' scattered throughout the gardens, creating a grand oriental garden spa aesthetic that harmonizes humanity with nature.

The springs originate from the site of 'Dragon Pond Sweet Spring,' one of the 'Eight Views of Songling,' and branch out into over a dozen therapeutic pools with various health benefits. Complemented by a fusion of Eastern and Western ecological wellness spas, you can steal a day of leisure in the warm embrace of the springs.

When in Zhouzhuang, you must not miss the Wansan braised pig’s trotter, a dish originating from the Shen Wansan family in the Ming Dynasty. It was a must-serve for entertaining honored guests. Tender and delicious, it’s savory with a hint of sweetness, rich but not greasy.

When in Suzhou, you must try Suzhou-style noodles, particularly the crab roe noodles and three-shrimp noodles. Among them, crab roe noodles are the most special. Originating in Suzhou, the authentic version is sweet. The crab roe topping is fragrant and visually striking, with golden roe served in a whole bowl. Every strand of noodle is coated in the fresh aroma of crab, simply irresistible.