2-Day Suzhou Travel Guide
Day 1, train from Nanjing to Suzhou, visit Hanshan Temple, Xiyuan Temple, Lingering Garden, stay at Pod Hotel, explore Shantang Street in the evening.
Day 2, visit Humble Administrator's Garden, Lion Grove Garden, Suzhou Museum, stroll along Pingjiang Road, Shuangta Market, browse Eslite Bookstore, Jinji Lake and the Gate of the Orient, return to Nanjing by train in the evening.
"Above there is heaven, below there are Suzhou and Hangzhou"—this ancient praise captures Suzhou's beauty. In my mind, Suzhou has a reputation as the Venice of the East, with every household nestled along the water, and gardens unrivaled in the world. I think paradise must be no greater than this.
I've been to Suzhou three times before, the first time 37 years ago, which now feels distant. I haven't visited in nearly 20 years, so my memories have faded. Over the years, I've traveled north and south to many places but overlooked Suzhou—perhaps a case of "a rabbit never nibbles the grass near its own burrow". I always thought I could go anytime, and that "anytime" turned into more than 20 years.
Suzhou's classical gardens were named one of China's Top 10 Scenic Spots 40 years ago. If the list were updated today, they might be dropped, but classics remain classics. Their historical status won't be shaken by fleeting internet-famous spots.
Come on, let's go to Suzhou, to experience a baptism of garden art.
On May 15, at 7:41 a.m., I took the train from Nanjing to Suzhou. From the station, I hopped on a bus straight to Hanshan Temple. Hanshan (Cold Mountain) Temple is renowned worldwide thanks to Zhang Ji's Tang Dynasty poem "Mooring by Maple Bridge at Night": "The moon sets, crows cry, frost fills the sky; river maples and fishing fires face my melancholy sleep. Outside Gusu City, at Cold Mountain Temple, the midnight bell tolls reach the traveler's boat." Legend has it that poet Zhang Ji, after failing the imperial examination in Chang'an, passed by the temple on his return journey, moored near Maple Bridge, unable to sleep, and heard the temple bells, inspiring this poem.
The large yellow screen wall inscribed with "Hanshan Temple" is a must-see photo spot. I'll include a photo from over 30 years ago when I came here by bike, as a memory of youthful days.
The temple's layout does not follow a strict central axis, perhaps due to limited space. It's said that Hanshan Temple was founded by a monk named Hanshan during the Tang Dynasty. Legend tells of two young friends during Emperor Taizong's reign: Hanshan and Shide. When they grew up, Hanshan's parents arranged for him to marry a girl, but she had already fallen in love with Shide. Learning the truth, Hanshan decided to step aside, left home, and became a monk in Suzhou. Later, Shide discovered the truth and came to Suzhou to find Hanshan; the two then took monastic vows together.
Today, the temple has a Hanshi Hall built beneath the sutra library dedicated to them, enshrining the two as the "Two Immortals of Harmony". The philosophy of harmony they championed has become an important part of traditional Chinese culture. Folk belief even holds that couples who pray to them will remain husband and wife in the next life.
Inside the temple, there's an exhibition of rubbings of statues of Hanshan and Shide by famous artists through the ages. I glanced around and saw works by Qi Baishi, Xu Beihong, and others.
The Puming Pagoda, with distinct Tang Dynasty style, was reportedly built in 1996. The courtyard walls are inlaid with inscribed steles by famous calligraphers. At the pagoda's four lower corners, four pixiu (mythical creatures) are placed, said to bring wealth.
The koi fish in the temple look quite plump and elegant. It's said that touching them brings good luck—but while you're hoping for luck, they're eyeing your 10 yuan for fish food.
When visiting Hanshan Temple, ringing the bell is a must. For 5 yuan, you can strike it three times and personally experience a touch of ancient flavor. I climbed to the second floor of the bell tower, struck the bell three times with force, and listened to the resonant, lingering sound travel far—a true delight. It's said that people have 108 worries a year, and striking the bell 108 times can eliminate all anxieties. To get rid of all 108 worries, I calculated it would cost 180 yuan.
After leaving Hanshan Temple, we took a bus to Xiyuan Temple.
Xiyuan Temple is considered the most conscientious temple in Suzhou, and locals' favorite. Years ago, it voluntarily withdrew from the 4A scenic area rating to lower the ticket price to a symbolic 5 yuan, and each visitor gets three free incense sticks.
Unlike other temples, Xiyuan Temple features garden landscapes alongside its religious architecture. Here, you can not only offer incense and pray but also pet cats and feed pigeons.
In its West Garden release pond, there used to be three Swinhoe's softshell turtles, which were among the last in the world. Unfortunately, today you can only see a bronze statue of one.
Another must-do at Xiyuan Temple is trying the vegetarian noodles. A bowl of "Guanyin noodles" costs 15 yuan and comes with generous toppings: bamboo shoots, mushrooms, and fried gluten. The noodles are perfectly firm yet tender, with a slight sweetness—now a culinary must in Suzhou.
Lingering Garden is just a few hundred meters from Xiyuan Temple, an easy walk. It's one of Suzhou's most famous gardens, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Its design features winding paths leading to secluded spots, exquisite structures, and scenery that shifts with every step—a paragon of classical Suzhou gardens.
Suzhou's classical gardens integrate residence and garden, offering spaces to admire, stroll, and dwell. This architectural form satisfies the need for convenience in a bustling city while fulfilling the desire to live amidst nature.
Exploring the entire garden, I felt the meticulous design everywhere—exquisitely crafted yet utterly natural. It's truly breathtaking.
Lingering Garden has had a checkered history. First built in 1593 during the Ming Dynasty's Wanli era, it fell into disrepair and changed hands many times. During the War of Resistance against Japan, it was even used as a Japanese army stable; the nanmu pillars in the Five Peaks Hall were gnawed into gourd shapes by horses, and horse dung piled up over a foot deep—a terrible waste of treasure.
The Cloud-Capped Peak, in the eastern part of the garden, is said to be a relic of the Song Dynasty's "Flower and Rock" transport fleet. One of the four great rocks of Jiangnan, it embodies the Taihu Lake stone qualities of slenderness, perforation, transparency, and wrinkle.
After leaving Lingering Garden, we walked to the nearby Pod Hotel. Following a short rest, we walked to Shantang Street.
Shantang Street is named after the Shantang River. During the Tang Dynasty, Bai Juyi, as governor of Suzhou, dredged the northwest waterways outside the city, creating the Shantang River. The ancient street built along it became Shantang Street. Over a thousand years of development, it has become a "Famous Chinese Historical and Cultural Street". The one constant throughout the centuries: it has always been a prosperous area of Gusu.
The best time to visit Shantang Street is in the evening. As lanterns begin to glow, the street teems with people. Nearly every small bridge linking the banks is packed with visitors snapping photos. Standing on these bridges, you can truly feel the character of Suzhou's water towns: red lanterns hung high along the shops, wooden boats winding along the canal—a romance of oars and lantern light.
The internet-famous "Poetic Memories" bamboo-tube ice cream on the street—after trying it, we didn't think it was as bad as some reviews claimed.
Shen Wansan's braised chicken feet tasted great, and the Taishan craft beer was top-notch.
Before heading back to the hotel, we stopped at Xin Zhenyuan for its pan-fried buns and small wontons—just average, we felt.
Early the next morning, we took a bus to the Humble Administrator's Garden. It was still early, so we had breakfast at Guan Zhenxing near the entrance before entering the foremost of China's Four Great Gardens (the others: the Summer Palace in Beijing, the Mountain Resort in Chengde, and the Lingering Garden we visited yesterday).
The Humble Administrator's Garden was also first built in the Ming Dynasty, in 1509. Disgraced censor Wang Xianchen, returning home after a political setback, expanded the site of the Dahong Temple into a garden. He named it "Humble Administrator's Garden" after a line from Pan Yue's "Rhapsody on Idle Living": "Tending a garden and selling vegetables for daily meals—this is also the governance of a humble man."
The garden's essence lies in its use of water. With expansive ponds and lush trees, the scenery feels natural. Buildings of varying shapes and heights are arranged by the water, with winding corridors rising and falling, reflections shimmering—a world unto itself. Though man-made, the whole environment brims with natural wild charm.
The garden skillfully incorporates the distant Beisi Pagoda, "borrowing" it as part of the view, blending seamlessly with the garden's own scenery—this is the origin of the "borrowed scenery" technique in garden design.
After leaving the Humble Administrator's Garden, on the way to Lion Grove Garden, we bought some osmanthus cakes, a Suzhou snack, and ate as we strolled toward Lion Grove.
Lion Grove Garden was first built in 1342 during the Yuan Dynasty. It is said that the great painter Ni Yunlin personally designed the garden's layout. It is now one of Suzhou's four famous gardens.
Its greatest feature is the labyrinthine rockery made of Taihu Lake stones, with peaks resembling lions, hence the name "Lion Grove". Clambering through the rockery gives one a youthful thrill; no wonder the Qianlong Emperor, after his visit, inscribed the plaque "Zhen Youqu" (Really Interesting). But because it sounded too childish, it was later simplified to "Zhenqu" (True Delight).
Years of visitors climbing and touching have given many rocks a polished patina, making them extremely slippery. So be careful not to slip. Fortunately, the garden management has added anti-slip strips on many smooth surfaces.
Next came the Suzhou Museum, the most exhausting part of the trip. While it was designed by the famous I.M. Pei and has distinct character, the exhibition route felt confusing; I often found myself unknowingly re-entering areas and only realized I'd been there when I recognized the exhibits. Also, there were too few benches. After hours of walking, I was dead tired and desperate for a rest, but every seat was taken. Finally, the restrooms were overcrowded. Men managed okay, but women had to queue for over ten minutes.
The museum doesn't have many masterpieces. The highlight, the "Pearl Shrine Reliquary" and its wooden case, were both replicas—quite disappointing.
But the pros outweigh the cons. The museum still has much to offer, and it's hugely popular—reservations are timed to the hour, and entry is strict. Many visitors come not for the exhibits but to snap photos for social media.
After the museum, we grabbed lunch at a nearby KFC, then walked to Pingjiang Road.
You said spring is not yet late, and here I am in the real Jiangnan.
Pingjiang Road is a historic lane in Suzhou, a path along the Pingjiang River. The Pingjiang Road Historic Block is the best-preserved area of Suzhou's ancient city, a microcosm of the old town. Its atmosphere is best on a drizzly morning or evening, when you might stroll with an oil-paper umbrella, wearing a qipao, gracefully stepping on the flagstone street. It's said that the poet Dai Wangshu's "Rainy Alley" was inspired by the Lilac Lane here:
Holding an oil-paper umbrella, alone
Wandering in a long, long
And lonely rainy alley,
Hoping to meet
A girl like a lilac
Bearing melancholy...
Not far from Pingjiang Road is Shuangta (Twin Pagodas) Market, a wet market with several good snack stalls, we heard. We joined the crowd and tried fermented rice dumplings at "Da Niangniang". Originally an ordinary market, it gained fame after a makeover on Dragon TV's "Dream Home" show, turning it into a trendy photo spot. The innovative design transformed a once-messy market into a clean, stylish space perfect for photos.
Then we took a bus to the Eslite Bookstore by Jinji Lake. This is the first mainland branch of Taiwan's Eslite, and its 24 Roman columns are a great photo backdrop. The books and creative products are also quite unique.
We strolled to the shore of Jinji Lake. The evening was overcast, no sunset to enjoy. After sitting a while, we took a bus to Suzhou's landmark, the Gate of the Orient, commonly nicknamed "the Big Pants".
Arriving at the Gate of the Orient, the sky hadn't darkened yet. Since it was still early, we walked to the third floor of Xingyue Hui in the Suzhou Center Plaza next door and had dinner at Wangfei BBQ, where the staff handled all the grilling. We emerged pleasantly full and perfectly timed.
In front of the Gate of the Orient, a crowd of young people gathered for photos. Among them, we could be called old-timers, but the key is a youthful heart.
After taking our photos, we took the metro to Suzhou Railway Station and caught the 8:58 p.m. train back to Nanjing, ending a delightful two-day trip to Suzhou.
