Solo Australia Part 5: Sydney City

June 21

Woke up naturally, grabbed my phone, camera, map, spare batteries, snacks, water, and headed out with my backpack. Arrived at the train station just after nine, bought an off-peak ticket; the daily return ticket that normally costs 9.6 was only 6.6. Got off at Central about 40 minutes later. Central is the hub of Sydney's train network; almost all lines converge here. Stepping out of the station takes you into the heart of Sydney's city center—finally I realized that Sydney actually has a lot of people. Exiting the station, two blocks northeast and about five minutes later is Chinatown. Very easy to recognize because the entrance to Chinatown has a very Chinese-style archway. Chinatown was quite quiet in the morning; only a few specialty shops were open, and the rest, mostly eateries, hadn't opened yet. Since almost everything is made in China, there was nothing worth buying, so I just spent a few minutes walking from one end to the other, heading straight for Darling Harbor.

Darling Harbor is a bay with wharves on both sides. On a sunny day, sitting on a bench looking at the blue sea, blue sky, and white yachts docked, I've heard that women often get approached because the atmosphere is so romantic. So I sat down too—just to rest my feet and take some photos.

A local old man was walking with his grandson; he pointed at me and told the boy I was taking beautiful pictures. They sat beside me, and the old man struck up a conversation. I told him I was traveling alone and staying for quite a while. He recommended a seaside town about an hour's drive from Sydney, very beautiful, with almost no foreigners, lots of boats and locals—worth visiting. I thanked him and moved on. At the end of the wharf is the aquarium. I had already booked tickets from a travel agency in advance, so I just needed to exchange the printed order at the ticket office; I also exchanged my Sydney Tower ticket at the same time. At the entrance, I scanned the barcode on the ticket and went in. The aquarium is indoors, not very large, but fairly comprehensive—more of an educational type, featuring mainly Australian native marine animals, suitable for students. It has an underwater corridor like almost every aquarium, where you can see manta rays, colorful tropical fish, sharks, and so on. There is only one path from entrance to exit; following the signs slowly takes about one to two hours to see everything without missing anything.

Exiting the aquarium, the tallest pointed building to the east is Sydney Tower, about a ten-minute walk away, but the entrance isn't so easy to find. Next to the impressive Queen Victoria Building, there is a very popular shopping mall; the express elevator to Sydney Tower is on the fourth floor of that mall. If you see 4D Sydney Tower Eye, don't hesitate—that's it. At the entrance, pick up a site guide and a pair of 3D glasses—yes, free. Just like the aquarium, there's only one path; follow the signs and you won't get lost or miss anything. First, step into a 4D cinema to watch a scenic short film; the effect is great—the cinema platform tilts with the plane or boat in the film, and there are wind and water mist simulating waves. After watching, one thought: Sydney is beautiful, Australia is beautiful. Then take the express elevator to the top; the 360-degree observation windows offer an unobstructed view of Sydney's city center. I love gazing from the highest point, admiring how sky, earth, and structures blend together, marveling at human architectural ability, and being moved by this vastness. At the top, there is a coffee and burger shop, and a souvenir store. Postcards there are 5 AUD for ten... damn, that's half the price I paid earlier. Unwilling to accept defeat, I bought ten out of spite—what a bargain. When paying, the shopkeeper asked if I needed stamps. Hmm, the postcards are cheap, buying many to send to friends, but postage is expensive—a miscalculation. I reluctantly bought ten stamps. Ran into a British girl traveling alone; we took the elevator together and took photos of each other on the platform—ship passing in the night, then waved goodbye.

After descending the tower, I continued east and arrived at Hyde Park. This park is over 200 years old, with many century-old trees, and a classical European-style fountain. I sat on a bench and ate; birds flew over and waited for crumbs to drop, completely unafraid. Many people jogging to and from the beach pass through this park, as do white-collar workers from the CBD taking a break—mostly tourists and locals relaxing.

Crossing Hyde Park, across the street is St Mary's Cathedral, the largest cathedral in the Southern Hemisphere. It is said to have been destroyed by fire long ago and then rebuilt at great expense over 60 years. The scale is truly magnificent, completely different from Chinese architectural styles. Inside the cathedral, there are arched domes and painted ceilings; it's hard to believe how such a tall hall was built in the past—truly awe-inspiring. Every piece of glass in the stained-glass windows is a colorful painting, intricate and vivid under the sun. Standing inside the church, looking at the sunlight streaming through the glass, it felt as if heaven were just beyond the windows.

Passing the cathedral, heading northeast toward the sea, I went past the Art Gallery of New South Wales, crossed a busy road, and then entered the green expanse of the Royal Botanic Garden—free admission. Plant lovers can take a slow, careful stroll. The botanic garden was built nearly two hundred years ago under the supervision of Governor Macquarie. Inside are ruins of a burnt palace garden, a memorial fountain, and various plant zones and exhibition rooms. I walked through to Woolloomooloo Bay, then continued north along the coast, passing many joggers. When I reached the bench where Macquarie's wife often sat, the view suddenly opened up. This spot forms a perfect line with the Sydney Opera House and the Harbour Bridge, making it the best ground-level viewpoint. The white Opera House and the heavy steel Harbour Bridge blend perfectly under the sun, blue sky, and sea. From there, walking about three kilometers along Farm Cove, I reached the Opera House—scenery all the way, snapping photos nonstop, benches every few steps; the 30-minute walk didn't feel long at all. Finally, standing in front of the Sydney Opera House! The Opera House, shaped like ten shells, has ten performance halls. You can book a 22 AUD, 30-minute Chinese-language guided tour, or buy tickets online to attend an opera or concert. Bidding farewell to the Opera House, I walked to the old Government House in the Royal Botanic Garden. It happened to be open, so I went in for a quick look. Entering the building costs money; I took a few photos and left. Exiting the botanic garden heading west, down the steps across the street is Sydney Cove—the busiest wharf in Sydney, with almost all ferry routes passing through. Many street performers gather on the wharf, the most eye-catching being several indigenous people painted all over with body paint. Many tourists take photos with them—provided you give them money, of course.

Walking around the wharf to the other side, that's The Rocks. Every Saturday there is a market there, with hundreds of stalls set up under white awnings, selling all kinds of things, including handmade items. Unfortunately, it wasn't the weekend, so I didn't see the lively scene.

Sitting under the Harbour Bridge, watching the Opera House in the sunset was breathtaking. But the sea breeze was a bit chilly, and after walking a long way I felt hungry. Cold and hungry, I walked back to the wharf and headed toward the CBD. Across the street was a McDonald's; I went in and ordered a 5.95 AUD combo—burger, fries, cola—and ate slowly. As the city lights came on, darkness fell. Half an hour later, I walked back to the bay, reluctant to leave, admiring the nighttime view of the wharf, Opera House, Harbour Bridge, and CBD. Watching people sitting in the waterfront cafés, chatting by heaters, enjoying delicious food against the beautiful night scene—they really know how to enjoy life. Reluctantly saying goodbye to the lovely waterscape, I headed back in the dark at 7 p.m.

In total, I walked about 10 kilometers. Below is the route map.