Returning from the Waves, Unforgettable Blue Sky, White Clouds, and the Ocean...! 2019 Australia Self-Drive Tour纪实 Part 3
After seeing the little penguins on Phillip Island, the Melbourne and Great Ocean Road trip basically came to an end, which can be summed up in one sentence for the entire journey: Body chilled, heart soaring.
Back to February 4, 2019, which was Chinese New Year's Eve on the lunar calendar. The land of China was filled with a festive atmosphere, while we, in the Southern Hemisphere, began planning our journey to Sydney. Driving from Melbourne to Sydney, a total distance of about 1,300 kilometers, we planned to stay one night each in Lakes Entrance, Mallacoota, Narooma, and Jervis Bay.
Morning on Phillip Island was sunny with clear air. Opening the window, a gentle breeze blew in, and a golden ray of sunlight entered, bright and tender. We packed up and set off for a new journey.
Start the engine, fill up the tank—the Mitsubishi Eclipse Cross sped towards the first stop of this leg: Lakes Entrance (the town of Lake Entrance). Lakes Entrance is picturesque, with the shallow Cunninghame Arm separating the town from the Ninety Mile Beach. Fishing boats dotting the area, fresh seafood, and endless beaches—all of this will make you fall in love with the place. Locals have a saying: tourists go to the Great Ocean Road, but locals come to Lakes Entrance.
We drove along the Princes Highway, weaving through forests. The highway was narrow with fast traffic, but luckily there weren't many cars. After nearly five hours of driving, we arrived at Lakes Entrance around 4 PM. After checking in, we found that the apartment-style hotel had a fully equipped kitchen. Considering it was New Year's Eve and we hadn't had Chinese food for a few days, we decided to go grocery shopping and cook to satisfy our Chinese stomachs.
After shopping, it was sunset, so we went to the Kalimna Lookout on the western side of town on Princes Hwy to overlook the whole town. Standing there, the town was bathed in afterglow, giving it a warm orange-yellow feel. The lake shimmered with ripples, dotted with boats, and speedboats carved graceful arcs on the water. Pelicans strolled leisurely along the shore.
We drove slowly along the lake, stopping now and then. Cunninghame Arm had azure waters and rows of boats. The red-and-white railed wooden walkway on the sea, the colorful wisps of clouds in the sky, and the white-walled red-roofed houses by the roadside—every scene was a picture. After the sun set, we returned to the hotel. The driver turned into a cook, and with years of experience, quickly made four home-style dishes. Pouring some wine, our family of three had a simple but happy reunion night.
Today (February 5, 2019) was Chinese New Year. The town was very quiet and peaceful in the early morning. The morning sun shone on the water, coating it with a thin layer of gold. We crossed an old iron bridge, and at the bridgehead, a large group of black swans and seagulls welcomed us. Bean brought out some snacks, and those sharp-eyed birds followed her closely. After feeding the black swans, we walked 200 meters to the famous Ninety Mile Beach. The beach had strong winds and high waves, with coarse sand. Little Bean played in the sand for a while, and then we decided to head to the next stop—Mallacoota.
We continued along the Princes Highway, with tall eucalyptus trees on both sides. Opening the window, the fresh air was refreshing and uplifting. Around noon, the weather changed suddenly, and it started pouring rain, severely limiting visibility. Annoying Australian truck drivers drove their big rigs like race cars, roaring past us, making our hearts pound. The rain came and went, but we made it through without incident, arriving at Gipsy Point Lakeside Villa Hotel at 4 PM.
The hotel was on the shore of Gipsy Point, accessible only by a narrow path. Surrounded by mountains and water, the environment was superb. There was no sign of any cooking smoke around, and the hotel didn't provide meals. When checking in, the staff saw our passports and said, "Happy Chinese New Year!" Such friendly Aussies, such warm words. After checking in, we drove to Mallacoota to buy ingredients for dinner. Along the way, light rain fell, the mountain roads were winding, and cars behind occasionally honked impatiently, but we didn't dare to drive fast. After stocking up at the supermarket, seeing it was still early, we wanted to visit the Mallacoota Bunker Museum. But following the navigation address, we couldn't find it. Suddenly, a car appeared behind us, and a red-faced big head with wild hair stuck out of the window, yelling at us. Traveling away from home, caution is key. I drove my car, and he could spew his nonsense; so we turned back to the villa.
We chose Mallacoota as the second stop heading north based on many online recommendations, including the Mallacoota Bunker Museum, which was said to be worth visiting. However, the road was winding, and we were disappointed. We didn't take a single photo of the town. I suggest that others choose Merimbula as the second stop instead—Merimbula will not disappoint.
The next morning, it was still drizzling. The mountains outside the hotel were lush green, and the air was moist. Our destination for the day was Narooma. Continuing along the A1, we arrived at the holiday town of Merimbula around noon. By then, the sky had cleared, and the gentle sunshine swept away the gloom of yesterday. Getting out of the car, we saw a wide, calm lake with seagulls and pelicans gliding on the water. Small boats by the shore danced with the waves. Bean's mom said regretfully, "We should have stayed here last night."
Princess Bean happily fed seagulls and pelicans by the lake. Wherever she went, the seagulls followed, like old friends. Bean's mom strolled and took photos, sitting and standing, enjoying herself immensely. Just then, a friendly elderly couple walking by the lake came over and enthusiastically took a family photo for us. Compared to yesterday's big head, this warmth was truly touching.
We spent a full three hours in Merimbula, sightseeing, taking photos, shopping, and eating. But there was a slight regret: the natural rock pool on ScenicDrives at the east end of town—we couldn't find it despite following the navigation.
At 3 PM, we left Merimbula satisfied and arrived at the second attraction of the day, Camel Rock. Camel Rock was discovered and named by Captain James Cook during his voyage along Australia's east coast due to its striking resemblance to a camel, and it is very popular with tourists. The rock is located next to a local residential beach with fine sand and shallow water, where you might even catch a glimpse of a shocking nudist show.
After enjoying Camel Rock and Horse Head Rock, we soon reached Narooma. Narooma is a lazy, beautiful seaside town with a slow pace of life. Standing on the second floor of the hotel, we saw a green field in front, adjacent to a vast blue sea—truly picturesque. After settling in, we hurried out to explore Narooma's charming scenery.
After visiting several spots, Little Bean discovered a riverside park with not only children's play equipment but also free barbecue facilities. Climbing nets, swinging on swings—Little Bean played from sunset until dark, and only after repeated calls from her mother did she reluctantly return to the hotel. An exciting day ended. A good night's sleep awaited, and the next destination was Jervis Bay.
February 7 arrived. According to plan, the highlight of the day was Hyams Beach in Jervis Bay. In the morning, we set off from Narooma and soon reached Batemans Bay. Batemans Bay is a charming seaside area with soft sandy beaches and azure, clear waters, one of the favorite holiday spots for Australians. We parked the car, and across from the parking lot was a Chinese restaurant called New Golden Dragon Chinese. Without further ado, we went in to fill our stomachs. After eating a partly authentic partly adapted Chinese meal, we strolled along Batemans Bay. The sea breeze was gentle, the sun warm, seagulls soared in the air, and pelicans strolled leisurely on the grass. Little Bean found new joy—feeding more seagulls and pelicans.
After spending nearly three hours at Batemans Bay, we headed to Jervis Bay. We arrived at the hotel around 5 PM, checked in, and then went to the main attraction of the day, Hyams Beach.
Hyams Beach boasts the world's longest stretch of white sand and holds a Guinness World Record. The sand is white and fine, making it the most popular beach among the many in Jervis Bay. When we arrived, the sunlight was perfect—not too hot. Many people were swimming, but we didn't go in the water. We stuck to our usual routine: Little Bean played in the sand, and Bean's mom took photos.
We stayed until 8 PM. Little Bean was covered in sand and sea water, so we went ashore to rinse off. After cleaning up and changing clothes, we returned to the hotel to cook dinner. It wasn't lavish, but it suited our taste.
After a good night's sleep, we felt refreshed in the morning and continued our journey. Today's destination was the last stop of the third leg—Sydney. After an hour's drive, we arrived at the first town of the day: Kiama.
Kiama is a beautiful town near Sydney, surrounded by the sea, pastures, and forests. The town preserves many old Australian buildings, including ancient churches, the old post office, railway station, and market buildings. The most famous attractions in town are the Blowhole, the lighthouse, and Cathedral Rocks.
We first went to Little Blowhole. As the tide rose and fell, the hole emitted a thunderous roar and shot out a water column dozens of meters high.
Then we headed to the second attraction, Kiama Blowhole, located in a park that also has a lighthouse, museum, and large rock formations. When we arrived at Kiama Blowhole, unfortunately the sea was calm, and there was no spectacular water column or roar like at Little Blowhole. However, we could finally see the true face of the natural sea cave.
After visiting Kiama Blowhole, we spent some time at the nearby Kiama Museum. As we left the museum, it started drizzling. We drove following the navigation to find Cathedral Rocks, but by then the rain had intensified. From the road, the rock looked too small, so we skipped it.
We turned around and headed for Sydney. An hour later, we reached the Sea Cliff Bridge. We parked at both ends of the bridge and drove across it twice but couldn't find an ideal photo spot. So we took a few quick photos and continued towards Sydney.
From Sea Cliff Bridge to Sydney, we passed through a winding mountain road. As we neared Sydney, it suddenly started pouring rain, reducing visibility to only ten or twenty meters. We turned on the hazard lights and drove slowly. Bean's mom was even more nervous than I was, staring ahead and occasionally reminding me. Fortunately, the road was a multi-lane one-way. After driving for nearly twenty minutes, the rain stopped, the sun came out, and we entered Sydney city.
An unexpected mishap occurred. According to the navigation, it would take only 30 minutes to reach the Sydney Marriott Circular Quay Hotel—but that didn't happen. The hotel was on a one-way street, and due to road construction in Sydney, the access direction was blocked. So we started circling the hotel, from daylight to dark, from clear skies to rain, seeing the hotel but unable to get in. By 8 PM, it was still raining. We asked many passersby but couldn't find the way. Our mood hit rock bottom; it felt like there was no way out. Then Bean's mom suggested parking the car in some lot and taking a taxi. So we did that, and finally the taxi dropped us at the hotel. Later, we discovered there was a small side road leading to the hotel. So we walked back from the hotel to the parking lot, paid the most expensive parking fee of our lives (65 AUD per hour), and drove the car to the hotel. By then it was 9 PM. We checked in and rushed to the hotel's first-floor restaurant, where we ordered a few Australian dishes by copying what others had (our English was poor, and Google Translate didn't always help). Finally, we satisfied our growling stomachs. After eating, the rain stopped, and Bean's mom suggested going to the pier for some sea breeze. Our Sydney trip began amidst the colorful neon lights of Circular Quay.
At Circular Quay, the pier was festively decorated with lights, bustling with people, and filled with elements of Chinese New Year—snake, pig, rabbit, dog, rooster... Seeing these familiar zodiac symbols made us feel less like strangers in a foreign land. Under the night sky, the Sydney Harbour Bridge and the Opera House changed colors, looking even more magnificent. In the bars, people clinked glasses, laughter rang out, with groups of friends and couples whispering sweet nothings. Our family of three walked along the street, feeling a long-lost sense of being back in the city.
Back at the hotel, we turned on the TV and caught a replay of the Spring Festival Gala. Though we were tired, the strong Chinese New Year atmosphere in Sydney made us feel very warm.
On February 9, 2019, our main plans were to visit the Sydney Fish Market, the University of Sydney, and Hyde Park. In the morning, we took a taxi to the fish market. Although we said we were visiting, our real goal was Sydney lobster. As soon as we arrived at Darling Harbour, the smell of seafood hit us—you know that smell. Inside the market, the noise was deafening, and 90% of the people were from the Tang Dynasty (Chinese). After much effort, we found a seat. Bean's mom picked out a 3.5-pound lobster, but the price was just as beautiful—nearly 3,000 AUD. After cooking, it came in two large platters. Even with all our might, we couldn't finish this delicious feast.
As I write this travelogue, a thought suddenly occurs: with the pandemic this year and the lack of massive Chinese tourist numbers, I wonder if the Sydney Fish Market is still doing well.
After the seafood feast, we walked along Wattle Street and Bav Street towards the University of Sydney, passing Wentworth Park. The park had lush green lawns and some children's play equipment. Naturally active, Little Bean immediately started playing—on the rings and climbing the parallel bars.
After about 30 minutes of walking, we arrived at the University of Sydney. If we hadn't set the navigation beforehand, we might have thought we were in a castle! The University of Sydney, founded in 1850, is Australia's oldest university and is known as the "Oxford of the Southern Hemisphere." It has produced a series of important figures, including eight Nobel laureates, eight Australian prime ministers, and twenty-three High Court justices. The University of Sydney is not only one of Australia's best universities but also a world-class institution.
After visiting the university, we strolled to Hyde Park. Hyde Park was first established in 1810 and is over 200 years old. It features large clean lawns, towering trees over a century old, and many Australian white ibises. At the center of the park is the Archibald Fountain, built to commemorate the alliance between France and Australia during World War I. It consists of bronze sculptures, with a young man holding a lyre at the top. Across the park is the famous St. Mary's Cathedral, built in 1821, Australia's oldest cathedral.
After exploring Hyde Park, we ended our first day of walking in Sydney. Our calves were protesting, but Little Bean was still full of energy, as if she had endless calories!
The next morning, we headed to Circular Quay early, as we had booked a Chinese-language guided tour of the Opera House. The pier by day and by night each had their own charm. The row upon row of high-rise buildings near the pier formed a beautiful skyline against Sydney's sky.
We wandered around, took photos, and by the time it was noon, we rushed to the Opera House. When we got there and exchanged our tickets, the staff said we were too late. I had misread the time with my dim eyes. Little Bean and Bean's mom looked disappointed, and I had to carefully apologize to the two higher-ups, saying we'd come again another time. So the promised in-depth tour of the Opera House turned into just looking at the "shells" from outside.
Resigned, we headed to the Royal Botanic Garden and Macquarie Point. Standing at Macquarie Point, under the blue sky and white clouds, the Sydney Harbour Bridge spanned the Jackson Harbour like a steel giant, magnificent and unparalleled. The Sydney Opera House, nestled by the harbour, looked like huge white petals floating on the sea, spectacular and beautiful. On the water, boats shuttled, seabirds flew, adding vitality to the blue ocean.
After visiting the Botanic Garden, we went to the Sydney Central Business District, experiencing Sydney's vitality while searching for local cuisine. The CBD was a blend of antiquity and modernity, with century-old Town Hall, Queen Victoria Building, St. Andrew's Cathedral, and modern structures like World Square and 1 Martin Place.
Our two-day walking tour of Sydney ended as the city lights came on. Although many roads in Circular Quay and The Rocks were under construction, causing inconvenience, Sydney left us with a wonderful impression.
Tomorrow (February 11, 2019), we will start driving from Sydney to the Gold Coast, our fourth leg. We will experience sandboarding, feed kangaroos, hug koalas... The wheels keep rolling, and the story keeps updating!
Travelogue Directory: 1. Chapter 5: Heading North, from Melbourne to Sydney; 2. Chapter 6: Chinese New Year in Sydney
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