Midsummer Romance – 2017 Central Europe Trip 5: Graz and the Hundertwasser Village

I had known Graz before because of the Magna factory. It is probably the world's largest automotive parts manufacturer, with nearly three hundred vehicle manufacturing contract factories around the world. This particular plant in Graz mainly serves German cars like Mercedes-Benz, BMW, and Jaguar. Car enthusiasts should know that the first Mercedes-Benz G-Wagen in 1979 was born here.

Graz, Austria's second-largest city after Vienna, is not only an automotive manufacturing hub but also the country's center for metallurgy, machinery, instruments, papermaking, and brewing, as well as a historic cultural city. Only on this trip did I learn that this city, which I had imagined to be very modern, is actually an ancient town with over a thousand years of history, selected as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999. Well-preserved Renaissance buildings can be seen everywhere, giving the clean and comfortable city a strong Italian flavor with a touch of calm elegance.

Graz is considered by Austrians to be the most beautiful city. Compared to other familiar Austrian destinations, it is a secret favorite for locals' travel and leisure. Hollywood legend Arnold Schwarzenegger and the famous 20th-century conductor Karl Böhm were both born here.

In the center square in front of the town hall stands a statue and fountain dedicated to Archduke John, the most beloved ruler of Graz. Surrounding the duke's statue are four bronze female figures symbolizing the four rivers: the Inn, the Mur, the Drava, and the Sann (San).

There were a few market stalls in the central square. We surrounded one selling fruits and vegetables. The owner, probably unaccustomed to such a buying spree, was flustered and had to call a friend over to help.

Foodie tip: If it's in season, definitely try the local cherries. They are fresh, delicious, beautiful, large, and very cheap, so don't miss out.

The Mur River runs through the city of Graz, dividing it into two parts. The river flows southwest and eventually into the Mediterranean Sea.

Perhaps tired of the Renaissance style everywhere, people in Graz sought something new. The city also has some extremely avant-garde and unique attractions, such as the artificial floating island—Mur Island. Designed by New York designer Vito Acconci, it was completed in 2003. Even more amazing is that this steel-and-glass island can rise and fall with the water level, looking from afar like a giant spiral silver shell floating on the river.

Another place is the modern art museum, which even the change-hungry Graz residents themselves found hard to accept. From this angle, the building, made of glass and plastic, doesn't look as outrageously unbearable as rumored. Maybe the people of Graz are exaggerating!

When I got closer and saw the overall building model, I understood...

The modern art museum was completed in 2003. British architect Peter Cook perfectly embodied the concept of "biological existence" architecture, embedding a surrealist structure of glass and plastic into an old 17th-century house (with the red brick roof), creating an extremely jarring visual contrast. It is said that the large blob part is called the "stomach," and the upright part is the "spout"... So visitors entering are "sucked into the stomach" to be "swallowed" by art.

It's no wonder it's called the "invading alien," the "gill monster," the "caterpillar," or even the "giant bladder." To be honest, I can't understand such avant-garde design either.

—————— The Dividing Line of the Fairy Tale World ——————

Not far from Graz, we entered a scenic spot—the Hundertwasser Thermal Village. This is not only a hot spring hotel but also a work by Austria's most eccentric national treasure artist, painter, and architectural master, Friedensreich Hundertwasser. This old gentleman opposed all straight lines, rigidity, symmetry, and rules. He boldly used bright and vivid colors, emphasizing harmony between humans and nature. His works are full of vitality and childlike fun, truly making you feel like you've stepped into a fairy tale world.

The thinner man in the photo above the sand table is Hundertwasser, known as the "old rascal."

The hotel lobby is at the blue arrow, and our room was at the yellow arrow. Various oddly shaped corridors connect them. Those corridors not only have twisted walls but also uneven floors, like a maze. The two of us (the lost duo) had to constantly try and error to find our way back to the lobby from our room, turning a seven-to-eight-minute walk into nearly half an hour.

Hotel reception hall (partial)

The hotel corridors are extremely irregular—curving walls, undulating floors, and especially the occasional patches of pure black flooring that look like puddles at first glance.

Hanging on the corridor walls are works by Hundertwasser, vibrant and amusing.

Each guest room is also designed differently, reflecting unique design concepts.

Our room had a small French door that opened directly onto the lawn and woods behind. My friend K was very happy—it was convenient for him to go out and smoke (he hadn't quit yet), making other group members who didn't have such convenience envious.

Through the corridor windows, we could see the cute little houses outside. Truly, we didn't want to waste a single minute. After some effort, we explored our way to the front desk to borrow bicycles.

Words feel inadequate; let the pictures speak.

The two of us, laughing and chatting, rode our bikes through Austria's serene and beautiful forests, meadows, lakes, and that adorable and whimsical fairy-tale world...

It is said that the hot spring water here is alkaline sodium bicarbonate at 47.2°C, giving the skin a smooth and silky feel, so locals call it "beauty bath."

Besides the great scenery, interesting architecture, and good hot springs, the food here is also up to par. Overall, it's a place worth visiting.