Restored to Glory: The 'Bangyan Mansion' in the Northwest — Xi'an Gao Family Courtyard

Before going to Xi'an, a friend who is an expert in ancient architecture told me to visit the "Gao Song-song Former Residence at No. 144 Beiyuanmen" in Xi'an. He said that Shaanxi doesn't have many large courtyard mansions, and this one, built during the Ming dynasty, differs from the typical Shanxi courtyard architecture. Since I stayed for several days at the Home Inn (Zhonglou North Branch) near the Bell Tower, very close to Muslim Street, the Gao Family Courtyard was hidden among the snack stalls on Muslim Street and very easy to find.

I suggest going early in the morning when there are fewer tour groups. By the time you finish exploring, you can catch a performance of the Northwest-style shadow puppetry. The entrance fee for Gao Family Courtyard is 15 yuan, with no exemptions. However, seniors over 65 and students can get half-price tickets for 7.5 yuan. Watching the shadow puppet show requires a separate ticket.

The courtyard's facade is not large, and the interior layout is neither too big nor too small. It was originally built during the Chongzhen reign of the Ming dynasty. In the tenth year of the Tongzhi reign of the Qing dynasty (1871), a descendant of the Gao family, Gao Yuesong, achieved the rank of bangyan (second place) in the imperial examinations and was awarded an imperial plaque reading "Bangyan Jidi" (Second Place Scholar). In fact, it is a brick-and-wood compound with three interconnected courtyards from south to north, comprising 81 rooms with a living area of 2,800 square meters.

In 1999, the courtyard was listed as a "Sino-Norwegian Key Historic District Preservation Project", and through cooperation between China and Norway, it was renovated. In 2003, the Art Department of the Xi'an China Painting Academy oversaw the most thorough restoration in its history, bringing back the courtyard's original appearance. It has since been designated as a base for the Department of Architecture at the Norwegian University of Science and Technology (Trondheim), the Department of Architecture at Xi'an University of Architecture and Technology, and the Chang'an Historical and Cultural City Research Institute.

The brick carvings inside are exquisitely detailed, and the couplets, Ming and Qing furniture, etc., are impressive. There is also a stage in the courtyard that regularly hosts folk art performances like puppet shows and shadow puppetry, making it a great place to learn about Shaanxi folk customs. Particularly amusing are the talking parrots kept in the courtyard; they really can mimic a few simple phrases, much to visitors' delight.