Finally Found You ~ Honeymoon Trip to Xi'an, Lijiang, Lugu Lake, Shangri-La, Chongqing, and Chengdu
I used to be used to traveling alone with a backpack, a DSLR, weaving through crowds.
Climbing the towering Mount Tai alone, strolling through brightly-lit Wuzhen alone, crossing the picturesque Huangshan alone, wandering through the scenic Zhangjiajie alone; also the one-path Huashan, the 3D city Chongqing, the crowded Bund in Shanghai, the historic Xi’an; the bustle of Beijing, the ease of Chengdu, the cold of Harbin, the talented people and land of Lijiang; the endless hills of Lushan, the crystal-clear water of Lugu Lake, the arrogant monkeys of Emei, and the never-ending roads of Phoenix Ancient Town.
Traveling alone is free and unrestrained, but also lonely and silent.
Finally, I ended the solo travels and welcomed the honeymoon for two.
This trip and the cities I’ve basically all been to before, so walking through them again could avoid many unnecessary pitfalls. The timing was mid-to-late October, avoiding the National Day peak season, hitting a low-season period, so flight and accommodation costs were quite reasonable. The itinerary is as follows:
Day 1: Dalian–Xi’an (21:50–00:15), stay at Ji Hotel (Xi’an Bell Tower Luomashi Branch) for 3 days
Day 2: Xi’an sightseeing (Small Wild Goose Pagoda, Bell and Drum Towers, Muslim Street, Shaanxi History Museum, Big Wild Goose Pagoda, Grand Tang Mall)
Day 3: Xi’an sightseeing (Shuyuanmen, Yongxingfang, Xi’an City Wall)
Day 4: Xi’an–Lijiang (8:10–10:40) explore Lijiang Old Town, stay at Lazybug Inn Lijiang for 3 days
Day 5: Lijiang – explore Lijiang Old Town (Mu’s Residence)
Day 6: Lijiang–Jade Dragon Snow Mountain (booked a 6-person small group tour on Ctrip)
Day 7: Lijiang–Lugu Lake (chartered car) visit Lige Peninsula, stay at Xinyue·Yaji Lakeside Mountain Villa Resort for 3 days
Day 8: Lige Peninsula (special reason, couldn’t explore due to illness; originally planned to climb Gemu Goddess Mountain)
Day 9: Lugu Lake circumambulation (chartered car)
Day 10: Lugu Lake–Lijiang (shared ride), stay at Home Inn (Lijiang Old Town Bus Station Branch)
Day 11: Lijiang–Shangri-La (bus), Napa Lake Grassland, Dukezong Ancient Town, stay at Orange Crystal Shangri-La for 2 days
Day 12: Shangri-La, full day at Pudacuo National Park
Day 13: Shangri-La–Chengdu (Kuanzhai Alley), stay at Mercure Chengdu Kuanzhai Alley for 2 days
Day 14: Chengdu sightseeing (Wuhou Shrine, Jinli Ancient Street, Chunxi Road)
Day 15: Chengdu–Chongqing (high-speed rail), Ciqikou Ancient Town, Jiefangbei Pedestrian Street, Hongya Cave, stay at Ji Hotel Chongqing Jiefangbei Pedestrian Street
Day 16: Chongqing–Dalian (go home)
Main trip lasted two weeks, a bit long, so by the time we reached Chengdu and Chongqing we were already pretty exhausted.
Main expenses:
Flights: Dalian–Xi’an 395 yuan × 2
Xi’an–Lijiang 490 yuan × 2
Shangri-La–Chengdu 500 yuan × 2
Chongqing–Dalian 420 yuan × 2
Tickets & transfers: Xi’an airport private transfer 111 yuan
Lijiang–Lugu Lake chartered car 400 yuan (there are also buses to Lugu Lake, about 80 yuan per person, or shared rides at 100 per person; but now rules are strict, better to share a ride with a registered taxi or ride-hailing, or you might get stuck halfway)
Lugu Lake circumambulation chartered car 400 yuan
Lugu Lake–Lijiang shared ride 100 yuan × 2
Lijiang–Shangri-La bus 71 yuan × 2
Chengdu–Chongqing high-speed rail 146 yuan × 2
Accommodation: Xi’an: Ji Hotel (Bell Tower Luomashi) 267 yuan × 3 nights
Lijiang: Lazybug Inn 244 yuan × 3 nights
Lugu Lake: Xinyue·Yaji Lakeside Mountain Villa 1271 yuan × 3 nights
Lijiang: Home Inn (Old Town Bus Station) 112 yuan × 1 night
Shangri-La: Orange Crystal 229 yuan × 2 nights
Chengdu: Mercure Kuanzhai Alley 340 yuan × 2 nights
Chongqing: Ji Hotel Jiefangbei 267 yuan × 1 night
Attractions: Xi’an Bell & Drum Tower combo ticket 50 yuan × 2
Xi’an City Wall + bike rental 100 yuan × 2
Lijiang Mu’s Residence 40 yuan × 2
Jade Dragon Snow Mountain group tour (via Ctrip) 519 yuan × 2
Lugu Lake entrance 70 yuan × 2
Napa Lake Grassland entrance 30 yuan × 2
Pudacuo National Park entrance 100 yuan × 2 (paid in cash, might not remember the exact price)
Chengdu Wuhou Shrine 30 yuan × 2
Apart from meals and souvenirs, the main costs were roughly these.
Xi’an, one of China’s four ancient capitals. This wasn’t my first time; my previous trip to Huashan is still vivid. Xi’an is a city that offers both history and food. Huashan is not far away, reachable by direct high-speed train. If you’ve got the guts, Huashan is a great choice. This time we only explored Xi’an itself, because my wife is afraid of heights, so we skipped Huashan.
The first day, we flew from Dalian to Xi’an at night, 21:50–00:15. Evening flights are quite affordable. You can start exploring right away the next morning. Xi’an airport has shuttle buses to the city that run even after the last flight, so no worry about getting into town. The airport is quite far, about an hour’s drive.
This was already my third visit. For accommodation, I still recommend staying inside the city wall—near Bell Tower, Drum Tower, or the wall area. Plenty of hotels, convenient to everything.
If you come just for Xi’an, three or four days can cover most. Day 1: sights inside the wall—Bell & Drum Towers, Muslim Street, City Wall, Shuyuanmen, Yongxingfang. Day 2: head farther to Terracotta Warriors, Huaqing Pool, come back in the evening for Big Wild Goose Pagoda and Grand Tang Mall. Day 3: set aside a full day for Huashan and experience the “Sword Contest on Huashan.”
We planned two full days in Xi’an, arriving on the first night, flying to Lijiang early on the fourth morning. Our schedule was relaxed—just wanted to wander the ancient city casually. We didn’t go to Huashan or the warriors. Xi’an’s daytime charm is ancient, but when the lights come on at night, the Chinese ambiance shines even more. One evening we spent on the City Wall, another at Grand Tang Mall.
A couple of friends planned to meet us in Xi’an, arriving around noon by airport bus at Bell Tower. So in the morning, we visited the Small Wild Goose Pagoda first.
Detailed plan: morning Small Wild Goose Pagoda, midday Bell & Drum Towers, lunch at Muslim Street, afternoon Shaanxi History Museum (free tickets can be booked via WeChat official account ‘Shaanxi History Museum Ticket System’; you can also queue for free tickets on-site depending on visitor flow, so booking ahead is safer), evening heading to Big Wild Goose Pagoda & Grand Tang Mall (right next to the pagoda square).
Small Wild Goose Pagoda is free; you can get in with ID. It’s outside the city wall, reachable by bus or bike. Since Dalian isn’t a bike-friendly city, we opted to cycle.
Even in low season, it was Saturday, so quite crowded. Queuing to exchange tickets and enter took over half an hour—many tour groups, including a foreign group, since it’s free. Late October in Xi’an is chilly; Europeans wearing shorts with down jackets is something I’ve seen before.
The pagoda is inside Jianfu Temple, which is like a park, quite large. You can spend 1–2 hours. There’s a museum inside that’s worth a look. September/October and March/April in Xi’an have perfect weather—neither too hot nor too cold, ideal for strolling.
The museum collection isn’t huge, and since we already planned the Shaanxi History Museum in the afternoon, we just browsed casually. When it was about time, we headed back to Bell Tower to meet our friends.
Bell and Drum Towers combo ticket costs 50 yuan per person. There’s not much inside, but as Xi’an’s landmark, they’re worth a look. Go to Bell Tower first, then Drum Tower; Muslim Street is just below.
After the towers, it’s paradise for foodies. Muslim Street is the most famous commercial street in Xi’an—there’s no off-season, only peak. Every time I come, it’s packed. Xi’an specialties like liangpi, biangbiang noodles, roujiamo, yangrou paomo—plenty to enjoy.
There’s also a local drink, Bingfeng.
We didn’t try the mutton paomo. I tried it on my first visit, and as a northeasterner, the texture was still hard to accept.
I’m not a diehard foodie, so all the photos I have are stolen from my wife’s phone. Muslim Street was so crowded I had to keep my camera safely in my bag.
After eating our fill, we chose to cycle to the Shaanxi History Museum. The distance was quite long, and as a Dalian native living without bike lanes, zipping among cars on busy roads was... an acquired taste.
The Shaanxi History Museum is really worth a visit. They say if you want to understand a city, first visit its history museum. As an ancient capital, Xi’an’s museum has rich collections. Make sure to go to the south gate.
We didn’t go to the Mausoleum of the First Qin Emperor, so seeing the terracotta warriors in the museum had to do. Without a guide, most people won’t grasp the historical value. If you go to the mausoleum, hiring a guide is worthwhile, or you can tag along with a tour group. Same for the museum.
That’s the legendary tiger tally used to command troops.
The reverse-flow pot is a quirky piece of ancient ceramic art.
This pot flips the traditional way of filling from the top; instead, you turn it upside down, pour water into the bottom, then set it upright and pour out—hence the “reverse-flow pot.”
There are video explanations in the museum clearly showing the principle.
The Shaanxi History Museum already wore us out, especially from all the cycling. The Big Wild Goose Pagoda was nearby, just a short walk. The music fountain at the pagoda square is reportedly the largest in China by area. I saw it once before, and it was pretty good.
As night fell, the Big Wild Goose Pagoda Square came alive.
For dinner, we made do at the food street near the north square. Xi’an is all about noodles.
Right across from the north square is the Grand Tang Mall, which had a viral moment online not long ago.
The statue of Xuanzang at the north square. Xuanzang, also known as Tripitaka, is often called Tang Seng. To resolve Buddhist doctrinal disputes, he set out westward on foot in the first year of Zhenguan, traveling 50,000 li and enduring hardships to reach Nalanda in India, the center of Buddhism, to obtain true scriptures. He’s the prototype for the Journey to the West novel.
Looking back from the Grand Tang Mall, you see the Big Wild Goose Pagoda, beautifully framed by the dazzling lights.
The Grand Tang Mall is truly stunning, especially under night lights—very Chinese. Crowds are huge, and the street is long; just wandering might take an hour.
There was a performance that went viral online, but unfortunately the “wobbly lady” wasn’t there this time.
By now we’d walked quite far; the pagoda was already getting smaller behind us.
At the end of the mall there’s a small stage; when we arrived, a band was singing. Tired from walking, we sat and listened for a while.
By then we were exhausted, having walked far too much. Walking back was impossible, and seeing the swarming crowds, the idea of hailing a taxi slowly faded. Getting back to the hotel became a real problem. Really, if you go to the Grand Tang Mall, do think about how to get back.
Taxis were nowhere to be seen, Didi was endlessly queuing. Checked Baidu Maps, so we ended up taking a bus, but the bus stop was still a long walk away—more hiking.
On the way to the bus stop, we passed by the Xi’an Tang City Wall Relic Park. Inside, there’s a Poem Chanting Pond. Its architectural style immediately caught our eye; it felt like we’d discovered a new world. No one was around, so we sneaked in. It was like a circular maze; when you walk inside, speaking creates echoes, and the center has the strongest echo. Truly a Poem Chanting Pond—an unexpected delight.
The walls are engraved with countless poems; that’s the very center.
Thankfully, we caught the last bus, and day one was done. In Xi’an I booked Ji Hotel (Bell Tower Luomashi), a great location near the Bell Tower. Take the airport bus to Bell Tower Hotel, and it’s a short two-minute walk. There’s even a snack street downstairs, lively at night though quiets down after 11 p.m. The hotel was newly opened, with modern facilities, a huge TV, smart toilet—worth recommending.
Since we skipped Huashan and the Terracotta Warriors, today’s schedule was loose. Plus a little morning rain and the Xi’an marathon closing many roads, much of the day was spontaneous.
Morning we headed to Shuyuanmen, at noon we ate at Yongxingfang, in the afternoon we casually visited the Xi’an Incident Memorial Hall, and finally the Xi’an City Wall.
Shuyuanmen is a street selling calligraphy and painting supplies, full of literary vibes. Because of the rain and early hour, it was quiet. The Forest of Steles is inside Shuyuanmen. Without a guide, it’s just steles—hard to understand.
Yesterday was Muslim Street, today Yongxingfang. Muslim Street’s snacks are special because there’s no pork; the flavor differs greatly from other cities’ snack streets. Yongxingfang feels more like a standard snack street, though still full of Shaanxi specialties.
The bowl-breaking wine was a viral hit online; many people still come to try it.
Yongxingfang is near the east gate of the city wall; at night from the wall you can see all its lights and bustle.
Because we wanted to stay on the wall until evening, going up too early seemed wasteful, so we visited the Xi’an Incident Memorial Hall on the way—not far from Yongxingfang, just a stroll away.
Honestly, after three visits, I’m still captivated by the Xi’an City Wall. I love that feeling of strolling along it, from day into night.
The whole loop is very long; walking it takes at least half a day, so you can rent bikes—single or tandem. Even on a bike, it takes about an hour, and the surfaces are stone-paved, extremely bumpy. Your backside gets a serious jolting. We first biked a full loop, then walked a while longer.
The wall has four main gates: East (Changle), South (Yongning), West (Anding), North (Anyuan). I find the Yongning Gate area nicest, and it’s close to the Bell Tower—you can see the illuminated Bell Tower at night from there.
We rented singles: one red, one white.
As night fell, the wall’s lights came on.
Passing by Xi’an Railway Station from the wall.
At the east gate we looked down and saw that bustling patch—it had to be Yongxingfang we visited at noon, still so lively. So we decided to descend there, visit Yongxingfang again, and solve dinner at the same time.
The buildings on the wall looked especially photogenic after dark.
Nighttime, back at Yongxingfang, still buzzing with people.
Two days in Xi’an wrapped up nicely. My wife said she didn’t like Xi’an—she doesn’t get history, couldn’t relate to it.
Xi’an, as an ancient, richly historic city with a strong Chinese flavor, still keeps me coming back. After all, this was my third time. Actually, Xi’an was just a stopover—there’s no direct flight from Dalian to Lijiang, and transferring here was affordable, plus two days of fun. A good choice.
Lijiang is a place very close to the sky; arriving here always makes me feel like clouds are floating right above, almost touchable.
As a northeasterner, Lijiang feels very remote. Second visit here, yet I’m still enchanted—just like the six times I’ve been to Wuzhen, there’s something unforgettable.
Most people flying to Yunnan go straight to Kunming, since the provincial capital has more flights. Direct flights to Lijiang are fewer, and Dalian has none. Flying to Kunming felt too far from Lijiang, so we transited via Xi’an. Normally from Kunming you’d go to Dali first, but now Dali is Dali without Erhai Lake—like a soul missing, because overdevelopment polluted the lake so badly they had to close it.
Lijiang’s altitude isn’t too high, but day-night temperature swings are big. The standout feature this season: people on the street wear everything—down jackets, shorts, or down jackets on top and shorts below (copying Europeans?).
There’s plenty to do around Lijiang, but I kept our schedule easy—didn’t want to be as exhausted as a tour group running morning to night. We flew early from Xi’an to Lijiang, and since I’d booked three nights at the inn, there was a pickup service. The airport is quite far from Lijiang Old Town, so check if your hotel offers pickup. I booked Lazybug Inn via Ctrip. Honestly, it didn’t match my expectations. I’ve visited Lijiang and stayed in a local inn before; comparison hurts. That previous inn left such a deep impression. The standout problem: I booked a Jade Dragon Snow Mountain day tour through the inn (thinking, let them earn a little, everyone happy), but they couldn’t secure the big cable car ticket to 4680m. I know those tickets are tough, but without it I said I’d skip the tour, yet they wanted to charge 20% cancellation fee. Unbelievable—my trust in their service evaporated. I cancelled and rebooked a next-day group tour on Ctrip, guaranteeing the big cable car ticket, with a Mercedes van transfer, 5-6 pax, which was very satisfying.
Around noon we arrived at Lijiang Old Town. Up early for the flight, after reaching the inn we rested a bit then started exploring. Lijiang Old Town is arguably the largest ancient town I’ve visited. Over two trips, just wandering aimlessly inside added up to three or four days, yet it still feels like there’s so much unseen.
The town centers on Sifang Street and spreads out. Rumor says there are over 4000 inns, plus shops, bars, etc.—imagine how vast it is. Inns are incredibly diverse; you’ll definitely find one you like, but if you suffer from choice paralysis, it might be tough. Even with 4000+ inns, during peak season it’s hard to find a room, and the alleys are wall-to-wall people. So low season is better. Even now, the crowds aren’t small.
Shawls are everywhere—seems an essential buy in Lijiang. Shops selling shawls often have a weaving loom, maybe even a young lady busily working.
Nights in Lijiang Old Town are beautiful, with constant streams of people, lively and bustling. All kinds of shops dazzle you. Though many goods probably come from Yiwu, some unique Lijiang specialties wait to be patiently discovered.
In the off-season, not so deafening; turn a corner and you might find a path just for yourself. No need for navigation, no fixed route—wander aimlessly in the ancient town at night is really a pleasure.
Lijiang gets ample rain; always carry an umbrella—a drizzle might start anytime.
Yak and black goat racks—a local specialty near Tibetan areas. Yak meat is plentiful and looks tempting. At first I thought it was 48 yuan per skewer, but actually per jin. My wife couldn’t resist and got one; that tiny box cost over 100—pricey, but the taste was decent, though a bit tough.
The Big Waterwheel is another landmark. Reaching it means you’re at the edge of town. Nearby, a small square is packed with people, locals doing square dancing.
Sifang Street is the town center; a square plaza, roads branching everywhere.
Once at Sifang Street, the bar street isn’t far.
Neon-lit bar street, all styles beckoning—lively, soaring, tender songs mixed together. If you enjoy drinking and bustle, it’s a good choice, just don’t run into a “wine hostess” thinking it’s a romantic encounter.
The town really is huge; even with a good sense of direction, I sometimes got lost in the crowd. If you want to find a specific spot, Baidu Maps helps. For those poor with direction, finding their inn can become a major problem.
This is the small courtyard of the Lijiang inn we stayed in. Every inn must have one thing: a tea table.
When in Lijiang, staying at a town inn, you must sit down and have a few cups of tea brewed by the staff, listen to their stories about Lijiang. Sometimes you meet fellow travelers, all tired from walking, sit together for tea, share experiences—it’s really nice.
Most inns in Lijiang Old Town are wooden structures; under night lights they have an antique charm, though soundproofing isn’t so great.
The second day was originally for Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, but because the big cable car ticket wasn’t secured, it got postponed to tomorrow.
Lijiang has many places to visit, but we decided to go nowhere—just laze around the old town for a day.
Lijiang Old Town is what people commonly mean by Lijiang Ancient Town; it’s the largest. Not far away is Shuhe Ancient Town, smaller and less crowded, perhaps even more leisurely.
You can also watch “Lijiang Eternal Love” show; I wanted to see it. I watched the Hangzhou Songcheng one before—a performance you must see in a lifetime, truly impressive.
Lijiang’s main ethnic group is the Naxi; women do the work, and they appreciate plumpness, calling beautiful, capable women “Pangjinmei.” On the way to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, the driver uncle told us Naxi men are lazy; him working as a driver is considered exceptionally diligent.
Mu’s Residence was the mansion of the local ruler in Yunnan, essentially a local emperor. It survived several dynasties and remained prosperous. Being far from the capital, the emperor found it hard to govern. Its architecture is almost palatial, grand and imposing. Ticket 30 yuan, includes guided tour. After buying tickets, you wait until a group forms, then a guide leads everyone. Following the guide makes the history far more vivid. After the tour, you can roam freely. Without a guide, you’d be clueless. Behind Mu’s Residence is Lion Hill, the highest point in the old town; climbing up gives a panoramic view. From the residence itself you can also see the whole town. The residence is built on a hillside, so climbing is required. My wife, always psychosomatic about altitude sickness, felt it coming on, so we skipped Lion Hill. After the residence, we continued wandering.
Lion Hill closes at night; no panoramic night shots.
I forgot the name of the lunch restaurant near Mu’s Residence, at the end of Zhongyi Lane, some music bar. Decent taste and price—we came twice. They also have group meal deals online; the yak hotpot set was good. While eating, a granny came selling pomegranates, carrying a bamboo basket. At her age, lugging heavy fruit isn’t easy. She was Naxi, so communication wasn’t smooth; the waitress helped translate. Fruits in Lijiang are cheap, pomegranates abundant.
Actually, when in Lijiang, you should enjoy that unhurried, carefree life. Don’t rush between attractions; set aside a full day just to stroll the old town—it’s a true pleasure.
The town is vast; slowly wandering, you might spend the whole day on different streets, pop into shops that catch your eye. Though commercialized, browsing can be relaxing, and you’ll find a little something that catches your fancy.
Jade Dragon Snow Mountain is Lijiang’s cash cow; tourists flock to it. Actually, towards Shangri-La and Tibetan areas there are many snow mountains to climb, but this one is famous. The scenic area is huge; a day tour is best. The critical point: can you book the big cable car ticket to 4680m? Hard to get on your own; most are pre-booked by travel agencies. I booked through Ctrip a 5–6 person group, about 500 yuan pax, Mercedes van, lunch (self-service hotpot), entrance fee, cable car ticket, plus cold-weather gear (down jacket, oxygen tank). Guaranteed big cable car unless weather closes it.
Weather is crucial; snow on the peak after recent snowfall and a clear day are ideal. We went right after a snowfall, but the boardwalk hadn’t been cleared, so from the big cable car at 4506m, walking up to 4680m was only partly open—we couldn’t reach the top, regrettably. We hung around at 4506m, then descended. After hotpot lunch, we went to Blue Moon Valley, my wife’s favorite spot.
The water in Blue Moon Valley shifts from green to blue downstream, like a watercolor painting. You can stroll along the water’s edge for about an hour. There are electric carts, but I suggest skipping them—the distance isn’t far, just walk and enjoy. Blue Moon Valley’s upstream faces the snow mountain; views are stunning. The upper waters are shallow and green; deeper parts downstream turn cyan. Every shot could be a wallpaper.
Blue Moon Valley is a wedding photo hotspot, like Dalian’s coast or Hangzhou’s West Lake. We saw over ten couples shooting. The sky feels so close, clouds seemingly within arm’s reach.
Jade Dragon Snow Mountain is definitely worth visiting; weather is the decisive factor. There is also the “Impression Lijiang” outdoor show; missed it twice—when you watch it, the schedule gets tight. Overall, climbing to 4680m and circling Blue Moon Valley is just right, no need to rush morning to night; leave town around 8 a.m. and return by 4–5 p.m.
Evening back in the old town, we returned to that music bar we liked, ordered a four-person set meal. The staff looked bewildered seeing two people order that much—haha. Maybe because we were tired from the mountain, we felt like eating lots, or my wife thought we could. We sat upstairs; off-season, the whole floor was empty, so we took the best spot, great atmosphere. The four-person set came with a huge basin of rice—unforgettable serving. We stared at it, then asked to swap for a small bowl to avoid waste. Even four couldn’t finish that. We also ordered a small fruit wine, just a little, nice taste.
Sipping, so pleasant~
Three days in Lijiang ended here. Lijiang is a place worth savoring; it makes you want to return again. My wife said she wants to come back.
I’ve been to Lugu Lake once before, but it was rushed, so I always longed for it.
Lugu Lake isn’t far from Lijiang in straight distance, but it’s all winding mountain roads, about 4 hours. The scenery along the way is beautiful. You can take a bus or charter a car. The bus goes to Daluoshui Village; if you stay there, it drops you right at the inn. If staying at Lige Peninsula, you’d need a taxi onward.
Both visits I stayed at Lige Peninsula, a Lugu Lake landmark with gorgeous views. I recommend Lige; there are dozens of inns around. Those on the peninsula itself are hardest to book, especially peak season. Last time, I stayed at Peninsula Sunshine Inn, probably the best—every room has a balcony and lake view, but pricey. This time, I chose Xinyue·Yaji Lakeside Mountain Villa, a newly opened place, mainly because its 270-degree panoramic room attracted me. Booked three nights at a premium.
Finally, I was back at the longed-for Lugu Lake.
For the ride, I chartered a sedan via ride-hailing, 400 yuan. If shared, it’s 100 per person. After hesitating, I went with chartered—the advantage is stopping for photos anytime along the breathtaking route. But the winding roads made my wife carsick; those prone to motion sickness had better take the bus; bigger vehicles sway less.
We stopped a few times; this is the Jinsha River.
There are rest stops and viewing platforms along the way. My wife, too dizzy, bought motion sickness patches.
Lugu Lake entrance ticket is now 70 yuan because its star rating was downgraded to 4A.
The scenic area is huge; inside are many villages, most commercialized. The indigenous people here are the Mosuo. Why “Mosuo people” instead of “Mosuo ethnic group”? Because the 56 recognized ethnic groups in China don’t include Mosuo; they are a branch of the Naxi, so they are called the Mosuo people.
The Mosuo are known as the “walking marriage tribe,” the most fascinating part. Most Mosuo no longer practice walking marriage. Traditionally, if a man meets a woman he likes on the walking marriage bridge during the day, at night, after her family is asleep and with her consent, he can enter her room. The Mosuo have no marriage; the woman’s children are raised by her and her brothers, while the man raises his nieces and nephews. What a practice…
Lugu Lake straddles Yunnan and Sichuan; two-thirds belongs to Sichuan. There are two ticket gates; we entered from Yunnan. Right after entering, uphill, there’s a viewing platform overlooking the whole lake. Unfortunately, heavy clouds and fog dulled the famously clear, blue-mirror effect.
From the platform: Daluoshui Village.
The path from Lige Village to Lige Peninsula.
The pig-trough boats look shabby but photogenic. Weather again dimmed the results. These boats are rowed manually, slow and leisurely on the lake, a delightful experience. But too long might get tiring. Many spots have them; if you’ve seen the TV show “Dear Inn,” you can take a boat to visit that inn; otherwise skip.
Our stay, Xinyue·Yaji, had a great location and huge floor-to-ceiling windows. Newly opened, modern facilities: smart toilet, electric curtains, projector—a clean, contemporary-style inn.
This one’s definitely a staged photo.
Behind Lige Peninsula is a classic viewing platform; that classic Lugu Lake picture is taken here. Here’s one I took last time when weather was perfect.
After the four-hour ride and rest at the inn, we stepped out at dusk. There’s a small path from the platform leading to the peninsula. Lugu Lake is vast, night lighting sparse, unlike Wuzhen or Phoenix Ancient Town’s dazzling evenings.
Back at the inn, they had an electric buggy to shuttle guests around nearby.
An exhausting day, so a nice bath.
Due to my wife’s illness, day eight was cancelled, resting at the hotel. Originally we planned Gemu Goddess Mountain. Lige Peninsula is too remote; the only pharmacy didn’t open all day. We couldn’t even get stomach medicine. As a good inn, stocking basic meds would be wise. Resting a full day, she felt a little better. Finally, we could go out.
Today, we planned to circle the lake. I always wanted to bike around, but considering time, distance, and fitness, biking seemed daunting. Moreover, rental bikes are hard to find now—roads narrow, traffic risky, and electric bikes are banned. So we chartered a car, 400 yuan/day, or shared 100 yuan pax.
The loop is about 70 km, so biking needs serious stamina.
All three days, weather wasn’t great—overcast, little sunshine. The lake looked dark and gloomy, unlike my previous visit’s brilliant blue mirror.
Starting from Lige Peninsula, counterclockwise.
There are two “Lover’s Beaches,” one in Yunnan, one in Sichuan. First, the Yunnan one—I think it’s better, with a bigger sandy beach to get closer to the clear water.
Soon we reached Daluoshui Village, not far from Lige. Last time I hiked from Lige to Daluoshui (about 10 km) and caught the bus back to Lijiang—took half a day. Many guesthouses line the shore there, but the scenery I feel is a notch below Lige.
Encountered a flock of little black ducks on the lake, no idea what species.
Around noon, we arrived where you can boat to the “Dear Inn”; fee about 180 yuan per person, if I recall. The boat ride is long, human-rowed, slow. In the middle, you can taste the lake water—it’s potable, slightly sweet. I tried a little.
The rower, a handsome local uncle, spoke a dialect hard to understand. A round trip takes over an hour, tiring work, but they looked unfazed.
In the center, the water’s very deep but still clear; you can vaguely see watergrass swaying.
High mountains, flowing waters, blue sky, white clouds—painting-perfect.
Because of inconvenient access, Lugu Lake still retains much natural beauty, like a hidden paradise. However, with airports and roads, visitors increase, and one day it may repeat Erhai’s tragedy. So come while the water is still this clear.
Approaching “Dear Inn,” I recalled scenes from the show.
The capable boss Wang Ke, the ever-busy proprietress Liu Tao, the bickering couple Kan Qingzi and Ji Lingchen (sadly split now), and Chen Xiang who only made hand-grabbed pancakes. Season 1 was nostalgic. My first visit was while it aired; I caught up on the show after coming home. Since I didn’t fully explore Lugu Lake last time, and then watched the show, I always wanted to return.
I love the transparent water.
Now “Dear Inn” is fully a tourist attraction; the original inn is almost impossible to book, I heard.
Remember Yi Yangqianxi silently painting here.
Here’s the boundary between Yunnan and Sichuan. Once you cross, the architectural style feels different.
Caohai (Grass Sea) is why Lugu Lake’s water stays so clean—this wetland purifies it.
The famous Walking Marriage Bridge, a crucial spot for the Mosuo’s romantic meetings. They say you mustn’t turn back, so our driver looped around to wait on the other side.
Copper statue charging for photos on the bridge.
Under the gloomy sky, the water mirrored the bleakness.
Goddess Bay, said to be the most beautiful spot on Lugu Lake. The winding road down was partially collapsed, so many vehicles skip it, keeping crowds low. Too bad about the gray skies.
“Haoren Snacks” – I remember Wang Ke and Chen Xiang ate there in the show, back then 30 yuan all-you-can-eat. Now prices have risen. We tried it out of curiosity. Chicken stewed with matsutake mushrooms—but with matsutake being so pricey, was it real? At least it’s all you can eat. The taste was okay, maybe because we were hungry, even the tomato with sugar tasted great.
When we saw Lige Peninsula again, it meant our loop was wrapping up. We left at 8:30 a.m., returned around 3 p.m., about 6–7 hours. Besides the weather dampening the beauty, the day was quite good.
A small boat floating on Lugu Lake.
Here’s a photo from my previous solo trip, when sunshine and blue skies created that heart-lifting reflection.
Three days at Lugu Lake ended. Many still haven’t heard of it. The show boosted its fame and visitors, but with more tourists, its nature will erode and commercialization intensify. So visit while there’s still this untouched charm. Unfortunately, due to various reasons, my wife didn’t enjoy Lugu Lake as much.
Shangri-La, in the Tibetan language Diqing means “the sun and moon in the heart.” It’s a paradise so many yearn for, said to be the closest place to heaven. The name changed at the end of 2001; before it was Zhongdian County, officially renamed Shangri-La County on December 17, 2001.
Actually, the straight-line distance from Lugu Lake to Shangri-La isn’t far, but no direct road exists; you must backtrack via Lijiang—a triangular situation. Both now have airports, a route would be convenient. Buses from Lijiang to Shangri-La are available, some direct, some via Tiger Leaping Gorge, which is closer to Lijiang. Time permitting, a side trip to the gorge is good. Perhaps tired from travel, after debating we chose to go directly to Shangri-La.
Day 10, we rested in the morning at Lugu Lake, took a shared ride back to Lijiang around noon, stayed at Home Inn near the bus station for easy early next-day departure, and even wandered the old town in the evening. Next morning, a bus to Shangri-La. Lots of time spent on buses that day.
About 4 hours Lijiang to Shangri-La, arrived past noon. Stayed at Orange Hotel, not far from the old town, good location. The old town in Shangri-La is very small, so no need to stay inside like in Lijiang.
Upon arrival, the Tibetan area vibe is strong; architecture looks bold and grand.
My first time in Shangri-La, my closest yet to Tibetan region, truly a soul-cleansing sensation.
Originally, the first stop was Ganden Sumtseling Monastery, but after a Didi driver lady gave us suggestions, we changed plans and went to Napa Lake Grassland first—my wife also wasn’t keen on temples.
At the grassland, they charged 30 yuan per person for entrance and offered horseback riding; we felt a bit tricked, so just bought tickets and strolled. I figured Napa Lake is so vast, surely not every section charges. But once we walked in and saw the stunning landscape, we knew it was worth it.
The season wasn’t warm, the grass not deep green; scattered yaks and horses grazed, occasionally fertilizing the fields. Still, the scenery was postcard-perfect.
Beyond the grassland, that’s probably Shika Snow Mountain, climbable nearby.
Sky, snow mountains, lake, grassland—a view you’ll never see in a city. Standing on the prairie looking into the distance, utterly refreshing.
Hair braiding—we got these braids last night wandering Lijiang Old Town. We’d been there three days without it, but she insisted it suited Shangri-La.
Let us live carefree, astride our horses, sharing the world’s splendor, singing and drinking with youthful passion… that photo instantly brought this song to mind. (Mental image: Ziwei! Ziwei! two huge nostrils…) Though we didn’t ride, plenty of people wanted to feel that “galloping” vibe.
Researching Shangri-La, I never put Napa Grassland as a main attraction, thinking a prairie has little to see, plus I never figured out the logistics. So it was a happy accident, and under clear skies, the scenery was absolutely worth it.
We spent 1–2 hours there; the driver lady waited and took us back. She also suggested visiting a Tibetan family’s home—I’d considered that, but we eventually dropped it. Group tours often include that; next time I’d like to try.
After resting, we walked to Dukezong Ancient Town. Its style is expansive, roads wide—instantly “luxurious” feeling, very different from Lijiang.
The town is tiny; off-season, independent travelers are few, most come in groups. Plus the altitude can affect people.
Speaking of altitude, our Orange Hotel room was on the 6th floor. When we returned, the elevator was broken, we climbed up, and my wife ended up lying on the bed inhaling the leftover oxygen from Jade Dragon Snow Mountain… the scene was too funny to describe.
Dukezong’s storefronts have a thick, heavy, wealthy feel.
A Tibetan mastiff lounged in the square, basking in the sun. Looked docile, but nobody dared tease it. You pay to take photos with it.
At this higher altitude, cut back on exertion. A slight slope can leave you breathless.
The world’s largest prayer wheel in Dukezong; it takes at least ten people to turn it. We lucked into a tour group arriving just then; otherwise, we couldn’t have spun it in the off-season quiet.
A place my wife long dreamed of: Pudacuo National Park, where Xie Na and Zhang Jie had their wedding, or maybe she just likes Zhang Jie’s songs. Huge park; you ride shuttle buses between spots, like Zhangjiajie. Because of visitor impact, several areas are now closed; only Shudu Lake is open.
It’s a distance from town; we took a minibus contracted by locals. The driver, a local Tibetan, shared stories and insights—he kept saying “Tashi Delek.”
Inside, altitude is much higher, averaging over 3000m, some near 4000. Due to my wife’s psychosomatic tendencies, we bought two oxygen bottles. Definitely colder; we rented heavy coats.
Weather wasn’t as good as yesterday, somewhat overcast; sunnier would have been even better. And the season meant less lush vegetation.
Dressed in the rented coats, warm first. Actually, not as ugly as feared—though the red woman’s coat was a bit…
Yaks watched her leaping—she takes jump shots everywhere. Not really jumping that high, just pulling legs up, and I captured the moment well.
Following the lake trail, quite a distance, took about 2–3 hours. Thank goodness for few people; otherwise the narrow path would be jammed.
Cows, sheep, where are they all going?
We walked through primeval forest, with free-roaming livestock. In the distance, those spots on the meadow might be cattle and sheep—too far to tell. I originally thought we’d reach that distant meadow, but the trail ended before. Maybe because many areas were closed.
At the loop’s end, a shuttle took us back to the entrance. If other sections were open, shuttles would connect them.
With most of the park closed, the day only took half the time; we were back in town around 2–3 p.m.
What I remember most in Shangri-La was dinner: a bowl of Malatang, specifically Yang Guo Fu Malatang. Probably the most expensive I’ve ever had. Near the hotel, we spent over 70 yuan total, for barely any food—in Dalian, we’d pay 30–40 max. Vegetables and fruit are pricey here because they’re shipped in.
Day–night temperature swings huge; evenings icy cold, but couldn’t resist checking the ancient town’s night scene.
Square dancing in front of Dukezong—passionate, bold, with Tibetan flair.
Many who visit Tibetan areas want a Tibetan knife. In the old town, prices are high; outside, it’s hard to find shops. It’s better to buy at a factory. But taking it home is a hassle—cannot carry on, and couriers require local ID to ship. Regulations strict, so I gave up on owning one.
We spent two days in Shangri-La, flight tomorrow afternoon to Chengdu. Originally, Chengdu and Chongqing weren’t in the plan, but finding a flight Shangri-La–Chengdu worked. So a couple of days there, then Chongqing–Dalian was great. Otherwise, we’d have to bus back to Lijiang and no direct Lijiang–Dalian flight.
My wife loved Shangri-La and wants to return. Next time, we could explore nearby snow mountains or head deeper into Tibetan regions. I once dreamed of Yubeng Village—a true hidden paradise, no roads, only accessible on foot. But you need serious fitness.
Chengdu, a city you won’t want to leave once you’ve come. I wrote a travelogue about it during my solo trip. It’s just a city, but it mesmerizes—some unique charm.
The flight from Shangri-La to Chengdu took just over an hour, arriving at 3 p.m.; by the time we got downtown it was dark. Biggest relief: no more altitude-induced breathlessness—maybe even a little “oxygen drunkenness.”
In Chengdu, I booked Mercure Kuanzhai Alley, five minutes’ walk from the alley, near the metro—super convenient. Took the metro straight from the airport.
Last time I visited Kuanzhai Alley during the day; this time, I experienced it at night.
Chengdu’s specialty: pandas. Panda dolls, panda pictures everywhere—a true panda city, home to the world’s largest panda breeding center. Pandas are produced here.
Kuanzhai Alley resembles many other pedestrian commercial streets.
Though named “Kuanzhai” (Wide and Narrow), there are actually three alleys: Kuan (Wide), Zhai (Narrow), and Jing (Well).
This wood is golden-thread nanmu; a table set can cost tens of thousands of yuan.
Sichuan is rich in specialties, like face-changing opera.
Coming to Chengdu, you can’t miss Chuan Chuan Xiang (skewer hotpot). During my solo trip, I really couldn’t eat it alone, no solo hotpot either.
This “Chuantianxia” restaurant was right below Mercure. We ate skewers first, then went to Kuanzhai Alley. While on the metro, we searched for good food nearby and found this, with good reviews.
In Sichuan, when eating hotpot or skewers, the oil dipping bowl is a must, though maybe only outsiders use it. After dipping in oil, it’s not as spicy. The oil dish is already on the table, charged 5 yuan per bottle.
Since my wife can’t handle extreme spice, we ordered a Yuanyang (half-spicy half-clear) pot. But I felt we must taste real Sichuan ma la. Skewers are self-service; as first-time customers, we got a 50-yuan discount, so overall price and taste were good.
We planned to visit Wuhou Shrine and Jinli Ancient Street, but a sudden downpour while at the shrine crushed the day. Had to rush back.
Wuhou Shrine and Jinli are next to each other. Last time I was here during Spring Festival and caught the lantern fair.
Didn’t even wait for Chongqing—already started the hotpot in Chengdu. After researching online, we chose Ba Shu Da Jiang at Chunxi Road. Still a Yuanyang pot, with only a tiny clear center; looking at that boiling red oil and peppers, you know it’s spicy. My wife said Sichuan hotpot has no soul because there’s no sesame paste, only oil dipping. When the red oil melted and the pot boiled, it was very appetizing.
Duck blood—too red.
Online said this place is super popular, usually queues. But we went in the afternoon, around 2–3 p.m., and it was nearly empty. The rows of waiting stools downstairs showed it gets crowded in peak hours.
Two nights in Chengdu, though we were kind of worn out from the whole trip, and the weather wasn’t great. So we didn’t do much sightseeing; after eating and drinking, we just strolled on the streets, walked all the way to Tianfu Square after the rain stopped.
Chengdu to Chongqing is very close, like Beijing to Tianjin. Frequent high-speed trains.
Chongqing, the 5D fantasy city, definitely has a whimsical character. Its unique traits are evident even just wandering the downtown—so incredible. It’s become an internet-famous city, with crowds coming to check in. Chongqing shares something with Dalian: almost no bike lanes. Being a mountain city, cycling is nearly impossible.
Early morning, high-speed train from Chengdu to Chongqing. Once there, you can ride the famous rail transit, going through mountains, through buildings, with 90-degree bends—like a roller coaster.
We stayed at Ji Hotel Jiefangbei Pedestrian Street—probably the worst Ji Hotel I’ve stayed in, because the facilities were really old, badly needing renovation. But location right on the pedestrian street, two minutes from the Liberation Monument.
Arriving here, like my solo trip, we got off at the same subway station—a shopping mall—and once again got lost in the maze of exits. Elsewhere subway exit maps are flat; here, it’s 3D. A city where Baidu Maps fails.
After checking in, first stop: Ciqikou Ancient Town, a Chongqing-style old town winding along the hillside, requiring constant stair climbing.
In Chongqing, you see hotpot and xiaomian everywhere; in the ancient town, the most ubiquitous sight is pots of hotpot base, smelling incredibly fragrant.
My first time at Ciqikou was during Spring Festival—absolute sea of people. Now, even in low season, crowds are still big; Ciqikou is a must-visit. Shops selling chili sauce everywhere, with free samples; those who can’t handle spice should beware. My wife learned the hard way.
An ancient town with stairs—without stamina, survival in Chongqing is tough.
At Ciqikou, having a bowl of noodles is a good choice. We found a shop, specially ordered a non-spicy version, but it was still painfully spicy.
Back at the pedestrian street at dusk, we rested at the hotel, then headed out at night to Chongqing’s most iconic spot, Hongya Cave.
Hongya Cave has 11 floors; the legendary ride where you take an elevator from the 1st floor up to the 11th, and you’re still on the ground floor—flipped my mind. The nightscape is one of the best. On one side, the dazzling Hongya Cave; on the other, Qiansimen Bridge over the Jialing River.
Hongya Cave is literally a cave; looking out from inside feels like Shuilian Cave. At this moment, the bridge lights hadn’t come on. Wandering, then the bridge lit up. First time I thought the water below was the Yangtze, but later saw the map—it’s the Jialing River, soon merging with the Yangtze.
The best photo spot for Hongya Cave, the angle used in all promotional shots, was packed. Earlier you could cross the road directly, but now due to heavy crowds, crossing is blocked; you have to walk to the far end of the cave’s bottom level, go under the bridge, and come back on the opposite side—hard to find.
Hongya Cave is practically permanent peak season; anytime, especially evenings, it’s mobbed.
A young lady gave it her all to photograph her boyfriend—amusing pose.
Chongqing’s nightlife is vibrant. After Hongya Cave, we returned to Jiefangbei Pedestrian Street around 8 or 9 p.m., still crowded, mostly tourists.
This was the final day, evening flight straight to Dalian. Woke up naturally, last day just slowly wandering this fantasy city. Sometimes aimless strolls reveal unexpected urban scenery.
Kaixuan Road Elevator—stumbled upon it by accident. Baidu Maps suggested going down through there. It’s essentially an outdoor elevator, unseen in most cities; it charges a small fee. There’s also a staircase beside it. We took the elevator down, then walked back up. Very distinctive. While climbing, we saw another Chongqing feature: mahjong. Elderly folks had set up tables at the stairway entrance, deeply engrossed.
Wandering, we discovered Baixiang Street, where a couple seemed to be doing a travel wedding shoot—wearing wedding gown and a huge backpack, snapping photos. Besides the heavy load, it looked really cool.
Our two-week honeymoon trip finally ended at Chongqing airport, holding a thick stack of paired tickets and receipts, a welling sense of happiness.
Two backpacks, one DSLR, two people on the journey.
Travelogue Index
1. Xi’an
2. Day 1
3. Day 2
4. Day 3
5. Lijiang
6. Day 4
7. Day 5
8. Day 6
9. Lugu Lake
10. Day 7
11. Day 8
12. Day 9
13. Shangri-La
14. Day 10
15. Day 11
16. Pudacuo National Park
17. Day 12
18. Chengdu
19. Day 13
20. Day 14
21. Chongqing
22. Day 15
23. Day 16
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