Heading into Spring – March 2019 Road Trip to Embrace Spring. Part 3: Xi'an and Hanzhong

For those from the north, spring resonates deeply. The vast earth shifts from desolate bareness and howling north winds to a time when ice and frost recede, and the spring breeze brings warmth to every household. With the spring equinox, the season's spirit bursts forth. The wind turns from biting to gentle, dry branches sprout tender buds, and flowers stand poised to bloom. As if overnight, a spring breeze makes thousands of pear trees blossom. Traveling now is truly 'the best season of the year, when a thousand miles are filled with orioles singing amid green and red.' On March 20, my wife and I followed spring's footsteps and embarked on a spring outing.

Day 1 (March 20, 2019): Departed from Daxing, Beijing at 6:26, took the G4 Expressway. At 12:06 arrived at Yin Xu ruins (odometer: 495km). 12:40–15:20: Lunch at 'Shengde Li,' then explored Yin Xu. At 15:48, Mashi Manor. At 17:20, checked into Lavande Hotel (543km). At 19:38, dinner at '76 Ren Old-Style Handmade Stewed Noodles.'

Day 2 (March 21, 2019): Departed from Lavande Hotel in Anyang at 6:47, took Nanlin Expressway. 8:17–12:10 at Red Flag Canal Youth Cave scenic area (631km). At 16:59, arrived at Manxin Hotel in Yuncheng (1050km). At 18:33, dinner at 'Longxingmei Noodle House.'

Day 3 (March 22, 2019): Checked out at 7:46. 8:00–8:50 at Colorful Salt Lake (1057km). 9:22–11:00 at Guandi Temple in Xiezhou (1082km). 11:56–12:43 lunch, then Puji Temple in Yongji (1150km). 13:10–14:26 at Guanque Tower (1157km). At 17:25, checked into Xi'an Aegean Sea Hot Spring Hotel (1327km). At 18:45, dinner at 'Lintong Impression.'

Day 4 (March 23, 2019): 8:10–12:08 at Huaqing Palace. 12:50–15:10 at Dayan Pagoda (1396km). At 15:41, checked into Ibis Hotel (1405km). 18:00–21:08 dinner at 'Liuxiang Noodles,' then strolled around Muslim Street.

Day 5 (March 24, 2019): 8:50–11:55 at Xi'an City Wall. At 12:10, lunch at Old Tongguan. At 12:43, set off towards Hanzhong. At 16:30, checked into Hanzhong Binjiang Garden Hotel (1670km). 18:00–21:00 strolled along the Han River and had dinner.

Day 6 (March 25, 2019): 6:22–7:50 walked along the Han River. Checked out at 8:42. 9:19–13:50 drove through Xiema Township, Hongfu Road, Hanshan Summit, Yangchun Town, and Nanzheng Nanhu to enjoy rapeseed flowers (1750km). At 14:00, headed towards Guangyuan. At 15:50, checked into Hilton Garden Inn Guangyuan (1915km). 18:05–20:30 dinner and stroll.

Day 7 (March 26, 2019): Departed at 8:28. 9:16–12:08 visited Zhaohua Ancient Town and had lunch at 'Zhaohua Taste' (1946km). At 17:08, checked into Jinhaitang Hotel in Leshan (2389km). 17:30–21:10 strolled at the confluence of three rivers, Leshan Giant Buddha, dinner at 'Leshan Taste.'

Day 8 (March 27, 2019): 6:50–8:00 riverside walk. Checked out at 8:42 (2406km). 9:41–14:25 at Qianwei Jiayang Small Train (2471km). At 16:40, checked into Ya'an Rain City Impression Hotel (2642km). At 17:05, stroll and dinner at 'Master Pang Fish Restaurant.'

Day 9 (March 28, 2019): Departed at 8:40. 12:42–15:48 at Qionghai National Wetland Park (2943km). 16:04–17:30 at Lushan Mountain. At 18:08, checked into Xichang Meili Shanshui Hotel (2957km). At 19:20, dinner at 'Niu Muke.'

Day 10 (March 29, 2019): Departed at 8:00 towards Lugu Lake (2960km). At 13:45, arrived at Lugu Lake gate in Yanyuan County (3201km). 14:30–15:18 at Grass Sea and Walking Marriage Bridge (3205km). At 16:03, parked at Daluoshui Village (3221km). At 16:20, checked into Mani Dui Hotel. 16:50–20:00 lakeside walk and dinner.

Day 11 (March 30, 2019): At 6:50, lakeside photo-taking. 9:20–15:40 loop around the lake (3299km). 18:30–20:00 stroll and dinner.

Day 12 (March 31, 2019): Played around Daluoshui Village and Lugu Lake.

Day 13 (April 1, 2019): At 9:30, headed towards Lijiang. At 14:00, checked into Shuhe Mozhu Washe Inn (3496km). 14:30–17:30 lunch at 'Small Pot Rice' and toured Shuhe Ancient Town. 18:20–22:00 explored Lijiang Ancient Town and dinner at 'Neighbor Wang.'

Day 14 (April 2, 2019): 6:20–8:40 strolled around Shuhe Ancient Town. At 9:26, set off towards Panzhihua. At 15:48, checked into Panzhihua Zhuxia Hotel (3763km). 18:20–22:00 wander and dinner at 'Yiba Gu.'

Day 15 (April 3, 2019): At 8:50, headed towards Dongchuan Red Land. 15:02–18:10 explored and photographed Dongchuan Red Land (4165km–4205km). At 19:26, checked into Dongchuan Shiji Lijing Hotel (4249km).

Day 16 (April 4, 2019): At 7:50, headed towards Bijie. 12:30–17:40 at Baili Azalea Scenic Area (4689km). At 21:55, checked into Bijie Nanfang Zhuoyue Hotel (4770km).

Day 17 (April 5, 2019): At 9:00, set off towards Longsheng, Guangxi. At 15:49, arrived at Longji Rice Terraces ticket office (5351km). At 17:38, parked at Ping'an Village (5392km). At 18:35, checked into 'Qixing Ban Yue Resort.'

Day 18 (April 6, 2019): 6:30–8:00 photo-taking at Longji Rice Terraces. At 9:40, departed for Zixing Dongjiang Lake, Chenzhou, Hunan. At 15:10, checked into Zixing Dongjiang Lake Qishi Hotel (5856km). 16:00–19:00 walk and dinner featuring 'Qiaozui Fish.'

Day 19 (April 7, 2019): 7:20–11:30 toured Dongjiang Lake. At 12:10, headed to Yingtan, Jiangxi. At 18:45, checked into Yingtan Fandan Bailu Hotel (6451km).

Day 20 (April 8, 2019): At 7:00, headed to Jiande, Zhejiang. At 11:00, arrived at Jiande Seven-Li Sailing Scenic Area parking lot (6785km). 11:40–13:35 strolled along Fuchun River and had lunch at Kaiyuan Fangcaodi Village Hotel. At 14:30, checked into Tonglu Daman Hotel (6841km). 18:00–21:40 exploration of Tonglu county.

Day 21 (April 9, 2019): 6:30–8:00 visited Fuchun River. 9:50–11:30 at Daqishan National Forest Park. 18:20–21:10 strolled around Tonglu county and dinner.

Day 22 (April 10, 2019): 9:50–15:00 visited Fuchun River bank, Tianmu Creek, Fenghuang Mountain, Tongjun Cable Bridge, Binjiang Park; lunch at 'Mother-in-law.' 19:00–20:40 Tonglu stroll and dinner.

Day 23 (April 11, 2019): At 9:00, headed to Nanjing (6885km). At 12:02, lunch at 'Dushunxing Zhenjiang Pot Cover Noodles' in Yixing. At 14:08, checked into Juzi Shuijing Hotel Yixianqiao Branch in Nanjing (7247km). (Had a blood test in Nanjing and would see the doctor two days later.)

Day 24 (April 12, 2019): At 8:45, headed to Xinghua. 11:06–13:50 at Xinghua Qianduo Scenic Area (7466km). At 16:50, checked into Suzhou Geya Hotel (7696km). 17:30–21:20 at Jinji Lake and dinner.

Day 25 (April 13, 2019): 9:40–13:45 at Jinji Lake. At 14:20, checked into Lefu Quan Suite Hotel. 17:40–21:30 at Pingjiang Road, dinner at 'Dingshengxian.'

Day 26 (April 14, 2019): At 8:50, headed to Tianmu Lake. 10:59–13:30 at Tianmu Lake Shanshui Park and lunch (7876km). At 14:45, checked into Nanshan Zhuhai Inn (7921km). 16:20–19:30 at Tianmu Lake Yushui Hot Spring.

Day 27 (April 15, 2019): At 9:17, returned to Nanjing. At 12:30, arrived at Nanjing Zhongshan Hotel (8056km). (Picked up test results and saw the doctor at Nanjing General Hospital.) At 15:15, headed to Xuzhou. At 18:50, checked into Xuzhou Pengcheng Hotel (8394km).

Day 28 (April 16, 2019): At 5:40, departed for Beijing. At 12:46, arrived at home in Daxing, Beijing (9076km).

Beijing – Henan – Anyang – Red Flag Canal – Shanxi – Yuncheng – Yongji – Shaanxi – Xi'an – Hanzhong – Sichuan – Guangyuan – Leshan – Qianwei – Ya'an – Xichang – Lugu Lake – Yunnan – Lijiang – Sichuan – Panzhihua – Yunnan – Dongchuan – Guizhou – Bijie – Guangxi – Longsheng – Hunan – Zixing – Jiangxi – Yingtan – Zhejiang – Tonglu – Jiangsu – Nanjing – Xinghua – Suzhou – Liyang – Nanjing – Xuzhou – Beijing.

Crossing the Yellow River Bridge at Fenglingdu brought us into Shaanxi. That night we checked into the Aegean Sea Hot Spring Hotel near Huaqing Palace.

The hotel's setting was elegant, but the Huaqingyuan area we stayed in was rather ordinary.

We had dinner at a place called 'Lintong Impression,' about two or three kilometers from the hotel. The business was booming, the ambiance just so-so, and what I found most unacceptable was the number of people smoking. The food, however, was genuinely delicious – Grandma's fried dough cakes were the best I've ever tasted.

The next morning, I went to wash the car while my wife visited Huaqing Palace (I had been there before).

At noon we arrived at Dayan Pagoda.

Dayan Pagoda is located within the Da Ci'en Temple in Xi'an. It was built under the supervision of Xuanzang to preserve the Buddhist scriptures and statues he brought back from Tianzhu (India) via the Silk Road to Chang'an. Construction began in the third year of the Yongwei era of the Tang Dynasty (652 AD), originally five stories, later extended to nine, and finally fixed at the seven-story structure we see today. Unlike Famen Temple in Baoji, where the temple was built for a pagoda, Dayan Pagoda was built for the temple.

Da Ci'en Temple was the most famous and magnificent Buddhist temple in Chang'an during the Tang Dynasty. Xuanzang once presided over temple affairs here, managed the translation of Buddhist scriptures, and founded the Weishi (Consciousness-Only) school, one of the eight major schools of Chinese Buddhism, making it the ancestral home of that school. Thus, Da Ci'en Temple holds a very prominent place in the history of Chinese Buddhism.

The current Da Ci'en Temple was rebuilt in the second year of the Chenghua era of the Ming Dynasty (1466) on the site of the West Pagoda Courtyard of the Tang-era temple, now only a fraction of the original, far from its former splendor.

Dayan Pagoda introduced the ancient Indian Buddhist architectural form of the stupa to China as Buddhism spread, and it remains a landmark of Tang-dynasty Chang'an. Over time, people have gradually forgotten the name Da Ci'en Temple and replaced it with Dayan Pagoda.

As a witness of the ancient Silk Road, its cultural relics and heritage are priceless.

Apart from the statue of Sakyamuni, the Buddha's relics, the footprint stele of the Tathagata, and the lotus-patterned caisson ceiling on the top floor, the most noteworthy items are the palm-leaf scriptures written on pattra leaves from ancient India. According to accounts, all 657 scriptures Xuanzang retrieved along the ancient Silk Road were palm-leaf manuscripts. On the fourth floor, two palm leaves about 40 cm long and 7 cm wide are enshrined, densely inscribed with Sanskrit. It is said that fewer than ten scholars worldwide can read this script today, making them extremely rare.

Moreover, for centuries, scholars and poets who climbed Dayan Pagoda have composed verses expressing their emotions, leaving countless masterpieces and forming the 'Pagoda Poetry Gatherings,' a glorious chapter in cultural history. For instance, the Tang poet Cen Shen wrote 'Climbing the Ci'en Temple Pagoda with Gao Shi and Xue Ju': 'The pagoda rises as if surging from the earth, solitary and tall, towering into the celestial palace. Ascending feels beyond the world, steps winding through the void...' These well-loved lines have been recited through the ages.

Xi'an's nights are both lively and leisurely, blending the flavor of an ancient city with a modern vibe. The Bell and Drum Towers are elegantly refurbished, and the old city walls glow brightly. Though past prosperity has faded, the Chang'an of dreams still lingers.

The liveliest spot is the Muslim Street, a must-visit for tourists in Xi'an. It's said locals avoid it, thinking the food is not authentic and overpriced – much like Beijingers shunning Wangfujing or Shanghainese avoiding Nanjing Road. It has become a landmark. Visitors don't really care what they eat or spending a bit more; it's more about the experience and sightseeing. To taste authentic Xi'an cuisine, it's best to have a local lead you to some unassuming spots.

The street is indeed full of delicious food, but none tempted me today – I just wanted a bowl of noodles.

Liuxiang Noodles is tucked in a small alley. They serve only one type of noodle, in small or large bowls, with options to add meat or vegetables, and maybe one or two side dishes. After ordering and paying, you get a bowl of noodle soup first. When the noodles arrive, you add the toppings and sauces. The noodles are chewy, the meat and veggies richly flavored. Not refined, but hearty and substantial, with noodles, vegetables, meat, and soup all in one; generous and affordable. No wonder the place is packed.

In the morning, we came to the foot of the city wall.

Xi'an's city wall is a Ming-dynasty structure, relatively well-preserved, with tall walls and majestic gate towers.

The area outside the wall has been turned into a leisure park, with a moat encircling the wall. Beneath the towering gate towers, green willows are just turning yellow, flowers are about to bloom – everywhere, signs of early spring.

Sculptures and small sights dot the area; locals exercise, relax, admire flowers, and enjoy themselves, full of zest.

Zhuque Gate was originally the main south gate of the Tang imperial city of Chang'an, below it runs Zhuque Avenue, the city's central axis.

Inside the wall, the layout of the old city largely remains, and the wall itself looks as it did in bygone times. The weathered bricks, the efflorescence on the lime mortar, stand up to rain and wind like frontier guards, silently holding their posts.

Yongning Gate is the oldest and longest-used city gate in Xi'an, built in the early Sui Dynasty (582 AD). It is also the most completely and beautifully restored gate among all the ones on the wall today. There is now a subway passage leading to it, and you can also climb the wall here.

The existing Xi'an city wall was likely built during the Hongwu reign of the Ming Dynasty and has been repaired continuously since then to reach its present state. The top of the wall is wide enough for two trucks to drive side by side. Strolling along the wall is like standing on a dividing line between eras. The battlements before us, the gate towers, arrow towers, watchtowers, and corner towers in the distance all exude an ancient, oriental beauty. They seem to whisper tales of past splendor and change, transporting us to an era of crossbows, armor, and horseback archery. Outside the wall, the towering modern buildings, speeding cars, and fashionable crowds clearly tell us that we are now in a whole new age. Faced with the new and the old, preservation and demolition, protection and development, the appearance of Xi'an's city wall offers a kind of answer.

The Xi'an–Hanzhong Expressway (Xihan Expressway) is part of the G5, cutting through the Qinling Mountains, composed almost entirely of tunnels and bridges. Though the scenery on both sides is picturesque, we had no time to enjoy it and dared not be the least bit careless. I remember last time, we ran into an accident and were stuck for two hours. This time, luckily, the road was clear, and we reached Hanzhong by 4 p.m.

Hanzhong is named after the Han River. Located at the southern foot of the Qinling Mountains, at the junction of Shaanxi, Gansu, and Sichuan, it has borne the name since 451 BC when the State of Chu established Hanzhong Commandery on the middle reaches of the Han River.

Hanzhong has a long history, is beautiful and fertile, and is picturesque. Historically, the first region called 'Land of Abundance' referred exactly to this area. Zhuge Liang's 'Longzhong Plan' states: 'Yizhou is a strategic stronghold, with thousands of li of fertile land, a heavenly treasury; it was on this basis that the Han ancestor founded his empire.' In the Han Dynasty, Yizhou included today's Sichuan Basin and the Hanzhong Basin. Moreover, Hanzhong has been acclaimed as the 'Little Jiangnan of the Northwest' and 'the most beautiful rapeseed flower sea in China.'

In 2007, the National Tourism Administration awarded Hanzhong the title of 'China Excellent Tourism City.' CCTV's award citation for China's Best Historic Cultural City described Hanzhong as: 'Located at the geographical center of China's map, Hanzhong has gone through the Qin, Han, Tang, and Song dynasties, rebuilt three times and relocated twice, yet has always been a place where hidden dragons and crouching tigers reside. Every brick and stone here records the vicissitudes of history, and every detail testifies to the nation's calm confidence.'

On the riverbank in the riverside park, there is a stone tablet inscribed with words by the renowned scholar Yu Qiuyu: 'I am Han Chinese, I speak Chinese, I write Chinese characters, all because we once had a great dynasty – the Han Dynasty. And the Han Dynasty had a key city: Hanzhong. The world has seen brilliant dynasties: the Roman Empire, the Maurya Empire, and our Qin and Han dynasties. These are the pride of all humanity. We cannot forget that great era. By coming to Hanzhong, I seek to reclaim that magnificent memory. After arriving, my greatest impression is that the landscapes here have all become history, and that history has become our whole nation's story. So, not visiting a place like Hanzhong would be a tremendous pity. Therefore, I suggest that all Chinese people consider Hanzhong their ancestral home, and treat every visit here as a homecoming.'

According to Mr. Yu, this is my second time coming home.

The first thing when coming home is to visit Mom. Who's Mom? The Han River, of course. The Han River is the largest tributary of the Yangtze and the unquestioned mother river of Hanzhong. From another perspective, the Han River also feeds the South-to-North Water Transfer Project; the water I drink now might have flowed from here. So it makes perfect sense to call it Mother. I'm grateful for her nurturing, her care, and her selflessness.

The section of the mother river flowing through Hanzhong's urban area is wide and gentle, the water crystal clear. Lush willows line the banks, buildings cluster by the shore, distant mountains loom softly, and bridges arch like rainbows.

As the sun sets, its tail dips into the water, painting a colorful ribbon. Distant mountains, nearby waters, all turned golden.

When night falls, the city's neon lights glimmer, and the river shimmers with reflections. Every night at 8 p.m., there's a stunning musical fountain show on the river, but this time we missed it because of dinner.

In the early morning, the riverbank is quiet, with few people, winding paths, and branches heavy with blossoms.

Strolling along the river is a delight – listening to birds chirping, smelling the fragrance of flowers, appreciating the scenery on both banks, and watching clouds drift over the water. It truly is a livable place, with fine climate, environment, and views.

Hanzhong is acclaimed for having 'China's most beautiful rapeseed flower sea.' Every March, it holds a rapeseed flower festival; this year's festival started on March 15. Hanzhong's rapeseed flowers are not as dramatic as those in Luoping, which use mountains to create vast, varied landscapes, nor as expansive as those in Menyuan that surge endlessly with the terrain. Instead, they are mostly divided into patches by villages and farmhouses, like a series of vignettes. However, the overall area is vast, and you can find flower-viewing spots along any roadside or at any village entrance.

Our flower-viewing route: Xiema Township – Xiemadian Village – Yuhuquan Manor – Hongfu Road – Hanshan Summit – Hanshan Square – Dashuihe – Yangchun Town.

Mountain shadows, houses, flower fields, grazing cattle – everything so simple, yet so harmonious.

Driving along the mountain road, we came to a hillside and were attracted by the bright flowers. We stopped the car and climbed up. There, a small resort yard was nestling among a riot of colors.

The yard is called 'Yuhuquan Resort,' but I think 'Flower Sea Yard' would be more fitting. Just look – the front, back, even the roof are surrounded by flowers.

Staying a couple of days in such a yard, is this the rhythm of becoming an immortal?

Looking down from here, it's a multi-colored beauty, like an overturned palette; and also a three-dimensional beauty, with houses and footpaths twisting at the foot of the mountain, and green trees and terraced fields layered up the slopes.

Halfway up, the villages and city became clearer and more beautiful. The water surfaces gleamed blue, scattered like stars; the flower fields blazed yellow, dotted here and there. Roads crisscrossed, buildings rose and fell at different heights. Here stands a Lucky Stone. I wish Hanzhong good luck, and good luck to everyone in the world! Luck is bestowed by heaven, but also earned through effort. Good people have good luck; good mountains and good waters bring good fortune.

The rapeseed fields around Yangchun Town are more expansive, and even prettier set against the mountain shadows and farmhouses. In fact, rapeseed flowers are everywhere in Hanzhong. As long as you avoid the crowds, beauty is all around.