Dreaming Back to Chang'an: Xi'an, the Thousand-Year-Old Capital Every Chinese Should Visit
Xi'an: Since the high-speed train from Chengdu to Xi'an started running, I've visited this city often. I'd long heard that Xi'an's Spring Festival atmosphere is especially vibrant. After missing it for two years, I finally made it this year. Now I'd like to share my Xi'an trip—what places are worth visiting and the delicious food to try. This is for everyone heading to Xi'an or already there.
My Itinerary (Recommended)
Jan 17: Chengdu – Xi'an. In the evening, visit Yongning Gate City Wall and see the city wall lantern show.
Jan 18: Banpo Museum – Terracotta Warriors – Qin Terracotta Show – Terracotta Warriors Qin Academy – Huaqing Palace
Jan 19: Hancheng Lake – Yongxingfang – Bell and Drum Towers – Tang Paradise – Grand Tang Dynasty Ever-Bright City
Jan 20: Xi'an – Chengdu
Food Recommendations:
1. Da Qin Xiao Yan (near the Terracotta Warriors)
2. Yongxingfang (taste Shaanxi snacks, Wei Zheng's Banquet)
3. Zui Chang'an (Xi’an’s famous internet-famous restaurant)
Accommodation Recommendations:
1. Ramada Plaza Hotel
2. Zhanbai Art Hotel
(P.S.: For Chengdu ↔ Xi'an, I highly recommend taking the high-speed train, round trip around 500 RMB.)
First Stop: Yongning Gate & City Wall Lantern Show
Before the Wuhan pneumonia outbreak this year, I caught the lighting ceremony for Xi'an's City Wall Lantern Show. Xi'an truly combines the ancient and the modern perfectly.
Xi'an's city wall, to be precise, is the well-preserved Ming Dynasty city wall. If you can only visit one site in Xi'an, don't miss the city wall. The main gates are four: Changle Gate (East Gate), Yongning Gate (South Gate), Anding Gate (West Gate), and Anyuan Gate (North Gate). These are the original gates of the ancient wall. Since the Republican era, many new gates have been added for convenience, bringing the total to 18 gates today.
Yongning Gate, the main south gate, is located slightly west of the center of the south wall. It was originally the "Anshang Gate" on the south side of the Sui-Tang Chang'an imperial city, preserved when Han Jian rebuilt the new city at the end of the Tang Dynasty. During the Hongwu reign of the Ming Dynasty (1374–1378), when Xi'an prefectural city was expanded, this gate became the south gate and was renamed "Yongning Gate," though the original three gateways were replaced with a single brick archway. It has remained through the Qing Dynasty, the Republic, to today. In June 1912, Shaanxi Governor Zhang Fenghui inscribed the lintel of Yongning Gate.
As night falls and lanterns light up, it's like traveling back to the glorious Tang Dynasty.
Especially the lanterns hanging on the trees—so immersive.
Second Stop: Banpo Museum
This is an old museum that opened in 1958. Built right over the excavated Banpo site, it displays pottery, daily utensils, and more, recreating the life of our ancestors over 6,000 years ago. The Banpo site is the largest and best-preserved matriarchal clan village site in the Yellow River basin, and it's the first museum of a prehistoric settlement in New China.
Transport: Bus: 105, 269, 406, 416, get off at Banpo Museum stop.
Admission: Regular ticket: 65 RMB (Jan 1–Dec 31, Mon–Sun). Half-price: minors 6–18, full-time university students (undergrad and below) with valid ID. Free: children 6 or under/height under 1.2m, active military, retired military, disabled, seniors 65+ with valid ID; group visits by primary, secondary, or college students with school letter reserved 1 day in advance.
Opening hours: 08:00–17:30 (Mar 1–Nov 30); 08:00–17:00 (Dec 1–end of Feb).
Staff gave a live demonstration of "rubbing wood to make fire." One of the biggest differences between humans and animals is our ability to use fire.
Food Recommendation: Da Qin Xiao Yan
Address: 15 Fenghuang Ave. Hours: 10:00–21:00. If you're visiting the Terracotta Warriors, Huaqing Pool, or Mount Li, don't miss this place. It's a Qin-themed restaurant with a ceremonial atmosphere. Staff serve dishes dressed in Qin Dynasty attire, and guests can try on the clothes for photos—great fun. The food is good, and while you eat, there's a live bell chime performance. Dishes are served in individual small plates, similar to Japanese cuisine—but actually, Japan's dining culture came from China. During the Qin era, China had individual servings; communal dining came later.
Qin Dynasty chimes, and you can dress in Qin attire for photos—a great experience!
Third Stop: Emperor Qin Shi Huang's Terracotta Warriors Museum
As a Chengdu native, I've been to Xi'an countless times. The first time, my top destination was the Terracotta Warriors. Even though it's been over 2,000 years, you can still sense the First Emperor's grandeur. They say these warriors were brightly painted when first unearthed—imagine what it must have felt like seeing them then. But with current technology, the colors fade instantly upon excavation.
Transport: Bus: Tourist 5 (306), 914, 915 to the Terracotta Warriors Museum stop.
Admission: 120 RMB (year-round). Free: seniors 65+ with ID, disabled, active Chinese military (including armed police), military academy students, retired Red Army veterans, disabled veterans with valid ID, minors under 16, students. Tip: tickets are real-name and per person, so book in advance and carry ID.
Opening hours: 08:30–18:00, ticket sales stop at 17:00 (Mar 16–Nov 15); 08:30–17:30, ticket sales stop at 16:30 (Nov 16–Mar 15).
Fourth Stop: Terracotta Warriors Qin Academy
Make your own terracotta warrior to take home.
Fifth Stop: Qin Terracotta Show
After witnessing the three excavation pits at the Terracotta Warriors Museum, I watched a grand epic stage show "The Qin Terracotta Show" at the Qin Emperor Grand Theater at 5:30 p.m. It was shockingly impressive!
Interact with "living" terracotta warriors.
Sixth Stop: Huaqing Palace & Tang Palace Lantern Show
Huaqing Pool is one of Xi'an's most important sights, a Tang Dynasty imperial palace. It's famous for the story of Yang Guifei and Emperor Xuanzong. The renowned performance "The Everlasting Regret" is staged here, retelling Yang's tale.
The night lighting pairs perfectly with Huaqing Palace's architecture.
Promising a grand and magnificent Tang scene: over 2,000 starry lights, a mountain moon screen, lakeside lights, pavilion lighting effects, and laser tunnels create a massive three-dimensional landscape that brings the prosperity of the Tang Dynasty to life. The giant projection on Mount Li can even display messages you wish to convey.
Suddenly turning back, that person is amidst the fading lantern light. In this glorious Tang palace, holding hands with your beloved, thousands of lanterns drift before your eyes, like fireworks and silver flowers, as if in a fairyland. The majestic, delicate, or adorable lanterns match the New Year spirit, and with you by my side, it's especially romantic.
Admire lanterns, solve lantern riddles, set off fireworks, watch dragon and lion dances—joyful celebrations everywhere, timeless and eternal. The city is ablaze with lights, the streets teem with people. Amid countless crowds, across endless years, in the boundless wilderness of time, not a step early, not a step late, you just happen to meet the one you are meant to meet.
Seventh Stop: Hancheng Lake
Located in the northwest corner of Xi'an, Hancheng Lake is set around the 36-square-kilometer Han Chang'an City ruins. Here you can wear Han attire to experience authentic Han culture and climb high to gaze over Xi'an. The scenic area offers three routes: water, electric cart, and walking.
Transport: Bus: 717 to "Guojiacun" stop, walk 3 min; or Second Ring Route 1, 302, 316 to "Fenghui Road" stop, walk 5 min.
Admission: Free. Hours: 08:30–19:00 (year-round).
Dafeng Pavilion: "A great wind rises, clouds fly; I’ve conquered the world, now I return home. Where can I find brave warriors to guard the four corners?" This well-known "Song of the Great Wind" reminds us that the Han people originated from this sacred land.
Eighth Stop: Yongxingfang
If you want to taste all of Shaanxi's delicacies in one day, Yongxingfang is the only place in Xi'an that can make it happen. Originally the mansion of Wei Zheng in the Tang Dynasty, it's now a food and culture street preserving authentic Tang architecture, letting you experience the Tang era in a day.
Yongxingfang brings together over 50 eateries from across Shaanxi, featuring provincial and municipal intangible cultural heritage foods, folk handicraft performances, and famous local snacks.
Visitors can feel the atmosphere of "108 Tang City Blocks" and enjoy genuine Shaanxi folk snacks.
#Bowl-breaking Wine# I first heard about Yongxingfang because of this. Finally, I could experience it myself.
#Zichang Pancakes# Provincial intangible cultural heritage, dating back to 1370. Made from buckwheat flour. Shredded potato pancake 6 RMB/serving; dried tofu pancake 6 RMB; lamb noodle soup 18 RMB.
Guanzhong Tower: "Wei Zheng's Banquet" At Yongxingfang stands a tall building, Guanzhong Tower, with a square in front containing a miniature Chang'an city covered in glass, with 108 ancient blocks. People live above it today, so it's called "108 Blocks Square." The tower's most famous feature is Wei Zheng's Banquet, where every dish has a story.
Ninth Stop: Bell and Drum Towers
The Bell and Drum Towers are two iconic Ming Dynasty structures in downtown Xi'an, facing each other magnificently. The Bell Tower, a traditional Chinese building of the Ming era, was built in 1384 (17th year of Hongwu) originally at Guangji Street on West Avenue, moved to its current site in 1582. A large bell once hung there for time-keeping, hence the name.
Xi'an's Drum Tower is the largest in China. Located at the south end of Beiyuan Gate on West Avenue, east of the Bell Tower, it was built in 1380 (13th year of Hongwu), four years before the Bell Tower, and rebuilt during Kangxi and Qianlong eras. A giant drum announced the time at dusk. The two towers are twin siblings, only half a li apart, enhancing the ancient city. The drum tower's base is 738.55 sqm larger than the bell tower's, and its height is 34 meters, equally majestic.
Food Recommendation: Zui Chang'an
If you can only eat at one place in Xi'an, Zui Chang'an is unmissable. I've been to Xi'an many times and eaten here three times, twice at the Bell Tower flagship because it's close to the Bell and Drum Towers, within walking distance. Their dishes are creative, refining Shaanxi cuisine to be both beautiful and delicious—every dish is internet-famous. Recommended: Squirrel-shaped fish, "Miaobi Shenghua" (writing-brush pastry), Old Shaanxi calabash chicken, osmanthus wine, golden pot stickers, "maobi su" (brush-shaped puff), mini roujiamo, honey rice cake, air-dried tripe.
Ninth Stop: Tang Paradise – "Dream Back to Tang"
One of Xi'an's three must-see shows, with unique storytelling.
"Dream Back to Tang" runs 70 minutes over six acts: Prologue: "Garden Dream," Act I: "Dreamy Rainbow Dress," Act II: "Dream Invitation to the Qin Emperor," Act III: "Dream Bath at Huaqing," Act IV: "Dream Journey to the Western Regions," Act V: "Dream Tour of Qujiang," Act VI: "Dream Back to Tang."
Act I "Dreamy Rainbow Dress": Dance with the imperial concubine, celestial music rises, and Dunhuang flying apsaras ascend from the murals with the music and lights. The peerless concubine in a rainbow feather gown dances lightly like a divine bird, unfolding a splendid Rainbow Dress Dance.
Act II "Dream Invitation to the Qin Emperor": The Tang army's might, awe-inspiring, with fluttering banners and imposing shield formations. Emperor Xuanzong beats the war drum on the general's platform, shields shift into various arrays, swords and halberds gleaming—overwhelming power.
Act III "Dream Bath at Huaqing": Like a lotus emerging from water, breathtakingly beautiful. The concubine dances alone in the bath, pure and graceful; the emperor arrives, and they perform a tender, pure duet, a timeless love story.
Act IV "Dream Journey to the Western Regions": The empire's embrace of all cultures: passionate Hu Xuan dance, agile Jie drum dance, bold Hu Teng double-sword dance, whimsical Qiang flute and Huqin duet leading to a magical Indian snake dance, as nations pay tribute.
Act V "Dream Tour of Qujiang": Universal jubilation, peaceful days. Spring breezes, the Qujiang River reflects the Wild Goose Pagoda, street martial arts thrill, variety acts amuse, big-headed dolls charm, young girls' hearts flutter, sword calligraphy flows wildly, and cuju is played.
Act VI "Dream Back to Tang": The grand Tang ceremony, praying for the people. The resplendent hall, the dignified ceremony: the emperor and consort seated on the dragon throne lead officials in worshipping heaven and earth, blessing all. Court ladies in Tang finery ascend slowly.
Tenth Stop: Grand Tang Dynasty Ever-Bright City & the "Tumbler Lady"
The Ever-Bright City is now one of the hottest spots in Xi'an, driving the city's internet celebrity culture. The recently viral "Tumbler Lady" performs here.
The city, anchored by the Giant Wild Goose Pagoda, spans from Xuanzang Square north to Tang City Wall Relics Park south, from Ci'en East Road east to Ci'en West Road west, linking three themed squares (Xuanzang, Zhenguan Culture, Kaiyuan Celebration) and six Tang-style blocks, plus four major cultural venues (Xi'an Concert Hall, Xi'an Grand Theatre, Qujiang Film City, Shaanxi Artists Gallery).
Every day, fans flood the area for a glimpse of the Tumbler Lady, hoping to touch her hand, surrounding the performance so tightly you can barely pass. They queue for two hours just for her. But she is truly beautiful—worth the wait!
At night, the Ever-Bright City is packed, as if we've returned to the flourishing Tang.
Hotel Recommendation: Xi'an Zhanbai Art Hotel
I heard about this artsy boutique hotel last year. It's right near the Giant Wild Goose Pagoda; some rooms even offer a view of it. The decor is very artistic, and it's great value. A friend recommended it before, and I finally stayed this time—highly recommended.
The corridors are lined with artists' paintings, which you can buy if you like.
The rooms are spacious, especially the family rooms with a double bed and a small bed—perfect for those with kids.
