A Trip to Xi'an

This trip was completely unexpected, with no preparation at all. Due to the pandemic, I hadn't planned on traveling. But then the pandemic also led to my company giving us a sudden two-week holiday. I had originally planned to take my younger daughter on a trip this year as her kindergarten graduation trip, but because of the pandemic, that plan was basically scrapped. The surprise came when the children's father had a business trip to Xi'an, so we seized the moment—a perfect combination of timing and circumstances—for an impromptu journey. We just wanted to leave and go somewhere.

I only hastily skimmed a few travel guides online that I thought were good, taking some ideas for our itinerary.

We traveled from Guangdong to Xi'an. Our route was from Guangzhou Baiyun Airport to Xianyang. Because of the pandemic, airfares were much cheaper than usual. We chose a flight around 11 a.m. At that time, it cost just over 400 yuan per adult and the same for the child—totaling just over 800 yuan. If we had taken the high-speed train from Guangzhou to Xi'an, tickets would have been over 800 yuan and the journey much longer. So this trip actually reduced our travel costs.

Since we were tagging along on the children's father's business trip, someone picked us up and took us near his company. I checked and found there was a subway line directly into downtown Xi'an, which was very convenient. That evening at the hotel, I quickly reviewed the guide and planned an itinerary that would suit me alone with a child (just over 5 years old). So I made the following plan (though in the end I realized: plans never keep pace with changes—exhaustion, heat, pandemic restrictions all made our actual route differ):

Day 1: Huimin Street → Shuyuanmen → Ancient City Wall → Bell and Drum Towers at night

Day 2: Shaanxi History Museum → Small Wild Goose Pagoda → Giant Wild Goose Pagoda → Music Fountain

Day 3: Terracotta Warriors → Huaqing Pool → The Song of Everlasting Sorrow

We took the subway from where we were staying to Yongning Gate. As we stepped out of the exit, we immediately saw the Ancient City Wall. I thought about renting bikes for us to ride, but when we inquired, we were told that due to the pandemic, you had to make a reservation to go up onto the wall. We spent some time trying to sort it out, only to find that the day's slots were fully booked. We could only reserve for the next day, so we had to change plans (see, we had barely started and already had to change). At that moment, I also noticed that a visit to Tang Paradise required a reservation, so I quickly booked that too.

Since we couldn't visit the Ancient City Wall, we started strolling from the nearest spot by the subway exit. Following directions, I walked with my child and eventually ended up at Shuyuanmen. It was still relatively early, and we saw a newlywed couple taking wedding photos in front of the gate (during these days of travel, we often saw couples taking wedding photos).

Perhaps because it was still early morning, the street wasn't crowded; or maybe the pandemic kept people from going out much. This quietness was actually nice, as I prefer walking around without crowds. The street was lined with calligraphy, antique, and cultural shops—not particularly attractive for my child and me—but the buildings had a historic charm, and I gave her a little tour to learn about them. Ancient architecture exudes a deep cultural atmosphere. My little one noticed that the two lions at the entrance were different and insisted on taking a photo herself. I explained to her: the male lion has a ball under its paw, while the female lion has a cub under hers.

As we walked, we got hungry and couldn't wait to track down all the famous food spots recommended online. So I randomly bought a roujiamo (Chinese hamburger) from a stall on this street. I think it was stewed meat, though it's been so long I've forgotten. When you're hungry, it tastes delicious—so much meat, a satisfying meal. (Looking back, I realized that online recommendations aren't necessarily the best; a person visiting can't possibly have the time or stomach to try all the food. So it doesn't really matter if it's from that famous shop; what counts is the feeling while you eat.) Whose roujiamo was it? Who knows.

We had no set destination, just walking and looking around. When we got tired, we took the subway to the Bell and Drum Towers, intending to visit them and then stroll down Huimin Street. But! Upon arrival, we were told we needed a reservation to get in (the reservation could be made through a public WeChat account, but I thought it wasn't necessary to go up; the night view would be more beautiful anyway, so I didn't plan on going later in the trip). Take a photo - that classic 'been here' feeling.

The Bell and Drum Towers are very close to each other, and before we knew it, we had wandered into Huimin Street. Strolling down Huimin Street was my child's favorite—food everywhere, toys to look at—it truly met her expectations. The small alley on the left side of Huimin Street sold trinkets at cheaper prices and better value, while the main street outside was much pricier. So finding the right spot saves money! I especially loved the bookmarks there—I wanted every single one, I just couldn't put them down... And there were fun little toys, and beautiful Hanfu (traditional clothing). Though I was tempted to buy one, I don't trust my own sense of fashion, so in the end, I just looked.

In the evening, we had reserved tickets for Tang Paradise (during the pandemic, all attractions were free but required advance reservations—it saved us a lot of money, though my guide can't serve as a budget reference). So we took a DiDi to the area and randomly found a restaurant that looked appealing. I ordered yangrou paomo (lamb soup with bread). It felt quite oily, and towards the end, it became even greasier... but the pickled garlic was delicious! I really loved that sweet-and-sour garlic, very memorable.

After eating, we went to explore Tang Paradise at night. The main reason I had this on my list was because the guide mentioned you could feed pigeons there, and I had promised my child we would feed them (her older sister had gone to Lijiang for her kindergarten graduation trip and fed seagulls, and she kept telling her little sister about it—so the little one really wanted to). But we arrived too late; the pigeons had already gone home to sleep. (She was so disappointed, and I promised we'd find another chance the next day.) Since we'd been walking all day—the weather neither hot nor cold but a bit sunny—my child tired easily. To conserve energy for the following days, I opted to take the sightseeing tram around the park (one ticket for a loop; you can get off at any stop, then get back on with the ticket, but only one full loop). The night view at Tang Paradise was beautiful, and there were performances. It's probably more suited for couples in love or people who enjoy natural scenery.

Tang Paradise at night.

It was quite late by the time we finished, and I walked with my little one to find a place to stay. I felt Xi'an didn't have as many quaint inns as Lijiang, so I just picked a cheap place—a converted apartment—nothing special, just for one night. Along the road, I spotted a Fandeng Reading bookstore; it was already late, or else I would have loved to check it out. During my days in Xi'an, I saw several Fandeng branches and others, which gave me a strong sense that the city values education. The first day was tiring for my child, but she had good food, while I enjoyed observing the different culture and scenery. It felt wonderful.

I had pre-booked the morning slot for the Shaanxi History Museum (also free admission). Following online advice, I rented an audio guide, but later I realized it wasn't necessary because your phone can provide video guides that clearly show which items are being described. The Shaanxi History Museum is like a corridor through history, taking you from the very beginnings to modern civilization. If you go with the mindset that these are just bits of old metal and ancient statues, you'll be done quickly. But if you go with an intention to feel the current of history and culture, you'll be deeply awed by the achievements of each era and gain a rough understanding of China's development. Even my little one was so impressed by the museum that it became one of the highlights she shared when we got home. I'll mention a few artifacts with stories that my child especially liked:

After the museum, to fulfill my child's wish to feed pigeons, I took her back to Tang Paradise. When we first arrived, there were still no pigeons in sight. I asked a sanitation worker who said they were up in the pavilion and that you'd have to lure them down with food. We tried for a long time without success. By noon, the sun was getting hot, we were tired, so we rested in a shady spot. Suddenly, delight—the pigeons came down! She joyfully took out a bun we'd bought that morning and tore it into little pieces, tossing them to the pigeons. There weren't many, but her wish was granted.

After feeding the pigeons and resting, we headed to Yongxingfang for a delicious lunch. We planned to visit the Ancient City Wall later in the afternoon to see it at sunset. I found that Yongxingfang had a lot of tasty treats, not expensive, very clean, and a great place with a concentration of food stalls in a pleasant setting. The famous 'Smash-the-Bowl Wine' – due to the pandemic, fewer people came, but there were still some who boldly drank and smashed bowls. Food and scenes at Yongxingfang.

We happily ate many snacks, and when it was about time, we set off for the Ancient City Wall. I had imagined the wall full of scenes—ancient generals patrolling with their troops, safeguarding the peace, or grand ceremonies welcoming kings and nobles. My imagination made me very eager. We walked from Yongxingfang to the nearest gate, Changle Gate (we asked for directions; along the way there were many street vendors selling antiques—I don't know much about them, we just passed by). Trying her best to carry Mom's heavy backpack.

The beauty of the Ancient City Wall is a gift from history. Standing atop it, looking out at the scenery beyond, you can imagine how the generals of old defended this land. Walking along, you can almost hear the footsteps of ancient soldiers patrolling day and night. At sunset, there's a feeling of grandeur and age, something you can only truly feel by being there. I wished I could stay forever, standing there until the end of time. Reality pulled me back: my child was hungry, she found it boring. Because she's too young, she didn't meet the age requirement to ride a bike around the wall, which was a pity. But a little regret gives us a reason to return, right?

We randomly found a staircase down from the wall. By now it was evening, and the children's father had finished work and was free to join us. We arranged to meet at the Giant Wild Goose Pagoda to see the music fountain. Xi'an's subway is very convenient; it's easy to get pretty much anywhere. Xi'an at night.

I found the area around the Giant Wild Goose Pagoda very bustling. Right outside the subway exit was the fountain (at the North Square of the Giant Wild Goose Pagoda). It was quite late, so we caught the 9 p.m. show (there are two evening shows at 7 and 9; I'm not sure about daytime shows as I didn't see any). Watching the fountain with a child is great fun—the leaping water jets are like dancing little elves. She loved it—a feast of music, visuals, and imagination.

After enjoying the fountain, we had liangpi (cold noodles) at a nearby food street. My husband remarked how few people there were now compared to before—in the past, the nightlife would just be starting at such a late hour, with crowds out for a late snack. I think each has its appeal; I'm not too fond of noisy crowds, preferring to wander around alone.

Our original third day was probably going to be the eastern route of Xi'an, which suits those who want to explore history and culture. I hadn't intended to just tick off tourist spots, but as it turned out, the pandemic kept those attractions closed during my visit (they only announced they were open for reservations the day I left). So that part of the plan was dropped.

On the third day, I took my child to play near her father's place—a large shopping mall where we ate tasty food and had fun. This was probably what she loved most.

I took this last photo because once in an ancient town, I had sent myself a postcard to the future: a 'Cat's Sky City' card. It's a memory.

With no set plans, I listened to the friendly security guard at the hotel who said there was a park nearby we could take the child to. So today was a park day. The park was huge; I envied the locals for having such a leisure spot.

We spent two relaxing days with the child. Then on the weekend, my husband purposely set aside a day to be with us. He planned to take us down a snack street, though I can't recall which one now—all roads lead to Rome, after all. We ended up wandering from street to street and eventually found ourselves back at Huimin Street. That day, the streets were crowded, more like where locals usually go. It was also fun, with lots of food and unique items; we ate nonstop.

Right at the street entrance was a yang rou paomo restaurant recommended online—very famous, though I've forgotten its name. I only remember that the difference between 'premium' and 'regular' in the dish was that premium had double the meat. The portion was huge. Maybe because we'd been eating so much these days or because it was too oily, I couldn't even finish one bowl. So, when sampling local delicacies in Xi'an, it's better to go in a group, order one dish each, and share—that way you can taste many flavors. I was so full that I could only look at the highly recommended sour plum drink, unable to take another sip.

At noon, Dad was called again for an afternoon meeting, so he left, leaving just the two of us. I asked her, since we'd be heading home soon, what else she wanted to see or do. She said she wanted to play at the piano-key floor one more time, see the fountain again, and wander around those shops. Granted!

But Xi'an's sky darkens so slowly, and the daytime was hot. We had to hide from the sun, so we went to a shopping mall near the South Square of the Giant Wild Goose Pagoda. We rested there the entire afternoon, waiting until it was finally dark to go out. Oh! I forgot to mention the Great Tang All Day Mall... Actually, during these days, we had walked along that pedestrian street several times. You don't need to make a special trip; it's just a place you'll pass through.

On our last evening, I took the child to see the fountain again, and I discovered the popular online 'tumbler' performance was on the right side of the fountain (I bet many visitors don't know where it is, because I only stumbled upon it seeing people lining up early). We wandered down the Great Tang All Day Mall street, saw a robot making milk tea (according to someone who bought it, it didn't taste good, 'no soul,' haha...), and bought gifts for the children back home.

As I write, I realize this is less a travel guide and more a record of my journey. I should have written it as soon as I got home—I traveled from April 21 to April 27, but now it's June 11. If not for the photos, I'd hardly remember how I spent the trip. Yet, I feel it was a good trip. Even though it didn't empty my mind like a clean cup, it gave me a realization that has affected many choices since: If every year I'm willing to spend a couple thousand yuan on travel, why am I always so reluctant to spend that money on learning something? On a hobby? On a skill? This insight has made me much less hesitant in future decisions.

To sum up, if you have 3 days in Xi'an, you can plan like this:

Day 1: Shuyuanmen → Stele Forest → Bell and Drum Towers (first half of the day) → Huimin Street (second half) → Tang Paradise (from evening onwards) → Great Tang All Day Mall (if you finish Tang Paradise quickly, there's enough time)

Day 2: Shaanxi History Museum (half a day, to grasp the history) → Yongxingfang (lunch) → Ancient City Wall (half a day, to slowly savor the history) → Giant Wild Goose Pagoda (music fountain) → revisit Great Tang All Day Mall (for food and fun)

Day 3: Terracotta Warriors → Huaqing Pool → The Song of Everlasting Sorrow (I didn't go this route, but I know it works)

If you have an extra day, you can be more leisurely and visit other famous streets, adding the Small Wild Goose Pagoda, Xiaozhai, and night views of the Bell and Drum Towers. That way you'll have basically seen all of Xi'an. Actually, Xi'an isn't that big; if you can walk a lot, you can cover it all! My one regret in Xi'an: not experiencing horseback riding. My impression of this city: it highly values cultural promotion and education; it's a city where men seem more refined than women (I saw many men dressed very formally); women seem rounder; it still carries an aura of the ancient capital of thirteen dynasties, with its civil officials, warriors, and the feeling of riding horses to pay tribute.

Every trip, every city, leaves a different impression. With eyes of discovery, you'll mostly see the beautiful side. As I've grown and visited various places, I've long stopped enjoying trips just for the sake of 'been here, done that,' photo check-ins, or internet-famous spots. I only seek those places that can touch my soul, thrill my senses, and wash away the dust of mundane life.

Where will the next journey take me?