Finding Chang'an in Xi'an: Reflections on My Xi'an Vacation
When it comes to tourist cities, Xi'an is undoubtedly a mega IP. Whether you've been there or not, thousands of years of history are just sitting there, more than a dozen dynasties' capitals were established there, and its cultural and historical sights stand tall. For a history and travel enthusiast, no matter if it's good or bad, whether it matches your imagination or holds up to scrutiny, if you haven't been to Xi'an, it truly tugs at your heartstrings—that restless, must-go feeling. Xi'an is a millennia-old capital that has withstood the test of time and is also the original internet-famous tourist city. Come follow in my footsteps and explore it!
It's predictable that traffic in Xi'an is not very smooth; it's prone to jams, especially during holidays when people are everywhere, lines are long, and congestion is everywhere. So if you want to avoid frustration while traveling in Xi'an, try to steer clear of holidays.
Taxis in Xi'an are cheap, and the drivers are local experts. You can ask them about nearby restaurants, food, or attractions. They are very chatty, likely because they often converse with out-of-town visitors, and they can tell you all the ins and outs of every attraction—you're sure to get some unexpected tips.
Upon arriving at the train station, you'll encounter many touts. Be cautious here: being in an unfamiliar place, they might inflate prices on various pretexts or even take you to a fake Terracotta Warriors site—that's a real rip-off. So it's best not to engage with these street solicitors.
As for accommodation, some like star-rated hotels, others prefer budget and convenience. For me, there's only one rule: comfort. Because when traveling, especially long-distance, if your stay isn't comfortable, it not only affects your mood for sightseeing but, more importantly, makes you unhappy for quite a while. After all, you've come such a long way, and if your accommodation ruins your mood, it's really distressing. I chose Xi'an Licheng Yi Hotel. It’s a short taxi ride from the train station and very close to the Ancient City Wall and Bell and Drum Towers, with convenient transportation. Honestly, this hotel offers exceptional value (I have to admire my booking skills on a certain platform). Its antique charm perfectly matches the city of Xi'an. What I liked most were the lobby book bar and the rooms, which have a subtle Chinese style—yes, subtle (elegant like an orchid is perhaps a fitting description)—incredibly cozy. Let me post a few pictures for you to get a feel.
A quick disclaimer: I'll only share the attractions I visited. I won't comment on places I haven't been, since I have no firsthand experience. Stepping out of the train station, the first sight that greets you is the Ancient City Wall—one of the perks of choosing Xi'an Licheng Yi Hotel is its proximity. The wall's perimeter is over ten kilometers; cycling around it takes about an hour and a half. Climbing the wall is quite a workout; without enough stamina, you simply can't manage it. I really admire the soldiers of old—their fitness must have been top-notch to defend the wall and fight for half a day or more. But once you're on top, you can overlook the scenery of Chang'an, vast and majestic. I highly recommend climbing the wall.
The Bell Tower and Drum Tower, like twin brothers, stand facing each other from a distance, iconic landmarks of Xi'an. The Bell Tower rings its bell, the Drum Tower beats its drum, together creating a melody of the splendor of Tang-dynasty Chang'an. Climbing up also offers views of Chang'an, even more spectacular here, especially at night when the lights come on, making the nightscape indescribably beautiful.
Tang Paradise is a personal favorite of mine, a man-made Tang-style garden. As a huge Tang dynasty fan, I'm utterly captivated. There are sightseeing vehicles you can hop on and off to explore the garden up close and experience its charm. At night, it's even more spectacular, with large-scale terrace performances, especially the indoor show 'Dreaming Back to the Tang Dynasty'—you absolutely must see it (separate ticket required, but well worth it).
The History Museum is extremely crowded, with lines as long as the Great Wall—no exaggeration. But as a millennia-old capital, you simply must visit the museum while in Xi'an. No matter how tough the queue, it's worth it. It's best to hire a human guide for about 50 yuan; otherwise, you're just looking at things without understanding the history and culture behind them. Listening to a guide is like watching 'National Treasure'—you learn so much!
The Big Wild Goose Pagoda and Small Wild Goose Pagoda are two famous landmarks. Personally, I recommend the Small Wild Goose Pagoda more—fewer people, offering a sense of tranquility and calm compared to the bigger one, very pleasant.
The last attraction, and by no means the least, is the Terracotta Warriors! This is not just a must-see in China, but worldwide! One of the Eight Wonders of the World—need I say more? It's awe-inspiring. You'll marvel at how clever and creative ancient people were. But this impact you can only feel by experiencing it firsthand. Also, it's best to hire a guide; a professional guide will enhance the experience immeasurably!
When it comes to Xi'an cuisine, first and foremost, you must go to Huifang Street; most of the local delicacies can be found there. Second is Huimin Street, which is simply a sea of people, with crowds surging and delicious aromas wafting—it's truly irresistible! There's also plenty of great food around the Bell and Drum Towers. During my days in Xi'an, every evening I'd dash out from Licheng Yi Hotel to hunt for bites near the towers; since it's so close, I never got tired of it.
I won't recommend specific dishes because tastes differ—you're sure to find something on those streets. But you must try the Yangrou Paomo (crumbled flatbread in mutton stew). As the saying goes, 'Visiting Xi'an without trying Yangrou Paomo is a wasted trip.' So give it a try; consider it a Xi'an rite of passage.
Apart from the mixed crowd of touts at the train station, the people I met in Xi'an were all pretty nice: chatty taxi drivers, enthusiastic guides, fellow travelers I befriended along the way, and the young staff at Xi'an Licheng Yi Hotel—all made me feel a sense of familiarity in this otherwise unfamiliar city. This will probably drive me to revisit soon!
