Follow Lao Xia on an Independent Tour of Xi'an
According to my plan, today we are taking the train from Yan'an to Xi'an. As a budget traveler, I chose the cheapest green train, which departs at just past noon and arrives at 7 p.m. The ticket costs 21.5 yuan with a seat. Of course, you can choose any train you like; the most expensive high-speed train costs 287 yuan. Xi'an is an ancient capital with many fun places to visit. I've been here a dozen times, so I know the area well. Accommodation choice: Haojia Express Hotel (Xi'an Railway Station), just 500 meters from the train station, twin room at 76 yuan per day. That's 38 yuan per person, breakfast not included.
First, we head to the Giant Wild Goose Pagoda, located in the Da Ci'en Temple in the southern part of the city. Da Ci'en Temple was the most magnificent royal temple in Chang'an during the Tang Dynasty, built in the reign of Emperor Taizong by Crown Prince Li Zhi to honor his mother, Empress Wende. Upon returning from his pilgrimage to India, the monk Xuanzang served as the first abbot. During his time there, Master Xuanzang oversaw the construction of the Giant Wild Goose Pagoda. He spent 11 years translating Buddhist scriptures and promoting Buddhism at the temple, founding the Faxiang (Consciousness-Only) sect, making Da Ci'en Temple the ancestral temple of this school. To house the scriptures, statues, and relics brought back from India, he personally supervised the pagoda's construction. Today's Da Ci'en Temple was rebuilt during the Ming Dynasty on the foundations of the original 'West Pagoda Courtyard,' and most of the existing halls date from the Qing Dynasty. Along the central axis stand the Main Hall, the Dharma Hall, the Giant Wild Goose Pagoda, and the Xuanzang Memorial Hall. The pagoda and the memorial hall house the sacred treasures of the temple: the Buddha's relics and a portion of Xuanzang's skull. East of the axis is the Pagoda Garden, which contains nine stupas enshrining the relics of nine eminent monks from the Qing Dynasty onward. The temple has plazas to the south and north. Nearby attractions include the Shaanxi History Museum and the Tang Paradise.
Xi'an Museum is located within the Jianfu Temple complex. Its main exhibition, 'Ancient Capital Xi'an,' will help you understand the city's thousand-year history as a capital and its urban development. There are also scale models of Xi'an's city walls from the Zhou dynasty through the Ming and Qing dynasties, showing the size, layout, and daily life of successive capitals. The museum houses a vast collection of artifacts from various periods unearthed in the Xi'an area, many from the Zhou, Qin, Han, and Tang dynasties. Highlights include: a Tang dynasty 'tri-colored glazed horse without saddle or reins,' reflecting the free-spirited ethos of the Tang; a Tang 'tri-colored lotus pedestal' with lotus petal motifs and a pagoda-shaped lid, clearly bearing Buddhist significance; and a Western Han 'garlic-head vase,' a representative artifact of Qin culture that originated in the Guanzhong region and spread during Qin's unification wars, disappearing by the mid-Western Han. The museum also has specialized galleries for Buddhist sculptures, ancient calligraphy and paintings, jade ware, and a seal exhibition titled 'A Grain of Millet Contains a Universe.' The museum shares its grounds with the Small Wild Goose Pagoda.
The photo below is: Small Wild Goose Pagoda is situated within Jianfu Temple. Originally 15 stories tall, it lost two stories in an earthquake in 1556 during the Ming Dynasty, leaving it with 13 stories today. After 1949, repairs followed the principle of 'restoring the old as it was,' so the top was not rebuilt, giving it a more ancient and weathered feel compared to the renovated Giant Wild Goose Pagoda. Although it is a brick pagoda with closely spaced eaves, there is a wooden staircase inside that once led to the top; however, interior repairs are ongoing, so climbing is currently not permitted. Xi'an Museum is centered around the Small Wild Goose Pagoda and includes Jianfu Temple and the exhibition halls, which are located southwest of the temple.
Xi'an City Wall, also known as the Ming City Wall, is one of China's four best-preserved ancient city walls, along with those of Pingyao, Jingzhou, and Xingcheng. It is the largest and most intact ancient fortification in the country. As of 2006, there are 18 gates in total, with the four main ones at the cardinal directions: Changle Gate (east), Yongning Gate (south), Anding Gate (west), and Anyuan Gate (north). A moat flows quietly around the wall, evoking scenes from TV dramas of ancient battles with clashing armor and warhorses. The wall is remarkably solid and well-preserved, so thick that you can cycle or even drill on top of it. The entire Ming Wall stretches 13.74 kilometers, stands 12 meters high, and is 12-14 meters wide at the top and 15-18 meters wide at the base. Each gate has a triple defensive system: a sluice tower, an archery tower, and the main tower. The main tower is 32 meters tall and about 40 meters long, built in the xieshan style with upturned eaves, triple layered, and surrounded by a corridor on the ground floor. It is both imposing and elegant, full of ancient charm. While many gates offer access, Yongning Gate is the best, offering the finest views. The large square in front of it is especially beautiful, enhancing the historic atmosphere.
Yongning Gate is the main southern gate of Xi'an's city wall, often simply called the South Gate. Built in the early Sui Dynasty, it is the oldest and longest-serving gate. During the Sui, it was the easternmost of the three southern gates of the imperial city, known as Anshang Gate. At the end of the Tang dynasty, when the city was scaled down, it was kept as the south gate, and during the Ming dynasty, it was renamed Yongning Gate. Serving as the welcome gate of Xi'an, it's the most completely and beautifully restored, making it the most popular entry point for visitors to climb the wall. In Chinese folklore, the south is associated with the fire god, so the name 'Yongning' (eternal peace) was chosen to pray for fire prevention and lasting tranquility. Today, the gate complex includes a review platform, sluice tower, crescent wall, barbican, and gate tower. The archery tower was destroyed during the defense of Xi'an in 1926 but has been rebuilt with an exterior matching the original while incorporating a museum inside that displays archaeological remains and the history of the city wall. Outside the gate lies South Gate Square, inside is South Street, and outside leads to Nanguan Zhengjie. The gate is also close to the Shuyuanmen Cultural Street and the Forest of Steles Museum.
Xi'an Drum Tower stands opposite the Bell Tower and is one of the city's iconic landmarks. Built in 1380 during the Ming Dynasty, climbing up you'll see a massive 1.8-meter drum, as well as 24 red drums carved with the 24 solar terms, quite imposing. Inside, there are exhibitions of Ming and Qing furniture, ceramics, and calligraphy and paintings by Qi Baishi. The Drum Tower is the largest in China, resting on a tall rectangular base pierced by a 6-meter-high and -wide north-south archway. The tower itself has two stories, topped with green glazed tiles.
On the south side of the Drum Tower hangs a plaque reading 'Land of Civil and Military Splendor,' paired with another famous plaque at Shanhaiguan, 'First Pass under Heaven,' the two are celebrated as 'China's Two Plaques.' Unfortunately, both were destroyed during times of turmoil, and what you see now are replicas. While visiting, you can also enjoy performances recreating the ancient tradition of 'morning bell and evening drum,' as well as traditional folk music and dance shows—six daily daytime performances, with details available on the official website. Between the Drum and Bell Towers lies the Bell and Drum Tower Square, landscaped with greenery and flowers, and featuring a uniquely designed musical fountain. The night view here is especially beautiful and great for photos. Right behind the Drum Tower is the foodie haven of Muslim Street.
The Great Mosque is located in a small alley on Muslim Street. Founded in the Tang Dynasty and rebuilt in the Qing, it blends classical Chinese architecture with Islamic influences, featuring upturned eaves, pavilions, and covered walkways. On many wooden doors and brick walls, you'll find intricate wood and brick carvings that use Islamic three-dimensional motifs to depict traditional Chinese floral and plant patterns. The mosque is compact, laid out in a traditional Chinese courtyard style along a central axis, making for a very pleasant stroll. Starting from the screen wall, you'll pass through a wooden archway, the Five-Bay Hall (second gate), a stone memorial arch, the Imperially Commissioned Hall (third gate), the Introspection Minaret, the Triple Gate (fourth gate), Phoenix Pavilion, the Moon Platform, and finally the Prayer Hall.
The Prayer Hall is the most important building in the mosque, used by local Muslims for worship. It has a peacock-blue glazed tile roof, and inside, the ceiling's caisson paintings are exquisite. There are also 30 wooden panels about 4 meters high, carved with verses from the Quran. Unfortunately, the Prayer Hall is off-limits to non-Muslims and women, so most visitors can only peek inside from the doorway. Near the stone memorial arch, a stone tablet bears the inscription 'The Way Embraces Heaven and Earth,' handwritten by the Song Dynasty calligrapher Mi Fu. Above the door of the Imperially Commissioned Hall hangs a horizontal plaque reading 'Imperial Gift to the Mosque,' written by the Ming calligrapher Dong Qichang—both are must-sees for calligraphy enthusiasts.
Muslim Street is not a single street but a collective name for several streets in the Muslim quarter of downtown Xi'an, including Beiyuanmen, Beiguangji Street, Xiyangshi, and Dapiyuan. This area is a hub for Xi'an snacks, and with a history spanning centuries, it's steeped in Muslim culture. You'll find virtually every local snack here, also known as 'Huifang' or 'Fangshang.' You can sample all kinds of grilled skewers, pita bread soaked in lamb soup, soup dumplings, spicy lamb hooves, mutton soup, pickled cabbage fried rice, cured beef and lamb, cold skin noodles, and lamb pancakes, among others. After enjoying the food, you can buy local pastries, dried fruits, candied treats, and more as souvenirs for friends and family. The area is home to around 20,000 Muslims living around several mosques of various ages, such as the Great Mosque on Huajue Alley, the Small Mosque on Guangji Street, and the Mosque on Daxuexi Alley, preserving traditional religious practices. Most visitors start their exploration of Muslim Street from Beiyuanmen on West Street, not far from the Drum and Bell Towers.
This is the kind of noodles that costs 20 yuan.
Xi'an's City God Temple is a sacred site of the Quanzhen sect of Taoism and one of the three major City God Temples in China. Founded in 1387 during the Ming Dynasty, it was originally located on Jiuyao Street inside the East Gate and moved to its current site in 1432. It was designated to oversee the city gods of several northwestern provinces, hence called 'Capital City God Temple.' In front of the temple, there was once a large five-bay memorial arch guarded by a pair of iron lions. Inside the main gate, a hundred-meter-long bluestone path is flanked by majestic statues of guardian deities. On both sides, there are east and west cloisters where Taoist monks lived and cultivated, originally comprising 33 halls. Back then, it drew huge crowds and thriving worship. Today, it is a well-known ancient Taoist temple, divided into three parts: a tourist area, a commercial zone (including underground), and a dining area on the street behind the temple.
Shaanxi Provincial Library.
In Xi'an, the most famous pita bread in lamb soup used to be at Lao Sun Jia on East Street, but the quality has declined and prices are high now, about 30-35 yuan per bowl. It's slightly better than Quanjude in Beijing or Goubuli in Tianjin.
Shuyuanmen Pedestrian Street is located just east of the South Gate (Yongning Gate) of the ancient city wall, connecting to South Street to the west and ending near the Forest of Steles Museum to the east. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, the prestigious 'Guanzhong Academy' stood on this street. The street is lined with antique-style buildings, where shops sell calligraphy, paintings, and the 'four treasures of the study' (brush, ink, paper, and inkstone). As you turn from South Street, the noise suddenly fades; the street is paved with bluestone slabs, shaded by tall locust trees, and flanked by uniformly styled buildings. Stretching just over 500 meters, it packs over a hundred shops selling the kind of souvenirs found in tourist spots across China.
Compared with other commercial pedestrian streets in China, here you'll find a particularly high concentration of calligraphy and painting shops. Many display works by folk artists alongside those of renowned masters (though expect plenty of fakes). There are also street-side stalls, often just a desk where the owner writes or paints on the spot, selling their creations—some are quite talented. For them, selling is perhaps less important than exchanging skills with like-minded friends. Because calligraphy and painting require the four treasures, there are specialized shops selling top-quality xuan paper, refined inkstones, and more. The street also has small folk craft shops offering everything from stone rubbings and ancient xun (clay ocarinas) to local paper-cuts and shadow puppets.
There's a bookstore in Xi'an called Lanhai Feng · Manxiang (Blue Ocean Wind · Wandering Alley). Recently, it's become a very popular Instagrammable spot, and we were curious—what kind of bookstore could draw so many people just to check in? So today, we decided to go with an investigative spirit. First, it's relatively easy to get to. Lanhai Feng Center is located on Fengcheng 2nd Road, between Wenjing Road and Mingguang Road in the Weiyang District. The nearest subway station is Shitushuguan (City Library) on Line 2; from there, take bus 207 to Fengcheng 2nd Road and walk about 200 meters.
Secondly, this is a bookstore with a strong design sense. It adopts a dark, cool aesthetic. The main book corridor stretches 240 meters long and 18 meters high, with towering walls lined with hundreds of thousands of books. While prioritizing beauty, it also creates an immersive reading environment.
Then, most importantly, it's also a 'cultural community.' The entire second floor is a hybrid reading experience space that combines books, catering, and creative cultural products. With the presence of the well-known cultural brand 'Lixiangguo × Wanbang,' it becomes an ideal place for all who love reading and life.
If you like this style, you should definitely check it out when you get the chance! Amid the fast pace of a big city, a weekend visit here lets you unwind and enjoy a moment of slow living!
