South Wutai Travelogue: The Divine Elegance of Zhongnan – 'Where Earth Meets Sky, I Become the Summit'

Mount Taiyi nears the heavenly capital,

Mountain chains linking seas afar.

White clouds gather when I glance back,

Blue mist vanishes as I draw near.

The central peak divides the land,

Valleys shift from sun to shade.

Seeking a lodge for the night,

I hail the woodcutter across the stream.

— Wang Wei, "Mount Zhongnan"

Aside from Shaanxi locals, most people from elsewhere probably know about South Wutai on Zhongnan Mountain from Jin Yong's martial arts novel The Return of the Condor Heroes. Throughout history, Zhongnan Mountain has been a sacred place for Buddhism and Taoism, a secluded retreat where hermits and sages cultivated themselves. It has long been celebrated in literature. Its main peak lies within Chang'an District, reaching an elevation of 2,604 meters. The couplet “May your fortune be as boundless as the Eastern Sea’s endless waters, and your life as lasting as the undying pines of the Southern Mountain” refers to Zhongnan Mountain.

South Wutai is the core scenic area of the Xi'an Qinling Zhongnan Mountain World Geopark, nestled in the middle section of the Qinling range. Since ancient times it has been acclaimed as “the most divinely scenic realm of Zhongnan.” Five natural peaks—Daitai, Wenshu, Qingliang, Lingying, and Sheshen—are collectively called South Wutai. The area is crisscrossed by rolling mountains, adorned with magnificent primeval forest, ancient and famous trees, and rich seasonal transformations—each season displaying its own beauty. In autumn, South Wutai turns especially fantastical and mysterious. When the northern peaks peek above a sea of clouds, they appear and disappear like fairy islands, as if drifting in a celestial dream.

☝ Ran into two pretty ladies in Hanfu snapping photos at the scenic spot—had to take a group photo with them!

Shengshou Temple is an ancient temple that has stood for over a thousand years. Inside is a precious Sui Dynasty pagoda called the Great Shrine Body Pagoda. Through the ebb and flow of time and the vicissitudes of the world, the restored millennium-old temple bears witness to the footprints of history. They say that an ancient temple with a Sui pagoda like this is rare even nationwide.

Climbing the steps, I leaned on the railing to gaze into the distance. The mountainsides displayed a medley of colors: evergreen pines and cypresses, changing willows and poplars, and vividly red vines. Sunlight scattered through the mist into the forest, evoking a feeling of blissful tranquility. Even the air was tinged with the scent of autumn harvest.

Continuing up the stone stairs, a boulder suddenly appeared, inscribed with four bright red characters: “Divine Elegance of Zhongnan.” On one side, three smaller red characters read “Fire Dragon Cave,” beneath which was a natural cavern. Inside rested a stone dragon, draped in colorful silks, with wisps of incense smoke curling upward. Legend says this is where Guanyin Bodhisattva subdued the fire dragon. On closer look, the carving lines on the stone dragon still seemed fresh—clearly sculpted in later times.

Following the steep stone steps further up, I reached Zizhu Forest Monastery, nestled among sheer, rugged rock faces. The monastery complex clings to the back of the main peak, Guanyin Terrace, with an exquisitely compact layout. Inside, ancient stelae and statues were all enveloped in the incense-laden air. Standing by the balustrade and looking north, I could clearly see the crisscrossing fields and villages of Chang’an. To the west, I beheld Linzhu Valley, and to the east, Lingying Terrace. The scenery was indeed uniquely beautiful. Zizhu Forest Monastery is said to be one of the earliest and largest monasteries on South Wutai—and one of the most ancient on Zhongnan Mountain.

Lingying Terrace is the highest peak of South Wutai. Standing there, I felt the sublime sense of “all other mountains dwarfed beneath me.” The brilliant autumn reds became the dominant hue, while the deep evergreen foliage retreated into a backdrop, dotted with various temples and ancient shrines, adding a touch of Zen to the autumn landscape. This must be the landmark of South Wutai: seen from afar, such a structure at the tip of a peak was truly awe-inspiring.

At each summit, I surveyed the endless rising and falling ranges, gentle autumn breezes brushing by. Breathing the refreshing air, I instantly cast aside the city’s clamor. If the sunshine had been perfect, with blue sky and billowy clouds stretching forever, it would have been even more spectacular. Unfortunately, when we visited, despite the sun, the cloud cover was still quite thick.

【Warm Tips】

Celebrating the upcoming double festival, South Wutai Scenic Area is hosting a special “Golden Autumn Joy & Holiday Fun” theme event, offering a variety of activities for visitors from all over:

Event 1: Unveil the Charm of Zhongnan – Enjoy Timeless Beauty

On October 1, at the mountain gate and in the lower platform area of Zizhu Forest Monastery (Buddhist Culture Garden), there will be Han Dynasty etiquette displays, Han cultural art performances, and fun quizzes.

Event 2: Celebrate with the Nation – Flash Sale on South Wutai Tickets

To mark the birthday of our great motherland, during the National Day holiday, visitors can take part in special flash sales for tickets through online shopping platforms.

Event 3: Dine & Save

During National Day, visitors eating at the second-floor restaurant at the mountain gate (with a per-person spend over 30 yuan) can enjoy a 40% discount on admission tickets. This offer cannot be combined with other promotions.

Event 4: Photo Check-in Activity (“I’m at South Wutai with the National Flag”)

At designated check-in spots (mountain gate, Lingying Terrace, or “Sisters Riding the Wind and Waves”), hold a small national flag (bring your own or buy one on-site), take a photo, and upload it to your WeChat Moments. If you get 36 likes, you’ll receive one free admission ticket (valid from October 12 to November 30, 2020).

Event 5: Mid-Autumn Clay Mooncake Crafting

On Mid-Autumn Day, visitors can make colorful clay mooncakes for free at Zhongnan Kitchen, expressing their feelings about the festival.

【Bus Route】

Take Xi’an Metro Line 2 to Weiqu South Station, then transfer to bus No. 730 to reach the scenic area.

【Self-Drive Routes】

1. From Xi’an Qujiang Interchange, enter the Baomao Expressway (Xi-Zha section) and exit at Taiyigong. Drive west for about 10 minutes to arrive.

2. From Chang’an District, take Ziwu Avenue or Chang’an Avenue to Huanshan Road, then head east for about 10 minutes to the scenic area.

【Photo & text editor: Zhao Weili】