First Release: Let's Go, Road Trip to Xi'an – An Adventure into the Ancient Capital of a Thousand Years

📍 Xi'an · 👁 6 reads · ❤️ 89 likes

A flourishing Chang'an, the grandeur of the Tang Dynasty. Everyone harbors a dream of Tang, a tune they hum over and over. The Tang Dynasty band's softly sung 'Dreaming Back to the Tang Dynasty' carved an indelible mark on my memory—

Along the palm lines, fate is etched; tonight, sober from wine, there are no dreams.

Following fate into a labyrinth of thoughts, in dreams I return to Tang.

Tonight, the cup reflects the bright moon; men till, women weave, the Silk Road bustles.

Tonight, the cup reflects the bright moon; the land is rich in natural treasures and outstanding talents.

Tonight, the cup reflects the bright moon; paper, incense, ink fly, verses fill the river.

Tonight, the cup reflects the bright moon; heroes' spirit shines, the universe gleams.

Dreams originate from reality but are not the same as it. I cannot travel through time and space, back to the Tang Dynasty.

But I can choose when and how to go to Xi'an. Take a weekend, gather a few friends, rent an RV locally, and drive the RV, stopping along the way to see the bustling Silk Road of the ancient capital of thirteen dynasties. Stand at the eastern starting point of the Chang'an Silk Road, use your eyes to find the natural treasures of the 800-li Qinchuan region, and use your heart to decipher the outstanding talents of five thousand years of history.

Shijiazhuang – Xi'an

Accommodation: Vienna Hotel (Dayanta Branch)

Tang Paradise – Shaanxi History Museum – Dayan Pagoda – Water Dance Music Fountain at Dayan Pagoda North Square – Grand Tang Dynasty Ever-Bright City – Hancheng Lake RV Campsite

Accommodation: Yishang Hotel (Hancheng Lake Branch)

Emperor Qinshihuang's Mausoleum Site Museum (Terracotta Army) – Return trip

Xi'an is a necessary passage from the northwest to the central plains, northern and eastern China. It is the largest central city in the western region along the Longhai–Lanxin Railway economic belt, strategically vital for connecting east and west, north and south, and is one of the largest node cities in the national trunk highway network.

By Air: Xi'an Xianyang International Airport is an important aviation hub in China; flying to Xi'an is very convenient.

By Train: Railway lines such as Zhengzhou–Xi'an High-Speed Railway, Xi'an–Baoji High-Speed Railway, Datong–Xi'an Passenger Dedicated Line, Xi'an–Chengdu High-Speed Railway intersect in Xi'an. If you come by train, you can choose the nearest station. Xi'an's railway stations include Xi'an Station, Xi'an North Station, Xi'an South Station, Epang Palace Station, etc.

Xi'an North Station is the high-speed rail station, located in Weiyang District. Most of the scenic spots visited on the second day are in Yanta District. From Xi'an North Station to Yanta District, you can take the subway or a taxi. Taking the subway costs about 5 yuan, while a taxi ride costs around 70 yuan.

By Car: With more private cars, self-drive travel has become the first choice for more and more people. If you drive yourself, try to avoid congestion and take the City Ring Expressway. In case of traffic jams, drive carefully, don't be aggressive, and prioritize safety.

1. About Self-Driving

Only safe arrival is the shortest way. For self-drive trips, please plan your transportation route in advance and check the round-trip mileage. If maintenance is due, have your vehicle serviced beforehand. If the round trip falls within the service interval, check your car's condition before departure, including tire wear, bulges, tire pressure, lights, brake pads and discs, instruments, and warning signs. Identify and eliminate potential hazards early.

Driving from Shijiazhuang to Xi'an is about 810 km, all via expressway, taking about 9 hours and 5 minutes. On expressways, follow the 'rest at every third service area' rule—that is, rest for about ten minutes every third service area to give yourself and your car a break. For long-distance driving, it's best to have at least two drivers who can take turns to avoid fatigue. Keep an eye on the fuel gauge and avoid letting it drop below the warning line.

2. About Tickets

From August 1, 2020 to December 31, 2020, 53 A-level scenic spots in Xi'an offer free admission with prior reservation. This includes Tang Paradise and Shaanxi History Museum on this itinerary. Visitors from other provinces can visit with a green health code, but must make online reservations in advance. During this special period, ensure proper protection; masks are essential for entering scenic areas and using public transport.

3. About Photography

A nice long dress with a shawl will make your photos stunning for your WeChat Moments, attracting endless likes. If conditions allow, bring a wide-angle lens and a telephoto, alternating between the two for flexibility. Xi'an has a long history and rich cultural heritage, but is also a newly popular 'internet-famous' city, with throngs of tourists every day. When taking night photos at the Grand Tang Dynasty Ever-Bright City, don't bother bringing a tripod—reality won't allow it; there's no room to set up a tripod. Rely on high ISO capability instead. If you prefer to travel light, just a mobile phone is fine.

4. About Aerial Photography

Drone control in Xi'an is extremely strict; most scenic spots within the city prohibit flying. If your itinerary is entirely within the city, you can leave the drone at home.

Under Xi'an people's city wall runs Xi'an people's train; Xi'an people, no matter where they go, can't skip eating paomo (crumbled flatbread in mutton stew). The song Xi'an People sings about the lives of Xi'an people. If it's your first time and you want to taste Xi'an cuisine, head to Lianhu Historical and Cultural Block, also known as Muslim Street. It's a famous snack street and a must-visit food stop in Xi'an. Century-old shops are everywhere, and many have been featured on CCTV. Old Liu's Biangbiang Noodles, Old Mi's Paomo, Old Sun's Paomo—shop after shop, each with long queues.

If it's not your first time in Xi'an and you don't want to queue, there are various delicious small eateries scattered around the city. Ordering takeout is also a good choice: pick a tasty little place, order a few favorite dishes, place your order, and wait for the food to arrive.

About Accommodation: Follow the principle of proximity and feasibility, choosing places near your destinations according to your itinerary. Whether it's a star hotel or a special homestay, cleanliness and hygiene come first, and if there's complementary dining, that's simply perfect.

Because some attractions were free and we wanted a different travel experience, we boldly chose to tour Chang'an in an RV. The RV was an SAIC Maxus RV80 C-type, with huge space that could accommodate 6 people and sleep 4. Inside, you could sit, lie down—whatever was most comfortable. It's an automatic RV that can be driven with a C-class license. Traveling with your home on your back is just that simple and joyful.

Our original plan was to camp at the Hancheng Lake RV camp that night, so we could open the window to a view early next morning. But the autumn air was crisp and cold, and our companions were rather delicate, so after a barbecue at the camp, we obediently went to a hotel.

Tang Paradise is located in Qujiang Development Zone, south of Xi'an, southeast of Dayan Pagoda. It was reconstructed north of the original Tang Dynasty Lotus Garden ruins, modeled after Tang imperial gardens. It is China's first large-scale imperial garden-style cultural theme park that comprehensively showcases the style of the prosperous Tang Dynasty, covering 1000 mu (66.7 hectares), including 300 mu (20 hectares) of water.

Tang Paradise is filled with Tang cultural elements: sculptures and poems represent the peak of Tang, and replicas of Tang artifacts all embody 'Tang' characteristics. Nearly 80,000 square meters of pseudo-Tang buildings have been restored according to the originals. Structures such as Ziyun Tower, Ladies' Hall, Imperial Banquet Hall, Apricot Garden, Fanglin Garden, Fengming Jiutian Theatre, and Tang Market collectively exemplify Tang architectural forms—practically a complete textbook of Tang architecture. An investment of 60 million yuan created the lake fountain, where you can watch the world's largest water-screen film. The lakeside performance 'Dreaming Back to the Tang Dynasty,' composed by Zhao Jiping and integrating song, dance, music, poetry, and recitation with light, sound, and electronics, will fulfill your dream of Tang.

When night falls and the lights come on, the ancient Tang-style Lotus Garden transforms into a bustling, noisy scene of illuminated splendor, like the Tang at its peak. Within these thousand mu of garden and three hundred mu of water, brilliant lights reflect each other. At night in Tang Paradise, scenes that once belonged only in Tang scrolls unfold vividly before your eyes: pavilions and terraces glow with flowing colors, bridges and water shine together, the dazzling lights magnify the beauty of Lotus Lake, creating a magnificent, vivid, and resplendent picture.

The land of San Qin is one of the vital regions where the Chinese nation lived and multiplied, and where Chinese civilization was born and developed. The most glorious dynasties in Chinese history—Zhou, Qin, Han, Tang, among others—altogether thirteen dynasties—established their capitals here. Abundant cultural remains and profound cultural accumulation have formed Shaanxi's unique historical and cultural character. Hailed as 'the Pearl of the Ancient Capital, the Treasure House of China,' the Shaanxi History Museum is an artistic palace that showcases Shaanxi's history and ancient Chinese civilization.

The origin of 'San Qin' (Three Qin) dates back to Xiang Yu. After the fall of Qin, Xiang Yu divided the Qin territory among three surrendered Qin generals. He enfeoffed Zhang Han as King of Yong, ruling western Guanzhong; Sima Xin as King of Sai, ruling eastern Guanzhong; and Dong Yi as King of Di, ruling Shangjun (present-day northern Shaanxi). Thus Shaanxi is also called 'San Qin.'

The architecture of the Shaanxi History Museum deliberately highlights Tang grandeur. The complex consists of a set of Tang-style buildings with 'a central hall and four majestic corner towers,' arranged symmetrically along an axis with a clear hierarchy. It combines Tang classical architectural style with modern museum functions, blending Chinese palace and courtyard architecture.

Walking into the Shaanxi History Museum is like walking into the loves and hatreds, wars and conflicts, sweet romances, and strategies of thirteen dynasties…

The museum houses over 370,000 cultural relics, spanning more than a million years from simple stone tools used in early human stages to various objects of social life before 1840. These include exquisite Shang and Zhou bronzes, diverse figurines from various dynasties, Han and Tang gold and silver wares, and Tang tomb murals. They symbolize Shaanxi's long history and culture. The museum is known as the 'Treasure House of Chinese Civilization' and 'a magnificent palace of Chinese civilization.'

The Hejiacun hoard finds are the most eye-catching part of the museum's rich collection. Since 2010, over 300 outstanding pieces have been on display in a special exhibition 'Tang Dynasty Treasures – Hejiacun Hoard Unearthed Artifacts' on the first basement level of the west exhibition hall. In a sense, this gallery both belongs to and is independent of the main museum; entry requires a separate ticket. Despite a daily visitor limit, it cannot stem the enthusiasm; people line up early.

At the entrance of the exhibition hall sit the original 'two jars and one pot.' It's hard to imagine how these 1,000-odd treasures were packed into these three containers. Who owned them? Why were they buried underground? These questions remain a mystery. The hall is dimly lit, with only the exhibits illuminated, as if the treasures themselves emit light, drawing attention and inviting you to listen to their stories. Taking beautiful close-ups of these treasures is a real test of your photography skills.

The Agate Cup with Gilt Beast Head is the museum's 'crown jewel,' one of a kind in China, and prohibited from being taken abroad. It is the most exquisite Tang jade artifact, crafted from a rare piece of multicolored banded agate. The cup imitates the shape of an animal horn, with the front carved as an ox head with a gilt mouth, a masterstroke.

Shaanxi History Museum Free Admission Hours: Open Tuesday to Sunday, closed all day Monday for maintenance (except on national holidays).

Winter (Nov 15 – Mar 15): 9:00–17:30 (last ticket issued at 16:00)

Summer (Mar 16 – Nov 14): 8:30–18:00 (last ticket issued at 16:30)

'Tang Dynasty Treasures – Hejiacun Hoard Unearthed Artifacts' special exhibition ticket: 30 yuan

Dayan Pagoda is a landmark and famous monument of Xi'an, a symbol of the ancient city. The very center of the Xi'an city emblem features this ancient pagoda.

Speaking of Dayan Pagoda, one must mention the renowned Tang Dynasty monk Xuanzang, known later as Tang Seng. In 643 AD, Xuanzang returned home with 657 Buddhist scriptures. In the first month of the 19th year of Zhenguan (645 AD), he arrived in Chang'an. Later, under Emperor Taizong's patronage, he built a five-story pagoda in the western courtyard of Ci'en Temple—today's Dayan Pagoda—to store sutras and statues brought from India.

Da Ci'en Temple was the most famous and magnificent Buddhist temple in Tang Chang'an, built by imperial decree with royal patronage, enjoying high status and massive scale. Xuanzang was the first abbot, revered as the 'Tripitaka Master.'

Approaching Dayan Pagoda, you see the bronze statue of Master Xuanzang in front of the temple gate, his journey westward in search of wisdom.

To this day, Dayan Pagoda remains a must-visit spot in Xi'an. As someone once wrote: 'Who planted a colorful brush into the heavens, the wild-goose-shaped pagoda stands proud. It has weathered the ages yet remains sturdy, enduring wind and rain with honor. Seven tiers rise uniquely, steady against the sky. Many poets and literati have passed by, vying to leave their poems and inscriptions to this day.'

The original design of Dayan Pagoda imitated the famous and only Buddha-adoring high pagoda in India—Buddha Gaya (Mahābodhi Temple). It had five stories and was 60 meters high. Later, Emperor Gaozong Li Zhi felt this Indian-style structure was somewhat dissonant with Chang'an's overall architectural style, so it was remodeled and raised to nine stories.

In the 32nd year of the Wanli reign of the Ming Dynasty (1604), Dayan Pagoda underwent its fifth major repair and reinforcement. While maintaining the basic Tang-era form, the exterior was completely re-covered with a 60 cm thick cladding layer. The pagoda is 64.5 meters high, the base sides 25 meters long, covering an area of 2061 square meters—this is the Dayan Pagoda we see today.

Since its construction, many historical figures have climbed it, leaving behind countless timeless verses. Du Fu wrote: 'Soaring high beyond the sky, fierce winds never cease.' Cen Shen penned: 'The pagoda rises like a surge, solitary it soars to the heavens; ascending, you leave the world behind, the stairway coils into the void.' Their powerful descriptions and profound reflections still resonate with visitors ascending the pagoda.

Right in this place, dreams begin to travel.

Chang'an night, melt my long-frozen sentiments of a thousand years.

Chang'an night, the heart no longer feels incomplete in the cycle of rebirth.

Chang'an night, who understands your ancient rhyming annotations?

Chang'an night, my night.

'Lantern-lit Lotus Garden night, family reunions amid splendor'—this is the flourishing Chang'an.

Terracotta Army — Li Shangyin

With all sincerity guarding the emperor's spirit,

Who says clay figures are unfeeling?

The dragon rider goes north, leaving Xianyang far behind,

Battle formations face east, clear by the Wei River.

At Zhifu, shooting fish subdues venomous serpents,

At Mount Tai, inscribing stone stirs thunder and lightning.

Why would they be content as ghosts in the underworld?

Shake off the yellow dust and startle the world!

Li Shangyin's meaning: Sincerely guarding the imperial tomb, who says clay figures lack emotion? The First Emperor rides a dragon north, far from Xianyang, to line up troops and display power by the Wei River. Shooting big fish at Zhifu subdues vipers; sealing the stone at Taishan provokes heavenly thunder. Why would they resign themselves to being mere ghosts in the Nine Springs? Better to shake off this yellow loess and once again shock the world.

Another poem, 'Thoughts on Viewing the Qin Terracotta Army':

On Mount Li, blood-stained lashes drove forced labor;

Ambitious for hegemony and even the underworld.

No assassin hides beneath the mound,

So why three thousand terracotta soldiers?

It says: The whip that drove forced labor on Mount Li was soaked in blood; as his empire rose, he pondered the afterlife. Since no assassin hides beneath the tomb, why the need for three thousand pottery warriors?

The flames of war over six kingdoms were swept away,

No more rivalry in the human world.

Speaking of the Terracotta Army, as a child I watched the TV series 'Qin Shi Huang.' The First Emperor's life was much debated—unifying six kingdoms, burning books and burying scholars. The series also portrayed his loneliness and helplessness; it's lonely at the top, and he was the first to call himself emperor.

I still remember some lines of the theme song:

Who leveled the six kingdoms?

Who unified and dominated?

Whose exploits surpass the lone ruler?

High above, all lords behold,

My empire's beauty like a painting.

Climbing mountains, treading mist, pointing to heaven, laughing and cursing.

Qin begins here, I am present,

Seizing eternal grace.

Stubborn stones record history,

Heralding how I commanded.

The Terracotta Army of Emperor Qin Shihuang, abbreviated as Qin Terracotta Army or Qin figurines, are funerary sculptures of soldiers and horses made of terracotta. The Mausoleum of the First Qin Emperor and the Terracotta Army pits are inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List and hailed as the 'eighth wonder of the world.'

In the film 'A Terracotta Warrior' directed by Zhang Yimou and starring Gong Li, a love story spanning ancient and modern times, with affection, reluctance, and memories of past lives, left me with an ineffable feeling and curiosity toward the Terracotta Army.

Qin Shi Huang Mausoleum lies at the northern foot of Mount Li, east of Lintong District, Xi'an. The pits are a burial pit of the mausoleum, the largest underground military museum in the world.

Currently, three pits are open to the public. Pit 1, the largest and rectangular, features a main force combining chariots and infantry. Over 1,000 pottery warriors have been unearthed, along with 8 chariots, 32 horses, and nearly 10,000 bronze pieces. Upon entering Pit 1, a huge ancient military formation unfolds before your eyes; it feels as if a battlefield with thundering war cries and neighing chariots is right before you. In a daze, you might believe these warriors are deploying, their mission unchanged for thousands of years.

It's said that when first unearthed, traces of color could still be seen on the faces and clothing of the figures. Among the more than 1,000 warriors and horses excavated so far, almost none are identical. Through a telephoto lens, each warrior's face differs—smiling, pensive. Some are bearded veterans of long campaigns, others young soldiers new to battle. The whole army carries a strong flavor of real life and emotion, as if they've always walked the earth, never buried, or as if they're living people experiencing a soldier's life.

After centuries of wind, frost, rain, and snow, buried deep under this thick, yellow earth, the moment light seeped through the cracks after millennia of darkness, they captured the world's attention.

Time has taken away the Qin Empire's hegemony, leaving behind the world-shocking Terracotta Army. Each warrior has its own story: how it was made, placed, discovered, and restored. Throughout these countless springs and autumns, through centuries of war, they lay quietly underground, serving as the emperor's pottery army. A beam of light brought them to the world; in an instant, color faded from their bodies, but expressions remain clear, postures still perfect, and that slight smile at the corner of the mouth may be acceptance of their fated role.

Why would they be content as ghosts in the underworld? Shake off the yellow dust and startle the world!

Ancient capital of a thousand years, come often to Chang'an.

Here, your memories can extend further back—far enough to communicate with Emperor Qin, to resonate with Emperor Tang.

Travelogue Contents

1. [About This Trip]

2. [About the Itinerary]

3. [About Transportation]

4. [Practical Tips]

5. [About Accommodation and Food]

6. Tang Paradise / Dreaming Back to the Flourishing Tang, Seeing All Chang'an Flowers in One Day

7. Shaanxi History Museum / Eight-Hundred-Li Qinchuan Rich in Treasures, Five Thousand Years of History Nurturing Talents

8. Dayan Pagoda / Dayan Pagoda Stands Tall on the Land, Qujiang Bank Where We Drink and Write