RV Road Trip to Xi'an: The Glorious Chang'an, Here for You

The ancient capital of thirteen dynasties, the glorious Chang'an. If I had to pick one city to represent China, I think I would choose Xi'an. This land has witnessed five thousand years of Chinese history, from Qin Shi Huang unifying the land, to Emperor Wu of Han building his legacy, from the prosperous Western Zhou to the flourishing Tang Dynasty. Xi'an has seen the rise and fall of dynasty after dynasty. Today, it sparkles with countless lights and long pavilions sending travelers on their way. Seven years have passed since I skipped school and secretly traveled to Xi'an alone behind my parents' backs. Now, I'm back.

When Chen Kaige's "Legend of the Demon Cat" painted a picture of a magnificent Tang Dynasty, and "The Longest Day in Chang'an" brought its bustling street life to life, I completely fell in love with that golden era. The Xi'an of today may not look exactly as it did back then, but every Chinese New Year, it transforms back into that glorious scene.

Tang Paradise, a Romantic Imperial Garden

This time I stepped into Chang'an not through the city walls or the bell tower, but from the most beautiful ancient garden—Tang Paradise. If you love Tang Dynasty history, you absolutely must visit. Walking in here feels like dreaming your way back to Chang'an of the Tang era. Although it's a later reconstruction of a royal garden, it's based on historical records and restores the look of the prosperous Tang as faithfully as possible.

Tang Paradise is China's first large-scale cultural theme park built in the style of a Tang imperial garden, located north of the original Tang Dynasty Lotus Garden site. It recreates the layout of Tang royal gardens and includes many replica structures like Ziyun Tower, the Ladies' Hall, Imperial Banquet Palace, Apricot Garden, Fanglin Garden, Fengming Jiutian Theater, and Tang Market—the largest collection of Tang-style imperial architecture in the country.

With limited time, we headed straight for the iconic Ziyun Tower. Standing at the center, on the main axis with Qiting Pavilion, the tower has four floors. The ground floor displays sculptures and murals of the "Reign of Zhenguan" era, a large model of Tang-era Chang'an, and first-class Tang artifacts.

The bright red carved beams and painted rafters are classic Tang royal color schemes. It's said that when the empire's coffers were overflowing, the emperor would toss coins from here while esteemed officials knelt below, scrambling to pick them up. Even imagining that scene feels incredibly lively.

The Qujiang River weaves the garden's buildings together. The graceful waterside viewing platforms let you sense the prosperity of the Tang through the water. The original Tang Paradise was actually seven times larger than today; the high-rises in the distance once belonged to the garden.

Sitting beneath Ziyun Tower, gazing up at the blue sky, I lost myself in the lavish lives of Tang emperors and nobles. Just this one garden is enough to show the heights of our architectural achievements at that time.

When you visit a city, you not only enjoy its scenic spots but also feel its human touch. Behind every city's founding and stories, there are museums that tell their tales. For Xi'an's history, the first stop has to be the Shaanxi History Museum.

The Shaanxi History Museum is a legendary institution, ranking alongside the Palace Museum and Nanjing Museum as one of China's top three museums. If you're fascinated by the history and culture of the ancient capital of thirteen dynasties, make this your first stop. It's easily accessible, offers a limited number of free daily tickets with just your ID, and was totally worth it—I felt it was incredible value.

With decades of history, it traces back to the Shaanxi Provincial History Museum founded in 1944. Now a national first-class museum, it's also China's first large modern museum, with an extraordinarily rich collection.

As a national AAAA scenic spot, the museum covers everything from prehistoric times to the modern era, spanning millions of years. The Shaanxi Ancient Civilization exhibition is a highlight, divided into three halls and seven sections, showcasing nearly 3,000 exquisite artifacts, including recent major archaeological finds.

The Bronze Charm section covers from the late Xia Dynasty to the Warring States period—thousands of years during which our ancestors crafted countless stunning bronzes, reflecting the finest casting techniques of their time.

Gold, silver, and jade dazzle the eyes. Xi'an was the ancient capital for more dynasties than any other, and many imperial tombs are here. The elites accumulated vast wealth in life and took their most treasured pieces into the grave. The museum has thousands of registered gold, silver, and jade items that hold an important place in the collection.

Pottery figurines showcase the Qin Dynasty's artifacts and folk customs. The museum also has some terracotta warriors, but to see the true spectacle you have to visit the Terracotta Army itself.

In Xi'an, pagodas are everywhere—famous or obscure, you'll spot one almost every time you turn a corner. The most famous is undoubtedly the Giant Wild Goose Pagoda. As the landmark of the ancient capital, it is the largest surviving Tang brick pagoda.

They say you haven't been to Xi'an without visiting the Giant Wild Goose Pagoda. It's undeniably symbolic, even appearing on the city's emblem. To talk about the pagoda, you must start with Da Ci'en Temple.

Da Ci'en Temple was built in the 22nd year of Emperor Taizong's Zhenguan reign. Crown Prince Li Zhi founded it to honor his mother, Empress Wende. Over 1,350 years old, it was the most famous and magnificent Buddhist temple in Chang'an at the time. The monk Xuanzang served as abbot here, spreading Buddhism and founding the Faxiang school, one of the eight major schools of Chinese Buddhism. So the temple holds a vital place in Chinese Buddhist history and remains a sacred site for devotees worldwide.

When first built, the temple covered half of the Jinchang neighborhood with 13 courtyards and 1,897 rooms—truly magnificent. Today's temple is built on the original West Pagoda Courtyard; the rest has long vanished. Facing south, the Giant Wild Goose Pagoda stands behind the main hall.

Speaking of which, you can't mention the pagoda without talking about Master Xuanzang, the eminent Tang monk and founder of the Faxiang school, honored as 'Tripitaka Master.' To resolve discrepancies in Buddhist teachings, he set out from Chang'an in the first year of Zhenguan, traveling 25,000 kilometers westward along the Silk Road alone, overcoming incredible hardships to reach Nalanda, the center of Buddhist learning in India. He returned with scriptures, Buddha relics, and spent the rest of his life translating and spreading the Dharma. He is celebrated globally as an outstanding envoy of cultural exchange. Inside the pagoda, there's even a room dedicated to the story of his journey to the West.

Since this is an RV trip to Xi'an, barbecue is a must—it's the perfect match for RV road trips. At night, grilling skewers with friends and sharing heartfelt talks was simply blissful. Doing it ourselves, cooking and eating together, felt incredibly cozy.

We had four or five RVs. As the name suggests, an RV is a home on wheels. Since road trips became possible again this year, RV travel has surged in popularity. You don't have to worry about the elements—your RV is your home on the journey.

When in Xi'an, the Terracotta Warriors are the biggest draw. Some jokingly call them Qin Shi Huang's giant figurines—a kind of adorable image. Seven years ago, I visited here and still have faint memories. Returning now, I'm rediscovering them.

The Terracotta Army, also known as the Qin Terracotta Warriors, is among China's first World Heritage sites. They are a form of funerary sculpture. In ancient times, slaves were buried alive with their masters. Eventually, pottery figurines of soldiers and horses replaced human sacrifices. Before entering, you can first see fully excavated warrior and horse figures in the museum.

This view is familiar to many: Pit 1, the most famous, acclaimed as the 'Eighth Wonder of the World.' Over 200 foreign heads of state and government have visited. It's a golden calling card for China's ancient civilization and one of the world's top ten rare tombs.

Pit 1 is the most intact, showing the expressions and details of many warriors clearly. At its eastern end stand 210 warriors in battle tunics. Behind them, 204 warriors form the rear guard in rows of 68. In the center, 38 columns of chariots and infantry make up the main force.

Some figures are incredibly well-preserved, with hair, ears, eyebrows, and noses all vividly rendered. The most amazing thing: among thousands of warriors, every single face is unique. I'm utterly impressed.

In ancient times, live burials were a brutal practice. By the Warring States period, the system crumbled, and in the Qin state in 384 BC it was officially abolished. The Terracotta Warriors mark a huge step forward for humanity.

Excavation and restoration are still ongoing. It's said that only one-tenth of the warriors have been unearthed. If they all came to light, the scene would be unimaginably grand.

As the saying goes, you haven't been to Xi'an without seeing the Terracotta Warriors. During peak tourist season, there are more visitors than warriors. The crowds outside lining up are immense, while inside the sheer number of figures is overwhelming. Thousands of living people gazing at thousands of clay ones—a truly amusing sight. Many strain and squeeze to the front just for a glimpse and a photo.

The End

Comparing to my visit seven years ago, Xi'an has changed dramatically, yet in the long river of time, it hasn't changed that much. Xi'an, an ancient capital with too much history, one of China's most historically charming cities—so many are captivated by it.