Marathon Travelogue No. 10 ~ Running Freely Through the River of History: Recounting the “Belt and Road” Shaanxi Xi’an (Samsung) · 2020 City Wall International Marathon

A square city, once the ancient capital of thirteen Chinese dynasties. Its most distinctive feature is the complete ancient city wall still standing – tall and broad, embracing the square city for a circumference of 13.7 kilometers.

Built in the Ming Dynasty and enduring for 650 years, its eighteen grand gates connect the city with the outside world, bustling with traffic.

She is ancient and profound, mysterious and romantic. The Silk Road stretches thousands of miles, starting from Chang’an in the east and reaching Rome in the west, soaked in historical glory and glistening with modern brilliance. She is the brightest pearl in the river of history. This is my city – beautiful Great Xi’an.

Running fast is one of the oldest and most fundamental human movements. In remote antiquity, only those who ran fast and long enough could chase down more prey and win battles – the core principle of survival.

Today, on this circular ancient city wall, a magnificent show blending ancient and modern, East and West, will be staged – the Xi’an City Wall Marathon (or ‘City Wall Marathon’ for short).

The long-distance run from ancient Greece’s Marathon in 490 BC has evolved into an international sport shared by East and West. Running on the ancient city wall is modernity saluting history, a city’s finest tribute to the Olympic spirit.

At 8:30 a.m. on October 24, the launch ceremony for the ‘I Want to Join the National Games’ 100-marathon series and the ‘Belt and Road’ Shaanxi Xi’an (Samsung) · 2020 City Wall International Marathon kicked off with great enthusiasm. Over 4,000 marathon enthusiasts of all ages and genders ran along Xi’an’s ancient city wall, marking the official start of the ‘I Want to Join the National Games’ 100-marathon event series.

My friend Dafang and I, authentic ‘leng wa’ (local lads) of Shaanxi, were privileged to be two of those 4,000.

Although we have climbed Xi’an’s ancient city wall countless times, today we felt exceptionally excited.

In 2019, the Shaanxi Xi’an (Samsung) City Wall International Marathon was rated a ‘Bronze Event’ and ‘Most Beautiful Course Featured Event’ by the Chinese Athletics Association.

This year’s City Wall Marathon is especially meaningful – it’s the first road running event after our country triumphed over the pandemic. With themes of ‘National Games for All, Together We Walk’ and ‘Meet in Xi’an, Build Dreams for the Games,’ it showcases the charm and hope of the ancient city on my city’s most beautiful ancient wall.

It’s definitely worth running here at least once, isn’t it?

However, participating is tough – you have to draw a lottery for a spot, and the chance of winning is extremely low, getting lower year by year. Often you sign up full of hope, only to be easily rejected.

Thanks to our sponsor friend, we got two slots. Dafang said it feels great to have friends.

As soon as Dafang collected his race uniform and tried it on right there, he was like a little kid and didn’t want to take it off.

You can parade around town in the race gear, or lounge at home in it, no problem. But you can’t just wear it to work, right?

The biggest problem was solved, but another surfaced.

The official website said the cutoff time for the 13.7km loop around the wall was 90 minutes.

Who made this rule without considering people’s actual conditions?

This meant I’d have to maintain a pace of 6:30 per kilometer for all 13km. But I had stopped running for three months; at that pace, I could only last five kilometers at most. What was I to do?

From the moment I got the slot, my heart was thumping in anxiety. Dafang thumped my head like a big drum and lectured me: ‘This is the serious consequence of stopping running for three months. Today you’ll taste what laziness brings.’

Even at dinner I wasn’t in the mood for playful banter. My mind was full of scheming thoughts, wondering which temple to visit and which Bodhisattva to beg for the energy I’d need to finish on time.

It coincided with the ‘Frost’s Descent’ solar term, and I truly felt the chill of the season. The worry was overwhelming; just off the brow, yet weighing heavy on the heart.

My phone was ringing nonstop, but did I have any heart to check it?

Could it be that I’d only gaze at the wall and sigh about the marathon I’d dreamed of? Watching all those swift runners disappear into the dust?

Suddenly, Dafang shouted: ‘Dear, there’s a rule change – the cutoff time for the 13.7km has been adjusted to 120 minutes!’

Hahaha, so this is the legendary ‘dark willows and bright blossoms’ moment…?!

Brows relaxed, heart at ease – I can gleefully run the marathon and drink little Langjiu liquor.

In the season of chrysanthemum fragrance and crab roe, everything is as one wishes!

So the organizers can be this thoughtful too, whoopee!

Change into race gear, get ready to go.

Flash a victory sign at the starting line.

Early in the morning, we dressed as the city’s most distinguished guests, entering Xi’an through the South Gate, Yongning Gate. With Dafang, we measured the four sides of the wall with our steps. At the south, we peeked at the bustling Vermilion Bird Morning Market from the Zhuque Gate. At Yuxiang Gate, we gazed into the distance at the most resplendent Tibetan Buddhist temple inside the city – Guangren Temple. Outside the north’s Anyuan Gate is a straight, broad boulevard, Xi’an’s central axis – Weiyang Avenue. To the east is a social-media hotspot, Yongxing Fang, where you down a bowl of wine in one gulp and boldly smash the bowl – Bowl-Smashing Wine draws countless Chinese to test their bravado. After this loop, we’ll drink and smash.

Start running! Zoom zoom, I easily pass the 2:45 pace bunny, taking a photo as a souvenir.

Back home, I chatted with the old man about the City Wall Marathon. He had run the very first edition in 1993. Back then the registration fee was 10 yuan, no lottery, first come first served. Over twenty years ago, he was also a sports enthusiast.

I said now the fee is over a hundred and there’s a lottery, about a 1-in-10 chance – not everyone can run.

To paraphrase a song: ‘Love isn’t something you can buy just because you want to…’ – the City Wall Marathon isn’t something you can run just because you want to. You must win the lottery. Once again, thanks to our Samsung sponsor friend!

Thanks to Dafang for running with me! You looked so handsome when running!

Since 2016, the City Wall Marathon pioneered the ‘Thirteen Dynasties’ event brand, creating a series of thirteen dynasty-themed medals. This year’s event enters the ‘Eastern Han Dynasty’ era; the 2020 finisher’s medal incorporates Eastern Han bronze mirror patterns and city wall elements, making it commemorative, ornamental, and collectible.

Smoothly finished, time to show off a bit: Jiang Liangqi: Congratulations on completing the 2020 Xi’an City Wall International Marathon! Your finish time: 01:36:10.

Holding the medal, I admired the Eastern Han copper mirror and ancient city wall designs. It was as if the Eastern Han mirror reflected my delight—joy on my brow, happiness in my heart.

Today I contributed a tiny effort to our 14th National Games. Let’s ‘Meet in Xi’an, Build Dreams for the Games’ together.

Thanks to all the hardworking staff who made the Xi’an City Wall Marathon possible.

Today, I especially want to pay tribute to the sports enthusiast in my family. He was a participant of the first City Wall Marathon and loves his city even more – a love deeper and more enduring than ours.

Today, I also want to salute the angels in white fighting on the pandemic battlefield. You charged forward like ancient Greek warriors, sparing no cost, even your most precious lives, and brought us the triumphant news of pandemic victory!

It is because of you that we can run freely today – run freely through the river of history.

(2020.10.24)