Tie Wudang and Ye Hua Mountain in Qinling Zhongnan Mountains: Dreamy Snowscapes and a Haven for Spiritual Seekers, Yet the Summit Eludes Most
Xi’an has only had one snowfall since winter began this year. They say Xi’an turns back into Chang’an when it snows, but many people barely got a chance to enjoy the snowy scenery before it all melted. Meanwhile, the Qinling Zhongnan Mountains have already seen several snowfalls—some valleys have even been hit with five or six rounds of snow.
After a snowfall in the Qinling range, lots of people head into the mountains, either driving themselves or hiking in, to take in the winter views. Some go to Jinxian Temple in Ziwu Valley, others to Dongling in Tianzi Valley, Jiawutai in Baidao Valley, Rentou Mountain in Chepao Valley, Zige Peak in Zige Valley, the ice waterfall in Baolong Valley, and some even drive all the way to Fengyukou Watershed or the Languan Ancient Road. They all come searching for the most beautiful snowscapes, to play in and admire the snow.
Some visitors get lucky, arriving while there’s still snow, even really picturesque snow. Others show up and find the stunning winter views already gone, the snow completely vanished. The truth is, not every valley in the Qinling Mountains has snow, and not all of them offer truly beautiful snowy scenes.
I’ve been to most of the 72 valleys in the Qinling range, and my overall feeling is that the snowscapes at Tai Xing Mountain in Ku Valley are the most dreamlike. It’s not too far from Xi’an, the scenery and the snow are gorgeous, and there are plenty of temples and Taoist abbeys, making it easier to run into hermits and spiritual practitioners.
Tai Xing Mountain in Ku Valley sits in Yangzhuang Subdistrict, Chang’an District, Xi’an, about 40 kilometers from the city center. It’s currently free to enter, with mountains and streams, waterfalls, Buddhist temples, and Taoist sanctuaries. The landscape is beautiful and exceptionally tranquil, with very little commercial development, and the natural environment is well protected. In other valleys, you might feel lucky to come across a dozen or so temples, but Tai Xing Mountain has a total of 72 from base to summit, known as the 72 Tangfang.
Zhongnan is crowned as the ultimate place for spiritual practice, and for living in seclusion and cultivation within the Zhongnan Mountains, Tai Xing Mountain takes first place. Temples, caves, and thatched huts here are home to a large number of recluses, lay Buddhists, monks, Taoist priests, and other mountain dwellers and practitioners. Every time I go out for a walk, climb the mountain, or go down to buy supplies, I run into them. We sit down for tea and chats. When I ask why they chose to live in seclusion here, most say the mountains are good, the water is good, and the people are good. They also mention the strong energy field here, which helps with spiritual cultivation.
Tai Xing Mountain has two other names: Ye Hua Mountain and Tie Wudang. Ye Hua Mountain points to its sheer steepness. The highest peak is called the First Peak of Zhongnan, soaring over 2,300 meters—taller than Huashan. Over the final hundred-plus meters, many don’t dare take on the challenge. The name Tie Wudang comes from the story that Zhenwu Dadi cultivated himself here for over ten years before attaining enlightenment and later moving on to Wudang Mountain. Because there’s an iron temple on the summit, it’s called Tie Wudang, making it a sacred Taoist site.
Since winter began, it has already snowed here five times. When it snows, snow blankets everything from the valley entrance right up to the mountaintop, while outside the valley mouth there is none—really something magical. Even after a snowfall, once the snow in the valley entrance has melted, the snow from the base of Tai Xing Mountain to the summit is stubbornly resistant to melting. With temperatures so low this year, plummeting to minus ten or twenty degrees Celsius after snow, one hermit practitioner here said snow this stubborn won’t melt until spring arrives.
To enjoy the snow at Tai Xing Mountain in Ku Valley, you can drive in, take a shuttle bus from the valley entrance, or walk in. For safety, when heavy snow makes the roads slippery, cars are often prohibited, and you can walk in from the valley mouth to enjoy the mountain snow. Normally, walking at a good pace from the valley entrance to the base of Tai Xing Mountain and back takes about four hours round trip on a clear day, and about six hours when there’s snow. Climbing from the mountain base to the iron temple at the summit takes about six hours round trip in clear weather, and around ten hours in snowy conditions. However, after snowfall, most people simply can’t reach the top due to the extreme steepness and danger.
For non-professional hikers, when it’s snowing, I suggest climbing just up to the ice waterfall and the Southern Heavenly Gate of Tai Xing Mountain. Along the way, there are many temples and Taoist abbeys you can visit; you can also sit down for tea and conversation with the Taoist masters or monks inside. If you’re lucky, you might even encounter a hermit living in a cave.
In the depths of winter, with heavy snow making the paths slippery and temperatures dropping as low as minus 20 degrees, many of the recluses and practitioners who live in the temples, abbeys, and caves temporarily move out of the mountains. I was pretty fortunate. The last time I took some online friends hiking to see the snow, we were greeted by dreamy snow scenes straight out of Frozen, making everyone exclaim they’d stepped into a heavenly realm or a fairy tale world. We also met a female lay Buddhist practitioner living on the mountain, and a hermit who was helping villagers clear snow. He lived alone in a cave, yet even with such freezing winter temperatures and heavy snow, he was wearing shorts and a t-shirt—truly remarkable. We not only had a brief chat on the path, but also sat down together for tea, listening to them share stories and insights from their life in seclusion and practice. That was a great joy in itself.
If you’re heading to Tai Xing Mountain in Ku Valley to hike, enjoy the snow, and seek out recluses, I strongly recommend wearing hiking boots, carrying crampons, and bringing a trekking pole. For areas you’re unfamiliar with, know your own limits and don’t push forward recklessly. Safety comes first when hiking to admire snow—don’t make trouble for yourself or cause problems for others.
Practical information: Tai Xing Mountain is in Yangzhuang Subdistrict, Chang’an District, Xi’an. If you’re driving, you can navigate by searching for “Tai Xing Mountain.” By public bus, take route 735 and get off at Kuyukou stop.
I live full-time in the Qinling Zhongnan Mountains, where I have a small courtyard home. I’m passionate about outdoor adventures, travel, and food, climbing mountains to seek out recluses, inquire about the Way, and pay respects to the Buddha. I love sharing tea and conversation with Zhongnan hermits and practitioners. If this resonates with you, follow me. Let’s go on outdoor trips together, experience mountain life, seek recluses, ask about the Way, visit temples, and embrace a wider world.
