18-Day Self-Guided Tour of Xi'an, Luoyang, Yuntai Mountain, and Kaifeng in Autumn

Total expenses for two people: ¥8k = homestays 3k + flights & high-speed train 1k + long-distance buses 1k + food 2k + entrance fees 1k

Over 18 days: 6 nights in Xi'an, 5 nights in Luoyang, 3 nights at Yuntai Mountain, 3 nights in Kaifeng

Day 1: Friday, October 9, 2020

Departed at 8:20 am, took a fast taxi ¥182, 61 km. Arrived at Beijing Daxing International Airport at 9:10 am. Self-service boarding pass, checked one suitcase. First time at Daxing Airport, designed by Iraqi architect Zaha Hadid – the octopus-like architecture is quite stylish.

《Boarding》1: The orange fish octopus alights on Daxing; curves gently reflected against the sky screen. Rocs rise and descend, linking the four seas; while all continents are overcast, here alone it's clear.

Boarded at 11:20, doors closed at 12:00. China Eastern MU2256, code-shared with China Southern and Xiamen Airlines. Aircraft: A330, twin-aisle, 2+4+2 seating, capacity about 300. Load factor 95%, ticket ¥350/person. Departed 12:20, arrived Xianyang Airport at 14:00. Exiting the airport required scanning the Xi'an health QR code via WeChat on mobile. At 15:00 took airport bus ¥25/person, arrived Xi'an North Railway Station (high-speed) at 15:40; transferred to Metro Line 2, got off at Anyuanmen Station. By 16:30 reached Beishaomen Gongyuan Meiyu in the north.

Along the streets, the whole Weiyang Road had many spots dug up for sidewalk repairs, making the city look untidy. Checked into an apartment-style managed homestay, 20th floor, electronic door lock, password sent by the manager via WeChat. Floor area 45 m², usable area about 30 m². Xi'an metro and buses accept WeChat mini-program transit QR code for payment.

Booked tickets online for the Qin Shi Huang Emperor Museum – Terracotta Warriors for Saturday, Oct 10. Entry divided into time slots: 8:30–10:30 and 10:30–12:00. Standard ticket ¥120/person, half price for seniors over 65 and students. Online showed over 5,000 remaining tickets for that day, and over 6,000 for the next day – a sign of fewer visitors.

Walked out, 800 m north to a commercial building, 4th floor. Food court at 17:30: one portion of saozi noodles (6 small bowls) ¥23, a plate of 3 roujiamo ¥18, a dish of asparagus mushrooms ¥19, total ¥60. Enough for two.

Took bus 37 south for 5 stops, ¥1/person, got off at Bell Tower North Station at 18:30. Walked west into Huimin Street to see the night view and the old residential area. Alleyways in the old city are narrow, only one car wide, somewhat dilapidated. Maybe because they're not main roads, the government has been unable to demolish the old houses. Walked back to Anyuanmen by 19:50, took bus 228 two stops to Beishaomen.

《Qin》2: Xianyang, Weiyang, threading the Bell Tower; Anyuan's high walls span a thousand autumns. Halal lamps glow, crowds bustle; mutton paomo's aroma never ends.

Day 2: Saturday, October 10, 2020

Woke at 6:30, left apartment at 7:40. Metros Line 2 then Line 1 to Fangzhicheng Station ¥4/person. 8:45 transferred to tourist bus 5 (also numbered 306) ¥5/person, 1-hour ride, arrived at the Terracotta Warriors – Qin Shi Huang Mausoleum Museum at 9:45. Visited Pit 1 at 10:10, Pit 2 at 10:55, Pit 3 at 11:15, Bronze Chariot Hall at 11:50, left museum at 12:05.

Took free shuttle bus (included in ticket) to Lishan Garden – the Qin Shi Huang tomb site. Entered at 13:00, met a free guide No. 66, a northern man around 55, very detailed explanation.

《Imperial Tomb》: Ying Zheng's terracotta warriors span millennia; could the tiger-wolf bravery be passed down? Writing unified, axle widths standardized; peace under heaven was the hope.

The Qin tomb area originally belonged to Lintong County; after the discovery of the warriors, it was taken over by Xi'an city and became Lintong District. Now the tomb is directly managed by the state, revenue goes to the central government. The tomb area is 56 km². Surveys have revealed 619 burial pits underground, only a few have been excavated. Current archaeological technology cannot adequately protect unearthed relics from oxidation of colors, etc. The artificial mound's earth was brought from Handan, Henan, and had to be stir-fried; originally no plants could grow on it, and no animals lived there. The mound height was based on the emperor's age: one zhang per year of age. Qin Shi Huang died at 49.5, so the mound should be 50 zhang, roughly 115 meters in modern measures.

The terracotta warriors pit was discovered in 1976 by seven male villagers drilling a well. The well mouth was 5 meters in diameter, and a high-ranking officer's head was unearthed. Everyone was terrified, superstitiously believing they'd dug up the earth god. They rushed home and brought incense and flowers to worship at the well. That night, one villager delivered the head to the local county cultural center, which then reported to city and provincial heritage authorities.

That villager was credited with 40 work points, worth about 60 yuan. When he returned to the village, the villagers shunned him and his family because he had offended the earth god and would bring misfortune. Even his child was rejected by the teacher and couldn't attend school. He had to move out, living in a remote dilapidated hut. Not until a foreign president visited the warriors and asked to meet the villager did they find him. He was asked to sign; with only a second-grade education, he couldn't write well, so he drew a circle and put a thumbprint inside.

Later, an internal report reached the central government. The state organized further excavation, eventually discovering the terracotta pits.

Departed Lishan Garden at 14:20, returned the same way. Had hoped to visit Huaqing Pool that day, but gave it up due to time. The return bus took 1.5 hours to Fangzhicheng Station. 16:45 reached Chaoyangmen Station on Metro Line 1, walked to Yongxingfang Food Garden. Had rice noodle ¥12/bowl – not tasty. A plate of lamb dumplings, 26 pieces ¥48. At 18:30 walked to outside the Shaanxi Provincial Government Building. Took bus 238 four stops to Beishaomen, back at apartment by 19:30.

Used Amap to find tomorrow's destination Qianling, bought tickets online ¥95/person, ¥7 less than standard.

Day 3: Sunday, October 11, 2020, drizzle

Woke at 6:40, left at 7:40. Beishaomen Station, Anyuanmen Station, Metro Line 2 to Beidajie, transferred to Line 1, Hancheng Road Station, to Xi'an West Bus Station. Departed 8:45 on slow coach ¥22/person, arrived Qian County at 11:00, transferred to Qian bus 2 ¥1, to Qianling. Exchanged paper ticket at ticket office, shuttle bus ¥30/person for moving between sites. Hired a taxi to transport us.

12:00 Tang Zhanghuai Prince Tomb, 12:15 Qianling Museum, 13:30 Tang Yide Prince Tomb,

13:45 Qianling, left at 14:50.

《Qianling》3: Both Tang Taizong and Gaozong adored her; natural beauty, so endearing. All nations came to court under her rule; a wordless stele, passed down through ages.

Went to Qian County's high-speed bus station, but the earliest return bus to Xi'an was at 19:00. Returned to the slow bus station, departed at 16:00, arrived Xi'an West Bus Station at 18:10. Took Metro Line 1 to Beidajie, transferred to Line 2 to Bell Tower. Walked to Xiyangshi at 18:55, traversed the whole street but couldn't find a single restaurant serving stir-fried dishes. Had a bowl of biang biang noodles ¥28, liangfen ¥10. Back to Beishaomen apartment by 20:15.

Day 4: Monday, October 12, 2020

Woke at 7:30, breakfast in apartment. Left at 9:00, took bus 609 ¥1, arrived Qujiang Pool Heritage Park at 10:20. No entrance fee, no advance reservation needed. The cityscape in southern Xi'an is newer, neat and clean compared to the north, with fewer construction sites. Scenery is decent, the lake about the size of Yuyuantan. Visited Hanyao Ruins, Wang Baochuan's former residence?

Left Chongyang Square at 13:10, took bus 609, got off east of Big Wild Goose Pagoda. Strolled around the green spaces of Daci'en Temple, viewed the pagoda.

Departed at 14:00, bus 609 back to apartment. Rested 15:15–16:15. Bought 100ml Erguotou 56% liquor ¥7 at roadside convenience store. Went to Haidilao Hot Pot on 3F of Longshou Impression City ¥234. Finished at 18:15. Took Metros Line 2 → Line 1 → Line 4, arrived at Tang Paradise 5A scenic spot at 19:00. Free entry with online reservation for the 19:00–21:00 slot. Climbed a tower for views – beautiful.

《Night》4: Tang lotus in truly national colors; jeweled pagoda exquisite under the nightless sky. Rainbow-feathered dresses thread among purple willows; lotus pond waters reflect tower lights.

Xi'an is notably lacking in home-style cooking or Sichuan restaurants – places with stir-fried dishes – most are noodle shops.

Day 5: Tuesday, October 13, 2020, drizzle

Woke at 6:30, breakfast: Xi'an pastries and instant coffee. Left apartment 7:30. Metro Line 2 Anyuanmen, transfer Beidajie to Line 1, Fangzhicheng Station ¥4/person, then tourist bus 5 (603). Arrived Huaqing Palace at 9:15.

Raining, shoes soaked through soon after leaving. Had to take off socks and go barefoot. Ventilated hiking shoes are no good in rainy season. Surprisingly, October in Xi'an turns out to be a rainy season, overcast and drizzly, unlike Beijing where autumn rain, even if it rains, doesn't last a whole week of continuous light rain.

10:25 Bingjian Pavilion, 11:15 Laomu Palace, 12:00 Shangshan Pool, 12:20 Beacon Tower. Descended from the southwest face, not retracing the ascent path. 12:50 Huxiao Bridge, 13:00 Liju Pavilion, 13:05 Shiweng Temple, 13:10 Spring Maiden Prayer (Sheshen Cliff), 13:20 Yuxian Dan Bridge, 13:37 Riyue Pavilion, 13:40 Bingjian Pavilion again, 14:00 Haitang Tang, Lianhua Tang, Xingchen Tang. Left Huaqing Palace at 14:35.

《Huaqing Palace》5:

In drizzle I climb steps on blurry Lishan; forests seek secrets deep. Stone tells of the startling coup by troops; concubine's bath, skin like jade.

To overlook a thousand miles on beacon heights; tiger's roar, stone urn, mist thick. Searching ancient Chang'an for old haunts; Taibai, Wei River, northwest wind.

14:50 took tourist bus 5 (603) ¥3, back to Fangzhicheng Line 1, then Line 2 to Longshou Station. Dinner at Impression City Meizhou Dongpo Restaurant ¥179: braised large yellow croaker, meat with sharp pepper, sweet potato leaves, 3 bowls of rice.

Ctrip: Homestay booking confirmed! Host has confirmed your order. Total ¥795, stay dates: October 15–20, 2020 / 5 nights. Baolong City Plaza Block G, Nuanuan Xiaojia. Address: Intersection of Dingdingmen Street and Kaiyuan Avenue, Luolong District, Luoyang.

Day 6: Wednesday, October 14, 2020

Woke at 9:00, breakfast. Went to Daming Palace Heritage Park, entered at 11:00. Free; a central section charges ¥60/person, the surrounding park is free. Left garden at 13:50, rested at apartment.

Woke at 17:00, walked to a residential area on Longshou South Road: mutton paomo ¥35/bowl + cold vegetable platter ¥12.

Day 7: Thursday, October 15, 2020

Woke at 7:00, breakfast. Left apartment at 9:00. Metro Line 2 ¥3/person, arrived Xi'an North Station at 9:45. 10:15 G656 high-speed train ¥175/person second class, arrived Luoyang Longmen Station at 11:40.

Took bus 75 to Baolong Plaza, Block G Room 2016, ¥159/night, staying 5 nights. Floor area 45 m², feels spacious, double bed better than Xi'an’s apartment, with internet TV. Went to Sheng Luoba Seafood BBQ Buffet ¥72/person, ate 13:15–15:00, was quite busy.

Returned to apartment for afternoon rest. Went out at 17:10, bus 75 ¥1/person to Sui-Tang Relic City Botanical Garden. Reached the Luo River at 19:00. 19:35 took bus 37, 10 stops, back to apartment.

Day 8: Friday, October 16, 2020, cloudy

Woke at 7:00, breakfast at small diner at 8:00: hulatang ¥6/bowl, scallion pancake ¥4/serving. 8:45 took bus 99 ¥1.5/person to Longmen Grottoes, ticket ¥90/person, but free over 60. Estimated visitors ~1,000, about half retired.

Walked to Xiangshan Temple at 11:45; 12:15 to Bai Garden (Bai Juyi's Tomb).

Bought flower cakes, left park at 14:00, bus 99 back. After nap, 17:00 to Sichuan Restaurant: steamed sea bass ¥50, celery with cured pork ¥38, garlic baby bok choy ¥13, rice ¥2/bowl × 2. Prices lower than Xi'an.

After dinner at 19:00, took bus to Laoji, got off at Xilimen at 19:30. Walked the pedestrian street, many people mainly selling food, all seemed local. Old city residential buildings very old, mostly 5–7 floors, no elevator. 20:20 took bus 76 ¥1/person back to Baolong Plaza Block G.

Day 9: Saturday, October 17, 2020

9:05 took bus 58 ¥1.5/person, arrived White Horse Temple at 10:20. Seniors free entry.

12:00 exited White Horse Temple to Myanmar-style temple scenic area.

13:00 took bus 16 to a valley, 13:30 returned from White Horse Temple by bus, arrived apartment at 14:30. Rested until 17:00, went to Laojia Water Banquet: ate yancai, 3 dishes total ¥108.

Day 10: Sunday, October 18, 2020

9:00 took bus 37, 9:30 arrived Luoyang Museum, free. Left at 13:10.

Took bus 37 to Wangcheng Park, entered at 13:50, finished at 14:40.

Bus 99 back to Baolong Plaza.

17:50 Youxiang Restaurant, intended Hangzhou cuisine, but ended up Henan-ized, mainly salty. Restaurant ambiance and fittings nice. 3 dishes, ¥125.

Day 11: Monday, October 19, 2020

Took bus 4 stops, arrived Guanlin at 10:00 – Guan Yu's head burial site, free entry. Nothing special. Left at 10:45.

Went to China National Flower Garden, i.e., Peony Garden, arrived 11:40. The garden is huge, east-west gates about 2 km, mainly peonies. Almost no visitors. Pleasant environment. Left at 12:30.

Went to Lijingmen West Street, bought peony flower cakes ¥25/jin (bought 2 jin). Had a bowl of bufantang ¥20 (with beef; vegetarian ¥10). Wouldn't eat it a second time.

Day 12: Tuesday, October 20, 2020, overcast

Left apartment at 8:15, took bus 909 ¥2/person to Luoyang Bus Station. Took Luoyang–Jiaozuo coach ¥38/person. Amap suggested taking a bus to Wuzhi County, but I figured fewer tourists transfer there, so bought to Jiaozuo. Later proved right: from Wuzhi to Yuntai Mountain is an extra 15 km. Departed Luoyang 10:30, 130 km, arrived Jiaozuo Bus Station at 12:45. Direct tourist minibus to Yuntai Mountain ¥20/person, but few tourists meant long wait. Took a taxi instead, 36 km, ¥80 chartered; if shared 4 people would be ¥20/person. Arrived at Yuntai Mountain scenic entrance, Anshang village. Homestay twin room ¥160/night, bargained to ¥120/night, 3 nights.

Lunch: Mu xu rou ¥38 + eggplant & beans ¥35 + rice ¥3×2 = ¥79 for two. At the park gate, showed ID – free entry for over 60 (ticketing system online, scan ID upon entry); bought sightseeing bus ticket ¥60/person. Took park bus to Hongshi Canyon, entered at 15:20. Maybe 100 people inside? Not many but a bit noisy; some people shouting, park loudspeakers constantly blaring announcements – either visitor notices or introductions, too noisy. Visibility about 3 km, air pollution index 130. Exited canyon 16:30, bus back to homestay.

Had planned to visit Youshan Temple, but it closes at 17:00, maybe tomorrow or the next day.

Day 13: Wednesday, October 21, 2020, sunny with light haze, 21°C to 8°C

Woke at 7:00, breakfast outside: baozi, youtiao, millet porridge, soy milk ¥12 + bufantang egg yam cake ¥6.

8:15 took park bus to Yunxi Valley, arrived 8:35. Xiaozhaigou ticket check, included: 8:45 Quanpu Gorge – we went early, only 4 visitors in the gorge when we entered; more when we left. 11:15 Tanpu Gorge, 12:45 Mihou Gorge, 13:10 descended. Returned to homestay for rest.

15:10 left, took bus to Wanshan Temple, arrived 15:20. Descended at 16:20.

Dinner: Henan huimian, wide noodles in clear soup, mutton huimian ¥18/bowl, beef huimian ¥15/bowl, small side dish ¥10.

Booked on Ctrip: homestay apartment for 3 nights, Oct 23–26, ¥105/night, 60 m², with washing machine, can cook. Location: west side of Qingming Riverside Landscape Garden, very close.

Day 14: Thursday, October 22, 2020, sunny, haze pollution index 125, air not clear

Woke at 6:45, went out for photographs. Breakfast at restaurant ¥16: doufunao, soy milk, baozi. 7:40 took park bus, arrived at Zhuyu Peak ticket check at 8:20. Climbed Zhuyu Peak, reached summit (elevation 1,279 m) at 9:15. Descended, reached Glass Skywalk at 10:50, upper cable car station, level with ticket check. Visitor density in the mountain was sparse, pleasant for touring. Asked a staff member: most tourists only stay 1 night, a few 2 nights; often visitors don't climb Zhuyu Peak, just glance and leave. Exited ticket check at 11:40, took bus down at 12:00, arrived Anshang service area at 12:40, back to homestay for rest.