Serene Ancient Temple, Millennia-Old Bell: A Dreamy Journey Through the Ancient City

Xi'an, a city that served as the capital for thirteen dynasties, is steeped in history and culture. Boosted by the recent TV sensations 'Nothing Gold Can Stay' and 'White Deer Plain', both filmed here, this ancient city has shot to the top of everyone's travel list.

"Riding high on success, one could see all the flowers of Chang'an in a single day" – that line perfectly captures the essence of my trip. My evening flight at 8:30pm was delayed twice, and I finally landed in Xi'an and checked into the hotel at three in the morning. The city at that hour had an indescribable beauty. The legendary Great Tang All Day Mall truly lived up to its reputation; looking down from above, the city was ablaze with dazzling lights and bustling prosperity, giving even a first-time visitor like me an overwhelming sense of familiarity and warmth.

I spent five days in Xi'an, though the arrival and departure days book-ended the trip, leaving me three full days for sightseeing. In that short time, I immersed myself in the Zhou Dynasty evoked in the Book of Songs, the styles of the Spring and Autumn and Warring States periods, as well as the cultures of Qin and Tang. The brevity of the itinerary only emphasized the weight of history.

Day 1: Flew from Nanjing to Xi'an – checked into Xi'an Zhonglou Sunde Hotel.

Day 2: Explored Han City Lake, Shaanxi History Museum, and Great Tang All Day Mall.

Day 3: Visited Shi Jing Li (Book of Songs Town), Small Wild Goose Pagoda (Xi'an Museum), Gao Family Courtyard, and the ancient city wall.

Day 4: Toured the Terracotta Warriors, Qin Emperor Grand Theatre, and Huaqing Palace.

Xi'an Zhonglou Sunde Hotel

Location-wise, the hotel couldn't be better – right on the northeast corner of the Bell Tower, next to West Street. The advantage is undeniable. Both the hotel building and the Bell Tower are heritage structures. Subway and bus stops are just steps away, and in the evening, it's a short walk to the Muslim Quarter and Kaiyuan International Mall – truly delightful. Before arriving, I read online that the hotel was under renovation, but after a phone call, I learned construction finished in June, so I could rest easy.

Take Metro Line 2 to Zhonglou Station, and you step right out at the hotel.

I must mention Xiao Pang at the front desk – exceptionally warm. Check-in was lightning-fast, and the receptionist, gentle and attentive, immediately called for staff to help with my luggage as soon as she saw me struggling.

The hotel's décor is refined and luxurious, with real character. It might not be five-star, but it far surpasses the average business hotel. The rooms are spacious, the beds comfortable, ensuring a perfect rest. Room facilities are controlled by a cutting-edge smart system – TV, air conditioning, lights, curtains, background music, even service requests can be managed with voice commands. Toiletries are complete, and the shampoo smells subtly lovely.

Han City Lake

Originally known as Tuanjie Reservoir, or the ancient Caoyun opened channel, the lake spans 850 acres (about 57 hectares), with widths varying from 30 to 80 meters and depths of 4 to 6 meters. It's a unique ecological park combining flood control, landscape gardening, wetland ecosystems, heritage conservation, and urban agricultural irrigation. A towering 21.5-meter statue of Emperor Wu of Han stands here, symbolizing the 215 years of Western Han rule. The 7-meter pedestal represents him as the seventh Han emperor. Facing south, the statue shows him with a sword in one hand to secure the frontiers and spread benevolence among barbarians, and the other hand blessing all beings, advocating Confucianism throughout the land – epitomizing his great ambition to unify the empire. This is the largest statue of an emperor in China. The grandeur is immense.

Two Han Dynasty gate towers (que) rise from the lake: the Fengshan Shuangque, each 10.9 meters high, a highly significant architectural form in ancient China. There's also the southeast corner ruins of the Han Chang'an City Wall. Though we can't see its original splendor, walking by the vestiges is still evocative.

Before our boat even docked, I could see Windy Pavilion in the distance. Beneath it, a welcome ceremony in Han Dynasty style was staged, as though the emperor himself were arriving – quite spectacular. Han flags fluttered from the pavilion, each guarded by a reenactor, vividly recreating the atmosphere of those times.

Going down from the seventh floor, the fourth floor displays miniature models of Xi'an's famous landmarks, including the Big and Small Wild Goose Pagodas, various city gates, and palaces. Walking through here felt like touring countless scenic spots in Xi'an all at once.

Shaanxi History Museum

China's first large, modern national museum, a premier AAAA tourist attraction, praised as "a shining pearl of the ancient capital, a treasure house of Chinese civilization." Whenever I'm in a new city, I always head to its museum first – it's the best way to grasp its past. The Shaanxi History Museum is renowned nationwide, largely because Xi'an's long history straddles numerous dynasties, so unearthed artifacts are exceptionally abundant.

The museum has three exhibition halls arranged chronologically. Admission is free – just show your ID. It's closed on Mondays.

Here is the famous stone drum, its entire surface carved with characters, a rarity in Chinese history. There's a Qin Dynasty tiger-shaped tally (hufu), measuring 9.5 cm long, 4.4 cm high, 0.7 cm thick, depicting a walking tiger with head raised and tail curled. The splendid tri-colored glazed pottery of the Tang Dynasty, with bright and harmonious colors, represents the pinnacle of the art form. One set of pottery figurines portrays an emperor riding out with his officials – hundreds of figures, horses, and carriages, each with distinct expressions and postures, a testament to the potters' incredible craftsmanship. Given Buddhism's deep influence, many works here are rooted in Buddhist culture.

Great Tang All Day Mall

Located at the foot of the world-famous Big Wild Goose Pagoda in Qujiang New District, this is a key project for Shaanxi Province and Xi'an city. Using the culture of the flourishing Tang as its backdrop, Tang-style elements as the main thread, and experiential consumption as the draw, it creates a one-stop paradise for shopping, dining, entertainment, leisure, tourism, and business.

Down the center of the road, elaborate lantern displays, little bridges over flowing water, and statues of poets chanting verses form the various sections of the mall. Some statues are small, but others depict famous figures like Emperor Taizong and Xuanzang, showcasing the unparalleled glory of the Tang Dynasty. The sculptures are incredibly lifelike, drawing crowds of photo-takers – myself included.

At the end of the mall stands the Big Wild Goose Pagoda, itself a monument to Tang Dynasty filial piety. With over a thousand years of history, this rare surviving relic is now the backdrop for vibrant nightlife. I'd once watched the musical fountain here; now, returning to soak in the lively evening atmosphere felt wonderful.

After a short ten-minute walk, I saw the brilliantly lit Bell Tower. Back at the hotel, the sight of the tower glowing gorgeously at night was simply stunning. The rooftop terrace of Sunde Hotel offers a fantastic vantage point for night views, and I even bumped into a fellow hotel guest, a young woman dressed in Hanfu.

Shi Jing Li (Book of Songs Town)

China's first Book of Songs-themed town, it nestles on the banks of the Feng River in Xi'an. Every aspect draws its soul from the classic poetry, transforming all the scenery, folk traditions, music, and characters in the Book of Songs into tangible landscapes and architecture. There's Guofeng Square, Luming Food Street, Guanju Square, Xiaoya Book Club – a series of structures and views corresponding to and blended with the poems, plus grand shows of ritual music from the Book of Songs.

Besides charming little shops, the town is dotted with eateries. Northwesterners love their 'mo' (bread), so many courtyard gates feature these snacks. Here, the world seems to recapture its poetry.

The Chinese Guqin Museum insightfully explains the art of the guqin, from the choice of fine old wood for crafting the instrument to the playing techniques.

Xi'an Museum & Small Wild Goose Pagoda

Xi'an Museum combines a museum, scenic historic sites, and urban gardens. Opened in 2007, it is renowned for its precious artifacts, the thousand-year-old Tang pagoda, the melodious "Morning Bell of the Pagoda," and the graceful garden landscape. As a municipal museum, it differs somewhat from the Shaanxi History Museum; while it has many cultural relics, their artistry and historical value may not match, but its location is unbeatable. Adjacent to the Small Wild Goose Pagoda, the sense of history here is profound. Displays of Qin dynasty figurines and Tang sancai pottery, well-preserved and exquisitely crafted, still satisfy history buffs.

The Small Wild Goose Pagoda heritage area opened in 1980 and has since been enriched with exhibitions of Chang'an ancient music, hitching posts, and other folk items, blending with the pagoda and Jianfu Temple complex. There's much to explore, and you can even ring the bell for blessings – the "morning bell, evening drum" is represented by 1:1 replicas of the originals. A whole family can gather to toll the massive bell, its sound resonating far and wide.

Gao Family Courtyard & Muslim Quarter

Surviving centuries of change, Gao Family Courtyard is one of Xi'an's best-preserved Han residential compounds, nestled on the Muslim Quarter food street. The main buildings date from the Chongzhen reign of the Ming Dynasty, over 400 years ago. Laid out in three horizontal courtyards, all facing south, the 2,844-square-meter complex is a fine example of Qing-style brick-and-wood architecture. Here, you can enjoy Huayin Laoqiang (old arias) and shadow puppet plays – both invaluable intangible cultural heritage, well worth watching.

After the Laoqiang performance, venturing deeper into the courtyards led me to shadow puppetry, a show I'd long wanted to see. Despite my many trips to Xi'an, I'd never experienced it, leaving a gap I was now closing. Shadow puppetry, also called "shadow play," uses cut-out figures made of leather or paper to enact stories behind a translucent screen, with performers singing in local tunes and accompanied by percussion and string music, exuding rustic charm. The art varies widely across regions due to differing vocal styles.

Beyond the puppet theater, a costume exhibition hall showcases the fine embroidery and quality fabrics of garments for adults and children, of various specifications – reflecting the ancients' meticulous attention to every stitch. The antique buildings paired with bright red lanterns instantly created a sense of traveling back in time.

Xi'an City Wall Lantern Fair

Known as the Ming City Wall, Xi'an's rampart is the largest and best-preserved ancient city fortification in China. Standing 12 meters high, with widths of 12–14 meters at the top and 15–18 meters at the base, it forms a closed rectangle with a perimeter of 13.74 kilometers. The area inside is commonly called the old city district, covering 11.32 square kilometers, with the iconic Bell and Drum Towers at its heart. The lantern fair brings the wall to life with a hundred-meter stretch of brilliant lights, a vivid re-creation of a distinctly Xi'an folk celebration that enjoys international and domestic renown.

What makes it exceptional is its setting atop the original Ming Dynasty ramparts. To see the fair, you must pass through a gate and ascend the steps, walking on the bluestone bricks trodden since Ming and Qing times – an entirely different sensation. The combination of classical Chinese architecture and warm golden light is utterly captivating.

Emperor Qinshihuang's Mausoleum Site Museum (Terracotta Warriors)

What an imposing military formation from over two millennia ago! Armored warriors, armed to the teeth, stern and majestic, seemingly unstoppable. In an instant, you feel the distance of history collapse, a mysterious force pulling you into an ancient battlefield roaring with battle cries and chariot charges – truly "never seeing those before or after."

These pottery figures, when first unearthed, were said to be painted in color. But exposure to the air caused rapid oxidation, leaving only the unpainted clay figures we see today.

Huaqing Palace

Huaqing Palace was a royal retreat for Tang Dynasty emperors, later also known as Huaqing Pool, located in Lintong District, Xi'an. Together with the Summer Palace, Old Summer Palace, and Chengde Mountain Resort, it is counted among China's Four Great Imperial Gardens. At the entrance, a lion dance troupe welcomed visitors – one of the most beloved traditional street performances, and with the festive New Year spirit still in the air, I had the chance to enjoy it live.

Huaqing Palace's history is incredibly rich, from King You of Zhou fooling his vassals with beacon fires, to the love story of Emperor Xuanzong and Yang Guifei, to Empress Dowager Cixi's visits, and the modern-day Xi'an Incident. It has witnessed many pivotal moments, both glorious and tragic. The garden features rockeries, streams, and pavilions – far from a typical northwestern style, it feels more like the graceful Jiangnan region. There's even a bold sculpture, the earliest of its kind in China.

Over those three full days exploring Xi'an, some places were revisits, others entirely new encounters. Beneath the city wall, with lights twinkling and snowflakes drifting down, I found the reason I've loved Xi'an all these years. This ancient city, once Chang'an and yet no longer exactly Chang'an, truly grows more enchanting with time.