Footprints of the Soul — A Self-Drive Journey to Ngari

📍 Xi'an · 👁 7 reads · ❤️ 436 likes

— From Beijing to Ngari (Self-drive notes along National Highways 318, 219, 317 & 214)

We had been planning a road trip to Tibet since 2019, but it had to be put on hold due to the sudden outbreak of the pandemic... Finally, after much longing and silent prayers, the long-awaited D-Day arrived: July 8, 2021. With a rented Prado, under a not-too-sunny morning sky, my friend K and his wife, along with my own family, embarked on a journey we'd dreamed of for ages. Our destination: the roof of the roof, the Tibet of Tibet...

July 8 (Day 1)

Around 10 a.m., as agreed, both families set out leisurely from home (the main principle of our route planning was: no rushed travel, truly savor the joy of a free-spirited journey). The first few days were relatively compact because our ultimate goal was Tibet, and we didn't want to squander energy on the way. By dusk, we arrived in Qi County, Taiyuan, and checked into Qi County Mingyi Smart Hotel (114 yuan/night). After dinner, we hit the sack.

July 9 (Day 2)

After the hotel breakfast (hard to believe such a cheap hotel included breakfast — we almost felt guilty eating too much), we again set off after 10 a.m. The plan for today was to reach Hu County in Xi'an. In our planning, we deliberately avoided entering large or medium-sized cities, opting instead to stay on the outskirts to save the time of getting in and out. The journey was smooth, and we arrived safe and sound. We stayed at the Starway Hotel (Hu County Renmin Road branch, 164 yuan/night).

July 10 (Day 3)

Today we were entering Sichuan — the wives were bound to be thrilled, because Sichuan cuisine “abounds” there. My kid and I, however, were in trouble: we can't handle “extra spicy”.

After passing through the Qinling tunnels, near Liangxin Tunnel in Hanzhong, a truck had overturned, causing a five-hour traffic jam. To make matters worse, it started raining. We were lucky to be stuck inside the tunnel, but K and his wife were stuck outside, unable to get out of the car or even roll down the window much. It was past midnight when we finally reached Guangyuan. After dropping our luggage, we hurried out for a late supper. The friendly, plump girl at the front desk of Guangyuan Chunqiu International Hotel (168 yuan/night) recommended a restaurant called “Let the Duck Head Fly.” The century egg and lean pork congee there was uniquely made — different from the Cantonese morning tea version, but delicious and hearty.

July 11 (Day 4)

From Guangyuan to Ya'an. Ya'an sits at just over 600 meters above sea level; heading west from there would put us on National Highway 318. We stayed at Ya'an Shuxi Homeland Hotel (165 yuan/night). There's parking at the hotel entrance and an underground garage accessible from the residential community next door. Breakfast is served on the top floor with a panoramic view of the city. One unfortunate incident: on the way to dinner, K twisted his ankle, so for the next two or three days we'd likely be relying on his wife's driving skills.

Once on the 318, we had to start paying attention to parking availability when booking hotels — until Bomi, most towns lie in narrow valleys and parking spots are often tight.

July 12 (Day 5)

The real 318 self-drive began. We passed Luding (altitude 1,330 m; altitudes henceforth given in meters). To visit Luding Bridge, you had to queue and wear a mask. As the altitude began to rise gradually, we kept the first few days' pace deliberately relaxed to let our bodies acclimatize. That night we lodged in the holy land of love songs — Kangding (2,390 m). We went looking for a girl in ethnic dress who livestreams on Douyin, but to no avail, so we returned, had dinner, and went to bed. We stayed at Kangding Xinyue Qingcheng Hotel (214 yuan/night), a guesthouse inside a residential compound. Many such inns cluster there; parking spots exist but are scarce, though the hotel owner and his wife are very warm-hearted and will help shuffle cars around.

July 13 (Day 6)

Today we crossed our first high-altitude area — Zheduo Mountain (4,298 m). Then, because Gaode Maps alerted us to a jam on the 318, we took a detour and ended up inadvertently crossing Gao'ersi Mountain (4,412 m). We only felt a bit short of breath and ear pressure, nothing too uncomfortable. However, try to avoid the toilet at Zheduo Mountain — the smell is enough to trigger altitude sickness.

I'm not sure if it was the Rhodiola we had taken in advance, or the relaxed schedule and ample sleep over these days, but virtually no one in our group had any altitude sickness. We reached Yajiang (2,530 m) without trouble and stayed at Yajiang Tule Holiday Hotel (144 yuan/night), 24 km before the county town. The inn is right by the 318, with its own restaurant and supermarket. A large open space in front makes parking a breeze; the back faces mountains and water, with lovely scenery.

July 14 (Day 7)

Heading to our last stop before entering Tibet — Batang. En route we passed Kazila Mountain (4,429 m) and the “sky city” Litang (4,000 m). Having felt no major reaction for two days, K and I were already brazenly smoking cigarettes while resting in Litang. After that came Haizi Mountain (4,685 m) and Sister Lakes. The main viewing platform was packed with cars, so we had to go to the next one down the road, though the photo angle wasn't ideal.

Entering Batang (2,580 m) in the evening, we hit traffic. Fortunately, the hotel we booked — Batang Meiyu Grand Hotel (195 yuan/night) — was on a different street, sparing us the jam. After dinner, I went to the front desk to ask about breakfast time. Thank goodness I did, or we might have missed a key detail: breakfast ended at 7:30 a.m. The staff said everyone had to rise early, because the Jinsha River Bridge into Tibet closes at 8:00 every morning and only reopens from noon to 2 p.m. So, contrary to our habit of sleeping in and setting off late, we decided to break tradition: wake up at 5:30 the next morning and depart by 6:00 sharp.

July 15 (Day 8)

Overcoming the huge shock to our body clocks, we left promptly at 6:00 a.m. The road along the Jinsha River was under construction, but by 7:00 we had crossed the Jinsha River Bridge without a hitch — finally, we entered Tibet! After that, we drove through mountainous terrain. Before long, we reached the first public security checkpoint since entering Tibet, where we queued for a while... Around noon, we arrived in Markam County (3,875 m). We grabbed a hasty breakfast and bought a case of “Baisuishan” water (500 ml × 24, 75 yuan) from a nearby supermarket, then pressed on. After crossing Lawu Mountain (4,338 m) and several other passes, we reached our first 5,000-meter pass — Dongda Mountain Pass (5,008 m). We played around for a bit, then my wife finally started to feel a headache. Our kid, however, said he felt nothing — but the oximeter told a different story: one reading 70%, the other 68%. We quickly got out the oxygen canisters we had prepared, took a few puffs, and hurried downhill. Online research had warned us: blood oxygen below 70% is dangerous.

Descending Dongda Mountain brought us to our first major stop in Tibet — Zogang (3,877 m). We chose a Tibetan-owned hotel: Zogang Quxiu Niancang Hotel (333 yuan/night). It's in a new part of Zogang, with clean streets, ample parking in the back courtyard, and plenty of dining options nearby. That evening we enjoyed yak hotpot.

July 16 (Day 9)

Breakfast included butter tea and steamed buns — you helped yourself. Eggs were limited to one per person (understandable, since hens on the plateau supposedly don't lay eggs). After eating, since K's family hadn't gotten up yet, I took our little master for a stroll. We found a fitness trail on the hill behind, offering a view over the new district of Zogang.

Today we had to tackle the Nujiang 72 Hairpin Turns. Along the way, we spotted a sign for Tuotuo Monastery (4,000 m) and turned in to have a look. There was hardly anyone there. It turned out to be one of Zogang's three great monasteries, famed for its wooden molds, clay sculptures, and golden bodhisattvas.

Next came the Nujiang 72 Turns. Both wives clamored to drive the stretch, and they managed it smoothly. That night we rested in Baxoi (3,280 m) at Yaotai Business Hotel (264 yuan/night).

July 17 (Day 10)

At noon, we washed the car at the hotel (facilities provided free), then set off. Back in Zogang, we'd heard that the road from Baxoi to Ranwu had been cut off by mudslides; luckily, it had just been reopened today.

En route, we caught sight of Anjula Mountain (4,325 m). When we reached Ranwu Lake (3,850 m), there was a checkpoint jam, so we took the south fork to Upper Ranwu first. The road was rough, but the scenery was far more beautiful than what we later saw at Middle and Lower Ranwu. After 4 p.m., we returned to line up at the checkpoint. We passed two public security checkpoints that day before finally reaching Bomi.

Bomi (2,725 m) — our hotel, Jiaheng Glacier Theme Hotel (305 yuan/night), on a clear day, supposedly offers a view of glaciers. But by the time we checked out, the clouds never fully cleared, so we missed the view. Still, the hotel is right by the river; the second-floor tea lounge boasts a full river panorama. Besides the courtyard parking, there's a free lot next door, plus a gas station right beside it — very convenient.

July 18 (Day 11)

On the way to Nyingchi, we passed the Tibetan King Cave, then arrived at what was once a treacherous barrier but is now an easy passage — Tongmai Bridge (2,070 m). Nearby, there's a scene of “two rivers merging,” where the Yi'ong Zangbo meets the Parlung Zangbo. At that very moment, the monk's large intestine began a fierce peristaltic movement, so I dropped by the public toilet by the bridge to leave a memento.

We continued to Lunang, but most of it was artificial, tourist-oriented architecture — not very interesting to me. Next, we headed to Sejila Mountain (4,559 m), a viewpoint for Namcha Barwa. Unfortunately, it was another spell of drizzly overcast weather, so we saw nothing. It was also pretty cold, so we didn't wait long and dashed downhill, straight into the embrace of “Southern Switzerland of Tibet.” We planned to rest and recharge in Nyingchi (3,100 m), so we booked a rather fine guesthouse — Nyingchi Yiyinju Holiday Yangxin Hotel (600 yuan/night; found online, then bargained directly via WeChat with the lady boss). That night we tasted Motuo stone-pot chicken.

July 19 (Day 12)

A lazy day. We drank tea in the inn's courtyard, smoked, filled up the tank, and indulged in a series of eating and drinking...

We had tried to book genuine tickets (no tour group, no shopping) for the Potala Palace in advance but failed. Tickets are basically monopolized by travel agencies.

July 20 (Day 13)

Heading for Lhasa! Before departure, we made a special trip to the Nyang River to test-fly the drone. Little did we know it would be its final performance. Then we picked up a Motuo stone pot.

From Nyingchi to Lhasa, you can now take the Linzhi-Lhasa Highway the whole way (it's essentially an expressway that hasn't started charging tolls yet). With the Mira Mountain tunnel, it cuts travel time significantly compared to staying on the 318. Before entering the city, we detoured to Ganden Monastery, the ancestral temple of the Gelug sect. Sadly, it was late and ticket sales had stopped, so we only saw the exterior — still impressive.

At the Lhasa public security checkpoint, our drone was forcibly sent home because our country's “big cat” was in town... We'd be staying three nights in Lhasa (3,650 m). We chose a hotel not far from both Potala Palace and Jokhang Temple: Xi'an Hotel (Potala Jokhang branch, 541 yuan/night). Parking in the courtyard was tight, but there's a security guard dedicated to parking and moving cars — just hand him the keys and tell him when you need the car, and the hotel manages the space. Plenty of dining and supermarkets around.

July 21 (Day 14)

We got up very late and walked to Barkhor Street and Jokhang Temple. Since we couldn't book pure Potala Palace tickets online and didn't want the full-day shopping-group tickets from travel agencies, we just visited the square in front of the palace. K took the now-trendy “mirror of the sky” photos for the ladies, then we headed back. Next to the hotel, we picked a hotpot restaurant, and surprisingly, there was even a sushi place — Japanese food is our kid's favorite, so we got takeout and ate in our room.

July 22 (Day 15)

We originally planned to go to Drepung Monastery, but when we were nearly there we found the road closed — the monastery wasn't receiving visitors that day, again due to the “big cat's” presence. Moreover, Jokhang Temple and Barkhor Street were also closed to the public. A warm-hearted Tibetan officer told us that Sera Monastery was still open, so we headed straight there. At Sera, we hired a young guide (100 yuan) and also watched a session of academic activity among the monks — the debate.

July 23 (Day 16)

Our plan for today was to visit Riduo Monastery, then head to Gyantse for the night, taking in Yamdrok Lake (4,440 m) along the way. We left the hotel around 11:00. In a moment of cheapness, I went for a gas station with a discount, which involved a detour. After refueling, we got stuck in traffic control for over half an hour because the “big cat” was leaving Lhasa for Nyingchi. Then, crossing Gyarola Pass (4,700 m), we found the scenery so stunning that we played around for over an hour.

By the time we reached Riduo Monastery, it was already 4:30 p.m., so we canceled our Gyantse reservation outright. Riduo Monastery is known as “one monk, one temple, one lonely island.” Although there are now three lamas, it still holds the title of the loneliest temple on Yamdrok Lake.

Leaving Riduo Monastery, we took the county road along the lake. It took a full two hours to cover 18 kilometers! Of course, we could have looped onto the main road, but that wouldn't have allowed us to appreciate the lake views up close. On Gaode, we found a lakeside guesthouse: Yanghu Buluo Family Inn (315 yuan/night). By the time we arrived, it was almost 9 p.m. Fortunately, they could still cook. We ordered mostly meat dishes because vegetables were no cheaper than meat here. They also had canned barley wine.

July 24 (Day 17)

We continued along the lake, but today the road was paved. Near Karola Glacier, we almost got conned into buying tickets. The glacier is right next to the road; as we approached, there was a barricade with uniformed staff demanding tickets to pass. We said we weren't visiting the glacier, just driving through — did that require a ticket? Under our persistent questioning, they let us go. Basically, they tried to trick whoever they could. The glacier is visible from the road without even stopping, so they had resorted to this shabby trick to earn money.

Yesterday we should have reached Gyantse, but today we wouldn't be staying there. We visited Palcho Monastery. Its Bodhi Stupa (also called the 100,000-Buddha Stupa) has about four floors and is well worth seeing.

That evening we lodged in Shigatse (4,000 m) at Super 8 Hotel (North Jilin Road, 212 yuan/night), on the northeastern edge of town. The area seemed like a building-materials street, with easy access to dining and supermarkets. Tashilhunpo Monastery was also within walking distance for those whose stamina wasn't too poor.

July 25 (Day 18)

We strolled around town. Found a Shaanxi-style restaurant for lunch: leek pockets and cold noodles. We didn't go inside Tashilhunpo; instead, we drank sweet tea outside and bought our kid a Tibetan-style hat...

July 26 (Day 19)

Leaving Shigatse, we had continuous rain. At the 5,000-km milestone of the 318, we stopped briefly for photos, but this isn't the real 5,000-km marker, so there was no need to linger.

Then we turned off to Sakya County. Inside the county town lies Sakya Monastery — as the name suggests, it's the ancestral monastery of the Sakya sect. The scripture wall called “Wisdom Ocean Sutra Mountain” was truly awe-inspiring! Actually, this is the “Sakya South Monastery.” The original North Monastery had 108 structures; only a handful survive today.

Back on the 318, we passed the genuine 5,000-km milestone. Everyone struck flying poses for the classic jumping photo. By evening we reached Tingri (4,350 m) and stayed at Baiba Grand Hotel (230 yuan/night), right by the main road. The hotel is entirely single-story, enclosed as a courtyard, so parking was no problem. After Shigatse, parking was no longer an issue when booking hotels — west of here, the land is vast and sparsely populated. Unfortunately, the hotel cook was on vacation, so we had to eat out (dumplings). K and I agreed to decide tomorrow whether to go to Everest Base Camp based on the weather.

July 27 (Day 20)

Waking up after 9 a.m., the sky was partly cloudy. We decided to go for Everest. In truth, the weather here has little bearing on conditions at Base Camp. Our philosophy: whether we see the peak or not, it's enough that we came. On the way, there's a gas station to top up.

Due to the Nanjing airport outbreak, the epidemiological checks at the reserve entrance were much stricter, delaying us by over twenty minutes. After 108 hairpin turns, we reached the eco-bus interchange. At Base Camp (5,000 m), the weather alternated between clouds and rain. Our group squeezed into a tent, ordered a thermos of sweet tea, and waited. The peak never appeared. We didn't bother walking to the nearby Rongbuk Monastery — of monasteries, Tibet has no shortage.

Queueing for the eco-bus downhill, we got into an argument with a group of middle-aged and elderly tour-group members. These folks, calling each other “teacher,” had one or two people holding places for the entire group in the queue. After boarding, they even saved seats with cameras and bags — utterly shameless. How can such “teachers” educate children? All they can do is “spoil” people tirelessly! (No regional bias, just facts: their accent sounded like people from around Shanghai, Jiangsu, or Zhejiang.) This incident also proved that we had all completely overcome altitude sickness — to be able to quarrel at nearly 5,000 meters, what place could faze us? It also confirmed another thing: the so-called “elderly who should be cared for” only exist on buses, subways, and in hospitals — never in scenic spots or supermarkets! Because they can summon astonishing energy and hidden reserves at any moment!

Back down at dusk, we went straight to the Northeastern-style dumpling house next to the hotel. Though pricier than the one we tried the previous night, the portions were larger (17–18 per serving vs. 12 the night before) and, most importantly, the taste was fantastic.

July 28 (Day 21)

Nice weather today. We continued west! Tour groups on the Qinghai-Tibet route (including self-drive groups) turn back to Lhasa from here. Our route would take us into Ngari and its northern route — the real journey had only just begun: a transcendence of the soul, into the Tibet of Tibet, the roof of the roof.

Along the way we first spotted Peiku Tso, visible from far off to the north of National Highway 219. Shishapangma to the south, however, remained hidden in clouds, refusing to show itself.

Before entering Saga County (4,600 m), we again queued briefly at the security checkpoint. The county town is small but bustling with all the necessities — perhaps because most travelers heading to Ngari overnight here, making it thrive. We checked into Saga Xinji Hotel (265 yuan/night). To park, you go downhill on the left side of the hotel to the back courtyard parking lot, then climb up two floors from the basement rear entrance. At high altitude, climbing stairs still left us quite out of breath.

July 29 (Day 22)

In the morning, we had breakfast at a steamed-bun shop across from the hotel. The buns were good — even my son, who normally doesn't like buns, polished off a whole steamer.

While crossing Tugla Pass (4,920 m), we met a young cyclist traveling alone. He said he was a third-year university student, afraid he'd have no time after graduation, so he was using his holiday to cycle around the Ngari loop. Deeply admirable.

Passing through Zhongba County into Ngari Prefecture, after several bouts of rain, we finally arrived in Darchen (4,650 m) in Purang County by evening. Darchen is the ideal launching point for Mount Kailash. We had booked Chuanbei Hotel in Purang (650 yuan/night) with underfloor heating. The two handsome lads at the front desk assured us: “Feel free to shower in our hotel; you won't catch a cold.” The rooms were huge, parking in the courtyard plentiful, and there were two or three eateries at the gate. The weather that night was decent; from the hotel entrance, we could see Kailash's summit.

July 30 (Day 23)

We hadn't planned to do the Kailash kora, so we didn't buy tickets to enter the scenic area. Following the front desk's advice, we drove back onto the 219 from the hotel and headed a short way toward Zanda until we reached a viewpoint under construction by the roadside. There were tents there; when finished, you'll be able to sip sweet tea while taking in the mountain view. Honestly, if you're not doing the kora, there's no need to buy a ticket — the views and angles of the sacred mountain from the 219 are perfect. That day, though, it was overcast, and the summit never fully revealed itself.

After waiting about an hour, we turned back toward the holy lake, Manasarovar. Around the lake, there were ropes barring entry unless you bought a ticket. But in many places, you could simply step over and get close to the shore. We joined a handful of other tourists and crossed the cordon.

Next came the ghost lake, Rakshastal, where no one blocked the way. A four-wheel-drive SUV could go right up to the lakeside; we even saw a red Audi sedan that had made it. To me, the ghost lake had an even more distinctive charm, not inferior to the holy lake at all. Flocks of gulls by the lake could be fed, and to the south stood the “goddess” Naimona'nyi Peak.

July 31 (Day 24)

After checking out in the morning, we circled through Darchen town once more as a sort of farewell. On the way to Zanda, looking to the right, we could keep Mount Kailash in sight for a long time. Later, we stopped at Gurujiang Monastery. The road was in great condition. This is the only remaining Bon monastery in Ngari, partly built on the mountainside. Then we returned to the 219, found a tea house, drank sweet tea, rested, and continued.

We experienced the “four seasons in ten miles” phenomenon. Crossing a pass, it looked as if it had just snowed, the snow not yet melted. Gradually, we began to see the earth-forest landforms. Crossing the Sutlej River (also called Langqên Zangbo), we entered the sun-drenched town of Zanda...

We planned to stay three nights in Zanda (3,700 m), to visit the ancient Guge Kingdom and also to rest and recuperate. After all, this was the lowest-altitude overnight stop in Ngari since leaving Shigatse. We booked Zanda Guge Hotel (329 yuan/night), which serves as a local government guesthouse. They often have to keep some rooms for official reception, so sometimes they won't accept tourists even if rooms are available. At check-in, the front desk politely asked if we had a drone, and I answered with infinite sorrow: “Once there was a DJI drone before us, but we did not cherish it...” (our drone had been forcibly mailed home before entering Lhasa). In my mind echoed the line by French Symbolist poet Paul Verlaine: “Un grand sommeil noir / Tombe sur ma vie...”

August 1 (Day 25)

Around noon, we reached the ruins of the Guge Kingdom, just 18 km from Zanda county town. We bought four adult tickets; our 15-year-old was honored with a free ticket. Unfortunately, the Red Hall and White Hall were under renovation and closed. But wandering up and down and climbing about, we could still listen to the distant footsteps of that era, feel the long-lost pulse of that kingdom, and sense its long-sealed glory...

For dinner, we craved dumplings. An online search pointed us to a “Northeast Dumpling” place, but it turned out to be a huge disappointment. Looking back, everyone agreed it was the worst dumplings of the trip — no contest, no appeals accepted.

August 2 (Day 26)

In the morning, I went alone to “Jingling Xiaolongbao,” which had good reviews on a review site. The food was to my taste, so I packed some for K and my kid, earning high praise.

Originally, we planned to visit the National Earth Forest Park today. Following the navigation, there was never any sign for a park — just a road. It felt bewildering, though earth-forest landforms surrounded us. We soon turned back to town. Passing Toling Monastery, I thought to take a look since the remains of the great translator Rinchen Zangpo are enshrined there. The monastery doesn't charge locals (as is common in Tibetan areas), but tourists need to buy a ticket with cash. I didn't have enough cash on me. I sighed: this monk has no affinity with this temple! Besides, it's a reconstructed site, so missing it was no loss.

August 3 (Day 27)

Leaving Zanda, we headed for Shiquanhe. Following the advice of the security officer at the checkpoint on our way in, and after asking the girl at the gas station, we took County Road 701 — a route that doesn't appear on Gaode Maps. The road seemed newly opened. It turned out to be the same road we'd driven yesterday toward the National Earth Forest Geological Park. Following the signs, we turned left off the county road to Xiayigou Colorful Earth Forest — definitely worth seeing. Once inside the gully, it was all dirt roads similar to dry riverbeds; an SUV handles it better.

We retraced our path to County Road 701, continued a short way north, then turned right as directed by signs to the Donggar and Piyang ruins — another Guge Kingdom site, though with far fewer tourists than the main Guge ruins. At a tea house below, we bought tickets for 50 yuan each; our kid was again free. This time we were lucky: the old man guarding the murals took us inside a cave to see them. Having no suitable gift, I left him a pack of “Nanjing Twelve Beauties” cigarettes as a token of appreciation. Coming back down, we drank sweet tea at the same tea house and chatted with a Tibetan driver who ran chartered tours. He told us about the skull wall in Biru and the Sêrkang Glacier, so we adjusted our itinerary to include them later.

Leaving Donggar-Piyang, we crossed two passes over 5,200 meters, then returned to the 219 all the way to Shiquanhe. Entering Shiquanhe (4,280 m) close to 8 p.m., the checkpoint took quite a while. An ambulance led a convoy of vehicles into Shiquanhe to a designated hospital for scanning codes, temperature checks, and signing a pledge. After that whole process, we finally headed to our booked hotel: Gar Tianshang Business Hotel (252 yuan/night). It was on the second floor with no elevator. In the parking lot, the hotel's big dog greeted us enthusiastically first, and also coaxed some snacks out of us...

August 4 (Day 28)

We'd been on the road for quite a while and were starting to feel a bit heaty — every time I ate, my gums ached. K's wife recommended metronidazole, cheap and effective. Worried it might be hard to find back in Beijing (the drug is dirt cheap), before setting out for Pangong Lake, we stopped at a pharmacy. It was 12 yuan for a box of 100 tablets — we bought two boxes to stock up for future road trips.

Shiquanhe to Pangong Lake isn't far, but the whole way had a speed limit of 60 km/h with average-speed enforcement — a real pain in the neck. Although Pangong Lake is a border lake between China and India, India was probably still a good hundred kilometers away. We were at China's western frontier; few tourists come here, though we did see some from Xinjiang. Pangong Lake was our westernmost turnaround point. From here, we began the return journey.

We still went back to Shiquanhe for the night, because the next leg was to Gerze. If we'd stayed in Rutog county near the lake, the next day's drive would have been tougher. The northern Ngari route (National Highway 317) mostly stays above 4,400 meters. One key to preventing altitude sickness is good rest and avoiding excessively long drives — that's one reason we concluded nobody in our group had serious AMS since setting foot on the 318.

August 5 (Day 29)

We officially embarked on the 317, the northern Ngari route. Compared to when we first got on the 318 into Tibet, it was like a different world: almost no traffic, and despite the high altitude, the road was relatively gentle. We began experiencing the sensation of “one lake after another”: first, we spotted a blue-and-white lake not far off the road. Gaode had no label; checking Baidu Maps, we learned it was called “Nyêr Co.” This was the first salt lake of our trip. We were all thrilled and played around for a long time before tearfully departing.

After that, we passed a series of lakes: Bêra Yongco, Wuma Co, and others. Among them, Wuma Co under the evening sun was the most beautiful, its turquoise surface looking almost artificial.

By evening we reached Gerze (4,430 m) and checked into Gerze Zisheng Grand Hotel (214 yuan/night), on the southern edge of town, with a gas station about a kilometer east. The hotel seemed to be run by a logistics company; it had a glass greenhouse-like common area where guests could chat and drink tea, and you could take breakfast there too.

August 6 (Day 30)

Since it was our first time in Tibet and we'd ventured to the remote Ngari region, we hadn't dared plan the central route. But Zarainm Co was something we couldn't bear to skip, so we decided to leave the 317 southward to Coqên County.

Today we first passed Dompa Co, another salt lake. Maybe it was the light that day, but the mountain range stretching beyond Dompa Co looked just like the painting “A Thousand Li of Rivers and Mountains” — something no phone camera could capture. The women tried several times to get close to wild donkeys along the lake but never succeeded.

As soon as we turned south off the 317, we hit dozens of kilometers of corrugated dirt road, making us doubt our route choice — yet the navigation clearly indicated this way. There were almost no other vehicles. Perhaps due to that solitude, we spotted plenty of Tibetan antelopes and wild asses... After about an hour of jarring jolts, we finally reached a paved road. Skirting around Xiajang Snow Mountain and a lake with a bird island, we arrived at Coqên county town (4,660 m).

▲ Happy trio

Coqên looked freshly renovated: low-rise buildings but mostly new. We checked into Coqên Gaoyuan Yinxiang Hotel (274 yuan/night), also on the second floor — another climb, but by now everyone was well adapted. The boss said the whole county had only a dozen or so hotels. Due to the sudden pandemic flare-up this year, travel agencies had canceled many bookings, which is why we could still get rooms. In past summers, it's often fully booked; we were lucky in misfortune.

August 7 (Day 31)

Following the hotel owner's advice, we didn't go to the ticket-selling scenic area of Zarainm Co (120 yuan a ticket, we heard). Instead, we drove south from Coqên, occasionally spotting marmots along the way, and in about 40 minutes reached a place called Coqên Village, right on the lake shore. No tickets needed; you could drive right up to the water. Free beauty was every bit as stunning.

Again on the hotel owner's advice, for the return journey to Tangra Yumco, we didn't take the long way via the national highway but used Provincial Road 205. He said only about 40 km was dirt, but we actually endured roughly 100 km of bone-rattling off-road. Timewise it probably saved little, but we did see abundant wildlife: countless Tibetan antelopes and marmots. Just as we were about to lose our minds from the pounding, we finally turned onto smooth, paved tarmac — and it was still just a county road! The feeling at that moment was exactly like the boss in the movie “The Dream Factory,” squatting at the village entrance waiting for the Mercedes.

Soon after the blacktop began, we caught sight of the Bon holy lake Tangra Yumco and the sacred mountain Daguo Snow Mountain (also called Da'erguo). Given our travel habits, we usually set off after 10 a.m., so many landscapes we saw near dusk, which lent them an extraordinary beauty...

We'd sleep in Nyima County tonight. At the Wengbu South Village turnoff, we encountered an pandemic checkpoint that warned us we might need a nucleic acid test result to enter Nyima. Nervously, we reached the outskirts of Nyima, where a convoy of Beijing-plated SUVs ahead seemed to be holding some kind of papers — likely test results. Since we'd been in Tibet nearly a month, nobody had asked us for tests, so all we had was a green travel code showing 14 days entirely within the region. The police didn't scrutinize us particularly closely, and we somewhat muddled through behind the Beijing convoy into Nyima. Huge thanks to those unknown Beijing brothers!

After nearly a hundred kilometers of spiritual interrogation and physical torment on Provincial Road 205, we all decided to rest a day in Nyima (4,550 m) and get the car serviced. After all, we'd driven over 7,600 km from Beijing — safety mattered. Accommodation: Nyima County Grand Hotel (410 yuan/night), which also seemed like the main government guesthouse, with quite a few soldiers in camouflage staying there. Parking at the entrance and back yard, several restaurants downstairs, and a reasonably large supermarket for restocking.

August 8 (Day 32)

Full rest day. Got up close to noon, found a nearby auto repair shop on Gaode Maps, very close to the hotel. The shop was just a small yard without fancy equipment, but sufficient for basic maintenance. We changed the oil, checked the brakes (with a reimbursement limit from the rental company Yi-hi), and later found a place to wash the car — they did a meticulous job.

The rest of the day was eating, casual strolling, and the ladies somehow procured Tibetan-style aprons... We'd originally planned to go to Baingoin and then the Holy Elephant Gate. But much like the Potala Palace situation, pure tickets were impossible to get — only bundled packages with accommodation and meals. According to netizens, the accommodation is atrocious and the food lousy, plus a nearly 3-hour corrugated road each way. Having just endured a hundred kilometers of brutality on Provincial Road 205 and having grown somewhat numb to lakes, we decided to skip it. Tomorrow, we'd make a long dash to Nagqu.

August 9 (Day 33)

Today we passed lake after lake: Dazê Co, Qagba Co, Siling Co, Co'e, Bam Co, Pung Co, and more. Siling Co is the largest — currently Tibet's biggest lake, still expanding every year. We didn't specifically look for the “scenic area” entrance. Come to think of it, for all the lakes we'd seen, we never bought a ticket. Truly, there's no need to visit a designated scenic area — as long as you pass by, the scenery descends upon you like grace (cf. Mark 13:35).

We reached Nagqu (4,600 m) close to 9 p.m. and stayed at Zangdi Tianxiang Hotel (322 yuan/night). The hotel has restaurants on both the first and second floors; we had hotpot on the first floor that evening.

August 10 (Day 34)

Rest day in Nagqu. Lunch at a Sichuan place nearby. Right next to it was a yogurt shop called “Göngsang Tarjay”; we bought a big bucket of yogurt back to the hotel. It went perfectly with the glucose oral liquid we'd brought for altitude sickness but never used.

August 11 (Day 35)

Leaving Nagqu, we followed the Tibetan driver's advice from Donggar-Piyang and left the 317 for National Highway 558, heading toward Biru County. Before reaching Biru town, we visited the famous skull wall at Damco Monastery. Although damaged during the Cultural Revolution, it has now been partially restored and renovated. Upon entering the main hall, I saw a Tibetan-language epidemic registration book for the first time.

Across the river lay Radeng Monastery, which also has a skull wall, but it was late so we didn't cross.

The next stop was the first bend of the Nujiang River — Chagyu Bend of the Nujiang. Much more primitive than the one in Yunnan, an unfinished viewing platform was being built here. We took a quick look and drove on.

Biru (3,910 m) had roadworks everywhere. As soon as we started to park at the roadside near the hotel, a police car came to shoo us away: no roadside parking. Fortunately, Biru Naxiu Hotel (250 yuan/night) had designated spaces in the back courtyard with someone directing. No great-value hotels in Biru; this one was barely acceptable. Since we'd been in Tibet the whole time, we hadn't done a nucleic acid test, so the front desk had to call the public security bureau for special permission before letting us check in.

August 12 (Day 36)

To reach Sêrkang Sacred Mountain (Glacier), you head south from Biru, cresting the 5,072-meter Xara Pass. The first 70–80 km were paved, but after the ticket office, it's almost all potholed road with several water crossings. The few smooth patches were on small iron bridges. After reaching the outer lake, you have to drive a narrow half-mountainside road to get to the inner lake right under the sacred mountain. This stretch is so narrow that passing another vehicle in many spots is very difficult.

The eighteen kilometers inside the scenic area took nearly two hours. By the time we arrived below the mountain at 4 p.m., we decided to stay overnight at the lakeside guesthouse. Our original plan to return to Sog County or Biru was impossible. Satsuk Travel Guesthouse (100 yuan/person/night) at 4,700 m — children without a bed are free, but for comfort we paid an extra 100 so our kid could have his own bed. Scenic area tickets were 150 per adult; our kid went free.

We set up a picnic table in front of the guesthouse, enjoying sweet tea with a view of the sacred mountain. A hundred meters ahead, climbing a small hillock, you could see the inner lake with floating ice that hadn't melted yet. Marmots and wild rabbits were everywhere, allowing close-up photos. In the evening, yaks filed down the mountain to return. The owner told us that the night before, a bear had come down to forage. A girl screamed in fright from inside her car, agitating the bears, which smashed the car window and tore the tent. So as we bought tickets that day, staff warned us not to camp in tents or sleep in the car.

August 13 (Day 37)

Yesterday evening was overcast, but this morning the weather cleared, fully revealing Sêrkang's beauty. The arduous journey was truly worth it — as the saying goes, “The mountain is loveliest when you've exhausted your strength.” We snapped photos eagerly, only reluctantly leaving close to noon — any later and the incoming vehicles would arrive, and meeting on that narrow mountain ridge was something none of us wished for.

▲ Sêrkang Family

We backtracked to Biru the same way and found a Tibetan tea house to rest. Ordered sweet tea, fried flatbread, and other snacks. After eating, we headed for Sog County. Gaode Navigation directed us back to the 317 via the 558, but a local told us there was a dirt-road shortcut straight back to the 317, visible only if you set the navigation to cycling mode. Along this route, we crossed the 5,300-meter Kangqên Pass (also called Kangqen La). Handling this altitude now was sheer “So easy!”

Descending, K's car suddenly stalled and wouldn't restart. A Tibetan driver pulled over and spent a long time trying to help, but to no avail. He told us the nearest repair shop was over 30 km away. We had no choice but to send one car downhill to find a mechanic to come up. I must say, Tibetans are genuinely kind and warm-hearted — this wasn't an isolated case but the norm. Just as we reached the security checkpoint at the foot of the mountain, K called from above: under a friend's guidance, they'd managed to get the car going and were slowly driving down. Om mani padme hum, Buddha bless us!

Darkness had fallen. When K caught up, we didn't even let him stop; we turned on our hazard lights and convoyed toward Sog County (4,000 m)... After much ordeal, we finally made it to Sog Xiuxueyu Hotel (221 yuan/night), booked on the road. Driving into the courtyard, there were exactly two spots left. Parked, checked in, ate, and slept. We decided to stay put tomorrow so K could get his car fixed.

August 14 (Day 38)

Got up after 9, drove K to the repair shop, and handed the car over to a mechanic.

At noon, we found a Sichuan restaurant. After eating, I got a haircut (35 yuan). Sog County's famed Zanden Monastery really does look a bit like a mini Potala Palace. Exhausted from yesterday's car troubles, we only glimpsed it from afar — didn't even take a photo. After scouring my USB drive, I found just one street shot of the Sog County People's Court...

As we were about to leave Tibet, we browsed a small shop in the evening and bought some Tibetan incense. Finally, we stumbled upon a Cantonese-style food stall for a change of flavor: dry-fried beef chow fun and clay pot soup dumplings. After a whole month, I'd grown sick of Sichuan food.

August 15 (Day 39)

Leaving Sog, we headed for Dengqên. In truth, Dengqên's Zizhu Monastery was the most original destination of this entire journey. When our child was still in the womb, his mother happened to meet the abbot of Zizhu Monastery, Living Buddha Dingzhen Erse, at Sansheng Nunnery in Beijing. The living Buddha graciously touched her head in blessing — that's how we first learned of Zizhu Monastery, and we'd been yearning to visit ever since.

The scenery along the way differed greatly from the northern Ngari 317. Yellow and green fields now dotted the hillsides, and the air felt much moister. The roads were also far better than past travelers described, clearly having been recently improved. We drove smoothly and arrived directly at Dengqên Chongcao Grand Hotel (275 yuan/night). Parking in front, a hotpot restaurant right next door for dinner, and the county public security bureau to the left. Also, the steamed buns from the shop across the street were delicious. Dengqên (3,850 m) deserved an extra night, but because we'd stayed an extra night in Sog for the car repair, we decided not to linger and to head straight to Zizhu Monastery tomorrow.

August 16 (Day 40)

Not far from Dengqên, we turned at the Zizhu Monastery junction. After a short drive, a left turn began the famous forty-odd hairpin bends. From Dengqên to the mountain-top temple takes just over an hour in total. Zizhu Monastery (4,800 m) is a Yungdrung Bon temple with three thousand years of history. Perched against six peaks of Mount Zizhu, symbolizing the deliverance of all beings in the six realms, its setting is utterly unique. The main hall was under renovation. A monk accompanied us inside, where we offered butter lamps (WeChat scan accepted) to Lord Tompa Shenrab. When we asked if Living Buddha Dingzhen was around, the monk said he wasn't at the monastery, most likely still in Beijing compiling the Bon Tripitaka.

Our original plan was to go via Chamdo, Dêgê, Garzê, Changdu Monastery, Barkam, and Chengdu back to Beijing, but Sichuan had reported COVID cases, and word from various sources said anyone who passed through a province with an outbreak would have an asterisk on their travel code and be barred from entering Beijing. So we opted to leave Tibet via Riwoche into Qinghai. On the way to Riwoche, we inadvertently saw Qu Yama Monastery and the 800-year-old Kamado Pagoda Forest. A new middle-school student just admitted to Nyingchi Middle School enthusiastically gave us an impromptu volunteer guided tour — yet again we felt the warmth and simplicity of Tibetans.

When we arrived at our booked hotel in Riwoche (3,800 m) that evening, the owner called the police station for permission because we had no nucleic acid test certificate. But nobody answered, so they dared not let us stay. I always plan two or three hotel options per overnight stop. We went 300 meters to the backup, Xiyue Hotel (260 yuan/night), and asked: no problem at all. Checked in immediately. Dinner, again Sichuan, at the restaurant across the street.

August 17 (Day 41)

Riwoche's morning was tranquil. I had breakfast alone at the same place we'd dined the night before while everyone else still slept. Brought back dumplings (frozen) for my kid.

Today we'd be leaving Tibet. An indescribable, strange feeling welled up inside me — something felt off. Could it be that I'd been truly poisoned? For everyone who's been to Tibet says: Tibet is toxic! Indeed, a deep sensation, winding and curling from somewhere deep in my body, surging up through my gut and esophagus — a belch-like sigh...

After exiting Tibet, we passed through the Quzha checkpoint smoothly into Yushu (3,700 m), Qinghai. Murals often appeared on the mountainsides, though their bright colors suggested they were rather new.

Stayed at Yushu Qinggan Hotel (364 yuan/night), with parking in the back yard. Required to log into “Health Qinghai” and scan a registration code.

August 18 (Day 42)

Visited the famous Gyanak Mani Stone Mound. Cars aren't allowed in; there's roadside parking. This is the world's largest mani stone pile, estimated at around 2.5 billion stones. Many devotees circumambulated it. But a few women secretly prodded children to beg for money from tourists — something we never encountered even once in Tibet. Clearly, the people here are far less pure and innocent than those deep inside Tibet.

On the way back, we looked around Jêgu Monastery, but it was closed due to the pandemic. Jêgu Monastery began as a Bon temple called Nangqên, later became a Nyingma monastery named Great Jêgu, and was finally converted to a Sakya monastery by the 20th Sakya throne holder.

After Jêgu Monastery, we went to King Gesar Square to drink coffee and chat until the sky darkened and rain fell, then returned to the hotel.

August 19 (Day 43)

Today was this monk's birthday. We'd be driving over 11 hours to Xining (2,260 m). Having left Tibet, few sights held much appeal for me anymore, and fearing an encounter with the pandemic somewhere on the road, we quickened our pace. The expressway from Yushu to Xining was damaged in last year's Maduo earthquake; the Yematan Bridge still hasn't been repaired. However, National Highway 214 was open and smooth; after Maduo, we could get on the expressway. In hindsight, we should have stayed on the 214 all the way — it's no slower, minus the tolls and the need to waste time at rest stops because of average-speed cameras.

After Gonghe Toll Station, we faced no more checkpoints until reaching the hotel: Xining Haiyue Hotel (172 yuan/night). Parking was tight because the hotel has entertainment venues like clubs, especially worse in the early part of the night. The hotel restaurant next door, Qingzhen Gamusa Meishi, was pretty good, though it only opened in the evening and stayed open until 4 or 5 a.m., likely catering to the nightlife crowd.

August 20 (Day 44)

Rest day. I'd been to Xining before, so the two families split up to explore the commercial streets. We had beef noodles, bought a Type-C charging cable to replace the flaky one in the car. K specially bought a bunch of cakes back to the hotel to belatedly celebrate my birthday. Tomorrow we'd go separate ways: K to Shapotou in Zhongwei, Ningxia; we'd been there twice already, so we headed for Qingyang, Gansu.

August 21 (Day 45)

Nearly 700 km from Xining to Qingyang, about 8–9 hours drive, so we broke habit and left at 9:30.

All day, it was tunnels in, tunnels out. By the time we neared Qingyang, the heavy rain forecasted arrived on cue. Roads pooled deep water, making the car hydroplane and swerve; at one point we almost scraped the guardrail...

In Qingyang (1,400 m), we chose a hotel on a commercial street: Qingyang Meilun Lizhi Hotel (184 yuan/night). Parking was in a courtyard that doubled as a department store lot — not spacious but we always found a spot. One caveat: the hotel only gives one parking voucher per day. Still, with dining and shopping all within walking distance, it was convenient.

August 22 (Day 46)

We planned three nights in Qingyang, waiting for K to return from Zhongwei. Apart from wandering, we had a buffet lunch at “Mian Duzi” and visited the North Grotto Temple a short distance out of town. Its history dates back at least to the Northern Wei Dynasty. It was under renovation, so only a few caves were open. Cave 165, the most representative, was excavated during the Northern Wei. Photos weren't supposed to be allowed, but I couldn't resist and secretly snapped a few.

August 23 (Day 47)

Shopping for Qingyang specialty — fragrant sachets. We bought several “donkeys.” After such a trip, you've got to bring back some souvenirs.

August 24 (Day 48)

Given pandemic control policies in Shaanxi and Shanxi, today we'd cross two provinces to enter Hebei, arranging to meet K in Xingtai. Another 11-hour drive, taking turns at the wheel, not too tiring. That night we stayed at Xingtai Yabin Business Hotel (Kaiyuan Temple Park branch, 143 yuan/night), with parking in front and in the underground garage. Downstairs, food stalls; we had our “farewell dinner” — tomorrow we'd enter Beijing and head home.

August 25 (Day 49)

We slept in. Only 400 km to Beijing; apart from the entry checkpoint, nowhere should delay us. Plus, getting home late was no big deal. At 11 a.m., we embarked on the final leg. At Baoding Service Area, we had donkey burgers. We'd originally planned to eat in Baoding and pack some “Baiyunzhang” beef and mutton stuffing, but the pandemic made that impossible... The Beijing entry checkpoint did take some time, but the inspection was surprisingly simple: just ID check, not even our travel code was scanned. On second thought, it made sense: after all the layers of checkpoints along the way, anyone with an issue would never have made it this far.

At 5 p.m., we arrived at our home garage. Unloaded, washed the car, refueled, returned it...

The self-drive journey spanned 49 days and nearly 12,500 km, coming to a safe and successful conclusion!

Here I kneel in gratitude to the Buddha, all bodhisattvas, and deities, whose grace descended to protect us from harm! 卍 Om Ma Tri Mu Ye Sa Le Du 卍

Namo Amitabha Buddha

Namo Guan Shih Yin Bodhisattva

Namo Medicine Buddha

Several months after returning, I've finally begun recording this self-drive journey. Every time I recall the details and scenes, my heart surges with emotion that takes a long time to settle. Often I feast and chat with K about the inspirations and regrets of this trip, while also paying closer attention to Tibet-related content on social media. Completing a self-drive tour around Tibet at fifty, I feel deeply fulfilled. At the same time, I'm pondering whether one day I can re-enter that sacred land to be reborn anew — Tibet, I will definitely go back...

— December 15, 2021, at home in Beijing

1. Altitude sickness can be prevented: avoid long, grueling travel days; ensure sufficient sleep; avoid rush-style itineraries (no slight to package tours, but even self-drive tours, the tight scheduling inevitably sacrifices full rest and sleep). Start slowly, gradually ascending overnight altitudes to let the body acclimatize. Also, the much-debated Rhodiola and glucose are worth preparing. Reactions vary, but they do no harm, and at the very least they act as a psychological placebo, and even mental suggestion can be quite effective.

2. Scenic area tickets aren't always necessary. Many beautiful sights are actually best from afar, fading up close, and not every view can be walled in. Moreover, online ticket purchases often come bundled with accommodations and meals, a form of tied selling. Pure entry tickets are often unavailable online, so consider carefully before booking to avoid regret and grumbling.

3. If time and finances allow, I strongly recommend going to Ngari and the northern Ngari route. Just driving the 318 to Lhasa or even Shigatse and Everest Base Camp barely scratches the surface of the real Tibet. On the 318, you'll face endless traffic and crowds, with random aunties and uncles popping into your hard-won scenic shots. Not so in Ngari and its north — there, you leave the bustle behind.

Travelogue Contents

1. Departure

2. On the 318

3. Westward Bound

4. Into Ngari

5. Lake after Lake

6. Dreaming Back to Dengqên

7. The Road Home

8. Conclusion

9. Postscript

Travel Info

Hotel Index