A Family's Super Simple, Super Fun, and Super Healing Seven-Day Trip to Xi'an

Eyes wide open to see the world, mouth wide open to eat the world:

Halfway through summer vacation, still lounging at home recovering. Once my wife and kids finished their competitions and my back felt much better, I couldn’t bear to let cabin fever set in, so I called an emergency family meeting: get out, get out, get out. At first we planned Shanxi—late July would be relatively cool—but my wife wasn’t keen; too many heavy historical sites might be hard for the kids to digest (note to self: save for another trip). Then we suggested Xi’an. Though summers there are hot, it beat staying home, and my wife had even stocked up a few hotel deals on Ctrip, so off we went…

Day 1, Quancheng – Chang’an

Transport: Our flight landed just after 2 p.m. We took the metro straight to the Hampton by Hilton on Beidajie. Part of the line is above ground, with endless views of earthen mounds on the loess plateaus—an overwhelming sense of history hit us right away.

Itinerary: We’d planned to hit the city wall at dusk after checking in, but the north gate (Anyuanmen) was closed. That really deserves a gripe—and more on that later. Which gate is open each day is unpredictable, so outsiders can easily have their plans thrown off. Then my cousin drove over to pick us up for dinner; the wall would have to wait.

Dining: Dinner was at Chang’an Dapaidang in Saige Plaza. Here you get a taste of a cosmopolitan city: the mall has what’s billed as Asia’s longest escalator, waterfalls, plank walkways, vines, greenery, flowers—but none of that is the point! Chang’an Dapaidang is the point: you can sample famous snacks from all over Shaanxi in one go, and after comparing over the next few days, I can vouch that the quality is top-notch. The place is decked out like an old-school time-honored brand, with open-kitchen signs for local specialties. My cousin’s welcome feast filled the table in two waves—I loved every dish but ate myself into a stupor, to the point I thought I’d have no appetite for the rest of the trip!! As if! So many things I tried for the first time. My absolute favorite was Tian Wang You Ta Er, a tower of steamed dough strips—just one dip in the seasoning, oh the fragrance, the rich textures, pure happiness. Huluji (crispy gourd-shaped chicken), with crackling skin and tender meat; Xifu Yikouxiang, my beloved saozi noodles, sour, spicy, aromatic; laozao (fermented glutinous rice) ice cream, a hit with the ladies and kids; Guanzhong Six Small Bowls, by then we couldn’t eat another bite; brush-shaped pastry, little zeng cakes, Qinzhen rice noodles, hele noodles, duck blood vermicelli soup, fried tofu brain, roasted pork trotters—just chow down, and I’ve already forgotten the specifics! In a daze, I do remember the fennel pancakes—basically fennel sprouts mixed with batter—interesting!

Day 2, Downtown (Old City)

Transport: Shared bikes + taxis. In the old town, cab fares start at the base rate, and outside rush hour it’s easy to get one. Drivers in Chang’an are pretty friendly. For spots about a kilometer from a metro station, bikes are handier—save your legs for eating and exploring.

Itinerary: Take note, this is a route worth copying: Drum Tower – Shuyuan Street – Stele Forest – Yongxingfang – Hotel siesta – Huifang neighborhood

A “getting-to-know-you” tour: snap photos, soak up the ancient capital’s charm. Shuyuan Street made me envious of Xi’an kids who can attend school in a centuries-old academy. A highlight: at the Stele Forest, I’d recommend teaming up to hire a human guide; kids get it better, and don’t miss the Stele Forest ice cream. Yongxingfang is like any local snack street, gathering famous eats from across Shaanxi, and they often stage events. First-timers will be dazzled—mouth never idle, stomach never enough.

Dining: Top pick: Hampton by Hilton’s breakfast. Not just for the convenient location, but great service and exceptionally high quality! Lots of variety, and they even serve roujiamo on lotus leaf buns with a huge pot of cured pork—superb. Two free-flow drinks all day, perfect for families with kids.

At noon we headed to Yongxingfang to browse Shaanxi snacks. Tempered by the previous night’s food baptism, I was less impulsive. Tried mung bean jelly, Lixian laozao, waxberry-hawthorn iced jelly, and for the main meal, Chengcheng Shuipen—soup a tad salty, but the crescent flatbread was delicious, and the lamb soup hit the spot.

After an afternoon nap, we biked over to the Huifang neighborhood. Honestly, the Hui Min Jie main street is just for a look; for real eats, hit the side lanes. Try the yogurt on Beiguangji Jie, or Grandma Hua’s sour plum drink from Dapiyuan—add laozao for extra zing. Yang’s BBQ: you’ve got to grab your own skewers, one yuan each, fight for them, find a spot (or squat if you have to), eat, then report your tally and pay. The flavor’s genuinely good. In a small alley, Ma Nan’s BBQ: grilled kidneys so tender, and the kicker—one yuan a skewer—tastebuds exploded. Tendons were fragrant, not stringy, and the pickled veggies were spot on. It was only after sitting down that I saw the joint’s online rep wasn’t great (they often miscount skewers), but we dodged that minefield and enjoyed a great meal! Finally, Ma Er’s sour-soup dumplings, which we tacked onto the end—already beyond full, I soldiered on fueled by “I came, I ate.” The place was packed. We ordered half a jin to taste; not bad! Pity that Old Bai Shuipen, which shot to fame on “A Bite of China,” was already closed in the evening (open morning and lunch), so fellow travelers take note. The tiny shopfront with its weathered facade is typical of Huifang.

Day 3, Downtown (South City)

Transport: Took a taxi with luggage; today we checked into Shaanxi Hotel.

Itinerary: Shaanxi History Museum + Western Film Studios Cultural Zone.

The Shaanxi History Museum requires advance booking a week ahead. Enter with your ID card. Free luggage storage is to the west, no time limit. The exhibition halls are arranged chronologically. To the right just inside the east side is the guide booking area—grab a number and queue; you can form a group of up to 10 people, 200 yuan total. The guided tour lasts one hour, but guides walk fast; you have to stay ahead to match explanations with artifacts. They focus on key relics. Afterwards, go back to fill in gaps at your own pace; reverse the hall order for a better experience! The Tang Dynasty Treasures section requires a separate ticket (30 yuan) and is absolutely worth it! The agate cup with an animal head is the only one of its kind in the world—the Chinese government has forbidden it from leaving the country. The gold bowl with mandarin duck and lotus petal motifs, and other gold and silver pieces, are national treasures.

The Western Film Studios Cultural Zone is Xi’an’s cultural leisure hub, a must-see! A paradise for artsy photo-ops; the film art experience area is great for kids, though tickets are a bit pricey. My wife took the kids in while us guys just enjoyed the scenery.

Dining: Again, loved Hampton’s breakfast: milk laozao, rice noodles, and pea shoots to cleanse the palate.

After leaving the Shaanxi History Museum around 2 p.m., we strolled to the famous Ziwulu Zhang’s Roujiamo. Bought three to go. The buns were big, thick, and crispy, the meat fragrant—packed. Then we walked next door to Huzi Shuipen and ordered lamb shuipen and lamb blood with chili and garlic. This time the lamb soup wasn’t salty; the meat was tender and fell apart, and the bread was excellent. So satisfying.

Day 4, Downtown – Xianyang – Baoji

Transport: Self-drive (my cousin’s car; renting a car would also be easy)

Itinerary: Shaanxi Hotel – Xianyang Museum – Famen Temple

We slept in comfortably. A map check showed a hold-up on the highway to Famen Temple due to an accident, so we headed to Xianyang first. The museum is built on the ruins of the Han Dynasty Xianyang Palace and includes five exhibition halls: Qin Culture, Han-Tang Murals, Han Terracotta Warriors, Treasures, and Temporary Exhibitions. Seeing Han terracotta warriors for the first time—never underestimate any museum in Xi’an!

In the afternoon we drove to Famen Temple. I’d been in ’08 and was awestruck; back then you could enter the underground palace, but it was closed that day. Now the whole scenic area is built up lavishly. I suggest driving straight to the museum (maybe called Ticket Office No. 2), which is quite close to the temple. Do not go to the Cultural Scenic Area—do not—it’s way too far, and a round-trip electric cart is 30 yuan per person, a bit of a rip-off. The real core is the temple and museum. The newly built stupa is solemn and imposing. We rushed before 5:30 p.m. to see the Buddha bone relic. After that, our legs were completely shot; we took an electric cart!

Dining: Lunch in Xianyang: Liu’s Guokui Yazi, similar to shuipen but the “yazi” was especially tasty—dry, crispy flatbread with a wheaty aroma. Ordered Xifu Yikouxiang: the broth was delicious, sour and spicy, noodles a bit soft, plus egg laozao. Dinner near Shaanxi Hotel: found a Xinjiang restaurant. Big skewers, pilaf, and first time tasting kvas—a honey/fermented flavor, so good!

Day 5, Downtown – Lintong

Itinerary: Qin Shi Huang Mausoleum Terracotta Warriors + Han Jingdi Yangling Mausoleum + Grand Tang All Day Mall

About fifty minutes’ drive from Xi’an city center to the Terracotta Warriors. Parked and entered the scenic area—sea of people at the gate, and a long, long way from the entrance to the exhibition halls. The electric cart is 5 yuan per person. Too crowded to hire a guide, so I rented an electronic one for 30 yuan, which was reasonable. Parking was 20 yuan, pricey! The warriors are simply awe-inspiring—unique in the world, no more need be said; you have to feel it in person. In Hall 2, the kneeling archer is especially popular. After the tour, on the ground floor we chanced upon a traveling exhibition of artifacts from the Marquis of Haihun’s tomb—a delightful surprise. As reported, gold cakes and all kinds of glittering gold. Exiting the halls, you’re forced to loop through countless souvenir and snack shops—our legs nearly fell off. No electric cart back; you just have to walk the whole loop. The exit touts a free shuttle from the north side of Qin Shi Huang to Lishan Garden; the Qinling Museum actually includes two sites, but it felt like an official hustle. Given the exhausting exit route, we skipped it.

In the afternoon, passing Lintong, we skipped Huaqing Pool (visited once before; unless you see the show, it’s not a must). So we drove straight to Han Jingdi’s Yangling Mausoleum. This was a wonderful surprise I’d found while researching. First time visiting an underground heritage museum: you can walk on glass and look down at the relics in the pits, or go to the lower level and view various pottery figurines right behind glass—dense and stunning. Then we walked to the South Gate Tower ruins and the Yangling stele, heavy with the weight of history. It’s called the Yangling Museum, but it’s really only part of the protected burial pits; the actual imperial tomb hasn’t been excavated. Afterwards, we gazed into the distance, hoping to see “west wind, setting sun, Han Dynasty tomb towers,” but we could only spot the Empress Wang’s tomb nearby. I had to let my imagination fill in the rest. The exhibition hall is far—across a highway south of the ticket office—remember to drive there. Nobody around, just heat, but no complaints! The pottery female figurines’ hairstyles and quirky smiles are the highlights.

After dinner we drove to Grand Tang All Day Mall. The line for the “Tumbler Lady” started forming almost an hour in advance; we couldn’t wait that long and also worried about COVID, so we skipped the crowds. Walking the three kilometers from south to north numbed our legs; too exhausted to take in the sights or watch any shows. From start to finish, a sea of people, neon lights, and raucous noise—all the bustling glory of this world seemed on display right in the mall!

Dining: At lunch we drove to Lintong for Chengcheng Chongbin Lamb Shuipen—superb! Even past 2 p.m. it was packed, mostly post-warriors diners, but turnover was fast. Ordered lamb and tripe shuipen, steamed vegetable and flour mix, quick cold platter, fried mushrooms, kidneys with dipping sauce—the kid didn’t lift his head, so stuffed again! Next door, a shop specializing in stone-baked bread, a Lintong specialty; bought a bag for only 12 yuan.

Dinner at a mall: Xiao Liu Soup Dumplings, another treat from my cousin. Still incredibly full from lunch, I managed a couple of soup dumplings, mildly reminiscent of Wuxi-style, but my appetite was kaput!

Day 6, Downtown (South City)

Transport: Staying at Vienna Hotel north of Giant Wild Goose Pagoda, distances weren’t far, so we took taxis for today’s itinerary.

Itinerary: Qujiang Book City + drive-by Tang Paradise + City Wall

Qujiang Book City is actually the Qujiang branch of Xinhua Bookstore. The first floor’s creative cultural products are really interesting! Second floor has Immortal Coffee; third floor, children’s reading area. The bookstore is very design-forward: a spiral staircase between floors one and two, plus a zigzagging ramp overhead with hanging ancient-style characters—a winding path through a mountain of books leading to an ocean of knowledge!

In the afternoon, we hit the city wall. The area is great for photos—winds howling, banners fluttering—but service is so-so: no notices about which gates are open. The gate we’d planned to exit through was closed, so we were forced to march from gate to gate. We got on at Yongningmen (South Gate) and didn’t get off until Jianguomen. Bike rental was inconvenient too—not every point was open, and by the time we got on (after 6 p.m.) we’d have to return by 7, so we skipped it. The wall: check, photos taken, done!

Dining: Breakfast: Ziwulu Zhang’s Houchun Road branch. Roujiamo was okay, everything else average! Lunch near the bookstore: Fumayuan Shaanbei Iron Pot Lamb. We got a 20-yuan group buy for lamb noodle planks—a big pot of lamb broth, then the planks are torn and dropped into the boiling pot at the table. Small bowl with lamb, spinach, tomato, cilantro—delicious, and enough for the whole family. We passed on the stir-fried potato shreds (too much food) and got lamb skewers instead. Also ordered Shaanbei yellow liquor (hunjiu), served warm—sweet, fermented texture, went down smooth. Evening callback to Chang’an Dapaidang (Fengwu Chaoyang branch), each one has a different theme. Relived the favorites: two orders of Tian Wang You Ta Er, beef pancakes, bangbangrou (pig intestine), Xifu Yikouxiang (saozi noodles), gluten, beef tendons, lamb, plus a bottle of Tsingtao beer. A perfect finale to our food tour.

Day 7, Chang’an – Quancheng

Transport: Train, five and a half hours. We chose the fastest one, and to the old station—easy to get home.

Itinerary: Up at six, took Metro Line 4 to Xi’an North Station. Remember to get a COVID test; in Xi’an, aside from airports and train stations where it’s mandatory, other testing points charge a fee—that’s where you see the superiority of my hometown.

Dining: Simple instant noodles, just fine! Back home to seriously lose weight! On another note, the moment we left Xi’an, the weather forecast warned of high temperatures for days to come. Best wishes to Fei Ge, who’s about to follow my itinerary—have a great trip!