A Months-Long Wellness Journey from Xi'an to Beihai: Flight & High-Speed Rail
The annual snowbird migration has started; the northern cold is unbearable for many seniors, who choose to spend a few months in the south, awaiting the return of spring. They are called "snowbird seniors," and we are among them.
Day 1: Through Ctrip we bought a 420 yuan (including insurance, airport construction fee and fuel surcharge) flight ticket from Xi'an to Nanning. For pandemic control, we did two nucleic acid tests 48 hours in advance (24 hours apart). In the morning before departure, we did another test in our community, then took a taxi for 121 yuan to the airport. Since we arrived early, we had breakfast in the airport VIP lounge, then boarded the flight to Nanning.
After landing in Nanning, we collected our luggage and took a nucleic acid test on arrival, then queued for the free bus to Nanning East Station to catch the high-speed train, which took three hours. Staff guided us smoothly onto the train, and after just over an hour we reached Beihai Station. A 20-yuan taxi ride brought us to our accommodation.
Days 2–3: As required by pandemic control, we had notified our residential community of our arrival time in advance and quarantined at home for three days. Neighbors brought us food, so we were well-fed and worry-free. Epidemic prevention staff came to our door twice for nucleic acid tests; both came back negative. After that, we were told we could go out freely with personal protection measures, just following routine epidemic prevention.
Day 4: First, we headed to the newly built and opened Golden Coast Scenic Boardwalk, a project with a total investment of 160 million yuan. Starting at the Guangdong Road intersection and ending at Seaview Square, it stretches about 1.4 km. The slow lane is 1,589 m long and the sea boardwalk is 923 m. Here, visitors can not only admire the vast golden beach and open sea, but also the beautiful new streetscape of Beihai’s north shore. It’s said that at night, the lights of the buildings along the north shore turn it into a popular photo spot.
We rode electric scooters for half an hour to Seaview Square on Golden Beach. The endless sea stretched before us; under the shade of trees, people strolled, enjoyed outdoor pastimes, danced in square-dancing groups and practised tai chi. Walking on the boardwalk, you have the vast sea on one side and towering seaside buildings on the other. The bridge’s surface is patterned in red, yellow, blue and white – red marks the going-lane, yellow the return-lane, and blue and white are the railings. People were wandering, fishing, taking photos, and live-streaming – so relaxing.
After the boardwalk, not far away is the old street. We found a small restaurant and had a delicious seafood lunch. The owner was very warm, and the price reasonable – 75 yuan per person for oysters, sea crabs, abalone, scallops, pomfret, and seafood fried rice until we were full.
After lunch we rested a while, then rode for another 20 minutes to the newly completed and opened Fengjia River Bridge. The bridge has a total length of 957.194 m, with the bridge structure being 650 m and the embankment 307.194 m. Located in the eastern part of Silver Beach area near the Fengjia River estuary, it cost about 3.8 billion yuan in total investment. It’s an important connection between the north and south banks of the Fengjia River and one of the main corridors for the coastal tourism belt of the east Silver Beach area. Viewed from the side, the bridge arcs like a rainbow straddling both banks; head-on it’s like a dragon soaring skyward. Standing on the bridge, the scenery on both sides is stunning. One side offers the broad estuary with mangroves reflected in blue seawater; the other is a picture of buildings and fishing boats, a fine southern landscape. At sunset, it was even more magnificent – a scene of boundless beauty and promising tomorrow.
After feasting our eyes, we breathed the fresh, lung-cleansing air of Beihai, rich in negative ions, and with a light breeze and early nightfall, we rode back to our place. We sighed that beauty on earth is nothing short of this, and we should cherish the present and enjoy our later years. "Only scenery and delicious food should not be let down." We prayed for the end of the pandemic, for everyone’s health and for all to go well. How fortunate we are!
Day 5: In the morning, a friend invited us to Silver Beach. Silver Beach is a famous 5A tourist attraction in Beihai, divided into four zones: Happy Harbor Bay (Roman Square), Xiuying Tide Carving Zone (Beach Park), Silver Sand Wave-Chasing Zone (Silver Beach Park), and Pingtan Listening Wave Zone (high-end hotel cluster). It stretches about 24 km from east to west, with beach width ranging from 30 to 3,000 m, and an average gradient of only 0.05. The land area is 12 square kilometres, total area about 38 square kilometres – larger than the combined beach areas of Dalian, Yantai, Qingdao, Xiamen and Beidaihe. The sand is formed of high-grade quartz, white, fine and shimmering silver, hence the name Silver Beach. Known as the "Best Beach under Heaven" for its "long flat shore, fine white sand, warm clean water, soft waves and no sharks," the late President Yang Shangkun inscribed the title "Best Beach under Heaven." It can host the largest international beach sports and marine sports events and is southern China’s ideal beach resort and marine sports venue.
Today we rode 15 minutes together to the Silver Sand Wave-Chasing Zone, that is, Silver Beach Park, where the "Best Beach under Heaven" stele stands. Since the park’s renovation, this was our first visit. The entrance looked brand new – stylish and open. Inside, there were no tall buildings, letting the sea and sky merge into one natural picture of sand, gentle waves and carefree strolling.
Due to the pandemic, there weren’t many visitors. We took photos, walked on the beach, waded in the shore, and chatted happily for two hours. We didn’t swim because we were worried about the cool water, but experienced people say it’s perfectly pleasant. On the way back, we stopped at Fengjia River seaside park for a short rest, then our friend treated us to lunch. We had a few drinks, talked about Beihai, and enjoyed a warm, joyful time. After lunch we returned home and promised to meet up again.
After dinner, I took my wife on our scooter back to Silver Beach to enjoy the beautiful sunset. Walking on the fine white sand, with the warm seawater gently washing over our feet, was extremely pleasant.
Day 6: Beihai is a southern coastal city surrounded by the sea on three sides with a long history, so maritime transport is essential, and ports and wharves are indispensable. Beihai Port’s coastline stretches 562 km; it has many natural harbours with open channels, deep and wide waters, and is a starting point of the Maritime Silk Road. Currently a medium-sized port, it's an important gateway for Guangxi. The port area covers about 16 square km; there are 11 wharves, six berths of over 10,000 tons, with a maximum berthing capacity of 35,000 tons. The Guantouling area is its main port zone.
Today we rode half a loop along the coast for about 36 km, getting a feel for the city’s development. The original Beihai passenger port’s services have moved to the new International Passenger Port, and an international cruise home port is under construction. To avoid detours, we first rode about half an hour to Beihai International Passenger Port. This is now the largest passenger terminal, with exotic architecture and a clean, pleasant environment. It has become an integrated service hub for sea passenger transport, city transport, accommodation, dining, and shopping. Routes connect Beihai with Haikou, Weizhou Island, and there are sea sightseeing tours, with an annual throughput of about 350,000 passengers.
Then we rode about 40 minutes to our second stop: the International Cruise Home Port, which is under construction. Located on the scenic west side of Guantouling National Forest Park, it covers over 20,000 square metres and is planned to have a 100,000-ton berth and an annual capacity of 2 million passengers. As a landmark project of Guangxi coastal tourism, it aims to be an international, high-standard, high-quality cruise home port with a modern services cluster, supporting high-end hotels, commercial leisure, dining, entertainment, port services and residential facilities. Once completed, it will boost the Pan-Beibu Gulf economy and be a major breakthrough for Guangxi’s coastal tourism. Because of the pandemic, it is not yet open to the public; we could only gaze at it from a distance.
After another 20-minute ride, we reached the old Beihai Port area in the old town. With its historic patina and bustling activity, the sea breeze carried the fresh scent of fish and prawns – a sign it has become an important cargo port. Tieshan Port and this area are Beihai’s most important cargo ports and distribution centres, shipping goods all over China and the world, with a cargo throughput of over 2 million tonnes. Tieshan Port will become the most convenient sea gateway for southwest China and southeast Guangxi. Due to time constraints, we’ll have to visit that impressive sight another time.
We then rode back home for over 40 minutes, ending a joyful day of Beihai port culture.
Day 7: After Fengjia River Bridge was completed, it’s said to be the best spot for watching the sunrise in the morning. We wanted to experience it too, so at 6 a.m. we set off on our scooter, arriving at the midpoint of the bridge at about 6:40 a.m. The sky was still dark, but many visitors were already gathered, cameras and phones ready to capture the sunrise. We did the same. Through the distant mist, a bright area gradually enlarged. At 7:03, a semi-circle emerged from the sea through the mist, then rose, growing into a perfect round, glowing red and bright with golden light – extremely beautiful and spectacular. With the sea horizon, mangroves, and buildings as a backdrop, it was even more picturesque. People took photos, cheered, and revelled in the moment; seeing such a sight made the whole day full of joy and hope. After about half an hour we rode back home, beginning another day of wonderful wellness life.
Day 8: Watching the sunrise on the new Fengjia River Bridge, we noticed an older bridge further out to sea, lower and closer to the water, with more character. After breakfast, we arranged with friends to ride our scooters for half an hour to experience its special charm.
The old Fengjia River Bridge is about two cars wide, about 300 m long, and around 3 m above the sea. Facing the sea at one end and backed by the Fengjia River, it feels more intimate and grounded. It’s no longer open to traffic; many people fish from it. Much lower than the new bridge, looking up at the new one creates an iconic image: “a bridge soaring from north to south, like a rainbow chain dancing.” Looking out over Fengjia River Park gives a sense of grandeur, mystery and imagination. The seaward side shows the vast sea and large tracts of mangroves, where blue and green blend perfectly under blue sky and white clouds – an earthly masterpiece.
Friends strolled, chatted, admired the scenery, and watched others fishing and celebrating their catches. After an hour we rode off the bridge and spent time taking photos by its side wetlands – so pretty and pleasant. Then a 10-minute ride brought us to nearby Danjia Town for lunch. We bought plenty of seafood at the market, spending 55 yuan per person, and found a small eatery to cook it for us at a processing fee of 20 yuan per person. The meal was sumptuous and the price reasonable. After lunch, we happily returned home to rest. It was truly worthwhile!
Day 9: After breakfast, we set off on scooters towards the old town – a day of exploring historic sites and cuisine.
Twenty minutes later we first arrived at the “Site of the Great Qing Post Office.” Since we hadn’t brought our ID cards, we couldn’t go inside, but we shot some video outside as a keepsake. Just about 20 metres away is the former “Beihai Customs” building; we took photos in its courtyard too. Five minutes later we took photos at the “Former German Trading Firm.” Just outside is the “Former German Consulate,” where we also took photos. Turning the corner, we photographed the “Former British Consulate.” A three-minute ride brought us to the “Former French Consulate,” which shares a compound with a Guangxi restaurant called “San Yue San,” nicely decorated and a good place for hosting friends.
After another five-minute ride we reached the old street and had lunch at a restaurant we often visit. Then we rode 20 minutes back along Beihai’s broad, pleasant roads to our residence. We felt the rich essence of a cultural and wellness journey in Beihai – beautiful scenery, delicious food, culture and history, all in one place.
Day 10 (evening): After dinner, we went for a walk, passing Beihang University Beihai College, an RV camp, and a football training base. It gave us food for thought.
Beihai College of Beihang University is a full-time undergraduate college (independent college) approved by the Ministry of Education and confirmed by the former Commission of Science, Technology and Industry for National Defense, jointly established by Beihang University and the Beihai Municipal Government. Located in Beihai, the campus covers over 1,200 mu, close to the famous Silver Beach. The sea breeze and fresh air make it an ideal place for study. It is said that the college plans to merge with the Beihai campus of Guilin University of Electronic Technology to become Guangxi Ocean University, a full-time public undergraduate institution directly under the Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region.
The adjacent football training base and nearby RV camp offer an ideal habitat for self-driving RV travellers, with all necessary water and electricity, an open, quiet environment, and very convenient transport. Vehicles from all over China are parked there now – a dazzling array of licence plates and RV styles. People are cooking, strolling, chatting, walking dogs – everywhere, a picture of leisure. The football training ground is a perfect venue for youth athlete development; due to the pandemic, training didn’t appear to be in session at the time.
Enjoying the comfortably warm winter night breeze and the beautiful sunset scenery, amidst the recent chorus of “bleating,” on our way back we felt: we are truly fortunate and blessed; let’s cherish and treasure each day well.
Day 10 (morning): After breakfast, with bright sunshine and a pleasant breeze, I hopped on my beloved scooter, brought my wife, and headed to Huayangli. We’d heard there’s a night market there, but because of the pandemic we hadn’t visited; today we wanted to see it in the quiet of the daytime. A 20-minute ride brought us to a place with a different charm. It’s actually a residential development with a sunken square in front, featuring a blend of Western minimalist and European vintage style – bright, elegant, simple yet tastefully adorned. In the evening, it’s a perfect spot for young couples to relax over a drink.
After about an hour of browsing, we rode another 20 minutes to the sales offices of Sanqianhai and Haitang Bay, which we’d visited before. Again we just took in the scenery, thinking, “As long as your heart holds it, beauty is everywhere.” After an hour, we rode half an hour to a small restaurant we often visit, spending 30 yuan per person on rice, stir-fries, fish and meat – so tasty and affordable. After lunch we returned home. Full of hope for Beihai, where green hills, blue sea, rolling waves, sandy beaches, blue skies and white clouds meet, and where every corner offers novel architecture and scenery – a feast for the eyes!
Day 11: In the morning, though sunny, the breeze was a little cool, but that couldn’t stop our desire to go out. I hopped on my scooter, took my wife, and headed to a rural ecological garden on the outskirts. The pandemic had kept us away before, but today we wanted to see it. The 30-minute ride was filled with refreshing breezes and lovely views.
It is said to be Guangxi’s most beautiful farm estate and a national model base for new countryside. The health and wellness garden is located along the middle section of Yintan Avenue, and features special vegetable and fruit areas, a plant zone, camping area, outward-bound training, barbecue, fishing, an amusement park, and a zoo, integrating dining, conferences, accommodation, an RV park, and offering eating, staying, playing, shopping and entertainment. Due to the pandemic, there were few visitors, many shops were closed, and the place felt deserted – yet they still charged a 20-yuan admission.
We just looked around outside for about half an hour, then rode another 30 minutes to a restaurant in Wanda Plaza for lunch. At 42 yuan per person we had farm-style red braised chicken with rice, plus a nutritious hen soup – delicious and very affordable. After lunch we returned home. Today is the last day of 2022. Looking at the beautiful scenery and eating delicious food, I’m full of hope for Beihai and truly grateful for today’s happy life!
So far this trip has lasted 74 days, with a per-person expenditure of 3,320 yuan. It is well worth it!
