Duola's Wonderful Journey: Chang'an Chapter

With the spring breeze, the horse gallops swiftly; in one week, see all the flowers of Chang'an.

Chang'an – that's Xi'an today, one of China's four great ancient capitals, and arguably the foremost. When it comes to the deep roots of Chinese civilization, few places can rival it. Taking advantage of the May Day holiday, I brought Duola to explore this city brimming with heritage.

**Eat:** Xi'an's cuisine, like its culture and history, embraces a vast melting pot of influences, always absorbing the best. Compared to our Jiangnan region, the flavors are heavier – more and bolder spices, fresher and more aromatic lamb, softer and purer pastries. Millennia of refinement have blended into Xi'an's unmistakable taste. Before the trip, I asked friends from Xi'an where to find the best restaurants, and the answer was: every place has its own character, each excels in its own way. Experiencing it firsthand, it's absolutely true. During this trip we ate at four street stalls: a noodle shop outside Huaqing Pool, yangrou paomo (lamb soup with crumbled flatbread) on Sajinqiao, roujiamo (meat sandwich) near the hotel, and a noodle shop by the subway. We also had two meals at chain Shaanxi restaurants inside shopping malls: Zuimei Chang'an and Chang'an Da Paidang, plus one meal at a street-side restaurant. For street food, just find places near residential neighborhoods – they taste amazing. Though the storefronts are small, you get the genuine Xi'an flavor. The mall restaurants are fairly similar, featuring local specialties like rice cakes, brush-shaped pastries, and "Consort's Laugh" (lychee-shaped shrimp balls). I have to mention: Xi'an's lamb is truly excellent. At first, Duola saw the thick coating of cumin and five-spice powder on the skewer and hesitated, but after one bite, she was grabbing them faster than anyone.

**Dress:** Xi'an's weather over May Day was just right – around 20°C, a bit cool in the morning and evening, warmer at noon. A T-shirt plus a jacket works perfectly: comfortable for ancient temples and suitable for climbing Mount Hua.

**Accommodation:** We stayed at an Atour Hotel near Xi'an North Station. The upside: spacious rooms, not too old, clean and tidy. The downside: the location is a bit out of the way, not in the city center. But it's only about 900 meters from Line 2 subway station, no big deal for the young.

**Transport:** Getting around Xi'an is pretty easy, mostly subway plus ride-hailing. Taxis aren't expensive: usually ¥10-20. The priciest ride was from Lintong back to the hotel late at night after watching The Song of Everlasting Sorrow – a business van cost ¥268, but honestly that was still within the mental budget. The subway is reliable, with many stations and easy transfers; you can reach a station within a half-hour walk. But the last trains run too early; it would be better if they went a bit later.

**Special note:** Visiting during May Day, the streets were full of plane tree fluff. Duola chased the drifting fuzzy balls everywhere, and after one round her face was covered in white fuzz, like a little macaque. If you have allergies, definitely bring a mask and antihistamines.

**Our itinerary and tips:**

**April 28:** Took an overnight train to Xi'an to squeeze in an extra day. Since the last subway trains leave around 11 pm, you'll need a taxi or ride-hailing after arrival. We got to the hotel very late, which really cut into the next day's energy, so whether it's worth it depends on your own plan.

**April 29:** Woke up naturally (9:00) – hotel breakfast + lunch (10:00) – subway (10:40) + shuttle bus (11:00) – Terracotta Warriors (12:00–15:00) – shuttle bus (15:30) – dinner (16:00) – Huaqing Pool (16:30–17:30) – taxi (18:00) – The Resurrected Army show (19:00–19:45) – taxi + barbecue (20:00–21:30) – The Song of Everlasting Sorrow (22:10–23:00) – taxi back to hotel.

These sights are in Lintong district. From downtown, transfer to Line 9 at Fangzhicheng station. For the Terracotta Warriors, get off at Huaqing Pool station; there's a free shuttle bus straight to the gate. Both the Terracotta Warriors and Huaqing Pool are best with a guide – the guide costs only ¥10 per person, a real bargain. As the Terracotta Warriors guide said, "Without explanation, you're just looking at clay figurines; with explanation, you're seeing history." Absolutely true. Duola stuck like glue to the guide auntie, eyes and ears wide open. At Huaqing Pool, we arrived late and didn't hire a guide, so it felt like paying ¥120 to stare at a water pit. The Resurrected Army and The Song of Everlasting Sorrow are both live performances. First, The Song of Everlasting Sorrow: a zero-bad-review stage drama recommended by countless people. It runs three shows per night; during May Day they added a fourth, from 7:30 pm till 12:30 am. The stage is right at Huaqing Pool, with Mount Li as the backdrop, using song, dance, props, and lights to tell the passionate but tragic love story of Yang Guifei and Emperor Xuanzong. You need to reserve five days early – "reserve" is really a ticket-snatching battle. Six of us used two phones and spent five hours to grab all six tickets (sometimes you think you got them, even pay successfully, but then the system refunds – you must get that booking SMS). We got three in Zone A, one in Zone B, and two in Zone B. If possible, buy the priciest Central Zone tickets for a better experience. (Duola fell asleep during the scene where Yang Guifei is executed…) Because our Song of Everlasting Sorrow tickets were for 10:30, we had some free time and spontaneously decided to see The Resurrected Army. It depicts the war between Qin and Chu through the eyes of two ordinary soldiers, an immersive stage drama. Upside: novel theme, good design. Downside: chaotic crowd management, dialogue not polished enough. They let in far too many spectators, making scene changes feel like a wet market, with a real risk of stampede. Still, the actors work hard. The ¥268 ticket didn't feel great value; I heard locals can get a serious discount, like more than half off.

**April 30:** Xiaoyan Pagoda + Xi'an Museum + strolling and eating. The original plan: Nature Museum + Xiaoyan Pagoda + City Wall, but because we got back so late the night before and Duola slept until noon, plans changed. We chose Zuimei Chang'an in the Wanda mall near the Nature Museum, and luckily no queue – walk in and eat. This restaurant is recommendable: six of us ate and drank like crazy, even packed half a chicken (though we ended up tossing it), all for under ¥500 – with a discount, only ¥420, great value.

After eating it was past 2 pm, past our booking time for the Nature Museum, so we could only visit Xiaoyan Pagoda and Xi'an Museum. These two are in the same area, and there's also a Chang'an Ancient Music intangible heritage concert – a niche spot, so not too crowded. Honestly, the main reason is we couldn't get tickets for the Shaanxi History Museum, a bit of a regret. Xi'an Museum is just a backup; everyone here is in the same boat. The ancient music was artistically high-level, but we common folk couldn't fully appreciate it – just enjoying the liveliness. Duola's mom fell asleep; Duola, however, listened earnestly and could even tell which was Buddhist music and which was banquet music. For dinner we originally planned Huimin Street, but someone told us it was too crowded, so we went to Sajinqiao. In the end, we hardly ate anything – queues everywhere, a sea of people, and we got squeezed back to the hotel before long. The saying "a hundred million people in Xi'an" isn't an exaggeration.

**May 1:** Daxingshan Temple + strolling and eating. Original plan: Tang Paradise + Dayan Pagoda + Great Tang All Day Mall, but our obsession with Chang'an Da Paidang turned the day into an improvised ramble. As they say, what you lose on the swings you gain on the roundabouts – we added some unique experiences. Woke up naturally, and with the locally highly recommended "Chang'an Da Paidang" in mind, we went for lunch. But at 11:30 am, they were already out of numbers. Out of numbers, friends! The ticket machine had clocked off. We had no choice but to search nearby Shaanxi restaurants and found a small eatery with its own charm, more in tune with local tastes. The hall was packed, and every voice had that Tong Xiangyu accent. It was a meal of Buddhist providence: after eating, we stumbled upon the day's delightful surprise – Daxingshan Temple. Hidden in the city's hustle, it lacks the fame of Dayan Pagoda or the elegance of Xiaoyan Pagoda, yet it offers a precious serenity amid the surging crowds and a millennium of historical allure. Duola bowed to Buddha, made offerings, burned incense, asked for a fortune, turned the prayer wheel, purified her hands, and bought a souvenir. While strolling the temple, I noticed something fascinating: most incense-burners and worshippers were very young. Asking around, we learned this is the Temple of Wisdom – for gaokao, civil service exams, certifications, coming here to pray can lead to a reversal of fortune. Of course, it's psychological comfort; the most important thing is still your own effort. After the temple, stubbornly, we queued two hours at a less crowded branch of Chang'an Da Paidang for dinner, and finally got in. It was… about the same.

**May 2:** Mount Hua. Not much to say about Mount Hua. The bullet train takes about 25 minutes; by bus it's about 1.5 hours. To avoid queues, we took the less-visited north-up-west-down cable car route, around four hours total. Compared to Mount Huang a year ago, Duola's stamina improved a lot – she climbed the whole way on all fours where needed. Food is available on the mountain, prices not too high. Details later in pictures.

**May 3:** Return trip + homework…

**Summary:** This trip cost ¥11,000 total: accommodation ¥2,800, round-trip transport ¥3,500, various shows, tickets, cable cars about ¥3,000, and food was actually quite cheap. The people of Xi'an are incredibly warm – whether shop assistants, drivers, guides, or random passers-by, they all reflect the depth and quality of a historic city. When it's less crowded, we'll come back to tick off the things we missed this time.

Now, picture time – image-heavy, beware on slow connections:

**Day 1 – Arrival**

Deep into the night, so not many people getting off.

First impression of Xi'an North Station: not that big.

Handsome Xiaogeli and beautiful Boss Yang came to pick us up late at night – many thanks~

Atour Hotel near Xi'an North: clean room, spacious, quite comfortable.

**Day 2: Terracotta Warriors**

Street below the hotel, not city center so not crowded. The roses by the roadside were stunning.

Beiyuan Station: not many people, it's the suburbs.

The subway station was spotless.

As mentioned, Xi'an's subway is very convenient, but when crowded they limit entry, which is rare.

Most people are visitors coming from the train station.

Approaching the city center – BOOM, crowd explosion.

The Terracotta Warriors audio guide earpiece: a must.

The main gate: now all online booking, just scan your ID card – very convenient.

According to the guide, today's entry was 68,000 people…

Getting to the front isn't easy.

Looking at people, not clay figurines.

Finally squeezed into the first row.

A thousand faces, guarding for a thousand years.

At first glance it's truly awe-inspiring, and this is just a tiny, tiny part.

So foreigners envy us for our millennia of history and culture, but we also need to look forward – lagging behind means being beaten.

Duola stuck to the guide the whole time; she held onto one sentence: knowledge changes destiny.

Here's the restoration area – I actually think the figurines here are still colored.

Their pedestals bear names, maybe theirs, maybe their makers'.

This is Pit Two, all unexcavated, but Duola insisted on going in because…

…there's ice cream inside…

Online joke: the most careful observation of the Terracotta Warriors is courtesy of this ice cream.

Pit Three: chariots and broken figurines.

Approaching dusk, still crowds flooding in.

The noodle shop outside Huaqing Pool – the boss was super welcoming.

For roujiamo, if you don't eat pork skin, order lean meat; but fatty gives that fragrance.

Biang biang noodles and liangpi cold noodles.

Not spicy, but still heavy on the palate.

Duola loves noodles best; Xi'an was a noodle feast these days.

Sculpture at Huaqing Palace gate – Duola said it looks like DNA.

Small pond at Huaqing Palace gate.

The Everlasting Sorrow stage, testing equipment for the night.

Washing the jade pendant bought that afternoon at the Terracotta Warriors.

The Great Qin Theatre, watching The Resurrected Army.

Behind that door is the stage.

The scenes are quite impressive.

Performers were fully immersed.

Photo with the lead actor.

Heading to the day's – no, the trip's – highlight: The Song of Everlasting Sorrow.

Murals at the entrance.

A daughter of the Yang family grown up, kept in the inner chambers, unknown to the world.

Natural beauty could not be hidden, one day chosen to stand beside the emperor.

One glancing smile, a hundred charms born, put the palace ladies' powder and paint to shame.

Spring chill bestowed bathing at Huaqing Pool, warm spring water smoothed her creamy skin.

Spring nights too short, the sun rose high; from then on, the emperor missed morning court.

Banquets and pleasures left no idle time; spring outings, spring nights devoted just to her.

Three thousand beauties in the rear palace, three thousand loves poured solely on her.

In a gold chamber, adorned to serve the night; at jade-tower banquets, drunk with spring.

Towers and palaces filled with dust and smoke, a thousand chariots, ten thousand horsemen heading southwest.

Imperial procession halted, a hundred li from the west gate.

The army would not advance; no choice – the butterfly-like lady died before the horses' hoofs.

Ornaments scattered, no one to pick them up – kingfisher feathers, gold birds, jade hairpins.

Through long years, life and death parted; her spirit never came into dreams.

A Taoist priest from Lingqiong traveled to the capital, with sincerity could summon her spirit.

At parting, he brought her heartfelt words of a pledge known only to two hearts.

On the seventh day of the seventh month, in the Hall of Longevity, at midnight, whispered secrets.

In heaven, let us be two lovebirds flying wing to wing; on earth, two trees with branches intertwined.

Heaven and earth may pass, but this regret will never end.

**Day 3: Strolling and eating**

Brush-shaped pastries and cold cakes at Zuimei Chang'an.

The two kids devoured the brush pastries – perhaps writing essays will flow more swiftly after this?

This chicken was actually good; sweet-and-sour pork was so-so; chicken feet a bit spicy.

"Consort's Laugh" also vanished instantly.

Xiaoyan Pagoda park, not many people.

Under dappled shade, signs and maps.

It doesn't count if you don't eat a cultural ice cream.

Concert hall at the foot of Xiaoyan Pagoda.

Grandpas and grannies played with total devotion.

Xi'an Museum, the backup for the Shaanxi History Museum. Inside, right at the entrance, a huge diorama of ancient Chang'an.

It also has plenty of unearthed relics.

The guide said, when digging Xi'an's subway, archaeology teams and construction crews worked side by side.

Here's the museum treasure.

Ancient weapons – the Qin conquered six states with these unstoppable blades. Science and technology make a strong nation.

Is this the "tiger tally"? It commanded thousands of troops.

5:30 pm, they closed right on time; felt a bit inflexible.

Xiaoyan Pagoda truly lacks the drawing power of Dayan Pagoda – maybe because Xi'an has so many relics, it's undervalued.

A battle through the crowd at Sajinqiao for dinner.

Witness the May Day human tide.

**Day 4: Daxingshan Temple**

Duola said this Buddha looks fierce, but "I'm a good kid, he shouldn't be fierce to me."

Someone put up White Rabbit candies; then I'll offer my precious Changbiwang snack (I don't have money for QR code payment yet…).

Turn and turn, turning away bad luck…

The whole family drew "Up" or "Double Up" fortunes – good luck, huh.

So quiet here, not many people. Even the turtle slept sprawled out.

Pigeons dropped "meteorites" on heads, but no one noticed.

I focused on explaining this wall to Duola; she remembered "Think thrice before acting, remain calm and composed." – though for how long, I don't know.

A serene Buddhist sanctuary hidden in the city, no entrance fee.

Not many visitors, nor many monks.

A little like our Thousand Buddha Pagoda back home.

Duola circled it again and again.

A small pavilion at the gate offers free incense.

And right at this gate I queued for two hours.

Finally got in.

They say sometimes there are stage performances, but we didn't catch one.

Duola snatched one piece and ate it before I could take a photo.

Biang biang noodles are a must-order.

This thin noodle was also delicious.

Six big bowls – tasty, but still a bit hard on the non-local palate. Oh, the sweet-and-sour ribs were quite good.

Actually the seating hall is big, just the May Day crowd.

Signature landmark: Lotus Monument.

Taxi from here to Huashan North Station costs about ¥15, but with big crowds you can't get a car – ended up paying ¥20.

Patriotic education: Taking Mount Hua by Strategy.

Queue for the north cable car, about 40 minutes. I heard the west side queue took 1.5 hours.

Almost there!

Below the bridge, water absolutely roaring.

Looking up at cliffs and sheer walls.

The north cable car was built earlier, so it's a bit old.

I truly admire these laborers – salute to them on Labor Day.

Compared to Mount Huang, it has a distinct sheer peril.

Walking up the mountain is that route.

Since ancient times, only one road up Mount Hua.

The mountaintop welcomes us with Mount Hua's Guest-Greeting Pine.

Gloves and hiking poles ready – let's go!

One hand on the chain, the other on the pole, textbook style.

Successfully summited North Peak; behind is Central Peak.

Seems a bit far and high.

North Peak is about 1,800 m; looking north, it's still a view of many tiny mountains.

Different from Mount Huang: here it's all massive rock faces.

Ear-Rubbing Cliff – said to be so narrow that two people passing must touch faces and rub ears, hence the name.

Duola was surprisingly energetic today.

Next stop: Canglong (Azure Dragon) Ridge, one of Mount Hua's most dangerous spots.

First, some bread to refuel.

Glance back at North Peak.

That's West Peak over there.

Here comes Canglong Ridge.

Lots of love pledges here.

Halfway up Canglong Ridge, face all red.

Last steps, all limbs engaged.

Looking back – not easy at all.

Golden Lock Pass, symbolizing the summit of Central Peak.

Duola was too tired for West Peak, so we two men continued to East Peak.

East Peak is normally for sunrise, but it's already afternoon.

Sparrow Hawk's Flip – queue 1 hour, had to give up.

Long Rainbow Cableway – queue 1 hour, also gave up.

South Peak's summit right before the eyes.

A Taoist retreat place.

South Peak's summit also has a Guest-Greeting Pine.

This is said to be the highest point among the Five Great Mountains.

Truly a view of all the other peaks made small.

West Peak – reached, check!

Descent cable car queue about 20 minutes.

Not too bad, not insanely crowded.

West Peak cable car was built in 2013, exactly ten years old, still fairly new. Compared to North Peak, it's even more precipitous.

You can see the sunset glow.

A bit of aesthetic fatigue.

Mount Huang is all pines; here, pines seem fewer.

Cable car gliding over another mountain.

Not much rain lately, the riverbed is a bit dry.

Green waters and lush mountains are invaluable assets.

West Gate mountain entrance arrived.

Back at the gate for a commemorative photo.

One more, still holding a ladylike pose.

Mount Hua sword contest – Beggars' Sect male and female disciples.

This day we walked over 30,000 steps – incredible, my Duola!

**The last day – Going home**

Reluctant to leave Xi'an's biang biang noodles.

Third-grade primary schooler, time for homework!

That's the end of the Xi'an photo barrage. Thanks, dear readers, for your attention. Where is Duola's next stop? Mount Lu or Mount Tai?