Climbing Mount Tai, Admiring Famous Lakes, and Exploring Grasslands: A 12-Day Leisurely Journey Through Shandong and Inner Mongolia by Train and Plane
I’ve visited Shandong and Inner Mongolia before, yet I had never set foot on Mount Tai, leaving me with a faint sense of regret. Now, in the finest season, I booked a train sleeper to Mount Tai for 260 yuan and a hotel for 140 yuan.
D1. My wife and I set off from home by subway (4 yuan) to Xi’an Railway Station. Newly renovated, the station retains its Qin-style ancient charm while pulsating with fresh life, exuding the majesty of an imperial capital. Along the way, we passed through Shaanxi, Henan, Jiangsu, Hebei, and Shandong, savoring the shifting scenery beyond the window. On the train, we settled our hunger with instant noodles, eggs, and side dishes for 18 yuan. Thirteen hours later, we arrived at Mount Tai Railway Station just before midnight. Our hotel was 500 meters ahead of the station; after a few minutes’ walk, we paused for a bowl of beef noodle soup (12 yuan) and checked into the hotel next door to rest.
Mount Tai, the foremost of the Five Sacred Mountains, lies in Taishan District, Tai’an City—a small city of about 800,000 residents spanning nearly 300 square kilometers. The scenic area is a realm of undulating ridges, deep valleys, and towering peaks. Its highest point, Jade Emperor Peak, rises 1,532.7 meters, making it the tallest summit in Shandong. Surrounding it are low hills and alluvial plains with relatively flat terrain—hence the awe-inspiring feeling when you stand atop and gaze down, truly "ascending the summit, all other mountains dwindle below."
D2. After breakfast, we left the hotel and followed the main road toward Mount Tai. Forty minutes later, we reached the Tianwai Village entrance at the foot of the mountain. I bought a walking stick for 5 yuan, ready to take the cable car up. But we were told the cable car here was shut for maintenance, and we could detour to Taohuayu cableway instead. We decided to go the next day. On the walk back, we admired the park scenery and streetscapes, then stopped at a small eatery to sample local snacks and drinks for 79 yuan before a nap. When extending our stay, the hospitality of Shandong surprised us: the hotel staff noticed I’d booked at a slightly higher rate and proactively helped me rebook via phone, saving me dozens of yuan. That afternoon, we went to a supermarket and bought fruit and snacks for the mountain, spending 152 yuan. Shandong’s warmth delivered another surprise: my glasses broke, and at an optical shop, they fixed them on the spot—free of charge—and even invited me to sit and served tea. For dinner, we ate at a small nearby restaurant (93 yuan).
D3. After breakfast, we took a taxi (28 yuan) to the Taohuayu cable car entrance. The scenic area ticket plus a one-way shuttle bus cost 35 yuan (half-price for seniors); the one-way cable car was 150 yuan (100 yuan for seniors). The ride up treated us to gorgeous aerial views, and we easily ascended to the Heavenly Street. Walking along this seemingly ordinary commercial lane gave a distinct flavor, vividly showcasing the toil of mountain porters. Past Heavenly Street, we climbed steps and soon reached the South Heavenly Gate, and a short walk beyond brought us to the much-frequented Jade Emperor Peak. Gazing out from here, the land spread beneath us in a sweeping panorama—green hills rolling under blue sky and white clouds—truly spectacular. The verse "Ascending the summit, all other mountains dwindle below" felt utterly real. One could say: "Roaming through Qin, Yu, Su, Qi, Lu; harmonizing heaven, earth, humans, spirits with blessings. Ancient emperors performed Fengshan rites on Mount Tai; today’s Five Mountains share a different likeness."
Descending, we took a bus back to the hotel (4 yuan) and savored local dumplings at a nearby eatery (86 yuan). As the saying goes, "Nothing beats lying down; nothing beats dumplings."
D4. After breakfast, we boarded a train from Mount Tai to Jinan (12 yuan). The one-hour ride brought us to Jinan Railway Station. Our hotel (150 yuan) was 500 meters ahead; we walked there in minutes. Jinan, dubbed the City of Springs, is the capital of Shandong Province, a large sub-provincial city spanning over 10,000 square kilometers with nearly 10 million people.
After settling in, we took a bus (2 yuan) to visit the old street area "Daguan Garden." Its architecture brims with vintage charm, though it’s basically a commercial district. We had traditional Jinan cuisine there for 45 yuan at noon. In the afternoon, we hopped on a shared bike to explore, soaking up the profound Qilu cultural flavor in Jinan’s old lanes and new roads. Quancheng Park on the outskirts is a landscaped botanical garden with a prime location and lovely natural environment—a favorite leisure spot for locals and the largest urban park in China. Wulongtan Park, opposite the north gate of Baotu Spring, is part of the Baotu Spring group. Its scenic beauty and rich history, with tangible relics and stories, make it a delightful place for garden appreciation, flower viewing, and water play.
Daming Lake is Jinan’s largest city water park. We purposely switched to a hotel right across from its north gate, allowing us to stroll there effortlessly in the evening—all free public amenities.
D5. After breakfast, we took a taxi (12 yuan) to Baotu Spring. The ticket was 40 yuan (half-price for over 60s). Reputed as the "First Spring Under Heaven," Baotu Spring sits in central Jinan, a national 5A scenic spot focused on springs and cultural landscapes. It is the emblem of Jinan, hence the nickname "City of Springs." Here also stands the former residence of Li Qingzhao, the famed female poet of the Song Dynasty—a delicate and elegant exhibition hall with wax figures recreating her era. Large ancient building complexes and numerous stone inscriptions carry poems by renowned figures through the ages. Pavilions, terraces, stone tables, and benches invite visitors to rest and enjoy the springs. Emperor Kangxi and Emperor Qianlong once sat by the water here, sipping tea and admiring the view. The garden’s shimmering spring pools, gilded pavilions, tranquil environment, and delightful scenery form a wonderland that enchants every soul.
We played until noon, then took a taxi (10 yuan) to the ancient city area around Baihuatan. The Baihuazhou historical and cultural block lies in the old city center, the core of Jinan’s natural, humanistic, and traditional culture. It’s the heart of the commercial district defined by "A city of hills and half a city of lakes." Traditional lanes are well-preserved, and heritage architecture abounds. Visitors frequently recall a popular line: "Your Majesty, do you still remember Xia Yuhe by Daming Lake?" Actually, the tale isn’t invented by the TV drama; it’s a folk legend. In Baihuazhou, a creek called "Yuhe Creek," a lane named "Yuhe Lane," and a courtyard known as "Yuhe Residence" commemorate the love story of Xia Yuhe and Emperor Qianlong.
A tea for an emperor, endless thoughts for common folk. My emotions overflowed while visiting Daming Lake: (Strolling by Daming Lake, seeking traces of Xia Yuhe, savoring treats on Furong Street—a leisurely Jinan sojourn.)
Legend says Emperor Qianlong, accompanied by Minister Liu Luoguo (Liu Yong), came to admire lotus flowers at Daming Lake. Wandering the lanes and alleys, they reached Qushuiting Street, where arched bridges, gurgling springs, and lush green water plants created a special charm. Someone was playing the zither; following the sound, Qianlong found a beautiful maiden performing "High Mountains and Flowing Water" by the shore. He approached and conversed with her—she was Xia Yuhe.
As emperor, Qianlong was handsome, talented, and commanding. Xia Yuhe, a well-bred lady skilled in music, chess, calligraphy, and painting and also beautiful, fell into a vortex of love. From then on, they spent every day together—admiring flowers, composing poetry, playing music, painting, and boating on Daming Lake inseparable, lost in a timeless romance.
Liu Yong advised the emperor, "Find leisure in a chess game; seek quiet in brewing tea," urging him to return to the capital and govern. Though reluctant, Qianlong told Xia Yuhe he must leave. Heartbroken yet understanding, she left him a poem: "You shall be like a boulder, I like the cattail grass. The grass is tenacious as silk, the boulder unyielding." Qianlong sighed and promised to send for her once back in Beijing.
While waiting, the wealthy Zhang family’s son sought her hand, distressing the Xia household. Learning of this, Liu Yong crafted a plaque inscribed “Zhilan Di” and had it hung at the Xia’s gate. The plaque awed the people of Jinan—who would dare to provoke a family honored by the emperor’s trusted minister? Today, the courtyard of “Zhilan Di” has become the "Baihuazhou Theater."
With Qianlong’s departure, the willows stayed green but the grasses yellowed for Xia Yuhe. After over a decade of longing, she fell ill and passed away. Some call Qianlong heartless, but it’s not entirely so. Folk tales jest, but Jinan’s history holds deeper meaning.
Lunch was a simple affair in a small eatery in the old town (18 yuan per head). Then we took a taxi back for 10 yuan and rested.
D6. After breakfast, we stepped out of the hotel; directly across the road lies the north gate of Daming Lake Scenic Area. A leisurely walk revealed a tapestry of sights. The lake covers 58 hectares, a natural water body and a national 5A tourist attraction open to the public free of charge. The area’s historic structures—"one pavilion, three gardens, three towers, four ancestral halls, six islets, seven bridges, ten pavilions"—exude elegance and grandeur. Strolling and sightseeing here vividly revive the spring city’s hallmark: "lotus flowers on three sides, willows on all; a city of hills, half a city of lake." Daming Lake Park has evolved into a multi-functional tourist zone blending sightseeing, shopping, entertainment, culture, and dining, harmonizing modernity with classical charm.
Through shaded paths and over small bridges, we walked from the north gate to the south gate, crossed the road, and revisited the Baihuazhou historical block. For lunch, we picked a small eatery—delicious, reasonably priced, and thoroughly satisfying (59 yuan per head). After lunch, a 10-yuan taxi took us back to rest. With an evening train ahead, we extended the room by 3 hours as a day-stay (60 yuan). For dinner, we ate at a bun shop downstairs, enjoying authentic Jinan buns with unlimited congee for 3 yuan—a real bargain at 12 yuan per head. Satisfied, we boarded the train at the nearby Daming Lake Station for Hohhot, the capital of Inner Mongolia.
D7. Our two sleeper berths (260 yuan total) for the Jinan–Hohhot train were not in the same carriage. I tentatively asked a young man nearby if he’d swap; Shandong’s hospitality struck again: he readily agreed, even offering his lower bunk for my middle one without taking the price difference. I was deeply grateful! After a 15-hour journey, we reached Inner Mongolia’s capital, Hohhot. Our hotel (150 yuan per room per day) was just 100 meters to the right from the station exit, with a spacious, bright lobby and an attached travel agency—very convenient. The room was clean, comfortable, and well-equipped.
Hohhot, abbreviated as Hushi, means "Blue City" in Mongolian. Formerly known as Guisui and also called Qingcheng, it’s the "Milk Capital of China." As the capital of Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region, it boasts a long history and brilliant culture—a national historical and cultural city, one of the cradles of Chinese civilization, birthplace of the Hu Fu Riding and Shooting reform, destination of Wang Zhaojun’s departure beyond the frontier, the Xianbei Tuoba clan’s origins, a trading hub for Mongol-bound merchants, and a frontier where nomadic and agricultural civilizations met, clashed, and fused. Today it’s a vital link connecting the Yellow River Economic Belt, the Eurasian Land Bridge, and the Bohai Economic Rim, and a key city opening up to Mongolia and Russia. Its total area is nearly 20,000 square kilometers, with about 3.5 million people.
After settling in, we went downstairs for lunch (44 yuan). In the hotel lobby, we booked a two-day grassland tour with the travel agency for 300 yuan each, then rested for the next day’s adventure.
D8. After breakfast, we checked out and stored our luggage at the agency. A minivan transferred us to the bus meeting point, and about two hours later, we arrived at Xilamuren Grassland. Our guide joked, "If you can’t remember the name, just think of it as ‘xixi lala meiren de caoyuan’ (a sparsely populated grassland)," haha. The scenery outside was lovely, the drive swift, and indeed there were few people or cars—proving the guide’s point. Actually, Xilamuren means "Yellow River" in Mongolian.
Upon arrival, we were warmly greeted by girls in red Mongolian costumes, offering hada scarves and welcome wine. They then arranged for us to choose riding helmets and go horseback riding or take a carriage ride on the grassland. I learned a few tips from the lead rider; it was my first time on a horse. I barely tugged the reins, letting the horses cluster and canter at will, freely roaming across the broad, flat plains—a delightful, breezy ride. We reached Aobao Mountain and admired the boundless grassland scenery, intoxicated by the view.
After over an hour, we regrouped and headed to Hongge’er Grand Aobao. Built during the time of Genghis Khan’s brother Khasar, it has a history of over 400 years and is an important core scenic spot. It recreates 13th-century Mongolian life, highlighting their original religious beliefs and the military city of the Mongol army. We walked up a wooden boardwalk of over 200 meters to the grand aobao platform—a "soul of the grassland" in Mongolian herders’ hearts, a stone mound built to commemorate heroic warriors, containing relics of the fallen. It serves as an altar for praying to heaven for rain and a grassland landmark. We followed local custom, circling the aobao three times to pray for a smooth journey, health, and happiness.
After the aobao, we entered an even more stunning equestrian show square. Over 2,000 spectators filled the stands for the grand live horseback drama "Legend of the Mo Nan," performed by more than 100 grassland riders. Our guide said it had been staged for central leaders and was truly spectacular! With majestic music and grand scenes, it recreated the Mongolian people’s peace-loving yet brave spirit in the face of strong enemies, and the triumphant celebrations of returning warriors. This 40-minute show vividly portrayed their growth, conquest, and achievements during Genghis Khan’s era. The riders’ superb individual and group skills, their bold and fierce character portrayal, and the massive cavalry formation powerfully evoked the image of ancestors galloping across the steppe 800 years ago—a thrilling, moving spectacle that left us spellbound.
After the show, we drove to a large Mongolian yurt cluster for the night. Although built of concrete, they retained traditional Mongolian charm externally, while inside they were modern hotels with full amenities. Our guide arranged for us to attend the "Zha Ma Feast" that evening. Including all day’s activities, the per-person cost was 980 yuan—seemingly pricey but worth it.
The Zha Ma Feast is a unique celebratory banquet featuring a whole ox or sheep. "Zha Ma" refers to a fully depilated whole animal—slaughtered, scalded, eviscerated, then roasted or boiled and served to be shared. Originating in the Yuan Dynasty, it evolved into a lavish court feast for royalty, ministers, and close attendants. Participants dressed in opulent Mongolian royal attire for a festive blend of feasting, singing, dancing, games, and competitions—the most luxurious and grand banquet of its time. We were lucky to experience it, eating and drinking while watching performers vividly showcase warm, uninhibited Mongolian culture and heritage through language and song. Many guests joined in the fun, and being part of it firsthand on this grassland tour was a feast for our eyes and palates, filling us with joy.
After the banquet, a bonfire party was planned but canceled due to evening rain and cold, leaving a slight regret.
D9. After breakfast, we took the bus back to our original hotel. The travel agency owner rebooked this hotel for us, saving dozens of yuan compared to our own booking—very grateful! After settling in, resting, and lunch, we hopped on shared bikes to explore the city at leisure—a very pleasant experience. The Hohhot Museum, the Qing Dynasty Suiyuan City Fu’an Gate ruins, the Inner Mongolia Great Hall of the People, Times Square, the railway station, and streetscapes all became stunning sights through my lens.
The Hohhot Museum (White Horse Hall), built in 1957, is a historic landmark in the city center, a protected cultural relic of the autonomous region. Its roof features a galloping white horse statue, earning it the nickname “White Horse Museum.” Covering 12,000 square meters with a building area of 5,400 and exhibition space of 3,650 square meters, it offers free admission.
Across the road lies the Qing Dynasty Suiyuan City Fu’an Gate ruins, now a small square and park. The original ruins are gone, but the modern structures have a unique style. Nearby stands the magnificent Inner Mongolia Great Hall of the People, not open to the public, so I snapped a distant photo. Times Square turned out to be a large shopping mall—I didn’t enter, but its golden exterior was impressive. The railway station seemed much like before, with added buildings and services around. In my foreigner’s eyes, the street scenes had a distinct charm.
Dinner at a small eatery across from the hotel (23 yuan), then back to rest for the next day.
D10. After breakfast, we took Metro Line 2 (3 yuan) to Inner Mongolia University South Campus exit C, then a taxi (15 yuan) to Zhaojun Museum. The museum, also called Zhaojun Tomb or “Green Mound,” is the recorded and legendary burial site of Wang Zhaojun, the beautiful Han dynasty concubine. It lies on the south bank of the Dahei River, nine kilometers south of Hohhot. Dating back to the Western Han period, the tomb is a rammed-earth structure shaped like an inverted bucket, 33 meters tall with a base of about 13,000 square meters—over 2,000 years old and one of China’s largest Han tombs. It is a national 4A scenic spot and key protected cultural relic, covering nearly 700 mu.
Entering, a main path leads straight to the tomb on the back hill. The first sight is a white jade statue of Zhaojun—graceful, beautiful, flowing robes like a fairy descending to earth. Next is a painted statue of Zhaojun and the Chanyu on horseback, the Chanyu gazing tenderly at her while she responds with a demure smile. To the left is the Chinese Ancient Heqin Culture Hall, to the right a video exhibition hall. On the hillside of the tomb, steles inscribed by emperors, officials, and literati across dynasties reflect the enduring reverence and admiration for Wang Zhaojun, one of ancient China’s Four Great Beauties, known as the "Fallen Swallow Goddess."
Wang Zhaojun, whose given name was Qiang, styled Zhaojun, and childhood name Haoyue, was from Zigui, Nan County of Western Han (today’s Xingshan County, Hubei). At twenty, for national unity and righteousness, she answered the emperor’s summons, traveling far to marry Huhanye, the Chanyu of the southern Xiongnu vassal state, leaving behind the beloved story "Zhaojun Departs the Frontier." Today, her tomb shines like a radiant pearl on the northern grasslands, a world-renowned tourist destination. Besides ancient relics, there are replica scenes of her hometown, garden pavilions, creeks, and ponds, plus birdsong, floral fragrance, and unique cultural sights—poetic and picturesque, utterly enchanting. After about two hours, we took a taxi back to the metro (20 yuan), rode for 3 yuan, and rested at the hotel. Lunch again at the small eatery opposite (48 yuan).
In the afternoon, we cycled shared bikes for about 20 minutes to Qingcheng Park. Located in central Hohhot, it’s a comprehensive cultural and recreational park covering 44.82 hectares with 80.8% greenery—the main city’s natural “green lung.” Towering willows and poplars, blooming flowers, birdsong, and wide lake waters define it. In the lake’s center, a pavilion-topped islet gleams; clear, rippling waters host white and colored swans swimming freely. Locals sing, dance, stroll, and exercise here, thoroughly enjoying themselves. We stayed until the starry night, then rode shared e-bikes back in 10 minutes.
D11. After breakfast, a short shared bike ride brought us to the General’s Office Site Museum. Built in the 4th year of Qianlong’s reign (1739), the General’s Office is a significant historic site and key protected cultural relic in Hohhot. It was the supreme authority commanding the Eight Banner garrisons of Manchu, Mongolian, and Han troops and overseeing military and administrative affairs of the northwest. The Suiyuan General was a first-rank border official of the Qing court, stationed here as a national grand marshal. After liberation, it housed the Suiyuan Provincial and Inner Mongolia People’s Government. Covering 26,400 square meters, after extensive renovation, it now serves as a multi-functional museum open free to all, showcasing ancient architecture and regional history, re-creating the grandeur of the "First Office of Monan."
After a two-hour visit, we cycled back to the hotel. Following lunch and a rest, we biked to Princess Mansion Park—a regional cultural park where pink peach blossoms, graceful willows, winding paths, and pine-scented elegance soothe the spirit. There is also a monument to fallen anti-Japanese soldiers, inspiring solemn respect. Seventy-four years ago, officers and men of the 59th Corps fought a bloody 15-hour battle; 367 sacrificed heroically for victory. To honor them, 203 recovered remains were buried here and this monument erected, commemorating their eternal glory.
An hour later, we returned to the hotel and prepared for the next day.
D12. After breakfast, a short taxi ride (10 yuan) took us to Dazhao Wuliang Temple. Its Chinese name is Wuliang Temple (meaning "Boundless Measure"), its Mongolian name “Ikh Zuu” meaning “Great Temple.” Located in the city center, it was founded in 1579 (7th year of Wanli, Ming Dynasty) by Altan Khan, leader of the Tumed Mongols, and is Hohhot’s earliest Lamaist monastery, belonging to the Gelugpa (Yellow Hat) sect. Legend says it was an imperial family temple; Emperor Kangxi once stayed here, making it one of the few monasteries in Inner Mongolia without a living Buddha. Covering over 30,000 square meters with more than 8,000 square meters of buildings, it enshrines a silver Buddha, hence also called “Silver Buddha Temple.” The seated Sakyamuni silver statue in the main hall, over 400 years old and cast from pure silver, stands 3 meters tall—one of China’s largest surviving silver Buddhas. More than a Buddhist sanctuary, Dazhao is a world-famous tourist attraction. Its splendid monastery architecture, precious artifacts and artworks, and mysterious cham dance and Buddhist music form its unique “monastery culture.”
The climate on this frontier city proved highly changeable. When we entered the temple, the sun blazed, making us sweat profusely; arriving at the main hall, a sudden downpour struck, lasting nearly an hour. This gave us more time to linger inside and observe.
After the rain, we strolled to the west side of Dazhao, where a well-preserved Ming-Qing style street stands—blue bricks, gray tiles, flying eaves, and bracket sets. Favored by the film industry, it serves as a location for period dramas. Antiques, calligraphy, jade, Mongolian leather paintings, bronzeware, and handicrafts here are renowned far and wide. There’s also a food street, gathering specialties from across the land, especially local delights, with uniquely decorated stalls offering attentive service and mouthwatering aromas—a popular social media check-in spot. After visiting the temple, we explored the “Saishang Old Street,” glimpsing the past and present, and indulged in the much-anticipated local snacks. Though a tourist area, trying various treats only cost 110 yuan—reasonable and good value.
After about three hours of sightseeing and eating, a 10-yuan taxi brought us back to rest.
D13. With several days of intense travel behind us, we slept in naturally. After a 9-yuan brunch, we packed and checked out. We took the metro (5 yuan) to the airport, had a cold drink and snack (8 yuan), and then flew back to Xi’an for 382 yuan.
At the T3 terminal, I was stunned and moved by the 100-meter-long, 2-meter-high painting "The Great Qinling: Backbone of China." It showcases Qinling scenery from Tongguan east to Taibai west, embodying the mountains’ rich history and contemporary spirit. Created collectively by over twenty talented young painters, with renowned artists Cui Zhenkuan, Zhang Zhenxue, and Zhao Zhenchuan as art advisors, it features a postscript by famous writer Jia Pingwa, vice chairman of the China Writers Association, and a title inscription by Lei Zhenmin, vice chairman of the Shaanxi Federation of Literary and Art Circles. The artwork is elegant yet robust, majestic yet free, using poetic brushstrokes and imagery to praise the great Father Mountain and bless the motherland. I was delighted to behold it by chance—snapped photos and admired it!
We took the airport bus back downtown (25 yuan), then a taxi home (20 yuan), concluding this precious journey of mountains, waters, and grasslands. Per-person spending was about 2,500 yuan—well worth it!
