Xi’an to Xining: A 5-Day Train & High-Speed Rail Trip to Visit Friends and Family

Having visited Qinghai Lake before, I still deeply yearned for Xining and Tar Temple. When a friend invited me to visit family and friends on the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, I felt delighted, expectant, and a touch of mystery. I booked a sleeper train for over ten hours' journey, made some preparations, bought two boxes of Rhodiola Rosea oral liquid and Zhenyuan capsules, and began taking them as directed to prevent possible altitude sickness.

Day 1: After breakfast, we took bus and subway to the train station, departing for Xining, the capital of Qinghai Province. After over ten hours, passing through Shaanxi, Gansu, and Qinghai, we arrived in Xining in the evening. Our friend was already waiting there. We took photos, then took a taxi together to the friend’s home. The warm welcome, dinner, catching up, arranging our accommodation, and discussing tomorrow’s itinerary—all their thoughtful hospitality moved us deeply.

Day 2: Our friend got up early and prepared a hearty breakfast. After eating, we took a bus to tour the city, to understand the local customs of this highland capital, its cityscape, stories past and present, daytime bustle, and evening glittering lights.

Xining is the capital of Qinghai Province, its name meaning ‘peace in the western frontier.’ Located in the northeastern part of Qinghai on the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, it has a plateau continental climate and is one of the world’s high-altitude cities. The total area is 7,660 square kilometers, with a population of nearly 2.5 million. It is the eastern gateway to the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, a must-pass point on the southern route of the ancient ‘Silk Road’ and the ‘Tang-Tibet Road,’ historically a vital transportation hub and military stronghold in northwestern China. It is the political, economic, scientific, educational, cultural, transportation, and communication center of Qinghai Province, as well as an inland open city and the seat of the Central Military Commission’s Xining Joint Logistics Support Center. Xining boasts a long history, unique natural resources, and colorful ethnic customs. It has won many titles such as National Sanitary City, Top 200 Charming Cities with Chinese Characteristics, China Excellent Tourism City, National Advanced City for Landscaping, National Forest City, and National Civilized City.

First, we went to the Memorial Hall of the Chinese Workers’ and Peasants’ Red Army’s Western Route Army in the southwestern suburbs, near the Martyrs Cemetery. The area is filled with green pines and cypresses, shaded by trees, and lush lawns, a tranquil resting place—may the martyrs rest in peace.

The museum tells and displays how the Western Route Army fought bloody battles against the Kuomintang warlords Ma Bufang and Ma Buqing in Gansu and Qinghai, as well as local reactionary militia. With great difficulty in supplies, all soldiers united and fought for nearly five months, engaging in over 80 battles, severely damaging Ma Bufang and Ma Buqing’s forces. However, due to deep isolated advances and being outnumbered, they were defeated in the Qilian Mountains. Captured soldiers of the Western Route Army lived in a bloody reign of terror, enduring all kinds of humiliations and even death. These heroes who fought desperately against the enemy, after capture, faced brutal persecution and persisted in struggle through various means, showing fearless revolutionary heroism and unyielding loyalty. More than 1,600 were killed.

To commemorate the fallen heroes, the CPC Xining Municipal Committee and Municipal Government decided to build the Memorial Hall of the Chinese Workers’ and Peasants’ Red Army’s Western Route Army inside Xining Martyrs Cemetery. Combining painting, sculpture, sound, light, electronics, and digital control technology, it comprehensively reflects the entire history of the Western Route Army. Party and state leaders such as Zhu De, Li Xiannian, and Xu Xiangqian inscribed the museum. It plays an important role in promoting the revolutionary history of the Western Route Army, educating and motivating current cadres and the younger generation. It is a distinctive patriotic education base and a national clean government education base. Since the exhibition hall was under renovation, we only visited the periphery and paid respects to the heroes’ glorious deeds.

Then we took a taxi to the scenic Beishan Meiliyuan (North Mountain Beautiful Park). This 400-hectare permanent green space is beautiful with clear waters and lush flowers, rich aquatic plants, fish, ducks, and geese frolicking happily. Elderly people walked and exercised leisurely, young couples chatted lovingly, children played joyfully... According to our friend, this used to be barren hills and ravines. Through the hard work of Xining people over more than ten years, it has been completely transformed. Walking into Beishan Meiliyuan felt like entering a picturesque Jiangnan water town. We only walked a small part of the 17-kilometer leisure trail in the park before arriving at a temple called Tulou Guan. Tulou Guan is an architectural cultural tourist site about 1 square kilometer, a religious site blending Buddhism, Taoism, and Confucianism with a history of nearly two thousand years. Caves were carved into the cliffs, with statues, niches, and paintings. However, the cliffside buildings were closed for maintenance, so we only visited the main halls.

After leaving the scenic area, we went into the city and tried a bowl of local delicacy ‘Paozhang Noodles’ at a small restaurant. It was delicious—a common home-style dish for locals, similar to Xi’an’s Zhajiang Noodles but with thinner noodles like firecracker fuses.

After lunch, we took a bus to Dongguan Grand Mosque, which has a history of over a thousand years. Covering 11,940 square meters, it is currently the largest Islamic mosque in Qinghai Province and one of the four great mosques in Northwest China, accommodating up to 10,000 worshippers at once. The main prayer hall in the center is the largest building. When we entered, staff were setting up event facilities for Eid al-Fitr and Eid al-Adha. We visited and listened to the staff’s explanations; although not very familiar with Islamic teachings, we could feel the kindness and positive energy.

Then we took a bus home to rest. On the way, we passed the development zone square and pedestrian street, sensing Xining’s rapid development and the people’s happiness. After dinner, our friend took us out for a walk. We took a bus to the city center’s internet-famous spot, Mojia Street’s Mazhong Food Court, and forced some local snacks into already full stomachs, as if we wanted to bring them back to Xi’an.

Day 3: Our friend again prepared a sumptuous breakfast, then we took a bus to the most anticipated attraction of the trip—Tar Temple. The fame and mystery would finally be unveiled. After about an hour, we reached the terminal at Tar Temple, then strolled up the street about 500 meters to the entrance. Ticket: 70 yuan (half price for those 60+). Following the stream of visitors and pilgrims, we approached Tar Temple step by step. White pagodas, red walls, golden tiles, devout believers, spinning prayer wheels, under blue sky and white clouds—a beautiful picture.

This temple with over four hundred years of history is one of the six great monasteries of the Gelug school (Yellow Sect) of Tibetan Buddhism, the birthplace of Tsongkhapa, the sect’s founder, and the Buddhist activity center in Northwest China. Towering on a hillside, it is a vast complex of Tibetan-Han combined architecture, covering 450,000 square meters, majestic and awe-inspiring yet artistic. It is the foremost historical site in Qinghai Province and a national key cultural relics protection unit.

Tar Temple gets its name from the great silver pagoda inside the Great Golden Tile Temple, built to commemorate Tsongkhapa. In Tibetan, it is called ‘Gongben Xianba Lin,’ meaning ‘Maitreya Monastery of a Hundred Thousand Roaring Lion Buddhas.’ It is a national 5A scenic spot and renowned throughout China and Southeast Asia. Emperors throughout history bestowed plaques and titles. Many generations of Dalai Lamas and Panchen Lamas have conducted religious activities here. The butter sculptures are lifelike, the murals do not fade, and the appliqué embroidery is vividly brilliant, known as the ‘Three Unique Arts of Tar Temple.’

Huangzhong appliqué embroidery’s history can be traced back to the time when Princess Wencheng entered Tibet. She brought Central Plains silk and embroidery to Tubo, and various textile skills spread across the Qinghai-Tibet region. Huangzhong appliqué embroidery developed from this background. The butter sculptures as precious Buddhist offerings also date back to Princess Wencheng’s entry into Tibet: she brought a life-sized statue of Sakyamuni to Lhasa and enshrined it in Jokhang Temple. The Tubo people used butter to make flower offerings before the Buddha to show reverence. Later, Tibetan Buddhist monasteries adopted this, regarding butter sculptures as essential offerings. Offering butter flowers gradually became an important item and viewing activity in the Great Prayer Festival of the first month. Princess Wencheng serves as a link and witness to Tang-Tibet friendship, and promoted prosperity in politics, religion, culture, animal husbandry, agriculture, and other aspects in Tibet. The brilliant history of Tibet over 1,380 years following her arrival, and the relics and murals preserved in the Potala Palace, all attest to her immense contributions to national peace, harmony among people, and enhanced cultural and economic exchanges, greatly boosting Tubo’s development. Though highly revered and honored by Tibetans as ‘Green Tara,’ Princess Wencheng made great sacrifices: entering Tibet at 17 and dying at 48 without children. After her husband Songtsen Gampo died, she lived another 30 years in Tibet for the nation’s tranquility. Tar Temple also houses many Buddhist scriptures and academic works. Incense burns prosperously, and the annual ‘Four Great Dharma Assemblies’ are especially lively.

We slowly climbed and visited almost all halls and sites. After two hours, we strolled down, had local food in the small town, then returned to the bus station and headed back to the city home, resting immediately—truly tired from walking.

In the evening, we enjoyed Xining’s barbecue skewers and beer on the street near home, feeling bold and hearty.

Day 4: Our friend once again prepared a rich breakfast, and then we took a bus to the Provincial Museum in the western suburbs. This is the province’s first large museum with modern functions, covering over 20,000 square meters, a magnificent Tang-style building. The museum houses a rich collection spanning long ages and covering many fields: religion, folk customs, politics, economy, military, production and daily life, with New Era colored pottery and ethnic religious artifacts as the most distinctive. It undertakes exhibitions, cultural relic protection, scientific research, talent training, social services, external education and communication, etc. Open to the public for free, it is a National First-Class Museum.

We walked through two floors and multiple exhibition halls, browsing much unfamiliar knowledge, feeling quite refreshed.

After about two hours, we came to the square outside the museum. To the left were the Cultural Center, Art Museum, and Library. Due to light rain and time constraints, we didn’t go inside. Since we are from Shaanxi and originally from Xi’an, our friend took us directly to the Shan-Shaan Guild Hall by bus. The Shan-Shaan Guild Hall is a place for merchants from Shanxi and Shaanxi to gather, pray, and relax. The hall covers over 10 mu, with exquisite layout, fine carvings, and halls full of symbolism, showcasing the solemnity and beauty of traditional Chinese palace architecture and the economic power of Shanxi and Shaanxi merchants. After 135 years, it still functions, providing cultural exchange and leisure for Xining residents and tourists.

After visiting for about an hour, we took a bus back to our lodging and had lunch with our friend as a token of thanks.

Day 5: Our friend again prepared a hearty breakfast, then we reluctantly said goodbye, promising to meet again in Xi’an. The friend insisted on taking us to the train station by taxi. After waiting, security check, we took a 5-hour high-speed train back to Xi’an North Station, transferred to subway and then taxi to return home.

This trip was rewarding and full of emotions. We experienced the great beauty of Qinghai, the sincerity of friends, the greatness of our motherland, and the unity of all ethnic groups. Like pomegranate seeds tightly embracing, we repel all invaders and enjoy harmonious, happy lives forever!