Gazing at the Imperial Gate, Westward to Chang'an
Family trip: total spent 17,000 RMB.
Camera gear for this trip: Sony a7c with a Sigma 28-70mm F2.8 DG DN lens.
Travel tips: Free-entry attractions require advance real-name reservation on official websites; bring a power bank.
Must-have apps: Amap (Gaode Maps), and food delivery apps (the ones most people already have on their phones).
Souvenir picks: Zhaoji Suzhai mung bean cakes, Shaanxi Thirteen (Beiyuanmen flagship store), Demaogong (Beiguan branch).
DAY 1 (July 1, 2023):
Midday: Departed Shanghai Pudong International Airport (T1) at 11:45 on China Eastern MU9803, arriving at Xi'an Xianyang International Airport (T3) at 14:30 (actual arrival 14:05). (Round-trip fare: 2,989 RMB/adult, 2,500 RMB/child).
Afternoon: At 14:39 took a Ctrip-private hired car, arriving at 15:26 at JI Hotel (No. 28 North Street, Lianhu District, Xi'an, right by Zhonglou Metro Station Exit B West) (family room: 809 RMB/night). After checking in and a short rest, at 16:30 we headed to Chang'an Dapaidang (right next to the hotel). After a few tiring hours of travel, having authentic Shaanxi cuisine just steps away was a real treat. Their Chang'an Gourd Chicken, Concubine's Smile shrimp balls, Xifu Yikouxiang noodles, and Golden Soup Chrysanthemum Hot Pot were absolutely outstanding.
Evening: At 18:00 we walked to Yongning Gate (South Gate) (No. 2 South Street, Beilin District, Xi'an). Summer heat peaked; 17:00–18:00 is the ideal time to climb the city wall. Don't worry about the fading light—this is when the sunset glow graces the ancient bricks. Cycling around Xi'an lets you feel its deep, storied past. At Yongning Gate, the climbing crowd was surprisingly thin. Gently touching the weathered grey bricks on the wall, you can't help but sigh at the weight of history. We rented a bike (there was a queue; after 20:00 you can't return bikes at the East, West, or North gates. Single bike: 45 RMB/180 min, tandem: 90 RMB/180 min), riding atop the uneven ramparts and gazing out over all of Xi'an. It brought to mind Tang poet Du Mu's verses:
"Looking back at Chang'an, brocade piles high,
On the mountain top, a thousand gates open in turn.
A rider's dust raises the concubine's smile,
No one knows it's the lychees coming.
Green trees in Xinfeng stir up yellow dust,
Several riders return from Yuyang as scouts.
The Rainbow Skirt song atop a thousand peaks,
Dancing broke the central plain before coming down.
Nations' music intoxicated in peace,
Towering palaces under bright moonlight.
Amid clouds, dancers clap wildly to An Lushan's flailing,
Wind over the ridges carries down their laughter."
During Emperor Xuanzong's reign, the glorious Kaiyuan era made the Tang Empire unprecedentedly prosperous, but the An Lushan Rebellion brought a swift and devastating decline—truly sobering. With that, the splendor of Chang'an faded into history.
19:55: Descended the wall at the North Gate, strolled along North Street, and grabbed a cup of Chahuamong milk tea. Honestly, the tea was just right—not greasy, not too sweet. By 20:30 we were back at the hotel resting.
DAY 2 (July 2, 2023):
Morning: At 8:00 we went to Zhonglou Community (No. 49 Zhubashi Street, Beilin District, Xi'an). Not as crowded as Xiaonanmen morning market but still bursting with local life. Zhaoji Suzhai already had a long queue. Inside the complex, Laoba Rice Noodle Breakfast Shop is the only breakfast spot. We sampled Henan-style hulatang (spicy soup), a bowl of mildly spicy tofu pudding, and a couple of xiaolongbao—a perfect start.
At 9:00 from Zhonglou Metro Station Exit B West, took Line 2 (toward Changning Palace) for 2 stops to Nanshaomen, transferred to Line 5 (toward Xi'an East Station) for 4 stops to Yanxianglu Beikou Exit B (fare: 2 RMB/person). Walked to Qinglong Temple (No. 1, Tielumiao Village North, Xiyin Road, Yanta District, Xi'an) (free entry). Also known as Shifo Temple, it is the foundational monastery of Tang Dynasty Esoteric Buddhism and the birthplace of Japanese Shingon Buddhism. During cherry blossom season, visitors flock here and tickets are almost impossible to get. This is also where actors Ren Jialun and Bailu's characters first met in the drama "Forever and Ever". We'd reserved real-name tickets in advance on the official website; entering at 8:30 from the north gate meant minimal crowds. Though no cherry blossoms, the temple's deep shade and serene paths were refreshing. It brought to mind Song poet Zhang Li's "Record of a Journey South of the City": "South of Leyou, north of Qujiang, in Xinchang Ward stands Qinglong Temple. Its back rests on the highlands, its front faces the Southern Mountains—a supreme spot for climbing and gazing afar, as Jia Dao said, 'Walking or sitting, I see the Southern Mountains.'" After touring the halls, we picked up an Eighteen Seeds bracelet, symbolizing good fortune, wish fulfillment, and the accumulation of wisdom. At 11:05 from Qinglong Temple Metro Station, took Line 3 (toward Yuhuazhai) 2 stops to Dayanta Metro Station Exit B Southwest (fare: 2 RMB/person), arriving at the north square of Dayanta and Cien Town.
Midday: At 11:25 we headed to The Number One Noodle House (No. 8 Xiaozhai East Road, Yanta District, Xi'an). Their biangbiang noodles came in an enormous bowl—just one strand was filling enough. Truly the capital of carbs.
Afternoon: The weather turned against us, and heavy rain suddenly poured down. At 12:00 we ducked into Qujiang Joy City (No. 67 Cien West Road, Yanta District, Xi'an) to take shelter… Strangely, Xi'an's rain is fierce but stops just as abruptly. I had a Moutai yogurt ice cream, then we went to the No. 3 gate of Joy City, in front of Heytea, for that classic Instagram shot with the pagoda and red walls. We went to the fourth-floor terrace and the second-floor terrace at Mann Coffee to admire the Dayan Pagoda, then over to Great Tang All Day Mall (No. 46 Cien Road, Yanta District, Xi'an) where we saw the sea of people, Tang Sanzang, and Sun Wukong—but I forgot to look for Zhu Bajie, and Sha Wujing was missing too. A little regret to spice the trip.
Evening: At 17:20 we walked to Erhuixiang Hot Pot Restaurant (1st Floor, Yuanyue Commercial Building, No. 1 Yannan 1st Road, Qujiang New District, Yanta District, Xi'an). Their spicy broth was superb, and the braised chicken feet were incredibly flavorful—but really, really spicy. At 19:40 from Datang Furongyuan Metro Station Exit D Northeast, took Line 4 (toward Xi'an Beizhan) 1 stop to Dayanta, transferred to Line 3 (toward Yuhuazhai) 1 stop to Xiaozhai, transferred to Line 2 (toward Caotan) 4 stops to Zhonglou Exit B West (fare: 3 RMB/person), back to the hotel.
DAY 3 (July 3, 2023):
Morning: The third day in Xi'an brought pouring rain, ruling out any outdoor plans.
Midday: When the rain eased around 12:10, from Zhonglou Metro Station Exit B West, we took Line 2 (toward Changning Palace) 1 stop to Yongningmen Exit C Southeast (fare: 2 RMB/person) and walked to Chang'an Zao · Shaanxi Heritage Restaurant (2nd Floor, Yongningli, inside the South Gate, Beilin District, Xi'an). Their signature Yinghu big fish head with giant fried dough sticks, air-dried tripe, sand onions with fresh bean curd sheets, fire crystal persimmon rice balls, old Shaanxi super cold noodles, and osmanthus thick rice wine were all delicate and refined.
Afternoon: At 13:30, a light drizzle added a special charm to strolling through Shuyuanmen and Xiangzimiao Street. When we got tired, we found a cozy spot, GCWZ (No. 6 Xiangzimiao Street, Beilin District, Xi'an), for a rich cup of coffee—really enjoyable.
At 17:00 we hopped on City Sightseeing Bus Route 1, which passed Daming Palace National Heritage Park. A few words about Daming Palace: it was the imperial palace complex of the Tang Dynasty, where 17 emperors from Gaozong onward handled state affairs. The most magnificent and the largest palace complex in the world at its time. Poet Wang Wei wrote in his "Responding to Secretary Jia's 'Morning Audience at Daming Palace'":
"The red-capped watchman reports the morning watch,
The wardrobe attendant brings the kingfisher-feather robe.
Heaven's gates open the palace halls,
Envoys from all nations bow to the imperial crown.
Sunshine touches the immortal palm statues,
Incense smoke drifts around the dragon robe.
After the audience, the five-colored edict is drafted,
With jade pendants clinking, he returns to the Phoenix Pool."
So how did Daming Palace vanish into history? First, the An Lushan Rebellion left it heavily damaged, desolate, with Chang'an in ruins. Poet Du Fu, looking at the bleak streets, wrote the famous "Spring View":
"The nation shattered, yet mountains and rivers remain;
Spring in the city, grasses and trees thicken.
Grieving over the times, flowers bring tears;
Resenting separation, birds startle the heart.
Beacon fires burn through three months,
A family letter worth ten thousand gold pieces.
My white hair grows ever thinner,
Soon I'll no longer keep even a hairpin."
Second, although the Huang Chao Rebellion also dealt a heavy blow, the fatal destruction that reduced Daming Palace to rubble came from Zhu Wen, founding emperor of Later Liang. Born a farmer, he first followed Huang Chao, served as defense commissioner of Tongzhou, then betrayed Huang Chao's Qi regime and surrendered to Tang. He then vied with Li Keyong and Li Maozhen for control over Emperor Zhaozong. In 904 AD, the first year of Tianyou, Zhu Wen ordered his adopted son Zhu Youliang to forge an edict, executing Chancellor Cui Yin, the mayor of the capital, and others, then insistently petitioned Emperor Zhaozong to move the capital to Luoyang. The emperor had no choice but to comply. Zhu Wen ordered the population of Chang'an to relocate, dismantled the palaces and houses, and floated the timber down the Wei River to build new palaces in Luoyang. In August the same year, he killed Emperor Zhaozong and installed 13-year-old Li Zhu as puppet, known as Emperor Ai of Tang. Thus, Daming Palace was utterly erased, and no subsequent dynasty ever made Chang'an its capital again.
Evening: At 18:30 we went to Yuwei Restaurant · Shaanxi Heritage (1st Floor, Block A, Hongfu Mansion, 118 North Street). Their creative dishes like Dancing Eggplant, Xiao Wei Steamed Sea Bass, Flaming Clams, and Gluttonous Jianghu Bullfrog were fresh and appealing, suited for younger diners. Pity there was no live singer that night. At 21:30 we headed to Muslim Street (No. 1-51 Beiyuanmen, Lianhu District, Xi'an). The street bustled with visitors and brimmed with local flavors. A post-dinner stroll, then back to the hotel.
DAY 4 (July 4, 2023):
Morning: At 7:20 we took a chartered online car (round trip in a 7-seater Buick MPV: 620 RMB) to Emperor Qinshihuang's Mausoleum Site Museum (Terracotta Warriors) (intersection of Qinling North Road and Qinyongguan Road, Lintong District, Xi'an), about a one-hour drive. By metro, from Zhonglou Exit B West take Line 2 (toward Xi'an Beizhan) 1 stop to Beidajie, transfer to Line 1 (toward Fangzhicheng) 9 stops to Fangzhicheng, transfer to Line 9 (toward Qinling West) 11 stops to Huaqingchi Exit C, then take Lintong Bus 602 (toward Bingmayong No.2 Depot) 13 stops—but you'd have to queue for that bus. On arriving, remember: for the museum, seeing is only 30%; hearing the stories is 70%. Hire an official guide (90 RMB for up to 5 people, earphones 8 RMB each) or you'll just be looking at clay figures. The site was packed all day, long queues everywhere. We got into Pit 1 at 9:30. Best order: Pit 1 → Pit 3 → Pit 2. Pit 1 is the largest, mainly infantry standing about 180cm tall. At the very front are the suiciders without armor, followed by the main armored corps and warhorses. Pit 3 is the smallest, the army's command center. The horses here have longer tails than ordinary warhorses, and most generals are headless—legend says Xiang Yu, the Conqueror, found this pit, burned the soldiers, and decapitated all the generals, even taking their weapons. Pit 2's Qin bricks are said to be priced up to 400,000 RMB each. Because preserving painted warriors unearthed after millennia is extremely difficult, you could skip the crowds and skip viewing them. The Terracotta Warriors VR theatre gives kids an immersive taste of Qin glory, but adults seeking high image quality might want to pass.
Midday: At 13:00 we grabbed fast food at the museum's McDonald's.
Afternoon: At 13:30 our driver took us to Huaqing Palace (No. 38 Huaqing Road, Lintong District, Xi'an). At Huaqing Palace, the timeless line "In heaven we wish to be lovebirds, on earth to be intertwined branches" and the love story of Emperor Xuanzong and Yang Guifei are known to all. Originally called Tangquan Palace and later Wenquan Palace, it was the Tang emperors' resort. Under Xuanzong, it was massively expanded, with hot spring pools and palaces on the hillside, where he lived for long periods with consort Yang Yuhuan. Yang wanted a theme song for her entrances, so he personally composed the "Rainbow Skirt and Feathered Coat" melody; she loved lychees, so he had them rushed from the south at great cost. Their romance was legendary—he started with the glorious Kaiyuan era through diligence and ended with the An Lushan Rebellion through indulgence, planting the seeds of Tang's fall. About the site: it's mainly five pools—Star Pool (Emperor Taizong's private pool), Lotus Pool (Emperor Xuanzong's private pool), Imperial Consort Pool (Yang Guifei's bath), Shangshi Pool (for officials and imperial chefs), and Crown Prince's Pool (an open-air bathing area for princes). Basically, four pools dug into the ground, enclosed by brick and wood with roofs, where Tang royalty and ministers came for hot-spring team-building. If you enjoy red tourism, Huaqing Pool also has the Five-Room Hall and the Coup Pavilion from the Xi'an Incident. To take the cable car up Lishan, you can exit from the West Gate, but the mountain only offers sweeping views of the land below. At 16:30 we drove back to the Bell Tower area.
Evening: At 18:00 we went to Jiangcheng Xiaoguan Shannan Mama's Cooking · Millennium Shaanxi Cuisine (No. 15A Fennan South Yuan Gate, Plaza No. 9-11, Food Fashion Complex, Beilin District, Xi'an). Their Ziyang Steamed Pot, Sizzling Organic Yellow Catfish, and Qin-style Hand-grabbed Lamb Ribs were all excellent. My beer even had a lingering Longjing tea aftertaste. The nearly 1.5-hour queue for a big table testified to its popularity. By 21:00, well-fed and happy, we strolled back to the hotel.
DAY 5 (July 5, 2023):
Morning: At 8:15 from Zhonglou Metro Station Exit B West, took Line 2 (toward Caotan) 1 stop to Beidajie, transferred to Line 1 (toward Fenghe Forest Park) 1 stop to Sajinqiao Exit B Southwest (fare: 2 RMB/person), walked to Guangren Temple (No. 152 Northwest 1st Road, northwest corner of the city wall, Lianhu District, Xi'an) (free entry). Guangren Temple is China's only Green Tara sanctuary and Shaanxi's sole Tibetan Gelug Buddhist monastery. In 1705, the 44th year of Kangxi's reign, the emperor funded its construction during an inspection tour. Its red walls are now an internet-famous photo spot, drawing visitors nationwide to snap pictures. No online reservation needed; entering at 8:30 means smallest crowds. After the visit, we got an Eighteen Seeds bracelet—choices with inscribed characters or lucky pouch versions. For incense prayers: matchmaking at Guanyin Hall, health at Longevity Hall, career at Green Tara Hall, and academics at Thousand Buddha Hall.
At 9:30 we walked to Sajinqiao Food Street (60m north of the intersection of Sajinqiao and Xiangmiyuan, Lianhu District, Xi'an). As lively as Muslim Street, it's perfect for grabbing zenggao (steamed glutinous rice cake), court-style crispy beef pancakes, cured beef sandwiches, or sour soup dumplings—especially the humble-looking but incredibly tasty dumplings. At 10:40 from Sajinqiao Metro Station Exit B Southwest, took Line 1 (toward Fangzhicheng) 1 stop to Beidajie, transferred to Line 2 (toward Changning Palace) 1 stop to Zhonglou Exit 6 (fare: 2 RMB/person), walked to Xi'an Xinhua Bookstore Bell Tower Branch (No. 377 East Street, Xincheng District, Xi'an). A new travel experience: buy a 20 RMB task item and get 102 stamps for free.
Midday: At 12:30 we booked a 7-seater Buick MPV (online booking: 200 RMB) to Xi'an Xianyang International Airport, about 40 minutes.
Afternoon: Departed Xi'an Xianyang International Airport (T3) at 16:00 on China Eastern MU2161, landing at Shanghai Hongqiao International Airport (T2) at 18:15 (round-trip fare: 2,989 RMB/adult, 2,500 RMB/child). This Xi'an trip was deep and rewarding overall, yet left a few regrets: the rain made us miss all the Great Tang All Day Mall performances, we didn't go inside Daming Palace's indoor exhibition halls to see the three models and two films, and we failed to reserve tickets for the Shaanxi History Museum…
