A Day Trip from Xi'an to Pucheng: Visiting Friends and Sightseeing by Car
Several old friends who hadn't seen each other for years decided to set off from Xi'an to Pucheng for a reunion, at the sincere invitation of their old friend in Pucheng. At 5 a.m., our driver, an older brother and a retired veteran with good timekeeping and discipline, got up and woke everyone else. From picking up the first person to leaving the city took about over an hour. Then we hit the highway and sped along for another hour, with laughter and cheerful chatter. Due to a navigation glitch, we got off the highway early and ended up on a country road leading to Pucheng, which let us enjoy the long-missed pastoral scenery. The cornfields on both sides were like green curtains, instantly evoking scenes from a novel—just breathtaking. After another hour's drive, we arrived in the beautiful town of Pucheng, where a lady friend guided us to her home. Fruit snacks and freshly cut watermelon were already prepared, and with the cool air conditioning, the summer heat vanished. We basked in the warmth of friendship and family, talking about everything under the sun, reminiscing about our time apart—it was lively and heartwarming.
Breakfast had been booked by our thoughtful lady friend at a hotel not far from her home. We took a few minutes' walk to a private room and sat down. Soon, the local specialty arrived—Pucheng’s donkey meat soup with bread (lüròu shuǐpén pàomó). It reminded us of the lyrics from the song 'Song of Xi'an People': 'Wherever Xi'aners go, they can't miss eating pàomó.' But this version of pàomó was one I'd never seen in Xi'an: rich broth, big chunks of lean meat to devour, and crescent-shaped sesame cakes with red chili oil on a thick wooden board. The color, aroma, and taste were superb, leaving a lingering fragrance in the mouth. Even after a huge bowl of donkey meat soup with bread, we polished it off—so satisfying, as if tasting the joy of life itself.
Driving over two hours from Xi'an just to have breakfast in Pucheng—that was a first in my life. After breakfast, we strolled into the streets of Pucheng. A bright red ceremonial cannon car fired dozens of salutes, celebrating a lottery win and also seemed to welcome us travelers from afar—merry and cheerful. The simple and warm hospitality of Pucheng people was already palpable when we entered the residential compound of our friend's home. To receive us guests, the compound had been cleaned early, and even strangers at the gate smiled at us—truly touching! Our lady friend was so considerate that she had prepared small fans and towels for each of us, handy for sightseeing.
Pucheng County is located in the northeastern part of the Guanzhong Plain in Shaanxi. It covers an area of nearly 1,600 square kilometers and has a population of almost 800,000. As a part of Weinan City, it is Shaanxi’s number one grain-producing county and a provincial-level historical and cultural city. With our lady friend as our guide, we strolled around this county town honored as 'a blessed land of dragon veins and hometown of generals and ministers.'
First, we visited the old residence of Wang Zhendong, a patriotic Shaanxi general from the Republican era. The complex faces south, with three courtyards covering nearly 800 square meters, first built in the 10th year of the Daoguang reign of the Qing Dynasty. The brick carvings, wood carvings, and stone carvings are exquisitely crafted, with high-quality reliefs and antique-looking paint. It remains largely intact and holds immense historical, scientific, and artistic value. Located diagonally opposite the Pucheng Ancient Examination Hall, the 24 rooms in the courtyard are arranged and furnished with sculptures to replicate the ancient exam setting, giving a true glimpse into the lives of old-time examination candidates. Our lady friend had arranged a professional guide in advance, who vividly explained stories and details, making the visit highly engaging and enlightening.
Right across the street is the Ancient Examination Hall, stepping in felt like returning to an exam venue. Our lady friend kindly bought entrance tickets for us, also as keepsakes. The Pucheng Examination Hall was first built during the Ming Dynasty, covering 6,200 square meters. It is one of the best-preserved Qing Dynasty examination hall complexes in China. It once housed the 'Donghuaiyuan Primary School of Pucheng County,' which was our lady friend’s alma mater. So her guided tour was even more detailed and authentic, showcasing the past and present of the hall.
Next, we walked to the most renowned site: the Yang Hucheng Memorial Museum. Born into a poor farming family, Yang Hucheng once worked as a blade-wielding escort and later joined the military. A gutsy nationalistic Kuomintang general, he was known as the 'King of Shaanxi.' When foreign enemies invaded, he and General Zhang Xueliang launched the Xi'an Incident. They staged a military remonstration to force Chiang Kai-shek to accept the call to stop the civil war and unite against the external aggressor. This spurred the nationwide outbreak of the War of Resistance, making a monumental contribution to the Chinese nation’s fight against foreign enemies. However, he was detained by the Nationalist government and later assassinated by its secret agents. With his life and blood, the general wrote a testament of loyalty to his country and nation. He is the pride of Shaanxi, truly living up to the praise: 'Isn’t it great to die for one’s convictions?' and 'A national hero, a meritorious figure through the ages.' This was once Yang Hucheng’s old residence in his hometown of Pucheng. Now it is a memorial hall that uses artifacts, images, and texts to promote his heroic deeds, deeply embedding the great national spirit and ensuring that future generations remember and pass on his story.
Afterward, filled with admiration and regret, we sighed and discussed what we had seen, then walked another ten minutes to the Pucheng Museum. Next to it is a large civic square. At the gate stands the 'Six-Dragon Wall' built with glazed bricks from the former Confucian Temple—a screen wall over four hundred years old, with immense artistic value and stunning beauty. Entering, we found shady trees, clustered galleries, tall ancient halls with carved beams and painted rafters, and exhibitions neatly arranged, recounting Pucheng’s long history. The North Pagoda and South Pagoda here were built 25 years earlier than Xi'an’s Big Wild Goose Pagoda and are now located within Pucheng Middle School. Listed among the 'Eight Scenic Spots of Pucheng' as 'Twin Pagodas in Night Shadow,' they represent the pinnacle of ancient Chinese architectural art and are iconic landmarks of the county town.
After the museum, a ten-minute walk brought us to the Memorial Hall of Wang Ding, a renowned upright prime minister through the ages, and the Former Residence of Lin Zexu. The Wang Ding Memorial Hall was converted from his former residence, while Lin Zexu’s Former Residence is where he lived for several months while mourning his teacher. The exhibitions display their lives and deeds, for visitors to admire and remember.
By the time we finished these sights, it was afternoon. We drove to an agritainment farm called 'You Yi Zhuang' (Another Villa) on the western outskirts, which our lady friend had booked in advance. There we savored authentic Pucheng cuisine: among hundreds of dishes, the truly local ones outshone all others in flavor. We enjoyed a variety of local delicacies, sat back, and slowly recalled funny stories of how we met and became friends. Even as the afternoon wore on, we were reluctant to leave, and we agreed to meet again soon in Xi'an.
After the feast and happy chat, we drove two hours back to Xi'an. On the way, we all dozed off—only our driver brother kept his eyes wide open and ears pricked, staying alert and safely delivering each of us home. Hats off to that tough, cheerful, and patient veteran! This trip was full of feelings, learning, enjoyment, and joy. It was time well spent, and we look forward to the next time...
The Shaanxi Provincial People's Hospital, advocated and urged to be established by General Yang Hucheng, has now developed into one of the best medical institutions not only in Shaanxi but in the five northwestern provinces. It has become a large comprehensive teaching hospital. Just returning from General Yang’s hometown of Pucheng, I inadvertently retraced his footsteps once again. I am grateful to the general. A hero with national principles, guts, and great love, Yang Hucheng is the pride of Shaanxi and deserves to be forever remembered and extolled by future generations!
This trip to Pucheng, a place of outstanding people and natural beauty, was truly rewarding! Not only did I learn that the Shaanxi Provincial People's Hospital was advocated by Pucheng native General Yang Hucheng, but I also discovered that his senior and superior, Jing Yuexiu (known as the Yulin King), and Jing Wumu, the Shaanxi trailblazer of the 1911 Revolution (Jing Yuexiu’s younger brother), both hailed from Pucheng. The Xiaonanmen gate is also called Wumu Gate, and Sifu Street, where Sun Yat-sen’s comrade Jing Wumu once lived in Xi'an, was once named 'Wumu Street.' I remember my grandfather mentioning the name Jing Yuexiu when I was a child.
