A Relaxing Visit to Nanwutai on Zhongnanshan

Nanwutai is located about 30 km south of Xi'an in Chang'an District, at an altitude of 1,688 meters. It is a spur of the middle section of the Zhongnanshan (part of the Qinling Mountains). Because there are five small peaks on the mountain, each with a small flat terrace on top, it was named Wutaishan (Five-Terrace Mountain). The five terraces are Sheshentai (Self-Sacrifice Terrace), Lingyingtai (Miraculous Response Terrace), Qingliangtai (Cool Terrace), Wenshutai (Manjusri Terrace), and Guanyintai (Avalokitesvara Terrace). Since it faces Wutaishan (Yaowangshan) in Yaoxian County on the Guanzhong Basin from afar, it is also called Nanwutai (Southern Wutai).

Nanwutai is accessible by public bus. From Xi'an city, take Metro Line 2 to Weiqu South Station, then transfer to Bus 730, which goes directly to the scenic area entrance.

Scenic area map. Admission is 45 yuan. Free for seniors over 65. Parking fee is 10 yuan.

From the entrance, you can take a shuttle bus to Huolongdong (Fire Dragon Cave). The distance from the entrance to Huolongdong is about 11 km. After getting off at Huolongdong, the rest of the route is hiking, totaling about 3.5 km.

The recommended sightseeing route is: take the shuttle bus from the entrance to Huolongdong, then hike: Huolongdong → Heihudian (Black Tiger Hall) → Zizhulin (Purple Bamboo Grove) → Lamashi (Lama Stone) → Lingyingtai → Nanshanbulaosong (Old Pine of the Southern Mountain) → Qingliangtai → Wenshutai → Guanyintai → Sitiantiamen (Four Heavenly Gates) → Huolongdong, then return by shuttle bus to the entrance.

Shuttle bus one-way fare is 20 yuan, round-trip 40 yuan. You can get off midway to visit attractions like Shengshousi (Temple of Sacred Longevity), Wumashi (Five-Horse Stone), and the thousand-year Tang locust trees, but if you want to board again, you need to buy a new 20-yuan ticket. According to staff, it's about 7 km from the entrance to Shengshousi, taking about three hours on foot, so for visitors who take the bus up, it's hard to visit Shengshousi and other spots. Along the shuttle route are sights such as Shougui Chaosheng (Longevity Turtle Paying Homage), Wanshousong (Longevity Pine), and Lianlizhi (Intertwined Branches). Next time, you might consider getting off at Shengshousi and walking to Huolongdong, visiting these sites along the way, though there's about 4 km uphill, a bit strenuous, maybe 2 hours walking. Or walk down from Huolongdong, which is easier.

Nanwutai is a spur of the middle section of the Zhongnanshan. The Zhongnanshan is part of the Qinling range, which stretches east-west through central China, forming a natural boundary between north and south in geology, geography, ecology, climate, and even culture—the watershed of China. The section from Yangjiabao at the easternmost tip of Lantian County, Xi'an, to the southern ridge of Taibai Mountain, the main peak of the Qinling at the westernmost boundary of Zhouzhi County, is called the Zhongnanshan. It is also known as Taiyishan, Difeishan, Zhongnanshan, Zhounanshan; because it lies south of ancient Chang'an (Xi'an), it's short-named Nanshan (Southern Mountain). The main peak of the Zhongnanshan is in Chang'an District, with an elevation of 2,604 meters. The Zhongnanshan spans Lantian County, Chang'an District, Huyi District, Zhouzhi County, stretching over 200 kilometers. It is an important geographical landmark of China, birth place of allusions like "Shoubi Nanshan" (Longevity Like the Southern Mountains) and "Zhongnan Jiejing" (Zhongnan Shortcut), famed as "Immortal Capital," "Crown of Grotto Heavens," and "First Blessed Land under Heaven."

Nanwutai was anciently called Taiyishan, known as the "divine and beautiful area of the Zhongnan." Its steep, elegant peaks and stunning scenery. The name "Taiyi" suggests it was originally a famous Daoist mountain. "Taiyi" is a pre-Qin Daoist philosophical concept, the Dao itself, referring to the origin and essence of all things. Later it became a star name—the imperial star, also called the North Star. In Daoism, Taiyi is a deity—Taiyi Zhenren. Not far east of Nanwutai lies Taiyi Palace, an elegant retreat for nobles in the Han and Tang dynasties. Wang Wei wrote: "Taiyi near the celestial capital, linked peaks stretch to the sea. White clouds close when I look back, blue mist vanishes as I enter. The peaks divide the sky, valleys change with light and shade. Seeking a place to stay, I ask a woodcutter across the stream."

Today Nanwutai is a renowned Buddhist sanctuary. The five terraces—Sheshen, Lingying, Qingliang, Wenshu, Guanyin—clearly show it is a Buddhist mountain.

The image below is a photo of Shengshousi downloaded from the internet.

Shengshousi was built during the Renshou era of the Sui Dynasty (601-604). Legend says the mother of Emperor Yang of Sui practiced Buddhism here. In the sixth year of the Dali reign of the Tang Dynasty (771), it was called Nanwutai Shengshousi, and the Guanyinsi on the peak became the Upper Monastery of Shengshousi. During the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms period, it was destroyed in warfare. In the third year of the Taiping Xingguo era of the Northern Song (978), auspicious lights appeared six times on the peak, and the emperor bestowed the name "Wutai Mountain Yuanguang Monastery," with Shengshousi renamed as the Lower Monastery of Guanyintai Yuanguangsi. In the monastery, north of the Mahavira Hall stands the Sui-era Shengshousi Pagoda, also called the Yingshen Dashi Relic Pagoda, one of China's oldest pagodas. It is the oldest surviving pagoda in Xi'an. It is said that the Giant Wild Goose Pagoda was modeled after it. In front of the monastery gate are two ancient Tang-dynasty locust trees, rare nationwide, towering and sturdy, together called "Sui Pagoda, Tang Locusts."

Another story says Emperor Wen of Sui, Yang Jian, and his mother traveled to India and brought back a tooth relic of the Buddha. Arriving at Nanwutai, they found the landscape beautiful, conducive to meditation, so they built the pagoda. The site thrived with pilgrims; Emperor Wen often came to escape the summer heat and worship. In the early Tang, Emperor Taizong Li Shimin's mother came several times a year. Thus Nanwutai became renowned as a Buddhist holy place, perhaps marking its shift from Daoist mountain to Buddhist mountain. One can imagine the grand scale of Shengshousi back then; today few structures remain, just one main hall. Because I took the shuttle, I didn't visit Shengshousi—maybe next time I'll walk.

After arriving at Huolongdong parking lot, the hiking begins. The path is mostly stone steps and wooden boardwalks, said to have 1,888 steps, some sections quite steep.

Huolongdong (Fire Dragon Cave). A huge rock is carved with "Shenxiu Zhongnan" (Divine Beauty of the Zhongnan). Folk legend says this was a dragon's lair. During the Sui Renshou era, a fire dragon lived in a cave here. It could change forms, appearing as a Daoist priest selling medicine in Chang'an, claiming it could lead to immortality, but actually tricking people into the cave to eat them. Avalokitesvara (Guanyin) manifested as a monk, built a thatched hut on the peak, and subdued the dragon with Buddhist Dharma, saving the people. In gratitude, believers built Guanyinsi on the peak to worship Guanyin. Later, after an auspicious sign, the emperor bestowed the name "Yuanguangsi" (Monastery of Perfect Light).

Heihudian (Black Tiger Hall) is said to have been founded in the Sui or Tang dynasty. It enshrines Guanyin, with a black tiger as guardian, hence the name. Inside is a Chinese arborvitae said to have been planted by Emperor Taizong Li Shimin, over a thousand years old.

Zizhulin (Purple Bamboo Grove) is one of the earliest imperial temples on Nanwutai and one of the oldest on Zhongnanshan. It houses statues of Guanyin, Manjusri (Wenshu), and Samantabhadra (Puxian). It was originally called Dashi Tou (Big Stone) because there is a huge rock by the gate resembling a rhinoceros; "Rhinoceros Gazing at the Moon" is a famous scenic spot. According to a stele in the temple, Nanwutai became a Guanyin bodhimanda after her subduing the fire dragon. Since the Ming dynasty, it was called Guanyin Dasi (Great Guanyin Monastery). In the 23rd year of the Guangxu reign (1897), it was renovated and renamed Zizhulin.

The photo below shows the "Rhinoceros Gazing at the Moon."

The name "Purple Bamboo Grove" has an interesting origin. The famous Japanese Rinzai monk Hui'e visited Tang China multiple times. He requested a Guanyin statue from Nanwutai to take to Japan but was blocked by a great storm near Putuo Mountain. After praying to Guanyin, he received an omen that the statue did not wish to leave China, so he built the "Bukenqu Guanyin Temple" (Temple of Guanyin Who Refuses to Leave) in a purple bamboo grove. Since then, many Buddhist monasteries have been named Zizhulin, and Nanwutai's Zizhulin is no exception.

Ahead from Zizhulin, the trail forks—one path to Guanyintai, the other to Lingyingtai. We chose to go to Lingyingtai first. After the trip, I feel it's better to go to Guanyintai first. Among the five terraces, Sheshentai is inaccessible; Guanyintai has the highest vantage point; Lingyingtai has the best architecture. The Yuanguangsi on Guanyintai is the most dilapidated among the temples, but its height provides a superb overview of the other terraces. So the recommended walking route is: Huolongdong → Heihudian → Zizhulin → Sitiantiamen → Guanyintai → Wenshutai → Qingliangtai → Nanshanbulaosong → Lingyingtai → Lamashi → Huolongdong. This way, you start by climbing to Guanyintai for a high vantage view, then gradually make your way to the best spot, Lingyingtai—like a drama building from a quiet start to a climax.

On the way to Lingyingtai is Lamashi (Lama Stone), said to resemble a lama. Whether it does or not is up to your imagination.

Lingyingtai is at 1,668 meters altitude, crowned by the resplendent Lingyingdian (Miraculous Response Hall). I came to Nanwutai around 1983 for a Youth League activity and recall only bare peaks then. So Lingyingdian must have been built later—possibly around 1993, based on online clues. Its design is superb, adding a celestial palace-like splendor to Nanwutai. From the mountain foot road you can see the solitary peak of Lingyingtai towering like a heavenly pillar, a heavenly palace. Not climbing Lingyingtai is a major regret when visiting Nanwutai.

According to the scenic area's development plan, a 5,000-meter-long aerial cableway will be built from Guanyintai, passing Sheshentai, to Cuihua Mountain's Tianchi (Heavenly Pool), connecting the Nanwutai and Cuihua Mountain scenic areas. Looking forward to that!

The Lingyingdian hall perched on the solitary peak boasts a glittering golden roof, piercing the clouds. On a sunny day, the golden roof shines brightly under the sun, illuminating the sky; when there's a sea of clouds, the hall is veiled, with its golden roof like a golden boat floating amidst the clouds, giving a dreamlike feeling as if one could ascend to the celestial realm at any moment.

Looking from Wenshutai towards Lingyingtai, the stone pavilion in the foreground is Qingliangtai's pavilion.

Looking from Qingliangtai towards Lingyingtai.

Looking from Guanyintai towards Lingyingtai, the golden-roofed temple in front is Wenshuyuan on Wenshutai.

In the image, to the left of the golden-roofed temple on Wenshutai, a bit of the pavilion roof on Qingliangtai can be seen.

In front of Lingyingtai stretches the vast Qinchuan Plain. On a clear morning, looking down upon Chang'an, you can see the scene described by Tang poet Bai Juyi in his poem "Viewing Chang'an from Guanyintai": "A thousand homes like a Go board, twelve streets like vegetable furrows. In the distance, the faint torches of officials heading to court; a string of stars west of the five gates." The "torches" refer to the lanterns carried by officials for predawn court; "a string of stars" describes the line of lanterns like a constellation. The five gates are those of the Danfeng Gate of the Daming Palace in Chang'an. So the scene is: city layout like a chessboard, streets like garden beds, officials with lanterns processing to court, a trail of lights to Danfeng Gate.

From Lingyingtai, looking out at Qingliangtai, Wenshutai, and Guanyintai, lined up from bottom to top.

Beside Lingyingtai is Sheshentai, still undeveloped and off-limits. From Lingyingtai you can see the collapsed stone walls on its summit, indicating there were once temples there.

Bulaosong (the Old Evergreen Pine) is located below Lingyingtai, over 30 meters high with a trunk girth over 4 meters, its crown like a canopy, honored as the "Old Pine of the Southern Mountain." Its main trunk divides into three branches, which further split into nine limbs, truly a nine-headed pine. The line from "Shijing" (Classic of Poetry) "May your life be as enduring as the southern mountain, unshakable and unfailing; may you be as luxuriant as the pine and cypress…" gives rise to the phrase "Shoubi Nanshan Bulaosong" (May your life be as long as the Southern Mountain's ancient pine). In the Shijing, which Southern Mountain is referenced? The poem "Xiaoya • Baiju" says: "Secluded is the southern mountain, as luxuriant as bamboo and pine." The Southern Song Confucian scholar Zhu Xi annotated that Southern Mountain refers to the Zhongnanshan. The early Qing geographer Gu Zuyu confirmed this. The Zhongnanshan gained fame for recluses, but to strategists it was always a strategic pass. North of the Zhongnanshan (the Qinling) lies the fertile Guanzhong Plain; the Zhou, Qin, and Han empires had their capitals there. In Han texts, "Nanshan" meant the Zhongnanshan. The phrase "as enduring as the Southern Mountain" in the Shijing is the origin of "Shoubi Nanshan," and "as luxuriant as the pine" gave rise to "Bulaosong."

Qingliangtai lies northeast of Guanyintai, between Wenshutai and Lingyingtai. It once housed a temple dedicated to Manjusri. The legendary image of Manjusri was: topknot with five knots, holding a sword, seated on a lotus throne, riding a lion—the lion symbolizing wisdom, eloquence, sharpness, and power. The original temple no longer exists. Today, only a stone pavilion stands on Qingliangtai, in front of which is a statue of Yue Fei, for reasons unclear—no explanatory signs were seen.

Wenshutai, with Wenshuyuan on top. Manjusri (Wenshu) is one of the Four Great Bodhisattvas in Chinese Buddhism, and his bodhimanda is Mount Wutai in Shanxi. Together with Samantabhadra (Puxian), he is an attendant to Sakyamuni. Manjusri is foremost in wisdom and eloquence, leader of all bodhisattvas, called "Great Wisdom Manjusri." As the embodiment of wisdom, he is a must-visit for students before and after the college entrance exams. To welcome students who have just completed the Gaokao, the scenic area has set up a "prediction gate" and other installations on Wenshutai.

Guanyintai, also called Dading (Big Peak), is one of the higher peaks in the middle Zhongnanshan at 1,688 meters. Its name comes from the story of Guanyin subduing the fire dragon. Believers built Guanyinsi to venerate Avalokitesvara, later named Yuanguangsi. For some reason, Yuanguangsi is currently the most dilapidated temple on Nanwutai.

Descending from Guanyintai by a different path, you pass Sitiantiamen (Four Heavenly Gates). Sitiantiamen is a single-hall temple built on an artificial stone platform. To reach it, climb stone steps to its gate, behind which is a tunnel-like passage leading directly to the "Buddha's Radiance Universal Illumination Hall." The couplet on its gate is peculiar, containing four stacked "wood" characters and four stacked "stone" characters—rare and hard to decipher. The character for double stone "砳" is pronounced "lei" (fourth tone), an onomatopoeia for the sound of stones hitting. Based on the poem line "Mu lin sen sen nanhai an, shi lei lei lei Putuo shan" (Trees forests groves, southern shore; stones rock piles, Mount Putuo), the four-wood character may be read as "sen," and the four-stone character as "lei." The couplet seems a playful word game.

The scenic area is well developed—clean, safe, and visitor-friendly, with restrooms easily found and background music of ancient tunes and light melodies.

There are many gentle and cute cats around the site; they like to laze on paths, by guardrails, or sleeping. The broadcast reminds visitors to be kind to them.

Overnight accommodation is available on the mountain. Guanyintai has rooms priced around 200–400 yuan. Lingyingtai also has accommodation, including a unique glass room (photo below shows the Lingyingtai glass room; you can call the number on the sign).

Throughout the scenic area, poems about Nanwutai by ancient writers are displayed, turning a scenic tour into a cultural study of poetry.