Passionate Desert, Vast Grassland, and Galloping Horsemen Await Your Visit
I have always had a wish: to visit Inner Mongolia, Hainan, Xinjiang, and Tibet at least once in my lifetime. First on the list is to experience the vast desert grassland scenery described in the poem "The sky is blue and the grass is vast; when the wind blows, the grass bends low to reveal the cattle and sheep" on the Chilechuan Plain. This time, thanks to my child, I joined the school's research summer camp and finally fulfilled this long-awaited dream.
Day 1 – Saishang Old Street + Islamic Style Street + Fuzhong East Alley
In the morning, we departed from Shanghai and arrived at Hohhot Baita Airport at noon. In the afternoon, we had free time and leisurely explored part of Hohhot on foot. Upon arriving in Hohhot, our guide highly recommended visiting Saishang Old Street, Islamic Style Street, and Fuzhong East Alley.
Saishang Old Street is located near Dazhao Temple on Danan Street in Hohhot. It is an ancient street with Ming and Qing architectural styles. On the west side of Dazhao Temple, there is a cross street with a memorial archway, called Saishang Old Street. Actually, the street isn't really old; it has been renovated to highlight the city's historical and cultural charm.
My personal impression: Comparing Saishang Old Street to the ancient towns south of the Yangtze River, I feel that this old street doesn't have as many colorful snacks as those towns; instead, it features more cultural relics, calligraphy, paintings, agate, and jade. It doesn't have the vermilion doors, pillars, pavilions, terraces, or railings typical of Jiangnan towns, but it does have intricately carved beams and painted rafters that exude a royal aura. It is not as compact and cramped as most Jiangnan towns but rather more grand and open.
On the street, various traditional craft performances and many people dressed in Hanfu and Mongolian costumes made me feel as if I had traveled through time.
Islamic Style Street is located in Hohhot, stretching about 1,150 meters. This area has a dense population and thriving commerce. Due to centuries of strong religious cultural accumulation, it has formed a rich religious atmosphere. Islamic Style Street is adjacent to the Hui District, with a mosque and a food street filled with the aroma of grilled beef and mutton.
Fuzhong East Alley is about 500–600 meters long and has some snacks, but personally, I found it just so-so.
However, I noticed an interesting thing: I wandered around the streets all afternoon but rarely saw any house numbers! The next day, I asked the guide, and she joked, "For the people on horseback, we think this area is mine, and that area is also mine." (O(∩_∩)O haha...)
Day 2 – Kangbashi District, Ordos
After a three-hour drive, we arrived at the desert oasis city—Ordos. In the Kangbashi District, we saw the Wulanmulun Lake, an artificial lake covering about 3.8 square kilometers with land in both sides, built at great expense. There was even a luxury cruise ship on the lake. How extravagant the local government is! (#^.^#)
When mentioning the emerging city of Ordos Kang, known as the "Little Hong Kong Beyond the Great Wall," what comes to your mind? Cashmere is probably the first thing for 60–70% of friends. In recent years, as more and more young people have checked in for its tourism resources, its "ghost city" legend (few vehicles and pedestrians on the roads), its abundant coal, natural gas, and rare earth mineral resources, its legend that everyone drives a Land Rover to farm or work as a sanitation worker, its numerous unfinished buildings, its boundless Kubuqi Desert and Mu Us Sandland, and its largest and free Aobao (sacred mound) have become increasingly known to travel enthusiasts. Kangbashi District boasts an excellent geographical location and comfortable natural environment. We saw all kinds of strange and novel buildings.
Ordos Museum
Ordos Library
Streets without heavy traffic or bustling crowds
Trident-shaped water droplet lights
Bronze statue groups
In the afternoon, we visited the cenotaph of Genghis Khan, who once shook Eurasia and left his name in history. This is the mausoleum that the Darkhad people have guarded for 700 years. The Mausoleum of Genghis Khan (tomb area) is located near Yijinhuoluo Town, about 50 kilometers from Ordos city center.
Main gate of the Mausoleum of Genghis Khan
The ancient Mongols had a tradition of secret burials. Legend has it that when Genghis Khan was buried, to maintain secrecy, tens of thousands of war horses were used to trample the burial site flat, and a single tree was used as a tombstone. To make it easier to find the grave later, a mother camel was brought to the burial site, and her calf was killed in front of her, with its blood spilled on the grave. After the grass sprouted the following spring, the burial site looked no different from anywhere else. Thereafter, when descendants offered sacrifices to Genghis Khan, they would lead the mother camel. When she arrived at the burial site, she would wail in grief for her slain calf. The mourners would then perform a grand ceremony at the spot. But after the mother camel died, no one could ever find Genghis Khan's burial site again.
Genghis Khan statue
Three main halls of the Mausoleum of Genghis Khan
Entering the main hall, the first thing we saw was a white marble seated statue of Genghis Khan. Behind him was a map of the Eurasian territories of over 30 million square kilometers conquered by his four sons. From there, we followed the guide to view the murals depicting Temüjin's magnificent life, learning about the glorious military achievements and imperial ambitions of this spiritual ancestor of the Mongols.
13 Aobaos of the Mausoleum of Genghis Khan
Through the guide's explanation, we gained a deeper understanding of the growth and success of the "Son of Heaven" and his legendary life. He was not merely "only skilled at shooting eagles with a bow." This trip made me strongly feel the pride, admiration, worship, and blessings that the Mongolian people have for this iron cavalry general who swept across Eurasia and created a brilliant history.
Day 3 – Xiangshawan Desert Scenic Area
"Travelers in the yellow sand desert are confused, looking around at the clouds and sky lowering straight down." The Xiangshawan Desert Scenic Area unfolded before our eyes—a desert, yellow sand, swirling dust, and a rendezvous of unfettered imagination.
Today, we experienced the unique climate changes here. In the morning, while looking at the drizzling rain outside the window on the way, the guide sensed our worry. She said, "Rest assured. Although the rain is quite heavy today, the desert weather usually clears up by noon."
Indeed, when we arrived at the central square, the rain stopped. The clouds slowly turned from gray to white, and the azure sky gradually revealed itself.
At noon, the sun was blazing. The fine sand was warm and hot to the touch. We ran, jumped, rolled, lay flat, or lay prone—enjoying the desert in various postures, striking different poses to take beautiful photos as eternal memories.
"You are the wind, I am the sand, lingering and entwining to the end of the world." When a gust of wind blew, no matter how well we protected ourselves (unless we were wrapped up like a rice dumpling), a fine layer of sand would accumulate on our heads, clothes, and hands. The dunes rose and fell in waves, and a winding camel caravan accompanied by the sound of camel bells. People sat between two humps, swaying with the camel's steps, creating a rhythmic motion. At this moment, in this scene, how could we not sing a song like "Camel Bells" by Dao Lang?
Watching a traditional noble wedding ceremony gave us a close-up understanding of Mongolian aristocratic weddings.
The blue sky, white clouds, and yellow desert together formed a fantastic mirage.
Sand sliding is a must-try experience in the desert. The long sand slope, tilted at 70–80°, looked truly nerve-wracking. The staff told me to lean back as much as possible, keep both legs together and tucked in front of the sled, and insert my hands into the sand behind me as a brake. Then, after preparing to scream, I could grit my teeth and rush down without hesitation. Watching everyone's panicked and astonished faces—some still in shock while laughing at others' awkward expressions—was especially amusing.
Day 4 – Xilamuren Grassland
Hearing that we were going to Xilamuren Grassland today, ah! I was so excited that I couldn't sleep last night, tossing and turning. Xilamuren Grassland is located 100 kilometers north of Hohhot, at an altitude of 1,700 meters. It features rolling hills, lush green grass, fresh air, and a typical grassland landscape. The temperature difference between day and night is large, and even in midsummer nights, it feels cool like autumn. We could ride horses through nature reserves, swamps, Aobao mountains, the Xilamuren River, and herders' homes, experiencing the joy of horseback riding on the grassland. The vast grassland could wash away the fatigue of city life. o(*￣︶￣*)o Grassland, horseback riding, equestrian performances, roast whole lamb, and yurts—all were about to rush at us irresistibly.
On the way, the guide joked about how to distinguish goats from sheep: one has a perm, the other has big waves. The difference between male and female sheep is in the tail: the male says "Come on, baby!" and the female replies "No, no, no!" (The male's tail swings back and forth, while the female's tail sways left and right.)
The fusion of blue sky, white clouds, and green grassland creates our infinite beautiful imagination of this magnificent prairie!
The sky was a pure blue, without any impurities. From the light blue at the horizon to the deep sapphire blue overhead, it was all so captivating.
Under the heavens, one feels the insignificance of humans, so trivial. Between heaven and earth, only this vast grassland seems to remain, and even people gradually blend into it.
With the help of the horse wrangler, our group mounted horses one by one. I vaguely remembered the guide saying: grip the handle with your right hand, hold the reins with your left hand; pull left to turn left, pull right to turn right; pull both reins together to stop; kick the horse's belly to make it run.
It was my first time riding a horse on uneven grassland, and my heart was full of excitement and curiosity. When the horse team came to a downhill slope, the horse wrangler rushed to the front and told everyone to pull the reins tight, lean back, and press down on the stirrups.
Finally, we arrived. When I dismounted safely, my heart was still pounding. What a thrilling and fulfilling experience! Here, I must remind the beauty-loving ladies: zip up your clothes properly, and fasten your shawls or scarves; otherwise, the horses behind might get spooked. This time, someone actually fell off a horse, but fortunately, it wasn't too serious!
We also watched a professional equestrian performance at Honggor Aobao—"Legend of the Desert South." The whole show was thrilling. Seeing the superb horsemanship of the actors from Mongolia, with horses responding to commands instantly, we could imagine how much sweat they had put into training.
In the evening, we stayed in a high-standard yurt on the grassland—a completely new experience for us. Before entering the yurt, there was a solemn wine-offering ceremony. I forgot the guide's instruction to flick a few drops with my right finger. The moment I smelled the mare's milk wine (I think it was?), I couldn't wait to tilt my head back and down it in one go. O(∩_∩)O haha~
The blue sky and white clouds on the yurt's dome complemented the white clouds under the azure sky. Our location (Gulieyan Yurt area) roughly had about 80–90 yurts, neatly arranged under the blue sky on the green grass.
We also participated in a grand and splendid grassland bonfire and fireworks party. It was a day full of fulfillment and joy, thrilling yet endlessly memorable.
Grassland fireworks party
Here, let me add: for people used to living in cities, yurts still have a very, very, very large room for improvement!
Day 5 – Dazhao Temple + General's Office
To see the sunrise, I got up early at five o'clock and fixed a spot on the open grassland. At that time, the first rays of dawn appeared like a shy maiden, faintly visible.
Gradually, a red glow appeared in the east, growing larger and redder until the entire horizon was dyed a bright red.
Then, the sun slowly rose from the grassland horizon in the distance, like a dazzling agate moving upward. Around the red sun, the morning glow was completely diffused, and the lightly drifting clouds seemed like beautiful girls in red, dancing gracefully.
After about half an hour, the sun finally broke free from Mother Earth's embrace and leaped into the sky. Ah! What a spectacle, what a beauty!
When visiting Hohhot, you must go to Dazhao Temple, which is near Saishang Old Street. Dazhao Temple, located in the southern part of Hohhot's old city, was built under the leadership of Altan Khan, the leader of the Mongolian Tumed tribe, in 1580 (the eighth year of the Wanli reign of the Ming Dynasty). The temple belongs to the Gelug sect of Tibetan Buddhism (Yellow Hat sect of Lamaism) and is one of the earliest Lamaist temples built in Hohhot. Its Chinese name is "Wuliang Temple," and in Mongolian, it is called "Ih Juu," meaning "Great Temple."
During the Qing Dynasty, Dazhao Temple was honored as the "Imperial Temple." Because Emperor Shunzhi once stayed here, and Emperor Kangxi also resided here for a few days, a gold plaque inscribed with "Long Live the Emperor" was cast and placed before the silver Buddha statue in the main hall (now the hall is very dark, and visitors may not see the plaque). To show respect to the emperor, the temple later abolished the reincarnation system for living Buddhas, becoming one of the few temples in the Mongolian region without a living Buddha, and the main hall was also replaced with yellow glazed tiles.
When visiting Dazhao Temple, you must see the "Three Wonders": the silver Buddha, the dragon carvings, and the murals. Inside the main hall of the temple, you can see a statue of Sakyamuni cast from 30,000 taels of pure silver.
The General's Office was the office of the Suiyuan General during the Qing Dynasty, who governed Guihua City, southern Mongolian regions, and commanded troops stationed in Datong, Xuanhua, and other places. It was built in the style of a first-rank frontier official's yamen, using brick and wood construction. Its construction was a product of the Qing Dynasty's efforts to consolidate the stability of the northwestern border and exercise political and military control over the Mongolian regions north and south of the Gobi Desert.
With the General's Office as the main structure and the "Suiyuan Approach" Memorial Hall as a supplement, this urban cultural relic complex, primarily in Qing architectural style, recreates the grandeur of the "First Mansion South of the Desert."
Day 6 – Wang Zhaojun Museum + Inner Mongolia Museum
Since our summer camp was research-oriented, it was necessary to visit sites with historical and cultural significance. In Inner Mongolia, you must visit the Wang Zhaojun Museum and the Inner Mongolia Museum.
The museum is located about 9 kilometers south of Hohhot city center. It consists of a tomb core, the Xiongnu Culture Museum, the Chanyu's Grand Tent, the Harmony Palace, a memorial hall, and other parts. Wang Zhaojun, whose given name was Qiang and style name Zhaojun, was from Zigui of Nanjun in the Western Han Dynasty (now Xingshan County, Hubei Province). In 37 BC, Wang Zhaojun was selected into the imperial harem as a waiting lady for Emperor Yuan of Han. In 33 BC, under the situation where both the Han and Xiongnu peoples urgently desired peace, Wang Zhaojun voluntarily requested to marry the Xiongnu chanyu and became his wife, which promoted nearly half a century of peaceful coexistence between the two groups.
After Wang Zhaojun arrived among the Xiongnu, she was called Ninghu Yanzhi (consort bringing peace). (In 265 AD, Sima Yan ascended the throne, established the Western Jin, and posthumously honored his grandfather Sima Zhao as Emperor Wen. To avoid the taboo of Sima Zhao's name, Wang Zhaojun was renamed Wang Mingjun, historically known as Mingfei.)
Wang Zhaojun served three chanyus during her time with the Xiongnu. She brought advanced Han farming and weaving techniques to the Xiongnu. At a young age, she understood the greater cause, made great sacrifices, and left her homeland for the distant borderlands, making significant contributions to long-term peace there.
In Chinese history, Wang Zhaojun is a great woman who devoted herself to the friendly cause of the Chinese nation. Among the common people, Zhaojun is an embodiment of beauty. For thousands of years, her legends and stories have been widely circulated and known to every household. Since the Tang and Song dynasties, countless poems, lyrics, paintings, and operas have been written by literati praising Zhaojun and expressing emotions, forming the enduring "Zhaojun Culture." Countless scholars and poets have written numerous poems about her. The great Tang poet Du Fu once wrote: "Among the myriad mountains and valleys leading to Jingmen is where the Bright Consort grew up. Once she left the crimson palace for the northern desert, only a green mound remains in the twilight. The portraits revealed her springtime face, but her soul returns on moonlit nights with empty jade pendants. For a thousand years, the pipa speaks a foreign tongue, and clearly her resentment is told in the tune."
In front of Zhaojun's tomb, I could almost hear her plaintive lament. The Wang Zhaojun Museum has three themes: Zhaojun's Boudoir, Zhaojun Leaving the Frontier, and the Xiongnu and the Central Plains.
Inner Mongolia Museum
Due to time constraints, we didn't have time to visit in detail. I only remember the rough categories: The second floor has four basic exhibitions—"Ancient World," "Majestic Plateau," "Underground Treasures," and "Divine Spaceship"—introducing the birthplace of grassland culture.
The third floor has four basic exhibitions—"Grassland Heroes," "Grassland Pride," "Grassland Customs," and "Grassland Flames"—presenting the vertical development of grassland culture from ancient to modern times through a string-of-beads approach.
The fourth floor has six thematic exhibitions—"Grassland Sunrise," "Wind and Cloud Riders," "Grassland Costumes," "Melodies of the Vault," "Grassland Splendor," and "Ancient Road Treasures"—showcasing grassland culture through highlighted focal points.
As for the rest, we had to give up exploring due to the hurried schedule! The desert, solitary smoke, oasis, sand sea, mare's milk wine, and Nadam Fair—there is always something for you. Come on! Saying it a thousand times is not as good as walking it once yourself!
1. Since this was a research summer camp, the cost per person was not low! After all, we can't let the kids suffer, haha. O(∩_∩)O haha~
2. The "Hello Bike" in Hohhot is stricter than in Shanghai: after riding, you must first click "Park," then scan with the app to verify whether you parked properly before returning the bike. Why can't this be promoted everywhere to solve the chaos of shared bikes often appearing by rivers, in streams, in grass, on flower beds, etc.?
3. Shared electric scooters are more commonly used than bicycles in Hohhot. Drivers in Hohhot are more impatient than those in Shanghai—frequent illegal overtaking and horn honking are everywhere. Hopefully, this will improve soon.
4. The cities in Inner Mongolia are not much worse than first-tier cities; the key word is "big": big grasslands, big deserts, big squares, big roads, o(*￣︶￣*)o. The happiness index of the people here must be higher than in first-tier cities.
