2025 National Day: Revisiting Inner Mongolia
October 1: K194 Yinchuan → Wuhai West
October 2: K2662 Wuhai → Bayannur
October 4: K7928 Bayannur → Wulashan West
October 4: K194 Wulashan West → Baotou
If that Inner Mongolia trip years ago was relatively casual, this National Day itinerary was once again a patchwork of odds and ends.
I had bought a Shanghai–Yinchuan flight for late September a long time ago, simply because it was cheap—the cancellation fee was negligible too, and fuel surcharges were low at the time. Around late August, the airline informed me of a schedule change; I logged into their app and found I could rebook for free to a September 30 flight, giving me a solid National Day backup plan.
Since I hadn’t bought a return ticket, I spent September looking at many options. I considered going from Yinchuan to Xinjiang, but the itinerary was too rushed and the budget a bit high. Later, I eyed the Yinchuan–Xichang route, wanting to tick Xichang off my list, but timing and logistics weren’t convenient. In the end, I focused on the Yinchuan–Inner Mongolia loop, slotting in Wuhai and Bayannur. Initially I planned to fly back from Hohhot or Yinchuan, but after watching fares for a while I missed the low prices. Luckily, a special offer appeared for a Baotou–Shanghai flight, a perfect return leg. Yinchuan – Wuhai – Bayannur – Urad Front Banner – Baotou: the plan only gelled just before departure. Hotels were booked during a Friday afternoon Jinjiang Hotel app sale right before the holiday: Yinchuan, Wuhai, Bayannur, and Hohhot. I have to say, even with app discounts, holiday hotel prices were still steep, especially that night in Wuhai—even at almost half price, it cost 350 yuan; and when I saw the non-sale price was over 500, I could only grit my teeth and book. Off-peak, that same hotel is under 200 yuan.
After the earlier free rebook to September 30, I had an afternoon flight around 3 p.m. On the morning of departure, another notice arrived: my flight was delayed to 5 p.m. due to weather. I reckoned I’d likely score some delay compensation again, though the cheap ticket made the payout a bit of a dilemma.
I arrived at the airport in the afternoon. It wasn’t too crowded, though news reports said roads to the airport were already jammed at 5 or 6 a.m.—exaggerated, really.
After check-in and security, I still had some time, so I used up my Longteng lounge passes. Many vouchers I’d earned through Jinjiang points had already expired, and now I finally used the last few, instantly making the trip feel worthwhile. The lounge was packed; we had to share a table just to squeeze in. We grabbed some noodles and snacks, then hurried to the gate. While lining up to board, a staff member suddenly asked if we’d dropped an ID card. Checking, I realized a family member had dropped theirs on a luggage cart, and the staff had picked it up and brought it all the way to the gate. That kind gesture saved us from a huge headache. Though, truth be told, it wasn’t the first time this family member lost a document on a trip…
The flight to Yinchuan was quite long. On board I read most of Tan Kai’s A Small Station in Siberia, then dozed off for a while. By the time we landed it was already 8:30 p.m. Yinchuan Airport has a direct urban rail link to Yinchuan Station, but the nearest departure was almost an hour away. Since there were three of us, we opted for a taxi. Our hotel was a 7 Days Inn near the train station (7 Days Premium Hotel Yinchuan High-speed Railway Station), booked during the Friday sale for under 150 yuan—great value. When we got out of the taxi, we noticed a lamb offal shop next to the hotel still open. We went in and ordered a bowl. Without checking, I ordered one with flat noodles; we finished the offal quickly. The owner later told us locals usually eat it with noodles too; pure offal without noodles is rarely eaten and costs considerably more—around 50 or 60 yuan a serving. While eating, I discovered my kid had no problem with the lamb liver, even ate several pieces, shattering my assumption he was a picky eater.
The hotel had no breakfast, but at that holiday price, you can’t complain. The next morning we found a breakfast place across the street and ate our fill. On the kerb we spotted shared e-bikes; since the train station wasn’t far, we scanned the codes (though I forgot to buy a nationwide riding card and ended up having to buy cards in subsequent places too) and pedalled leisurely along. I saw quite a few e-bike riders, but very few wearing helmets. Yinchuan Train Station boasts a huge front square—seems a tradition for Chinese stations. Now you only go through security to enter the waiting hall; only when boarding do you need to scan your ID at the gate (though later in Baotou it was different—having to scan IDs just to enter the waiting hall was a real hassle).
The train to Wuhai was in high demand; we only got tickets through the waitlist, to Wuhai West, not Wuhai, though it’s the same train heading to Wuhai, so we planned to buy the extra section on board. It was a green classic train, very crowded, with many standing passengers. A family with a child got on and sat nearby; their kid struck up a conversation with mine, and the two of them had a blast playing with toys. The train reached Wuhai West in an hour and a half, but we continued to Wuhai, which took another 40-plus minutes. At Wuhai station we’d intended to buy the supplementary ticket, but no staff were on duty. I explained to the security person at the exit; she checked our tickets and just waved us through. On the train it was too packed to find the conductor to buy the ticket; at the exit, supplementary tickets supposedly carry a 50% penalty, but given the tiny fare difference between Wuhai West and Wuhai, it wouldn’t have cost much anyway. Later I thought, actually I could have bought a Wuhai West–Wuhai ticket on the 12306 app and saved the hassle.
The taxi from Wuhai station to our hotel (Chaoman Hotel Wuhai Wanda Plaza) was quick. The room was really nice, making up somewhat for the high price. After checking in, we scanned codes for shared e-bikes and headed towards Wuhai Lake Scenic Area. However, our rental bikes had a restricted range that stopped us from riding all the way to the lake; we had to park and walk the rest. (I later learned there’s a local shared e-bike that can ride freely to the area.) Wuhai Lake was quite vast, with a promenade along the shore and many visitors. Lots of people were feeding seagulls by the water, but I didn’t see the much-hyped scene of water on one side and desert on the other. Locals told me the area where the lake meets the desert has been fenced off as a paid attraction and is no longer freely accessible. We strolled along the lakeshore; the wind was actually strong, and though it wasn’t late, it already felt chilly. We walked all the way to the car park at the far end, then headed off for dinner.
First we taxied back to the hotel to freshen up, then set off for “Herdsman Boss Lamb Skewers (Wanda Branch)” I’d spotted on Amap. We crossed a footbridge over a night market street buzzing with snacks and barbecues. I couldn’t resist buying a few grilled gluten skewers, but perhaps because of too much seasoning, the taste wasn’t great.
At Herdsman Boss, the dining environment was surprisingly pleasant. Seeing the previous per-capita reviews of 50–60 yuan had made me a little wary. We started with a few kinds of meat skewers, and wow, they were delicious—lamb, beef, pork, all done beautifully. We kept ordering more; if I hadn’t kept the budget in check, we’d probably have blown past 200 yuan.
After washing up back at the hotel, it was already very late. I thought of using the self-service laundry, but when I went down, someone else was using it, so I had to wait. Next time, I should use shared facilities earlier right after check-in to avoid peak times. The north is dry: if you wring clothes well and hang them on hangers, they can dry overnight. Our room included breakfast. The next morning, the dining room was fairly busy, with a good variety—even lamb offal, though I found it a bit heavy in the morning, so I stuck to congee and milk. Whenever a hotel offers breakfast, I try to eat my fill so I can delay lunch or make do with a snack if needed.
After breakfast we packed up and checked out. Probably because of National Day, the front desk gave us a little fabric mugwort hammer as a gift—a nice surprise. We quickly decided to first see the Genghis Khan statue, then visit Wuhai Lake again before catching our train. The Genghis Khan statue is built into an entire mountainside, a newly developed landmark visible from much of the city. The taxi ride to Gander Mountain took only ten minutes. The driver explained the monumental statue was created for tourism, part of Wuhai’s shift away from resource depletion. He added that the hills here are rocky and don’t hold water, so they used to be barren. Over the years, persistent planting of grass and trees, irrigated with Yellow River water, has achieved the current vegetation. Indeed, along the way I saw plenty of shrubs and grasses—the ecology has improved a lot. Running alongside the Yellow River, we soon reached the scenic area. Below the mountain is a large square, like a viewing platform, overlooking the river. To get up close to the Genghis Khan statue on the mountain, you have to buy a cable car ticket; we just looked around from below and didn’t go up. Heading back to Wuhai Lake, since the distance was considerable, we had the driver keep the meter running—still a bargain compared to big cities.
Our return to Wuhai Lake was to figure out how to reach the spot where lake meets desert. After searching, we found the access points: you could take a boat or a bus. The official round-trip bus was eighty or ninety yuan, but I heard you still had to walk a fair bit after arriving, and there were various extra consumption items inside. Considering we had a train to catch, I held back the impulse to tick that box. The area around Wuhai Lake is underdeveloped. Such a great lake resource hasn’t been properly utilized; just fencing it off to charge entry feels greedy. If they built a ring-shaped sightseeing belt around the lake catering to self-driving and camping, it would be far more attractive. As it is, it’s a bit of a letdown, not living up to the online hype.
The train reached Bayannur in just over an hour. Exiting the station, we found shared e-bikes and rode to our hotel (Lavande Hotel Bayannur Municipal Government Sijihuacheng Branch). Zipping through streets and alleys on an e-bike was quite pleasant, though I regretted not buying a nationwide riding card—I had to purchase separate ones in each city. Also, there were many restricted zones; looking at the map, I couldn’t reach the Yellow River bank, which was a pity. This trip we essentially traced the river, passing through several cities that all live by its banks.
At the hotel, check-in was smooth, and the room was nice—plus the day’s price was several times our earlier promotional rate. On the map we looked for dinner and chose “Little Oil Jar Braised Noodles (Shengli North Road No.1)”. I ordered pork rib braised noodles; the ribs were a bit sparse, and the noodles were too plentiful—I couldn’t finish. The price was okay: one braised noodles, two portions of old-style yogurt, and a cold dish for under 90 yuan. The cold dish was wonderfully dressed; I almost ordered another. Evening was chilly, so after eating we didn’t wander further—mainly because we still hadn’t figured out the next day’s plan.
Back at the hotel, I agonized over whether to rent a car for a self-drive. A taxi driver had mentioned the grasslands and border port were relatively close, just a two- or three-hour drive. Checking the map, it was indeed only a bit over 200 km to the port. Not renting would mean staying in town, maybe visiting People’s Park or the Yellow River—also fine. Renting, I checked several apps: around 300 yuan a day, plus fuel would push it close to 500, which seemed a lot, though split three ways it was okay. I also found a bus to the port, but it departed from an out-of-the-way bus station, only twice daily, and tickets for three would total over 100 yuan one way, so round-trip 300, with less flexible timing. All things considered, renting offered better value. But I had to think about insurance to avoid being scammed, and driving fatigue—mustn’t be too tiring or risk an accident. Local rental shop or an app? Even at breakfast the next day I was still waffling. I called a few local rental shops shown on the map to check availability and prices, then finally booked through a rental app, picking up a Volkswagen SUV (T-Cross) at the train station. Just one day: I planned to drive to the port, passing through grasslands where there’s a “Saiwai Tara Grassland Resort”, then take a different route back via “Wengen Tara Grassland Resort” to Ulansuhai Lake, and return the car at Bayannur station—that way I avoided a one-way drop fee, though the driving distance would be high. That was the plan, but execution would depend on actual conditions.
Because of all the dithering, it was already 11 a.m. by the time we picked up the car. We navigated straight to the port; the estimated three hours seemed manageable. Outside the city, traffic thinned out, but we hit a snag—I hadn’t done a thorough check at pickup, and after driving a bit I noticed a stone chip on the windscreen. I quickly contacted customer service to report it; they said it was fine, but I wanted to reduce any future dispute risk. Once on the G242, the landscape on both sides soon turned into desolate pastoral zone. Since there hadn’t been much rain recently and autumn had arrived, the grasslands were mostly dry and yellow. Herds of horses and sheep grazed lazily, fenced off from the road by wire to stop animals straying onto the highway. We frequently encountered heavy trucks, likely hauling goods to the border port. The G242 runs from downtown Bayannur north all the way to the Ganqimaodu Port, so after a stretch of grassland, the terrain transitioned to desert gobi. The scenery was genuinely beautiful—rolling hills against the grassland and gobi, very cinematic. The only annoyance was the wire fences along the road to keep livestock out, preventing us from stopping anytime to admire the view up close. Only a few access tracks into the pastoral area allowed you to enter and experience it firsthand. Honestly, setting up some viewing platforms at scenic spots along the road for self-drivers to stop and enjoy would be a great improvement.
When we passed a checkpoint, the staff told us we’d already missed Saiwai Tara, so we’d have to consider it on the way back. We arrived at the port close to 3 p.m. and found it still pretty basic, with no tourism development, no duty-free mall, not even a border gate or marker in sight. The port is basically a town; the roads were wide but empty of people and cars. We passed a new square, probably built for tourism. We ate at “Port Harbin Dumpling King”; with no big appetite, I ordered dumplings and a cold dish. Prices were clearly marked, portions generous, and fair. Some other self-drive tourists trickled in for meals, and they too seemed to find the place a bit dull.
Heading back, time constraints meant we dropped the Wengen Tara and Ulansuhai Lake route. We returned the same way to see Saiwai Tara. On the road, I finally figured out the car’s cruise control, which made driving much easier and reduced the risk of speeding. At Saiwai Tara, it turned out to be a large Mongolian yurt complex built for tourists—dozens, maybe a hundred yurts of varying luxury. Peeking through windows, some even had mahjong tables; in a central square stood a big iron stove for bonfire parties. It must be bustling in summer. Outside there were a few recreational installations: swings, hammocks, an archery range, go-karts, a horse ranch. But now there were hardly any visitors; just a few cars, like ours, stopping to look around.
On the drive back, I needed to book a hotel. Originally I’d planned to stay in Urad Front Banner, but with the plan changed, we were heading back to Bayannur, so I had to book there. During holidays, last-minute hotel prices can be eye-watering. Luckily, I found the Bayun Hotel in nearby Hanggin Rear Banner for under 100 yuan—a real bargain! I remember that on an 18-year trip to Bayannur, coming from Baotou, I also stayed at a Bayun Hotel, though I don’t recall which branch. Bayun Hotel is the official hotel of the Bayannur Transport Group, conveniently located next to bus stations. Being official, its prices don’t surge during holidays—very honest—and the facilities are decent, reminiscent of old-style guesthouses. However, the drive to Hanggin Rear Banner really put me on edge. It was a provincial road or similar, no street lights, and the heavy truck traffic was intense. These trucks, all with blinding high beams, made it nearly impossible to see. Occasionally there were pedestrians or non-motorized vehicles on the sides. Although it was only a dozen kilometers, it felt worse than hundreds; if you slowed down, cars behind honked furiously or overtook dangerously. I was on tenterhooks the whole time, regretting not just going straight to downtown Bayannur. Every time an oncoming vehicle’s high beams blinded me, I slowed right down to react to anything in the black zone.
Once inside the urban area of Hanggin Rear Banner, things were much better. I called the hotel, and they told me to park right in the bus station lot—very convenient. After check-in and dropping our bags, we went out for dinner at “Iron Hat Grilled Meat (Saisheng West Street Branch)”. The place was lively; staff even helped with the grilling. The bill came to 195 yuan, which surprised me—I’d expected just over 100. The boss didn’t print a receipt; he tallied again on a calculator, and I didn’t scrutinize too closely. When you’re travelling, you let small things slide; a discrepancy of a few dozen yuan might be a miscalculation or an overlooked item. Next time in such a situation, it’s better to order via a mobile app or request a paper receipt for clarity, to avoid disputes.
Next morning after checkout, we had breakfast at a nearby eatery: congee, vegetable buns, tea eggs, and I ordered a meat-stuffed flatbread. When it arrived, it was different from Yinchuan’s version—the meat inside was in chunky pieces, not the usual finely chopped braised meat, more like what I’d had in Yulin before. I chose lean meat only; the flatbread was absolutely crammed with meat. One look and I felt full; I’d underestimated the portion and regretted it a bit, so I wrapped it up for later when I had more room.
We drove the car back to Bayannur station, taking forty or fifty minutes. We were nearly an hour late returning it. The staff just gave a brief inspection and let it go, saying the system would automatically waive the small excess fee on the invoice. Overall, the rental experience was quite good. I’d thought of visiting People’s Park with the spare time, but it was already close to our train’s departure—another time, maybe.
Inside the station, our train was already boarding, the timing was tight. In these small-city stations without high-speed rail, boarding is announced about half an hour early. Passengers trickle through the gates and amble to the platform unhurriedly. Once the high-speed line opens, the rhythm will surely change. The station washrooms were spotlessly clean, bright and odourless, sure to earn praise from any visitor. Good infrastructure indeed makes a difference, though maintenance costs aren’t low; without cheap labour, it probably couldn’t be sustained.
The train journey to Wulashan West took just over an hour. I’d checked earlier that this station is in Urad Front Banner, close to Ulansuhai Lake. Disembarking passengers poured out into a lively scrum of private cars, taxis, and e-bikes. But within moments, the once-packed station forecourt emptied, returning to stillness until the next train.
Since we had a 5 p.m. train to Baotou to catch a flight, time was tight. Not daring to negotiate with taxi drivers, I opened the Didi app opposite the station to call a ride to the scenic area. Even on National Day, in this small town few people use Didi; we waited with no driver responding. I was about to give up when a Honda Odyssey accepted. The driver called to say because it was a long trip and he’d likely return empty, he needed an extra 10 yuan return surcharge. Fair enough, and I agreed. The business-class vehicle was a treat—practically a private charter! The drive to the scenic area offered lovely views; the lushness seemed better than Wuhai, probably thanks to Ulansuhai Lake, much larger than Wuhai Lake, moderating the local climate. The roadside vegetation was diverse: shrubs, bushes, trees in layers. Low hills dotted the landscape, along with dried-up riverbeds from summer floods, the soil looking loess-like or sandy and somewhat barren, but plenty of plants thrived.
The road to the scenic area was well-built. I recall when I came years ago, the bus bumped along a rough track to the lakeside village. The driver said all the changes began after a state leader inspected the area. At the entrance car park, I noticed a bus stop sign and learned there’s a long-distance bus passing by, but with long intervals and travel times, suitable only for visitors with plenty of time. Knowing how tricky it was to get a taxi here, I asked the driver for his number and arranged for him to pick us up later. The scenic area pushes many bundled tickets: entrance, shuttle bus, and various boat options. I’d already read online complaints about the entrance being deliberately set far away to sell shuttle tickets, plus a bird museum near the pier bundled in. We took the shuttle to the pier and waited for our boat. Seeing Ulansuhai Lake in person again was different. Back then, the area was undeveloped; when I walked to the embankment, the water had receded far into the distance. Now the lake was broad, stretching to the horizon—likely replenished with much Yellow River water to sustain the ecology. Afternoon sunlight sparkled on the surface, with pleasure boats and speedboats criss-crossing, while dense reeds grew along the shore. Gulls soared, chasing the feed-tossing boats. I don’t know why, but we ended up waiting quite a while for our inexpensive economy boat, a slow cruiser that traversed the lake.
Soon after leaving the pier, we were out in the middle. Gazing through the window at the vast expanse, I suddenly thought: what if the boat capsized or sank? I grabbed the life jacket beside me, ready to ditch my backpack if the worst happened. Many passengers rushed to the stern to feed gulls that chased the boat, swooping for snacks. My leftover meat-stuffed flatbread from the morning found a second life, fed to the gulls by my child. The lake scenery was a bit monotonous though—too broad, the shore too distant, leaving little to see beyond endless water and the occasional boat. A central island or some on-water activities would have helped; otherwise it’s just lake-gazing and gull-feeding. Sea fishing, net casting, or fish trap demonstrations would engage visitors more and add visual interest, better than the ubiquitous gull feeding. Our boat looped around the lake centre then headed back; some felt the trip was too short, but that was about it.
Back at the pier, I checked the time and felt the pinch, so I called the driver who had brought us to pick us up again—this gave us a comfortable cushion. Before the shuttle bus, my kid spotted an archery stand and wanted to try. By chance he actually hit a bullseye; the stall owner even gave him a five-yuan reward—earning money through his own skill!
The shuttle bus didn’t go directly to the car park; it stopped at the entrance of a tourist shopping centre, forcing us to walk through to reach the parking lot. Classic trap. Since our driver was already waiting, we didn’t linger in the shops but just walked straight through. In half an hour we were at the train station. With a little time to spare, we crossed the road to buy some fried noodles and a cold dish for the train.
Originally, we’d planned to return from Hohhot because fares were cheaper. But I kept waiting, thinking there might be a better option, since Hohhot was a bit further. Just two days before the return trip, a Baotou–Shanghai special appeared—a perfect ending. By then, Hohhot prices had started climbing and I’d been considering Yulin or even Yinchuan again. Now everything fell into place: Baotou is just over an hour by direct train from Urad Front Banner, much closer than Hohhot. Also, the flight time was earlier, giving us a comfortable connection without stress. And one more thing: that trip to Bayannur years ago, I also flew back from Baotou—a neat little circle closing. Back then, I’d taken a bus then walked to Baotou airport; running late, I had to wave down a car on the airport expressway, a truly embarrassing moment. A taxi driver saw me, stopped to ask what was wrong, consulted his passenger, and gave me a free ride right to the terminal. I was so rushed I barely had time to thank him properly. I’ve held a soft spot for Baotou ever since.
By the time the train reached Baotou station, night had fallen. My kid and his mum went to buy a hamburger; I sat on a stone bollard in front of the station waiting. A young couple passing by, probably tourists, asked me to take a photo of them with the “Baotou Station” sign in the background—a classic photo op. As I stood to hail a ride, I spotted a Yonghe Doujiang across the street. Feeling a sudden craving, I dashed over to order some soy milk, then hurried back to book a taxi to the airport. Actually, Baotou East station is much closer to the airport, but many trains from Urad Front Banner terminate at Baotou. When the high-speed line opens, there’ll probably be more services to the East station.
The drive to the airport was smooth, no jams. Check-in, security, and boarding didn’t take long. Once seated on the plane, I finally relaxed completely—that sense of relief when all arrangements fall into place. Another long journey accomplished.
Journal Index:
1. A Patchwork Itinerary Finally Takes Shape
2. First Encounter with Yinchuan
3. Wuhai, Not as Good as Imagined
4. Bayannur: Wandering the Grasslands on a Self-Drive
5. Wulashan West Station and Ulansuhai Revisited
6. Baotou, the Fated Final Stop
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