Paying Homage to the Mausoleum of Genghis Khan

I had long wanted to pay homage to this great ancestor. In August 1999, exactly 772 years after the Great Khan's death, I, this unworthy descendant, finally made the journey.

The car set off from Baotou, heading south along National Highway 210, crossed the Yellow River Bridge, and entered a semi-desertified hilly region. Thanks to long-term protection by local people, vegetation cover reached about 50%. The area was mainly shrubland of caragana and tamarisk, along with herbs unique to the Loess Plateau such as Artemisia sphaerocephala. Desert plants like Mongolian wild onion and garlic were also everywhere. The sky over the Inner Mongolian Plateau was always so azure, with high clouds and a vast openness—phenomena usually seen only in autumn were visible year-round here. National Highway 210 was wide and had very few cars. I heard that a highway now connects directly to Xi'an, eventually passing through Chongqing to Nanning in Guangxi. When I went, there was only the national road. In less than two hours, I saw the long-awaited mausoleum of Genghis Khan.

The mausoleum consists of three huge Mongolian yurt-style buildings. In the main hall of the Mausoleum of Genghis Khan stands the statue of the universally renowned Genghis Khan, the proud son of Heaven of past and present. On both sides of the statue are displayed precious artifacts from the Genghis Khan era. In the rear hall, three yurt-style caskets hold the coffins of Genghis Khan, his wives, and his younger brother. In the eastern hall, the casket enshrines the coffins of Genghis Khan's fourth son, Tolui, and his wife, Iši (the parents of Kublai Khan, founder of the Yuan Dynasty). In the western hall are displayed the military emblem of Genghis Khan, the Sulde, and the gilt silver saddles from his period. On the interior walls of all halls and corridors are murals depicting Genghis Khan's lifetime achievements, as well as the social conditions, religious beliefs, and customs of the Mongolian people at that time. On the platform east of the mausoleum grounds are exhibited relics from Genghis Khan's era—a huge two-wheeled wooden cart, cast iron cauldrons, and iron battle-axles. To the left front of the main yurt stands high the Sulde, symbol of the Khan's supreme authority! It somewhat resembles the red-tasseled spears used by the Young Heroes, but the tassels are black, very thick and dense, so a weak person could hardly lift it. The mausoleum architecture is simple and not grand, far from the image I had of this great ancestor, and even more incomparable to his magnificent achievements. As I pondered, I heard the rosy-cheeked Mongolian tour guide explain in halting Mandarin: The mausoleum was actually built in the early years of the People's Republic. This humble ancestral tomb was constructed under the direction of Ulanhu, an outstanding descendant of Genghis Khan and the first Communist Party member from the Mongolian grasslands. According to Mongolian burial traditions, after interment, to prevent grave robbing, the tomb mound is covered and then trampled flat by horses. After one rain, grass grows and birds sing, making the exact location indistinguishable. Today's mausoleum stands at the legendary site. The Mausoleum of Genghis Khan is located on the Gande Li Ao Bao hill in the Ejin Horo Banner, southern Ordos Plateau. In 1219 and 1226, Genghis Khan led two western campaigns. When he passed this area with his troops, he was deeply attracted by its beautiful scenery, composing a poem on horseback in praise, and chose it as his burial place. According to Mongolian historical records, in August 1227, during a campaign against the Western Xia, Genghis Khan fell from his horse and died. It was midsummer, making long-distance transport unlikely; the Helan Mountains are within 200 kilometers straight-line distance from the present mausoleum. Transporting his body here for burial aligns with the circumstances. Since then, the place has been called "Ejin Horo," meaning "Lord's Mausoleum." The brave, warm, and fierce Ordos Darkhat people have guarded their hero for generations.

The Darkhat people living around the mausoleum all consider themselves descendants of the mausoleum's guardians, and since the Yuan Dynasty they received special government funds, which continued through the Ming and Qing dynasties. Today's Darkhat people farm or conduct business on the mausoleum's edge, raising offspring. With their commercial acumen, they created the world-warming Ordos cashmere sweaters, and gave rise to desertification hero Wang Minghai. I will introduce Wang Minghai and his Engebei in a later installment of "My Idols Series." Here, the Darkhat people we intimately encountered entertained us with a whole lamb feast, treating every visitor who came to pay respects to their ancestor with reverence. In their eyes, Genghis Khan is not only a hero in their hearts, but also a hero of the Chinese nation, and a hero admired by the whole world!